TwinOaks

Ray, I've got a couple of high PSI quick release couplers I can send you for the plumbing on the kitchen sink on that new model.

I agree that that is normal wear. However, if you have a gunsmith or gun dealer that could verify it, it wouldn't hurt to have an impartial expert 3rd party that could back you up if needed. Here's the other thing- That appears to be a S&W M&P...and I don't think that's a factory finish on it. If the barrel hood was retouched with something like Duracoat, then improper cleaning of the metal prior to application would allow the "finish" to peel off. Is there anything stuck to the tape? That would be the easiest way to determine if you are at any fault. If nothing else, stick another piece of tape to the same area and see if anything else comes off. If it does, contact the customer and tell them you've discovered a problem with the finish. Don't shirk your responsibility (IF IF IF IF IF you are responsible), but don't automatically assume that you are to blame. The customer may have just paid somebody to refinish it before bringing it to your for a holster. Most finishes have a required curing time, and if the customer didn't follow the directions, then YOU are not at fault.....or at least not totally at fault.

If it's a home machine, it's still going to have the problems that all home machines have: Not enough machine, inadequate bobbin capacities, wrong type of feeding mechanism, wrong size needles for leather work, etc. That said, if it's a Pfaff industrial machine, then yes, they are good machines.....but parts are expensive for them. I have a Viking (Husqvarnaa) home machine with a built in 'low gear', and even on a low setting with a roller type presser foot, the best it can do is about 4oz of veg-tan with me helping the itty bitty flywheel on seams. It'll do decently on chap leather, but since it won't handle the thread size I want, it looks rather awkward. If you haven't read it, go to the sewing machine forum and read the article by Wizcrafts on what type of sewing machine you'll need.....and why.

You can also use corrugated box material (stop by walmart some morning) to help you work dealing with a thick medium.....maybe some linoluem scraps if you have a flooring place nearby. Personally, I recommend using leather. Even though you are just starting out, it makes more sense to learn on what you're going to be using. Besides, if you've got ~$40 tied up in a piece of hide.........you'll measure thrice before cutting. That's the upside to using somewhat expensive materials: You learn faster.

In my experience, the vinegaroon does dry out the leather a bit, which is why it's such an important step to oil it after treatment. As the vinegaroon reacts with the tannins, I've noticed that it tends to push some of the natural oils/waxes out of the leather, which is what gives it the water resistance.....also another reason to re-condition the leather. As far as Leather Balm with Atom Wax...It covers well and gives a soft tone to the leather, but I don't think it should be used as a top coat. It just isn't hardy enough, IMO. It seems to act kind of like a less penetrating, shinier carnuba cream. Good for something like a bag or a strap, but not designed to withstand hard use.

The order I'm working on does include the tie downs, also for a glock 19 + 2 mags.....for a buddy's wife. If your customer didn't specify to include them or not, I say: offer the option. Include a small tab at the bottom of the holster/mag pouch for the tie down, and include the tie downs with the rig. If he doesn't want them, it's simple to remove it and the tab doesn't interfere with anything.

On the more serious side of the issue (which admittedly is rare for me), don't buy too much shovel. It may be great for doing large swaths of the white, but keep the weight in mind. Snow can weigh anywhere from around 6 Kilos to close to 30 Kilos per cubic .028 meter .........(aside: just what is the conversion for cubic foot?) .........and you've already said that you get a good bit of the wet slushy snow, so figure you'll be on the heavier end of that range. Grab too much snow and turn the wrong way and the ol' back is going to protest vehemently.

Darshan, thanks for uploading the pictures, that makes it pretty easy for us to see what it is. In the first picture, left hand panel, is that two pockets? And is there a pocket under the center section that is accessible from the fold between the left and center panels?

It's kinda odd that yesterday I got the green light on a shoulder holster order. Maybe these things run in cycles...

You need center-top of back (where the straps cross) across the shoulder and down the front of the torso to under the arm, and from the same spot on the back to the same place under the arm, but going across the back in the shoulder blade area. Those measurements, twice for the straps on each side.

+1 to the grumpy old guy. The key is getting a good bond between the two pieces of leather. Once that's done correctly, they become ONE piece of leather. When you wet it for folding, keep in mind that you are stretching one piece of leather (outside), but at the same time you're compressing the inner piece. Go slow and give the leather time to move on a cellular level.

