Evo160K

DelNero, My Singer 45K69 treadle machine doesn't have a friction clutch on it. It's my Singer 45K25 that has the Singer friction clutch, although it has a different actuating arm on it than on your clutch. See the clutch pictures above. Also here are some pictures of both machines. Hopefully they'll be useful.

Folker, Looks really good to me. Congratulations. Did I mention about using a thin metal erasing shield and a good quality red eraser to remove the extra glue? Comes off quite easily.

Sombercrow, Yes, the picture does show that problem well... I've never seen that happen on any machine with a wheel. https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A4d780bd4-5e1f-4e55-941e-f19153d604c2#pageNum=4 That's the current owners manual shown on the Tippmann website. Check the section "Threading the machine". As many times as I've looked at the manual I've been using, I never noticed the thread went counterclockwise once around back side of Secondary Tensioner Wheel (D), I've only been sliding it into the discs... that accounts for some difficulties I've had. Regarding the "E" tension wheel, It looks like you know the thread goes once clockwise fully around as that's the way it appears in your picture. Regarding needle/thread sizes, thread that's too small for a given needle will have more difficulty forming a good loop than the correct size thread. Further into the manual you'll find a needle and thread guide.

"What keeps happening is that the thread keeps coming off the second tension knob , and spooling around the post that it's supported on." Are you able to post a picture of this? The machine will definitely sew thinner material when set up correctly. First thing I would do is check the owner's manual to see that the needle hook timing is spot on. I supported a mirror on a board with three screws, so I could see the needle and loop action without standing on my head. This help number for Tippmann may be useful: Need Help? 866-286-8046 Here are some miscellaneous thoughts on the Boss (no particular order) Always make firm and complete strokes up and down with the hand lever. Jerky movements or stopping then starting (particularly when about to enter or when in the material) may cause issues such as missed loops/stitches or double loops. Most importantly, if the machine locks, binds or the hand lever doesn’t want to move up or down for any reason, just stop immediately, no force. Any other action will most likely do damage. Think it through. If the material is locked in place, just cut the threads, clean out the clippings, look for the cause (thread path issue i.e.) and then continue. Double looping is usually caused by the primary tension being too loose. This machine seems sensitive to tension settings, in my opinion. See the separate sheet on adjusting the primary tension wheel and the secondary tension’s affect on it. The primary tension is named that for a reason. It’s usually adjusted twice what the secondary tension is adjusted. i.e. if the primary, knurled, round nut is turned one-half turn, the secondary is turned one-quarter turn. You’ll develop a feel for it. Feel how the top and bottom threads feel now for reference. Before threading the needle, cut the end of the thread on the same bias as the twist of the thread. That’ll leave a small, sharp point on the thread. To get extra top thread, pull it from the needle side of the “F” Guide Post, or hold the hand crank back and pull from the Needle Foot. Lubrication is critical; follow the instructions in the Owner’s Manual. Put a drop of oil in the groove (in the body casting) that the shuttle rides in anytime the groove seems dry to the touch. Makes a huge difference. Use a clear, quality, sewing machine oil like SEW-RITE Precision Machine Oil from Tacony. Check the needle tip for burrs often and check the thread path frequently, particularly before a critical sew until you’re comfortable with the machine. Keep the shuttle area meticulously clean, the tension wheel and the tension discs as well. Adjust the stitch length in increments. I believe it’s best done with the needle out of the material… not sure, didn’t experiment with it. Use your mirror stand and a mirror to see how each stitch is forming, at least until you’re comfortable using the machine. It will give you a heads-up if a problem is developing or a stitch is going bad. (i.e. hook missed the loop, hook picked up a double loop). It’s an excellent tool. If the hook misses the loop, you can often put the needle back into the missed hole and carefully continue. Haven’t had a missed stitch or double loop since the timing was fine-tuned. Machine timing first and thread tension second are critical factors in getting a good stitch. Feel how the top and bottom threads feel now for reference. Refer to your needle-thread chart(s) when changing thread size. As we learned, mismatched needle and thread combinations can cause big issues. When turning a corner, the owner’s manual recommends moving the hand lever fully to the top, lifting the foot and then turning the material. With the timing as good as it is right now, it wouldn’t surprise me if the material can be turned with the needle in the material… once you see the hook has caught the loop. I didn’t try it. When you replace or change a pressure foot, put the screw in to first resistance, then set a firm piece of leather under the foot, loosen the screw, and then tighten the screw. This insures the foot is flat and feeds as best it can.

Kcstott, thanks very much for the part number. Exactly what I was needing.

So the clear grease Tippmann uses on the Boss is Super Lube MULTI-PURPOSE SYNTHETIC GREASE WITH SYNCOLON® (PTFE). I found a 3 oz squeeze tube, p/n 21030, in town yesterday at Grainger. I'm told by people I trust, Super Lube and Tri-Flow make quality, clear greases.

Kcstott, What's the part number on that tube? Thanks very much.

