TwinOaks

Hi folks, I just installed a 'smiley and emoticon' prog. from SweetIM.com. It's supposed to give the user a good supply of smileys to use in email, forums, etc. Once I got it, it didn't perform as expected so I tried to remove it. Apparently removing the program sets off a batch bomb that opens as many windows as your RAM can handle. This is just a heads up for anyone looking for additional 'gizmos' for your desktop.

Glad to read that the color loss seems to be from build up. Before you get break out the chemicals, have you tried a hairdryer? If not, try it out. You might just be able to melt away your problems.

Beaut of a belt Marlon! I just sent this info in response to a PM I received the other day.... For a 'quick' bead, I use a 'screen spline tool'. Yes, one of the little gizmos to fix window screens. They commonly have two wheels, one convex, one concave. The concave side does make a pretty nice half-round bead. I'll caution anyone who wants to try it to use a straight edge as a guide. Mike

Roger, I bought that same kit, but with the intent to use it only for finishes. My thoughts were that if SS or Resolene clogged anything, it'd be easier to deal with than taking apart my 'standard' paasche. And if it gummed up really bad, to the point of it being a hassle....well, it only cost a few bucks. Now, if I could only motivate myself to get the compressor out of the shop......

Hi and welcome to LeatherWorker.net! This place is just crawling with info on leather crafts. It's also one of the nicest places on the Web because of the members. A good place to get started is by coming here!!! For coloring leather, there's some books you should check into, especially books by Al Stohlman. I'm still learning about color too, so I'll let some more experienced folks answer the detailed questions. Airbrush? Yes, they are useful, but don't have to be part of your first tool purchase. If you haven't done so yet, Tandy (tandyleatherfactory.com) is a good place to look for a fairly wide selection of titles. Mike

Hi, and welcome to LeatherWorker.net. You're gonna find a lot of information here, and make some great new friends. Sorry I can't offer some words of advice, but I don't speak sewing machine. However, we have a complete section just for that!!! We're glad you found us.

Check with Tandy. Last week, the mgr of my local store showed me some 'exotic hides' they'd started to carry.

Very nicely done. I particularly like the color. One my screen, it's a little hard to see well, but it looks like the stitching is a little close to the edge. Then again, it may just be my screen. Overall, it's an excellent 'proof of concept', and even better, you know what you'd change for the next one(s).

Hi Don, The vinegaroon might be sprayable, but I don't think I'd try it for a graduated effect like you're looking for. The Vin. chemically reacts with the leather to cause the color change. The reason I don't think it would work is that even thinned, it will have the tendancy to leech through the fibers- very much a wicking effect. It changes the leather's color all the way through the leather. While you might get some faded effect, it would be difficult to keep it even. Once the ferric acetate in the Vin. reacts with the leather, it is going to turn dark grey or black. It might take a little longer, but it will eventually get there. Plus, I and a few others have noticed that it somewhat forces the oils and tallows to the surface of the leather. This might carry lighter dyes to the surface with it, or possibly inhibit their penetration. But, hey, I'm only theorizing on this. Grab some leather and go for it. You might think of a way to make it work. Afterall, Mankind had never been to the moon, until we went. Good luck in your experiments, Mike

This brings up a question that I keep forgetting to ask. What weight leather should be used to make lace?

Hi all, Today is the second day, of three here in Alabama that school related items are tax free. Can you ask for a better time to buy the thin plastic folders that make such excellent stencils? Just a heads up/ reminder for anyone who uses 'school supplies' in their work. Mike

If you need beach pics, let me know. There's probably a gazillion images on the internet anyway, but I live close to the beach and can get some 8MP images if you need them. And...I'll even edit out all the distracting bikinis for you. **Note: I will not be able to get pics of hurricane storm surges, as I will be several hundred miles north of them.**

Maul/mallet weights: The heavier it is, the deeper it'll make impressions for a given swing speed. Too heavy, and it'll drive the stamp right throught the leather. For the edger, just cut a small square notch. All you use it for is break the corner(s) of the leather to give a less square profile to your edge slicker. You can also use sand paper. Mike

Yes, Resolene is a good sealer. Tan Kote is also a good sealer. There's a discussion about them here. I can't compare the edge finishing products per se, but I have and use the Fiebings edge finisher with the applicator built in. I like it. It doesn't really 'build up' and edge, but otherwise does a nice job.

