Hidemechanic

Mike, I have an opinion, I'd like to hear Art's responce, to just to give you more to weigh in on. I use two mechines, Adler 105-64 and a s Singer 31-29. I found that depending on the different sizes of thread and needles the mechine can use, will determine if you need another mechine depending on the work you want to do. I'd love to have a #9 by the way. I found that most of the stuff I do I can get away with changing thread and needle and do most everything on the 105, for lighter stuff(soft leathers) I'll use the Singer. I'd like to move up to a harness stitcher but that's like saying I'd like different motorcycle, I may not need it but it would be nice to have.GH

JWU, Is that needle bar set at an angle or is it 90* to the table? To check your needle for straitness lay it on a flat surface and roll it, if it wobbles, it's bent(pool que check). Sometimes when you use a thin or lighter weight needle the thread tension can be tight enough to bend the needle as it gets closer to the work just before penatration. Often times when you change needles but more when you change thread sizes you need to do a test run on scrap to check your thread tension( you have different combinations that will effect tension-large hole small thread vise-versa-Large needle with small thread vise-versa) . If you are the handy(mechanically minded) type you will figure this out quickly. Either way you will learn to adjust the top thread tensioner and the bobbin tensioner, so they pull together so as to leave the loop in the middle of your work and also leave a nice looking stitch. Have fun stitchin, GH

Try your local library for books.GH

Darc, I'm glad you said it was for the small of the back. If it was to carry on your side i was gonna say you must have a rubber arm to get that thing out at that angle. Dang nice job Bud. GH

Not exactly sure what this sight looks like but what I have done when I cover the adjustable sight is add a build up in front of the sight edge. Explaination, the piece that forms the 'V' in the rear sight is at the rear of the sight ramp and is higher than the sight ramp. The sight ramp ususally tapers toward the front (maybe your's doesn't, doesn't matter I guess) I fill the space along the sight ramp to level (or just above it)with the top of the rear sight piece. When I shape the holster this leave a relief for the sight so the sight itself isn't being rubbed by the holster and is also protected by the holster. That make sence? Hope so. Yes, I usually cover the rear adj. sight.GH

Maybe someone else here is better at it than I am but it seems a bit diffacult to teach someone from scratch how to build a saddle long distance. Not knowing your abilities and apptitude and such.I think having a more personal relationship to someone makes it a lot easier to mentor. I suggest you do as others have done and are doing here,researching the books and DVDs on saddle making.This will give you a good basis of understanding that will help you better apply what is offered by a mentor. Keep digging, you'll get there. GH

It really depends on what you are tooling. Rather than get into a big pulabery about what I think you might be trying to do, how about you go to the 'tooling stamping 'section, 'floral Sheridan carving', ClayB has done a 'step by step' on tooling that should help you get a better feel for what you are wanting to do. It really helps to get some background basics before doing something because some says do this or that. It's kind of a cart before the horse thing. Your enthusiasm is refreshing, but one needs to learn his ABCs before whe writes his first book. Keep researching, you'll get there. GH

Marlon, let me scan them and send them in a PM to you and see how it works.GH

Do you have any resourses on the how tos, or someont to help walk you through the steps? My first saddle was a slick fork on a tree that my bro.in-law used to cowboy on for the a coulpe ranches east of here.(Origional saddle was made in a small town NE of me) Next was a bowman, I was able to learn to work the leather on those swells without a welt. Later did a low moose where I did a stitched welt. Later did laced welts. I have always enjoyed molding with out welts when I could, always seems a challenge to get a nice cover done smooth and no wrinckles.GH

I can give you timberline info. Watch out for the Google search, there is a Timberline saddle co. that is a commercial saddle co. and not Saddle trees. Randy and Aaron are the bros. that run the shop, quite quite willing to discuss your needs. I have a couple old Superiors and a couple unmarked trees. They stayed in a hot shed too long and warped one beyond help, even the cantle board twisted (wall hanger now) I've been tempted to try a reset on the other just to see it it will square up and hold. Anyone had experience with that I'd like to hear about it. I'd also like Sonny's info, haven't kept up since he left Colorado.GH

Good deal, we lok forward to seeing your work.GH

I thought the valve stem was insurence agaist loss when hitting bumps Jordan, to a degree I agree. I do ride more comfy with a back support( lunch bag behind me) but if I ride two up(which I want to avoid) then the comfy goes away. It's a 82 v45 Magna, and I am either going to go to a shorter traditional style bars or I'm gonna trade the mag for a Saber(back to the traditional position). I still have the stock seat and haven't found a good deal on an after market(Mustang - Corbin) After seeing our seat guys making solos I thought I'd look into going that route. As to seat-peg position I think Honda missed the boat there too, as the early Mags are quite crampt. Like many of us I like trying to do things myself soooo,,,,GH

Mine is the Randy Steffen copy, if anyone wants those plans. It doesn't have spoke legs, instead a wide tapered board in front and rear with sretchers between them. Takes the issue of cutting angles out if you are carpenterially challenged. GH

Hope that Valvoline is non-D, don't that nasty stuff washing the red out of the eyes, Nyuk nyuk. Ya know that's about what they mix in neetsfoot compound, right. Lookin good.. GH

