CWR

Thank you on both the compliment on the saddle and the boy. We are sure proud of him. Don't worry the way I have chosen to make my living there is slim chance I will ever have enough money to corrupt me. But I wouldn't change a thing. Thanks again, CW

Thanks Bob. I would probably be a millionare today if I hadn't of taken a liking to horses when I was his age. Thanks Bruce. I cut that saddle out with the knife I got from you. He oughtta be able to rope a bull out of it when he gets a little bigger. JLS. He's definately the most work! But worth it. Particle, He cries if his mom makes him wear anything else besides boots. Thanks all, CW

Ricky and Joel, Thank you so much for the kind words. I see every fingernail mark and crooked stitch in it. JW, I sure appreciate it and the help over the past months. I think you hit square on. After I got them blocked they looked different than when I drew them on paper. Do you think if I took about an inch off the front and then flared the cut up under the fender it would level it out? thanks again, CW

Here's my little boy and his Christmas present from dad. There wasn't any point in waiting til Christmas because he played in the shop floor most of the time I built it. Merry Christmas, CW

I built this saddle for my son. It is a 13 in. Will James from Quality Mfg. with Hermann Oak leather. I would really appreciate some good critiques so the next one will be better. Please take a look at my seat profile and my patterns. I am not real satisfied with my skirt pattern but can't put my finger on what is wrong. The fender length may throw off the overall balance but he is only three feet tall and I let them out all the way for the pictures. Thanks and Merry Christmas, CW

Another good one Steve. Some cowboy is going to have a good Christmas. How far from the edge do you lace your skirts and what is the distance between the lacing holes from one jockey to the other jockey? Thanks, CW

Can anyone tell me who makes the NO 3792 splitter in the Bieller's catalog? How does the workmanship compare to the 84 copy that Campbell Bosworht sells? The Bieller splitter is advertised as having a 9 inch blade. Is that overall length or cutting surface? Thanks, CW

Aurelie, The holes on the superiors are slightly smaller. Just drive the plate down over the #9's. I like these better than blevins . Sometimes the sleeves on the blevins will rub a raw spot on you shin. The draw back on the superiors is that if you don't tuck the leather string on the plate into the hole just below it, you can lose the plate. They sell replacements so I keep a few on hand in case someone comes in that has lost one. CW

Thanks, I'm getting good edges with paste saddle soap, canvas and a big can of elbow grease. I probabably wasn't very clear in my post, but what if any dressing should be used after the edges are done. Are you just using neatsfoot? CW

I have been getting some requests for headstalls and reins. I have never worked with harness leather, after rubbing the edges do you treat it with anything? Thanks, CW

Jeff, I really can't help, you but I wouldn't worry about the smell. If they havn't noticed the smell of dog pee in 17 years I doubt they will notice it when they get the saddle back home. If you get any responses on the second part of the question I would appreciate you passing it on. You made melaugh though. CW

Vince don't be depressed. I think you have some fine work there. You might want to limit the number of pictures and as for some specific critiques. Good luck, CW

Could you tell me a little more on the harness leather. What length is the strap and how much of the 5/8 and 3/4 is there? What are the dimensions and lenght of the reins? What weight is it? cost of the whole lot? Thank you and I pray for your husbands recovery, CW

glad to help. Try varnish in the translator. CW

No Gianni, don't take the rawhide off just put a coat of lacquer on it to seal the old nail holes. You can get it at the hardware store. Good luck, CW

Gianni, I would put another coat of laquer on that tree. CW

Cool idea. That is the song I was going to suggest. CW

I just made this holster for a customer who has that rig. It is for a Ruger Bearcat that he wanted to carry as a crossdraw on the offside of the gunbelt. CW

Thanks Denise your the best. This world needs more Keepers of the kind word.

There is a thread in titled " How to lace rear jockeys" that was posted Aug 3 2009 that has pics of this. I don't know how to include the link to go directly there but maybe someone (Denise) will. In the tutorial he takes the lace on the bottom up the same side it goes down in but you can go across and get the braid on the bottom side as well. Hope this helps, CW

I would still recover the horn. You don't need to disassemble the whole saddle. Untie the bleed knots at the front jockeys and pull any nails then undo the screws under the swells and pull the seat back enough to get the the swell cover. You will have to remove it but its not usually a difficult task and should go back on with little trouble after you recover the horn, With that being said, it appears from the pictures that the saddle had a pretty big horn cap. Would it be possible to screw a smaller wooden horn cap to the brass? If so you could crimp around the horn inside the old stitch line. This would take the slack out of the bottom piece. Then scribe your stitchline, stitch and trim the horn. I just don't think a filler will ever look right. Good luck, CW

If I were you I would just start over and recover the horn. It doesn't take much leather or time and I think you will be happier with the results. CW

Yeah Rickey, I really like the 35's for smaller stuff. I'm just not good enough to run the smaller ones. But the point I was trying to make was that if they don't suit you Barry will replace them no questions asked. At least that was the experience I had. Good luck, CW

Rickey, I got the 27's and they were just way to small for me. I ordered some more tools several months later and asked if I could trade them in for 35's. I told Barry that if the ones I had were not like new I would pay for the 35's. He said not to worry about it he would send them along with the tools I ordered. He definately has my future business. Long story short, order a set and if they don't suit you, you have a reference point to go up or down in size. CW

Uncle Dannie, I clean quite a few saddles and I basically do just what Dennis described. I use Murphys Oil soap in a bucket of water to clean with. I don't like to use the paste saddle soap because if the saddle is stamped or tooled you leave a lot of the paste in the tooling. Take as much of the saddle apart as you feel comfortable with putting back together. (Stirrup leathers can be a bear to get back in). After I clean one I oil it with a coat or two of neatsfoot then with leather conditioner like Williams or Dr. Jacksons. After it dries I put a coat of Tan Cote on. Don't use resolene, it won't let the oil in the next time. Good luck, CW