Thanks one and all for your comments. So I was wanting clear grease to minimize the risk of soiling the goods. If Gottaknow uses Tri-Flow, that'll certainly be fine for me. Thanks again all.

A good, quality, clear sewing machine grease should work fine. Any recommendations? Thank you.

Would anyone know what the clear grease is that Tippmann Industries uses on the moving parts behind the front cover? I'd like to find some this weekend. Thank you, thank you very much.

Dikman, that was my first thought, but for some reason being a "trusted Site" didn't work. Does the website's certificate need to be updated?

Managers, for what it's worth: As it turned out, Google Chrome and Internet Explorer both blocked me from Leatherworker.net a number of times today. The pop-up messages (from unidentified sources) mentioned the connection wasn't safe or the website's security certificate was not up to date. My internet provider showed me how to click on the message, which I was not about to do on my own, and get to the website.

TomWisc, this may be useful: http://dixiesewing.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS2/43-1%20-%2043-6.pdf

If you're needing those special Singer taps, you can try Keystone Sewing Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa, (215) 922-6900. I bought the four tap sizes that LW member Shoepatcher suggested, they've taken care of my needs. They didn't have dies at that time. Snakeoil, I sure like your work!

There are several topics in the LW search/link that may give you some information. https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?q=Singer%207-31

You're welcome

Sure looks like your Mom knew what she was doing... great selection/variety of machines (from my limited point of view), and I'll bet she kept them in top shape. What has she advised? Are you able to post a picture of the 45K68 with it's base?

Thornburghleather, In 2018, when I was restoring a newly acquired 45K53, I found it difficult to impossible to find parts, just as Shoepatcher said. I welded and repaired what I could, but had to fabricate a few parts from scratch. That's not too difficult if you have the Singer Illustrated List of Parts for your machine; LW member Jimi once told me the Singer Parts Lists are printed to size (identified on each Plate), so the print can be used to fabricate a part. In case you don't have an illustrated parts list, I've attached the plate for the Simanco 93387 part you've shown above. When you fabricate from a plate, you may find you have to adjust the size of the print from your printer so the print exactly matches the size of an actual sample part you have in hand. In my case, I had to reduce the full size copy I bought by about 1%. to match the actual sample piece. I'm not sure why, but that's the way it worked out.

Jakeyb99, Would you be able to send a few pictures showing the machine, any extras and tell me what you know about the machine? Thank you. I'm in Southern Indiana.

Iron1951, Since you already have an oven, you might take a look at Japanning (the coating used by Singer). https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83226-first-try-at-japanning-on-a-restoration-project-the-conclusion/?tab=comments#comment-561233

Bellflory, My nerves wouldn't handle a puller, so I called in a SM mechanic who made it look simple: first he took out the grub screws and poured penetrating oil or something into the holes and around the shaft. Next, and this is the trick part, he jammed a square wooden stick into the top front of the machine, so the wheel couldn't be turned over. Then he twisted the wheel back and forth while pulling on it... didn't take any time at all and it was off.

Tony, Yes, the film on the back peels off to expose the adhesive, then the decal is pressed on. The protective film on the front peels off to reveal the gold-leaf and edge colors. Since you only need the two pieces, would you want to buy the pair of samples that I have, the ones shown above?

Cferna27, My interest in the classic, old Singers is restoration and preservation, and that would be especially so with a fine old 97-10 if I were fortunate enough to own one. If it were my machine, and it arrived in such condition, I would be sick about it, whether I intended to use the wax box or not. I would expect it to be repaired to near original, or I would expect one to be fabricated to as near original as practical.......even if it meant making a mold and having one cast!! Such a shame! Best of luck with it.

Mazzy, This Singer parts lists shows what was offered by the factory for the 45K89 and the 45K56. Note the pictures are to scale if you're inclined to fabricate some parts, which I did for a couple of my 45K's. http://www.dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS2/45K56,K89.pdf

The following quote by Wizcrafts in the thread "Sewing Machine Reviews", April 1, by kgg, (https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85358-sewing-machine-reviews/), as well as comments from others are pointing out a need that could be met to a large extent in this "Show Your Favorite Machines" thread. Wizcrafts said, "I think that due to the high cost of industrial, especially leather capable industrial sewing machines, that few people can afford to buy competing brands and assess them for nothing more than shits and giggles. Without some form of reward, it makes no sense to invest in competing brands simply to do online reviews. With a reward, there goes impartiality. Brand A might offer a full package of accessories and Applebee's coupons to a reviewer for a better assessment over brand B. Not yet mentioned is the fact that some the dealers selling the top brands discussed here are run by a couple of people and not a large company. These few good men are usually busy assembling and adjusting machines, then getting them shipped, from the time they open until they can finally shut the door and go home. This doesn't leave time for video reviews". If when we posted pictures of our favorite machines, the comments also included what features and capabilities make them our favorites, (as well as those weaknesses we're accepting), it would be a powerful resource. It would not be the most definitive review by any means of a machine, but it would be a starting point with a user's real life experience.