TwinOaks

Tom, I've got a Paasche VL that I'm relearning to use, and I love it. The kit has 3 size needle/tips included. That outta cover all the needs, and it is a siphon feed model. If you're not sure you want to go with that much investment to check it out, here's a link you might find useful click me. They've also got an external mix brush for under $10 that I thought would be great for applying finishes (no clogging the tip).

And as a late edit, I thought I should mention that it's perfectly sized for my 1911

While it's a little more expensive way to do it, I prefer option B. Buy one 1911 of each model so you can build accurate holsters

One of the biggest issues I've noticed with the semi-customs is that below the dust cover, a lot of them now have an accessory rail. That rail is not present on ANY Colt's that I've seen, nor on any other mil-spec 1911 ( Armscor, Springers, etc.) Similarly, older Sigs don't have the rail, the new ones do. If I was in a position to get blue guns, I think I'd opt for the 'no rail' models, and just make a small attachable/removable piece to accomodate customers that have the rail. Of course, then you'll have someone asking for a holster for their CQB with the light/laser attached. Mike

computer blew up!?!?!? I went through that not long ago, and you have my sympathies. Great to have you back among us. Check your PMs.

It' s here!!!! Holly read my profile and my interests in fishing and horses and sent an ingenious PIF that combines them. I and my wife were simply blown away by this. Great work, Holly, and many thanks.

323.9 That's a good way to wait on clothes to finish washing...

yeah, but I bet it never bothers you for very long.

Can we reasonably presume that both leathers were adequately deglazed? If so, the only thing I can think of is that some of the oils in the leather bled to the surface and lifted the finish. I'll be following this one pretty closely, as I really want to know what happened.

http://www.bowstock.co.uk/acatalog/Needles.html Bowstock lists them on the website and online store.

Very nice Spider, but you had me worried- I was scrolling through the pics and not until the very last one, and at the bottom, was there a skull. I was worried that you'd all of a sudden blown a gasket an gone mainstream.

Okay Beave'r, your wierd. But you have to admit to everyone here that sometimes being weird isn't enough

I Vig'd a holster (yes, I'm still trying to get pics of it- scheduling problem with the new holster owner) and it came out fantastic. I didn't soak the leather though, I just 'painted' with the compound. Also, in my solution, I think I've pretty well neutralized the acid. I added a teaspoon of baking soda directly into a half cup of Vig juice and saw almost NO reaction. After several minutes there was some very slight bubbling on the surface of the baking soda. When I made the mix, I used steel wool, then a week later added a handful of nails. I think the process made the ferric acetate, and effectively 'used up' all the acid. Back to the holster. Even though I daubbed the mix on, I have pretty thorough saturation. I did a soda rinse, rinse with water,and then baked it heat the leather. After the 10 minute bake, I re-neutralized, and re-rinsed with water, then baked for ~20 min. at 150 in a convection oven. The leather emerged formed, dry, very firm, and completely free of any vinegar smell. Then I coated with Aussie wax, bagged the gun, slathered Aussie on it, and holstered the weapon. A short while and several draw/reholster actions later ( along with some difficult pressing of the hardened leather around the barrel) I'd pretty well coated the insided of the holster everywhere leather meets steel. More cooling and drying, with the pistol in place, and it was complete. The heat drying also shrank the leather just a tad, and the holster has ZERO shake with the pistol when the thumb break strap is in place. For solid black items, I'll use no other method.

I'm thinking the PVC is going to crack and chip after very little use. It just isn't impact resistant. Perhaps a better solution would be to grap a cheap poly- cutting board and cut some donuts from it. It's dense enough to have some weight, and a stainless bolt recessed in the top would give plenty of stiffness, and an attachment point for the handle.

Yes, Ray, those are ones.

I like to do some sport shooting at a local range, dabble with computers, and when I get a long porch pass, head to the beach to do some surf fishing with my fly rod. I tie my own, and it's really satifying to catch fish with 'bait' you've made yourself.

Luke, I think Ken was deducing linear feet to be laced. Multiply by 8.5 for double loop = a whole dang lot of lace. MadTailor, have you considered correctional facilities?

Going LLC is a good idea in my opinion. The amount will vary. In Alabama, and I'm sure other states, there is an 'Equine activity law'. It holds liability soley on the participants and protects owners, trainers, farriers, etc. of horses. It also protects property owners where activities are persued, whether it be a show, or a school. I'd think that this type of law applies to horse tack as well (but I'm an electrician, not a lawyer), and would afford you some protections.

