Timbo

It's Maine Threads 4 cord that I use now. How do you keep the white from looking gray after you pull the stitches tight?? Tim

Ok, I have reached the point of doing some hand stitching on my first saddle but I am not happy with any of the thread that I have. I am wanting to know what all the saddle makers on here use for hand stitching and what size cord and where do you get it?? My first preference is for linen but I have no idea how many cords I need to use for my saddle. I use some 4 cord for small stuff but don't feel it is heavy enough for this use. I also don't like my nylon as it looks dirty once you pull it tight. I am basically on hold until I figure out what cord or thread to use........and I really want to get my horn cap stitched up!!! Thanks, Tim

Wow, I'd be glad to make the leather handles all day for half that price!!! But speaking of copper handles.........here are a couple of pics of some copper pulls I made for a desk, that I also made. They are really easy to make, go to the do it yourself store and get the heavies uncoated copper ground wire they have, bring it home and use a vise, vise grips, screwdrivers, pliers or whatever and twist them how you want them. Now throw them in the fireplace, wood stove, bbq grill or whatever until they are read hot. take them out (with pliers, duh!) and beat them flat on an anvil and bend the curve into the handle. Quench them in water or beer or whatever. (quenching adds some cool colors too) I used some copper nails I have to mount them. I just clinched the nails so they wouldn't pull out. Here is the result. They are pretty rustic though. Tim edit: I've also made some with a closed loop at the top that came out cool.......and I have made hooks for a coat rack the same way.

I've stitched some small stuff with it so far but am getting ready to start building my first saddle and I for sure need some nice white thread to make the stitching pop. I hate to get started with it and be disappointed with the results and have to pull them out and redo them. Thanks for all the suggestions I'll give them all a try. Tim

Thanks for sharing this Karl!!! I also have a disc sander that is unused.......but will soon be put to good use. It is hard to tell from the pic but is it flesh side or grain side out?? I wonder if regular sanding disk glue will hold it on there. Hell, I wonder if Barge will hold in on there?? Guess I'll just have to find out. Thanks again!!! Tim

Funny, but I had the exact same thought run thru my head as all the others.....why would you want to make a collar for dog that is soon to be dead?? Anyway, I have had luck making dog collars from veg tan but I do not dye them on the backside. I just leave it natural and dye the front and edges. The finish I have had the most success with it Leather Balm with Atom Wax by Fiebings from TLF. I use it on front and back and edges and it will slick down the edges and back really well and leave a nice sheen to the front. It also locks in the dye pretty well too. I just slick the edges and back with a piece of canvas or denim after I put it on and let it sit for just a little while. The bridle leather would would very well too......but it is kind of expensive and most people have some veg tan laying around. Hope that helps and hope your dog rebounds soon!!! Tim

Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this. I recently got some nice waxed nylon thread for hand stitching, but the problem with it is that when in place and tightened down the white thread is no longer white. It actually looks pretty gray or just off color in general.......but sure not white like my poly is. This is also thru bare leather......no finish or dye whatsoever. Anybody else ever experience this??? Does linen thread to the same??? I have only ever used natural color linen and have no experience with colored linen thread. All help or ideas will be appreciated. Tim

Nice lookin' mule Jim!!! I want to pack with mules someday....all I've ever packed with is horses. I'll have to study up on the mantied loads and your hitches. All I know is panniers, top loads, center loads, tarps and squaw hitches..........and even when I was learning this stuff, in the back of my mind i was saying....."there has to be a better way"...........and it looks like there is. In our defense though, we have to pack some really weird looking bags and luggage into the mountains. A gal brought a bag this summer that could not be lifted by one person alone. Turns out she had at least 2 changes of clothes per day and I saw her wear at least 5 different pairs of shoes. She had enough clothes for 2 months and was only out for 5 days. Shoot, I only bring along another pair of jeans in case I get mine torn or skunked. Granted they will stand up by themselves at the end of the trip but the horses don't mind......and I'm the only one in my tent. Thanks for posting the info and the pic. Tim

Thanks Chris.........Think I've seen those hooks on some websites but guess I never put it together. I like the idea of a decker over a sawbuck. Tim

