retiredff

I have one, thanks.

well, using an airbrush (AB) requires cleaning after using. Since my first post I have upgraded my AB. I dumped the VEDA, it wouldn't spray anything without spitting, and I tore it apart and thoroughly cleaned it, still no luck. So after watching ebay and reading alot of posts on AB forums I bought an Iwata eclipse side feed and a badger Spirit, also a side feed. What a huge difference especially when doing fine detail! I still use the Master AB but mainly for finishes, it does fine for that with a .5 needle. The Badger is a .3 and the Iwata is .3 also. Both spray dyes and thinned acrylics great. I did have an issue with Angelus silver metallic and switched to a createx pearl acrylic, when I have time to test it I'll post info here.The pearl's are suppose to be ground finer, hopefully they will work. The main thing I have learned from using an AB is it takes practice, practice and more practice. When spraying dyes vs a dauber, I can control the lighter color darkness much better than with a dauber, and painting flower leaves etc takes practice but can be done. I have found that when spraying dyes, to clean the leather with alcohol before spraying also helps the dye (fiebings alcohol based) absorb more evenly.

I have several of their templates and they work fine. What problems did you encounter?

If that is what you usually use it should work fine. The drill press keeps the holes perfectly straight.

I have the same issue with thick leather, so I use a stitching wheel to mark the holes then put the awl blade in my drill press with a fence. The blade is set at about a 45 deg. angle, this works great for me.

Thanks Tom.

how much weight? And if it's as large as the leather will that slow the drying? Thanks for another option - Tony

As I was reading I thought of making the leather larger than needed then use staples to hold it flat until it dries. I'm drawing up some clock faces and other info I may put on it (the entire piece won't be carved/stamped), I then have to buy a piece of cheap leather to practice a few of these before using some good leather. After I do a few of these I should have an idea how the leather will act after tooling and I can adjust as needed. Thanks Bob - Tony

Thanks Bob. I thought that is how I did it last time but it was on a small wallet sized piece. This will be 12"x14" or larger. Tony

Bob - after applying the tape on a large piece (it could be 12"x14" or so) do you case with a sponge or spray? I wouldn't think dipping it the tape or shelf liner will hold. Tony

It makes perfect sense Bob.I remembered doing this as a test awhile ago on a small piece of leather and found the roll of shelf paper I used. Thanks for the help. Tony

Thanks Bob for the reply. So you are saying to glue it to a board, then case and stamp/tool the leather? My design so far is to glue it to the clock back anyway after tooling/stamping.

I am in the design stage of a clock I want to make. It will be in a shadow box and the leather will fill the inside completely and will be carved/stamped. To date I have mainly practiced carving, experimenting with the different stamp designs, basketweave etc. I have not yet tooled on a good piece of leather, I usually buy scrap, cheap belt strips or anything 'on sale' at SLC. So my question is; what weight of veg tan would be a good choice for the clock face/ interior of the box? It will be tooled/stamped and probably have multiple colors of dye/acrylic paint. My guess would be 6/7. I have noticed while practicing some of the 3/4 and 5/6 will curl when tooled, will a heavier weight not do this? Thanks Tony

Try and find a used yoga mat. Cut it to size...

I thought about that, and picture frames or shadow boxes. Just looking for ideas. Thanks

I have a few ideas for a clock, but I don't have woodworking tools to make a body or frame for a clock. Anyone have ideas where to buy these? Thanks Tony

UPDATE#2: I received the lot I bought. The tool #'s were correct except for 1. The tool he had listed as 812 was actually 312 that is a RARE sunburst stamp. The stamp listed as 104 I had so I compared them side by side and stamped. One of them was slightly smaller but the impression was the same (just smaller). I didn't see any reason to keep both so one of them will be sold. Tony Everyone have a nice XMAS and a Happy New Year!

EDIT on above post, it won't let me edit again. By breaking even, I mean if a lot cost me $2.50 per tool w/shipping included, the ones I don't want if I can sell them for the $2.50 I'm happy. I have bought some where my cost was $1.70, if I can get $2-3 I will but like I said in my last post, I have some marked down to $2 each and still no offers.

Art, Just scored a 'LOT' last evening on evil bay. There were 18 pre-'63 tools and they cost me $3.20 each, shipping included. That is alot less than I can buy any tool anywhere. The tool numbers were: 103-3 103 103 1/2 104 204 207 349 422 RARE 431 444 RARE (NOT D444) I think it's a starburst or camo 451 524 RARE? 6 point star I think 701 705 812 816 851 877 RARE 7 of the 18 I already have and will sell off any duplicates and hopefully break even. I won't know for sure the number of duplicates until I get the tools and verify the numbers the seller posted. I have some pre-63 on ebay now and the response even at $2-3 each has been poor, maybe because XMAS is close? Tony

I understand all of the responses on this subject, however, for the beginner or even advanced hobbyist I can't do $25 per BK tool vs a pre-'63 craftool on ebay that are in 20+ lots I can buy for $2-3 each. These pre'63 tools might need to have some rust removed, but for practical and financial purposes, they work fine and have put out countless leather pieces since they were made. If you have a production shop where these tools are tax deductible that might be a reason to upgrade or if your ideas there are no tools available and a custom tool is required. With my limited experience I think practice, practice and more practice and some GOOD leather makes more difference that a $25 BK basketweave stamp. Most people that are buying a tooled custom belt have no idea if the tools you used are '63 or BK's newest. I've always leaned toward being cheap, OK, I squeak when I walk I'm so tight, but the collection I have of mostly pre-'63 (Craftool Co. no letter prefix) and Craftool Co. USA (with letter prefix) and I have had no issues with the tools! Some of the lots I bought there were the newer Craftool USA/Craftool that look off color to me and I have compared say a pre-'63 #400 veiner with a NEW V400 and there is a difference in the impression. I have read the pre-'63 tools no 2 are alike because they were hand made, not stamped. I'm at the point now I don't buy lots of the old tools anymore because I end up with over half or more in duplicates and have to resell them, not for profit, just break even, and sometimes that is difficult. Just my $0.02 Tony

I found them, thanks Howie.

I found out this: 444 is a sunburst or a camouflage and rare. 524 is a 6 point star 877 is a rope stamp and rare.