rdb

"Hey Mom! Where's the Beav?" HB'day

It's just a skill you will develop. Either you have shakey hands or you don't. Some people can use daubers, others use a piece of square cut felt held in a clothespin. Your mileage will vary. Keep practicing. Learn to squeeze the right amount off before applying. Be advised not to use this on edges that will rub off on things like clothes. It will leave a black mark. I believe it was developed for shoes and such, not for belts (Go ahead ask me how I know...lol). For belts and things you may have better success with edge ink, dry and burnish, then if you want to, rub beeswax over the edge, and burnish. There are other methods, which if people join in here, might be a good discussion. I know Esantoro has been doing some "scientific" tests, but the old timers like saddlers will all have their preferred method..hopefully they will all share.

I'll leave any criticism to others, I just like it. It's a cool lookin fish. Real good first attempt.

This is where I get mine. Everything you could possibly want... http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/

You will have more versatility with the 70 watt station, better would be 80 watts. The higher wattage allows you to solder more variety of things. As an example, we make small stained glass, and fused glass things here. Not that you will, but you could. The temp control regulates down nicely for other applications.

First rule of custom work..."Do what the customer asks". Don't complicate it, overthink it, or try to compensate. Make one as per the customer, let him try it out, use it for awhile. Tell him what you think will happen (you can do this before you make it, but they wont believe you), then let him come back and tell you if that's what he was wanting, or...make the changes you suggest. You can't use this approach with larger projects, but for a simple sheath with the potential for multiple orders, it's worth trying.

Just the logo piece itself is a ton of work, never mind the wrapping of the box...real nice job Pete!

Thanx Windy, I'll try that.... Stelmackr, that's a neat set! that took a little time, no doubt...

Glad you liked it Pete, thanx. Yep, I know that tool, but my 6 drills already have something attached to them...lol. Nowadays, I want to make the three steps to the setup tool that's ready to do the certain thing, straight, true, and repetitive...Not saying that's the way it is in my shop, just that's the way I want it...lol

You have the State sales tax license, and the Federal Income No. More than likely , all you need is the state lic. All they want you to do is file your quarterlies. Pay the state tax on your sales. If no sales, just write 0. Not a very expensive cost here. Some states, maybe cheap ($25), others might be more. For the money you will save on leather and tool purchases, it's worth more than you pay. For the feds, If you actually make an income, all you have to is fill out their forms, and report it.

WAY COOL!

I read the manual 2Mad, but I have not had the simple success you have. For the record, I have never tried #69 thread, but with lighter than 207, I have not been able to use it on the leathers I have, without adjustments beyond the simple tension change you suggest. Too much pressure foot, too little. Too much bobbin tension, etc. I'm not saying it can't be done in a pinch, but for me it's too much rigermarole in my day. Maybe Artisan Dave can suggest a course of action. They haven't been wrong yet when asked.

I bought the 3000 knowing that a heavy duty machine would probably not be ideal for lighter leather. I believe the 3000 goes down to 138 thread, which is still heavy for some leatherwork like wallets ( in the style of manufactured ones). I have used thread lighter than 207, and it worked fine. My problem was the changes necessaary to do this. First, there is a bobbin tension spring adjustment. Then a pressure foot, and walking foot adjustment. Then a tension spring. And finally a needle. None of these are too difficult, but if you are looking for perfection, several adjustments, and tests are necessary. THEN, you have to readjust back to your regular work. All, of which, are time consuming. I get by on anything from 207 and heavier with little or no adjustments. Lighter leathers and threads definitely need the changes. There is no magic solution to various leather stitching, It's one thing as a hobbyist to be willing to do all the changes for a few projects. It's another to have to get work done for a business. If you make a variety of product, using the right tool for job (as my motto says) requires you to be able to switch between product assembly without fuss. In other words two or more machines, set up for specific purposes is the solution. I am very happy with my 3000, and am seriously considering breaking down for a second machine to do the lighter work. I too, am interested in other's opinions to this. I have a Singer 30-15 that I intend to put a servo on, but even then, I don't believe it would give me the universallity of a good compound feed, just another option. I believe Jordan has a Neels, and of course, Art will have the most definitive response.

Once again, beautiful job, Tom. You are famous out there, so you must be doing something right...lol. I usually spot your stuff on boing boing.

You are a lucky one, Elegant! And so is everyone else this time around! Everyone has outdone themselves with beautiful gifts. Imagine the poor "civilians" out there missing out on all this good stuff.

If You use one of the firefox extensions, like suggested...they will be saved onto your hard drive as files with the extension .flv. In order to play them on your dvd, you will have to have a software that will convert from .flv to something that will play on your dvd. Modern dvd players can play .mp3, mp4, mpg, etc., or you can convert to divx. VLC media is free, and can convert, but there's a lot of software out there that is free, and will do a bit better conversion job.

Vinegaroon bath would be my best suggestion...after TESTING.