Well Hello there, and welcome to the asylum forum! We're glad to have you here with us. I see you joined back in April, huh? What the devil took you so long to post?????!?!? Doesn't matter, we're still glad to have you. New forum rule: New members/posters have to post pics! If you have any problems, just shout out and we'll be glad to help. Looking forward to seeing your work, Mike

Interesting video.... just a WAG here, but it looks like the leather is wet, and the powder he's using is maybe cornstarch or talc. This would help dry up some of the excess water, and make it easier for him to hand smooth. Like I said, WAG

Yes, Aussie Conditioner. I used it to primarily protect gun metal from any residual acids from the Vin. After several postings, and discussions about it, it would appear that my precautionary steps may not have been necessary. Sorry, I don't remember where/which thread/post it's in. The gist of the posts was that once the darkening has been achieved, a rinse in cold water is probably all that's needed. As I posted previously, after treatment, the leather had pretty much assumed a waxy surface - kinda like neat-lac but not as shiny. The Aussie was just to try and restore some of the oils and fats back into the leather. This was accomplished by heat and pressure- in other words, I rubbed in conditioner until my arms were cramping. The same reconditioning of the leather would have probably been accomplished by use, flexion, abuse...and whatever else you can do to leather. hope this helps, Mike

Very nice work! I also agree that you should leave the thread the way it is. Certainly don't undo it.

Here's a pic of the E 294:*from the Tandy website* When a section is stamped with this, you get a somewhat random pattern of raised and recessed areas.

Hi Happycat, and welcome to Leatherworker.net. I don't think we have a pictoral index of each tool. That would probably require it's own website, due to the enormous number of tools from different makers. General terms- beveler: used to depress the leather, usually along a cut line. This provides an impression that is deeper on one side than the other. Walking the beveler produces a smooth 'bevel' along a line. Pear shader: teardrop shaped tool to make impressions. It's also 'walked' (moved while struck, overlapping each strike) to 'recess' the leather Backgrounder: These tools generally have a pattern of some sort, sometimes checkered, sometimes random, to make a textured surface on the leather. There are too many variations to individually list. However something like a 'background beveler' would create a textured impression, that's deeper on one side- usually deeper at the cut to help visually raise the pattern from the background. Lot's of folks talk about them by their numbers. From what I've seen, Tandy's designation is pretty common, possibly due to their popularity (which is partially based on affordability). Checking out the Tandy website will help you visualize the various tools. Mike

Ian, I read that you supersheened the leather for a finish. On your next test piece, oil the leather and see if it darkens better. The pieces I used vinegaroon on were finished with Aussie. This helped push some of the oil and tallows back into the leather. The end result was not needing any additional finish. Then again, it will vary with the specific tannery. I've had some pieces come out almost Navy Blue, or a shade darker. (This was on some leather that was sent to me by a member here, and he thought it might have been English leather.)

Very nice work Tom. Dang. Another pattern I just have to try.

Hi Rogue, Welcome to Leatherworker.net. For a pattern, you might try 'reverse engineering' a style you like. Basically, grab some scissors or a thread ripper and get some pattern pieces. Obviously, you'll want to do this with cheap versions, rather than with designer labels!!! For the cup....hmmmm. One piece would look better, but would require multiple sizes of the same sized if you're doing production work. A multi-piece cup could afford some customization I'd think. Then again...I'm speaking from a guy's perspective, so I'm probably not the best one to give advice on Bras...at least I hope not!! Seriously, though, I think a separate piece for the cups would be more practical. If you decide on one piece, I'd suggest checking into a (whatever they're called) adjustible torso used by tailors/seamstresses. They have dial adjustments for waist, torso thickness, bust, etc. Consider it an adjustable model that won't complain about cold wet leather. Since they're fabric covered (to allow for pinning fabrics in place), you'll probably want to cover with a waterproof membrane for the actual forming- this could be as light as saran wrap, or for something more substantial...check out Tyvek. Yep, Tyvek. The stuff is used as a house wrap and is pretty stout. However, with thicker material will increase the chance of wrinkles. Of course, you could always find a way to coat the 'model' with latex......hmmmm, laaatexxx.....Oh, ummmm....nevermind. I hope these few ideas will help out. There are some more experienced leatherworkers here that may have some ideas too, and I'm sure they'll chime in in the next day or so. Don't forget to post pics of your work. There's instructions for doing so in the FAQ section, but if you have any problems, just ask.

Wow, I feel really under prepared!!! So far, the only advertising I've been able to do is have my wife show off the things I've made for her. That has turned out to be a pretty good idea so far, though. I'm able to sell the 'bic lighter holster' that Hammerhead was so kind to post, right off the counter at the convenience store she works at. She makes it a habit to leave a few things like her cigarette case on the counter. Saturday, a customer placed an order for one. So I'm selling by consignment and word of mouth....and a few tack repairs here and there. Mike

I think you should just be thrilled that the woodpecker decided to use the existing 'spout' instead of making its own!!