I recommend you get the type that comes attached to a neighbor's kid, preferably one that will barter labor for cool leather items.

If you have items for sale, please list them in the 'For Sale' forum.

+1 on reading the tutorial on finishing edges. It's in the "how do I do that" section by member 'Hidepounder'.

Aaron, if you're using FireFox, you can tweak it to operate faster. In the address bar, type "about:config", then scroll down to networking.http.pipelining and set that to 'true', then right below it is networking.http.pipeling.maxrequests and you set that higher - I have mine set on 12. That should speed up your experience. You can go back and change it if you don't like it.

After reading the suggestion from Dwight (I think), I started just leaving about 6 inches of thread after the last hole and hand (saddle) stitching the back stitch to lock it down. That allows me to tension the threads 'just right', and it looks a whole lot better. It also lets me put both cut ends on the same side of the piece. It takes just a few more minutes than back stitching with the machine, but I prefer the results. I have not had any problems with it coming loose, either.

I'm okay with it just the way it is. When I check this in the mornings, there's typically between 30 and 60 new posts. When I log back in after work, I hit the new content button and see what's changed....i.e. new posts in the threads I am following. If I click on the the daily active content, I have to scan though the entire list to see if one or two threads have any replies. With the new content, I can pop in on this site, see if any new replies have been made and respond or if there's nothing new in one of the threads I'm following, it isn't on the list and I go back to what I was doing.

One thing that might be stopping it is the file size. With the multiple layers capabilities, the program saves the image as a pretty large file so that it can be further manipulated. Be sure to "flatten objects" and/or save as a common file such as .bmp, .jpg, .jpeg. I had a similar problem with Microsoft digital image suite saving things as a .PNG file. I'd tried to upload a couple of pics and they were in the 15-20 Mb range....changed them to .jpg and it dropped to something like 2Mb.

It's in the brown bar that goes across the screen. It's the one at the top of the section that has Active Users, and Who's Been Online Today.

Thanks, Chris, I was pretty sure you'd have a good idea of what woods to use. Besides my slicker, my wood selection experience is pretty much limited to "no, that 2x4 has a twist...next," and "You want HOW MUCH for this sheet of plywood!?!?"

Johanna, if you want hand written notes, follow these steps: Start>Run> type "notepad">enter.

Markush beat me to it.....must've got off work earlier That thread pretty well sums it up. Mrfixit, I'm glad you see what I'm talking about on finishing joined edges. And you are correct that there are parts that need to be burnished prior to assembly. There's been more than a few holsters pictured on here (some of mine, too) that the edges were finished before assembly and didn't match up exactly, or worse, they had to be cut back and it changed/ruined the stitches' distance from the edge. It actually wastes less leather than most folks realize to make the edges a little wide and cut down to size. At least, it wastes less leather than having to scrap an entire holster...... I avoid using alcohol for casing because I typically color before assembly. Adding the alcohol to leather colored with spirit dyes is just asking to be relocated from the living room to the dog house.

-glue, sew, ........refinish the edges that shouldn't have been done until you have the front and back in place.........stitch, case, mold to gun of choice, heat to set the molding, oil less than you think you need and wait for it to soak in and equalize through the leather, apply finish / top coat / sealer. You're final step will be to protect the leather, so for most beginners I recommend using Katsass' formula of 50-50 Mop-n-glo to water, sprayed on if you can, or dipped. Let dry. Let dry some more. Apply light coat of neutral shoe polish and buff. If you have other things to use for the final coat, by all means please feel free to experiment. Using the home made Resolene is pretty straight forward, CHEAP, and it works......for those who don't want to spend money trying out different finishes.

I had that happen with a full coverage belt slide for a 226. It ticked me off the point that I grabbed a few square-ish tools, and started stretching leather. The really fun way....you know, put a block on each side, then drive a wedge down between them? I stretched it 'til it tried to Moo again. Then I put the pistol in it and finished boning it. I let it mostly dry, then put the pistol BACK in it and molded some more. When I was satisfied that it was done being ornery, I put it on the drying rack. The end result is a leather belt slide that actually *clicks* when the pistol is fully holstered. Good retention, good release with a sharp tug. Break out the tools and see if you can convince it to give up the eighth inch.