I'm old. I get to put my two cents in, whether or not you want to hear it...lol There seems to be a lot of "Woe is me", and "They all suck" around here. There are some many billions of humans on this planet, and it can be pretty complicated to make things run on an even keel. Everyone has their druthers. You've got the Conspiracy people, the right and lefts, the center, and you can break that down into even more thousands of little tribes. Tough times, and Good times, come and go. If you have some sort of belief you would be able to survive a Mel Gibson post apocalyptic world, forget it. We either work together, or we all hang together ( someone famous said that). Obstruction, doom and gloom, them vs us, has never, and will never accomplish anything but the destruction of those who purport it. It doesn't even make you feel better, you just end up wallowing it, and making everything look worse. Personally, I can only do my little part. Making a belt that lasts a little longer than the time it takes to leave the store, or making any little accessory to put a smile on someone's face. Somehow, I think that adds a positive to the whole mix. When people add positives, instead of negatives, it just seems to make the world a little brighter, and better. It's not delusional...it really does work. Look at any snowstorm up North, and watch people who don't normally get along with each other, and how they help each other get through it. Take this Forum, for another example. We are all learning, sharing, getting along for the most part. I have not seen this kind of positive relationships on ANY board out there. I hope that continues for many, many years. Remember the old adage: "Never talk religion or politics in a bar".

Any of the clear finishes will work. They are sealers in themselves. Lately, I have been applying Snow Proof, letting it dry, then applying Leather Balm for final topping. For black, make sure you use a clean cloth and rub off the residue as much as you can before applying. Perhaps Top Kote, Bag Kote, Neatlac, Super Sheen would be longer lasting than the Leather Balm, for a black belt. The shininess varies with each product. That's up to your choice of final look. Resolene has given problems to people who don't have access to a spray gun. Some would swear by spray vs. wipe applications of finishes and dyes, so that's up to you. Several thin applications with adequate drying between(overnight), are better than one heavy application of any of these. Give the edges a coat also. I'll leave it to others to discuss the chemistry, i.e. acrylic, spirit based, etc., and of which they prefer. There have been several finish Topic conversations here, so do a search. Remember everyone has their favorites and biases, so you'll have to be the final arbitor of what you use, based on YOUR research, decisions, and tests. It really is as easy as Wax on, Wax off.

Wax On! Wax Off! Personally Leather Balm is my favorite. It is simple, and effective My little unauthoritative belt tutorial: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4416

Denster -$60 Luke -$75 if better molded (I think that's what he meant) Trooper - maybe $60 with a better customer base Lobo - $120 Jordan- $75-100 rhall - $85-90 with lining and buckle All over pricing, . Throw out the highs and lows and you get between $75-100 I think Lobo had some real good points, and although his price was the most expensive, it was probably the most correct, in an ideal world. NOW, here's what happened... I went to his rock shop, and showed him. His eyes lit up. Then I told him that I have a problem. He asked "what problem, it looks great?" I said that I sort of went overboard making it, with a lining, and buckle, and using bridle leather, and that he was looking at about $120 worth of gun leather. He was visibly shook, but to his credit, you could tell he was going to man up and pay that amount. Now that I had him in the right frame of mind, I told him how many hours and about the materials. It came to about $70. I said that he could pay the $70 price, since I did not spend the extra time hand molding, IF he never told anyone that he got it for that. He rushed to the cash register to get the money. He said he thought it was worth about $140, and that's what he would tell people. I told him to just say that it varies from $80 to $120. NOW, my reasoning. He has a lot of friends that shoot and hunt, black powder too. Some twenty years ago, these good old boys used to go a saddler here in town for all their leather work. He has passed on, and there are no saddlers or repairers less than an hour and a half away, here now. When I first met him, he thought very highly of the old saddler, and after seeing my stuff, he paid me some high compliments. He said he would spread my name far and wide, because none of his friends even knew there was another leatherworker in their area. So.... That's the story. I sure learned a lot from your input. And I hope others may learn from this real world discussion. I saw some Topics about pricing here, but it seemed to me to be more principals, and small business management type advice. I will of course use that good advice, but maybe a little later in this fledgling "business". My time and material was paid for, and maybe a few dollars extra, so I think of it as a successful transaction. Once again, thanks for your help, and honest input....I treasure that more than the $70.

I always used to like making them, but nowadays, it seems there is not the need. Everyone I know, or have met, use the compound bows, with the arrow attachments on them. Maybe in the Historical reenactment world they use them, I'm not sure. I used to make mine flat, not round, with a loop inside at the top and bottom (like cartridge loops). Each arrow had a slot that kept them from banging each other.

This Forum is amazing. So much shared info...a name, a phone call, and then resolved. I sure hope you plan to post pix of the repair, when you are getting it done. I think that would be very interesting.

Pretty sharp! Nice job painting on the lettering, my old eyes find that a difficult job, so kudos... I've never seen a buckle foldback done like that, but, hey, it does cut out bulk.

Thanx guys, yep...that's the ballpark I was thinking..60-80 dollars... BUT THEN....I started googlin', and came up with average prices being somewhere between $85 (unlined) and $120 (lined), with extremes to $185. The only differences were either basketweaving, or tight molding. I know my people think $60 is extravagant, so who the hell is paying them big bucks, and where do I meet them...lol