Don't take all this advice in the wrong context...........please feel free to think outside the box. Please think outside the box and reinvent the wheel if you can. The thing is that in the saddle business a lot of people expect the traditional styles of stamping and carving. Ours is a trade of tradition passed from generation to generation. Boring??? Sometimes..........but if it is exceptionally and meticulously well done, it is obvious. If it was haphazardly done or done in a hurry, that is also obvious and tends to look amateurish. So whatever you choose to do......do it well. There are always new styles waiting to be discovered or invented. But sometimes you think you have come up with something new and find that it has been around for awhile. But ultimately what it comes down to is this........will the customer find it attractive and be willing to buy it?? When you come up with something new, make a sample and show it around and see what people think of it....sort of a straw poll...but be warned relatives will always say it looks great!! Tim

That tree looks really nice. I've never used a Decker before......only sawbucks. How do you attach the panniers to a decker?? On a sawbuck you just throw the loops over the cross to the far side and adjust the strap for hang if you have to. On a Decker do you do the same or different?? Cause it looks like it could slip off a Decker if you did it the same way. It might seem a simple question, but I have honestly never used or even seen a Decker used. Only sawbucks. ....and by the way mulepackin........if you don't mind, throw out a first name for us. Thanks, Tim

Welcome to the board and feel free to post some pics of what you do!!! I'd really like to see one of your pack saddles. Don't know if we have anybody on here that does that, so give us some info on what all you do......and again.........show us some pics!! Tim

There is absolutely nothing wrong with stitching a single thickness for decoration and to keep it from stretching. Get the flesh side all cleaned up and slicked then cut a stitching groove on the back the same as you do on the front....then stitch away. I've done lots of belts this way with heavier leather than the 7-8 oz you are using. And actually I wouldn't have a problem lining the 7-8 oz with up to 4 oz lining leather, but 2-3 oz would be best...........but that's just me. Without an actual splitter it will be very hard to keep it a completely consistent thickness. Just my .02, ymmv. Tim

Slight correction for you Chuck, it's Out West Saddlery. Gonna have to go down there and check them out!!! Tim

From all the old stuff I've looked at, I can't say that I have ever seen one that was plugged. Shoot I think alot of them were even made from lighter hides than we use now. I don't think many of them were blocked either....but some did have pockets sewn onto the skirts. Don't know if that really helps but it is my .02 anyway. Tim

I think somewhere I've heard that Bob Douglas makes really good awl blades. You might want to check him out. Tim

Thanks, Darc. That helps immensely!! Tim

Does anyone use it and if so what ply do you use?? They don't give any other measurements that I can find other than the number of plys. Any help would be appreciated. Tim

I had a client bring his uncles mexican center fire saddle to the ranch for a 5 day pack trip this summer. It was a neat saddle and was very well constructed. We put one of our nice neoprene cinches on it. It was constantly moving around and those cinches usually stay pretty much where you put them. But after a long downhill stretch the cinch and saddle would move forward. Don't know if the saddle was moving pulling the cinch with it or the other way around. But the cinch would always wind up back in its normal position and the saddle would be way up over the shoulders and on the horses neck. It just would not stay where you put it. Like Tosch said, horse shapes have changed over the years and a center fire just doesn't work on most horses. Plus it is a lot of rigging right under your leg that I didn't much care for either. Just thought I'd throw my own story with this rigging into the mix. Tim

I love Rick Beans work. It is very humbling and inspiring as is all the work from TCAA members. Tim

Harbor Freight sells a cool prewashed denim apron for 3.99. It has 3 pockets in it too. One pocket on the chest and 2 side pockets. Being on the side is easier to work with than one low pocket across the front. And if you are worried about the blue rubbing off on the leather just bleach the color out of it. Tim

That is a sweet pack saddle.........who makes it?? I'd like to see more pics of it.

That is also what I use for large pieces and they work really well. Most auto parts stores also carry them. They spray very even and you will be surprised at how little dye you actually use. I cut the feed tube down on mine and stick it right on top of a small bottle of dye. It doesn't screw on perfect but if you tape it on it will not fall off. The dye also comes out very uniform and even compared to daubers and wool scraps. It also takes less time for it to dry and see the light spots you need to hit again, which is really easy to fix since you can feather it in. Down side........after you do this go blow your nose........you'll understand. Tim

It all looks great Bruce!!! How do you attach the leather to the rope can?? Thanks, Tim

ARGH!!! That be lookin mighty sweet matey!! (sorry couldn't resist) Excellent execution of an excellent design!!!! If this is the first can't wait to see the second!!! Good job!!!! Tim