Good styff Luke, you're in the right area for selling Gstraps if you can get $ out of those who aren't starving (starving artist that is).GH

I see there a different color gell pads, is there a dif in the firmness or dencity, or are they different colors because of what they were made with on a give day? GH

The intention was not to pit one tree maker agaist the other but rather get different views and experiences from other saddlemakers as to the differences they see from one tree make to another, or perhaps to class tree makers based on what they offer. Just want to give the newby something to start with and choices as to what to look for.GH

Not sure, but antiquing is kind of waxy so I'm not sure if it would fade your antique. I presume you are talking about vege tan. For some items I use hot stuffed waxy latago which is impregnated with wayes and oils at the tannery. I bet it would be messy to do at home. As for tooling, if that's what you're wanting to do, latago doesn't tool much like non-oiled vege.I've never done a full basket or anything but I have done border stanps and it takes it pretty well. The saddle pics here(sorry for the poor shots and lighting) are of an endurance saddle i build using amost all waxed latago. All borders have that little rose X tool(craftool D616). I think it would be great for bags, cause all you have to do to treat the stuff is rub on some mink oil now and then. GH

Bcurrier, glad you mentioned that about the gell pad. I wondered if it would start choking the boys after awhile. But one application I heard in another thread said to cover the gell with neoprene, that ought to contain the gell without relieving the cush, what do you think? GH

Dave, I figured that's what you meant. I've been using neoprene for some time now on seats and haven't had any complaints. I have used it on my stitch horse and other things I make cusions for (arm rests, baseball mitts ect...) but I think the secret is combining the types of foam. I think you are also right that the foam in my scoot seat is fetigued. Steve, your meathod sounds like the ticket for my seat bones. Funny, if I have the right seat I prefer a non padded saddle seat, and can ride all day. I have talked folks out of padding for saddles because at some point the padding compresses to the point that you are on the same hard leather that is under the padding and will most likely cause more problems because the foam is trying to decompress all the time. That's another story. Where does one find gell foam? Are you using 12/14 oz. or lighter? Thanks for the info guys. GH

For those trying to choose the tree maufacturer based on the type of tree that suites their need. I.E., some mfgs. build trees in high volume for major saddle companies. Some mfgs. build for the individual saddle makers who build a lower number of saddles per year and those for those willing to use a traditional built tree. Some tree makers go beyond the traditional technology using sinthetic materials(nylon v.s. rawhide lace, staples v.s. nails,rawhide v.s. fiberglass v.s. bedliner cover ect...) for different reasons, lightness, economy. strenth, weather resistants,ect... Some tree makers go the extra mile, improving materials (wood type , laminated, ect..) The diffences in these trees relate to cost for the trees. How would you guide someone in choosing the tree maker as it relates to their differnces in need from one saddle maker to an other?

This subject came up in a different thread, and lost in the crash. Thought we should revive it. Where do you get your saddle trees?

Well now, I don't see the extremes of temps as big an issue as the humidity. Still keeping oil in the leather is no doubt like anti-freeze in your engine as well as to some degree a repellant to mildew. As for the PNW, Mulefoot, that's where I am and it is -3* as I speek.Just funnin ya (it is -3* though) My question is, how long an extended life are we talking about? They tell us to drink more water, don't eat red meat(yeh right) and egg yokes, do this and don't do that and we'll live longer. What are we talking about here? A couple days a couple months a couple years? If I feel when I'm 90 like I do now now and it's only gonna get worse, why the heck do I want to live longer? "Shoot me honey, I've had enough!!" As for saddles I know we've all seen saddles that should have been put out of their misery and others that are going strong after 30, 50, 70 yrs or so. Take care of our stuff and it will out last us. If we could last as long as our saddles and still be in as good a shape, I wouldn't mind living longer. I can relate to climbing in that cold saddle seat in the moring and after an hour your core temp has lowered a couple degrees cause arss is still froze. Makes you want to build a little fire in it before you ride, course that might shorten the saddle's longevity a bit, I spoze. Putting all seriousness aside I would suggest for those sub freezing morning to gently work your latago before you cinch it up. Use some friction to soften it up to avoid cracking when making the turns though those cold rings. Happy trails y'all. GH

I've been reading and it's time for me to ask the question of you seat makers. Are those seats for town use or are they comfortable enough for extended crusing? I'm sure there are some guys who can go with either, what is your experience? My stock seat bites my arss about 20-30 min into a ride and I've tried rebiulding it but no luck. What foam do you use?(Might be my prob) Who makes the seat pans? Is that something a guy can do at home? If so, how do you go about shaping the pan so you know it will be comfy when it's covered? I know. Don't tell me. I need an arss transplant, I get that from my OL already. And yes I'm speeking figuretivly when I say "LMAO", cause it was gone a long time ago. Nyuk,nyuk, nyuk. GH

Good job Luke. I found a guy has to be carefull with altrations on MC gear cause some of the forign leather is of poor quality. When we patch in a piece of quality leather to the low q stuff it tares it apart at some point.(sometimes it will fall apart running it through your mechine) New wine in old wine skins situation. That has nothing to do with your work Luke. Just mention it for others who may get into repairs and alterations of MC leathers. Usually you and the customer is way happier when you replace that cheep belt on the genaric chaps with a real one, they usually feel better too. Been my experience. Cheers, GH