Absolutely!! I've sent a PM to you Ray.

An awl is the way to go, and definitely you need to sharpen it. When using a drill bit, which I've done, you have to match the bit to the thread, otherwise you'll get gaping holes when the stitch is complete. It looks awful. An awl makes a nice, neat little hole that closes up around the thread. Do be sure to keep your fingers out of the way when pushing the awl through. They are quite a bit softer than leather and offer little resistance to the awl tip.

I'm looking for a supplier for English tack hardware. Particularly the part that goes on the end of the rein. As you can tell, I'm a little new to the tack making aspect of leatherwork, so I don't really know the name of it. It is the piece that is where you'd find snap links on western reins. Mike

The first time I quit was after double pneumonia- hack, cough, I'm done. Two weeks of rest ( yeah, it was a bad case of pneumonia, and left scar tissue) and I had trouble breathing in my friends' aparments. I was smoke free for about 6 months. Then, one day I went fly fishing with my buddy, and had a perfect fishing day. Those angers among you understand. On the walk back to the cars, I bummed one and fell right off the wagon. The second time I quit was the result of traumatic injury, time in the hospital -try waking up three weeks from the last time you remember and not being able to use your hands, and the complete inability to pick one up or light it if you did. I was physically past the addiction, but my brain never conciously went through withdrawal, and I ended up smoking again (hey, in my defense, I was ORDERED to restart so I would be tolerable). Now, I've got a job that has me driving A LOT, and that is where I smoke most of mine. I'm wanting to quit, but I think the real deal maker now is the choice: fuel or cigarettes. Interestingly enough, I don't smoke at all when I'm tooling or carving. Johanna, here' s your excuse to pick up the tools again. Everytime you want to smoke, go carve leather. I like the idea of a LW support group, and will join up to support anyone quitting.

Hi Nick, Welcome to Leatherworker.net...and your new OCD complex! For stitching a holster like you're talking about, you'll need several things: A good Awl. I use the Osbourne from Tandy (31218-01), though there are several to choose from. For thread, I like waxed linen, pick a color. Machine stitching will bypass both of these and probably use 277 on top and bottom, or same top with 207 on bottom. It's really up to who's doing it. I hand stitch everything so I use the linen. Tandy sells it and so does Hobby Lobby (jewelry making supplies). An 'overstitcher' is useful to lay out where the stitch holes will be, but more tediously, you can use a ruler, or a set of dividers (measure length of stitch line, divide by number of stitches per inch you want). Most folks stitch at 5, 6, or 7 stitches per inch. Anymore and the leather acts like the perforation between sheets of paper towels. An often overlooked item is contact cement. If you don't mind the smell, Barge works very well, but if it isn't available to you, regular ol' Elmers Rubber Cement will work too. Use this to keep your edges lined up as you make the stitch holes. If you don't have the awl, you can use a 1/16 drill bit, but it won't look nearly as nice. Word of caution with the drill bit. Place the leather on a backer board to drill. Holding it by hand can and probably will lead to angled holes that don't match up. If appearance is important, consider getting a stitching groover. This cuts a small channel for the thread to lay in as you stitch, and helps prevent abrasion to the thread(s). If you're making a Mexican loop holster, use a small round punch at the end of your slits to help keep the leather from tearing at the end of the cut. I hope this helps, and don't hesitate to ask more questions. There's LOADS of members willing to help out with problems and questions. Looking forward to seeing some of your work. Mike

Howdy folks, I'm working on a set of show reins and trying to match the color of a bridle. So far, the closest match, on leather, appears to be 'fudge brown' in the 'All-in-One' stains. Given Eco- dye's tendency to run when wet, does anyone have input as to the suitability of the All n 1 for reins? I know that this is a stain, not a dye, but I still worry. Plus, as the Eco includes a 'finish' for the leather, how well will the leather take conditioner/ oil? I'll be making a stop by Tandy later this week, and trying to match the color swatches. If the Eco isn't up to the task (I suspect this), which would be better, spirit or oil? And oh, what joy I'll have if I have to mix the colors..... Thanks in advance, Mike

Uh, yeah.....probably next weekend. Camera was kaputz, and I had to deliver the holster. I'll ask the guy if I can get a pic of it. I'll also ask his boss for a pic of the snubby holster I made for him