retiredff

So you dyed it first then antiqued it? I you did, I had not thought of that and will try for a belt I'm making. BTW, good work, looks great!

Grey Drakkon - I won't be using dyes, I'll use acrylic paints either Angelus or Com-Arts. The Com-Arts are airbrush ready if using a .3 or larger tip and they have a camo set that has 10 colors. For detail and a .2 or smaller tip the paint will have to be reduced. The Angelus will have to be reduced 2:1 (reducer:paint) or more depending on your airbrush/needle size and PSI. A cheap $25 brush is OK for dyes but a PITA for acrylic paints and detail work. Don't ask how I know...

same here, looks good to me.

I have a deer rifle I want to camo. I thought of buying or making a few stencils, then use an airbrush to apply the various colors. The synthetic stock is black so I assume I need some browns, reds, green and maybe yellows. Then seal with something like Liquitex Varnish Matte. That will be a winter project.

I saw the same video awhile back. I have no idea what people did w/o youtube or web sites like leatherworker.net.

CrazedLemming - I put my finishes, paints (Angelus) and dyes (Fiebings) in a bottle that have been thinned. I use my wifes old hose stockings to filter it into a dropper bottle, coffee filters in a small funnel may work also.

You probably need to thin it with water if acrylic, it should say on the bottle or ask where you bought it. Find the specs on your harbor freight airbrush, f the needle is .2 anything you spray will need thinned, .3 less thinning and a .5 for dyes probably not, but finishes like tan note and bicks will need thinned. I thin dyes 1:1 because I can control the color better. If the airbrush is spitting, skipping or not spraying at all it could be the media is too thick. If it has been thinned then raise the psi. A top feed (gravity) requires less pressure and a bottom feed requires more pressure. Alot of airbrushing is practice and testing then remembering what works with what. Practice spraying dyes on scrap (maybe light brown), when dry spray black along the edges for a sunburst. With very little practice that is quite easy. Tony

what Tina said and use an airbrush if you have one or try and borrow one. I found it easier to control colors with the airbrush.

I think a resist or block is suppose to do that. The areas you resist will not take on the color of the antique but it will get in the low areas (in tooling) to give it a 3D effect.

I had the same issue when dying saddle tan or any light color when using a swab. I started using an airbrush and it's much easier to control the color depth and I think I use much less dye.

Thanks for the link, I bought 2 5oz.

Thanks Tom will do. The pens I bought are the 127 HS-CO, I couldn't find the 127 EF. If these work out the next thing I buy will be empty cartridges. I don't know where u bought yours but the best price I found was here: http://artprimo.com/catalog/markers-molotow-markers-c-28_37.html They are in Washington State

I found someone who handles them. They carry the tip and refills. I wonder if I can use any acrylic paint instead of theirs? I ordered them with 2mm tips and ordered 1mm and 1.5mm tips to experiment with the sizes. They were only $2.99 for 2 in a pack. Thanks again Tom EDIT: I emailed the company in Germany. We can use any acrylic paint we want to refill the pens. I didn't ask about other paint types.

TomG - I found the company Molotow paint markers. What size tip did u use on the letters?

TomG, You solved the problem with the firefighter emblem, the depressions are large, that's why the antique won't work. As for the sharpie pens, I found out the hard way. Do u have a link for the Molotow paint markers? I found some on Amazon but it doesn't say they are refillable. Those should work for me. The sharpies work when they worked, the tips stopped flowing quickly. Thanks for the info The pics you posted look good to me, just what I'm looking for. Tony

howie - The letters are painted, then resisted. I want the antique to stay in the letter recesses along the edges around the letters. It does work, sort of. On the letters I use sheep skin to wipe off the antique, on the firefighter emblem, I have tried the sheep skin, paper towels, paper towel wrapped around a 2x2 block, I tried a popcicle stick to try and scrape it off. That works sort of but when I use anything to clean it up, the antique is pulled from the recesses. Should I let it dry longer? I may have a custom stencil made and just airbrush it. That way I can be more flexible and add flames, maybe a skull in the center. And I don't have to use tooling leather, I should be able to paint on any type of leather. My issue with that is I have never airbrushed like that...

I wondered that also but Angelus paints were designed to paint tennis shoes. From the reviews I have read it holds up well.

Club - I use a Master G22 and I have a Veda WD-180 airbrush (AB), both were <$40 and both spray dye, acrylic finishers/resists just fine. When I spray dye or the resist (pro-clear) I cut them 50/50 or 1:1. The master brush came with 3 needles, a .2, .3 and a .5. I use the .5 to spray the dyes and resist/finish and the veda for detailed stuff with acrylic paints (Angelus and createx). I'm just beginning to learn spraying with acrylics so I'm not alot of help there. I would save my $$$ until u are sure a high dollar brush is what you need. I also invested in a California Air tools quiet compressor. I had a 5 gal tank that I AB with but that grew into a PITA going to the garage to refill it especially in the winter and It's quiet enough to use in the house. I bought the 4610A. http://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-oil-free-air-compressors/1-0-hp-air-compressors/ Tony

I'm having a problem with antiquing on letter stamps and FireFighter maltese cross stamp. The cross is a standard 1 1/4" stamp, the letters are 3/4" and 1/2". The leather is 3oz, I stained it saddle tan then airbrushed (AB) 2 coats of pro-clear. Then I applied with a wool piece fiebings antique black very heavy on the letters and the cross, I let it sit for 2 minutes or so. When I remove the excess with wool, paper towel or a flat scraper it pulls the paste out of the letter and cross depressions. WHY? I have watched numerous youtube video's and I do it exactly the same way. Is the letter not heavy enough? Should I let it sit longer? Or will this not work on stamps just tooling? Thanks Tony

They look really good, the stitching especially. Keep us posted on how you like them.

OK, when will the other sizes/colors be available? The other sizes I might use are .6 and 1mm. Tony

Matt, I received your sample card, I like the thread but what sizes are/will be available? I think you sent .8mm... Tony

I use a drill press, works great. I bought an auxiliary drill press table with a fence, helps alot.