Kevin

Agreed, but Weaver's has done alot for us too, before them if you wanted hardware at a decent price you had to buy 100 pieces. It took me 20 yr.s to use up the 1 1/2" brass rings somebody ordered.

I've worked on several of these before and I'm pretty sure they all had brass nails going into the back and peened on the top side.

Mast Harness Shop had Heritage Tools and when their business got too big Weaver's stepped in and bought them out.

To me Union Lockstitch is a whole other story. I don't know how old mine is but it has a zone no. on the nametag and still looks like brand new. I know I haven't run a whole spool of thread through it in almost 30 years, someday we will have a reckoning.

With the Campbell I had (Landis3 also), I just placed the awl right next to the previously stitched hole and it would follow into that hole but not cut the stitch. I always kept my awl at a 45 degree angle, maybe that has something to do with it, but I never had trouble cutting stitches. Notice however that most of the needle and awl talk is in the past tense, my Adler is so much faster and easier on the other people in the room.

I don't make much stuff, but I repair it all. Big Sioux is right on, I use an Adler 205-370 and the feed dog moves everything so much you can't do an accurate job close to the edge on fine work. Even sewing a doubled noseband on a halter I don't bevel the bottom edge 'til after I've sewn it. But it will do everything but the bridle work. Maybe they can set it up so that it will do it for you ( I assume you want to do raised stuff and try to compete with Edgewood). My "bitter old man" suggestion would be to do repairs for a while and you can see what works and what doesn't and why. Pricewise, it's hard to compete with homeless, untouchable, Indian children's handstitching or Edgewood and their inappropriate leather. I charge $10 for a properly made slide keeper and am probably losing at that price. Sorry to ramble on so, Big Sioux Saddlery is correct. Good Luck, Kevin

I just saw a You tube video of a shoe guy using a spoke shave to thin leather.

I just got some from Windmill Saddlery in Ohio $47 . It is fantastic for lacing a saddle together or stitching tops on boots, but I sure don't understand using it where it would be seen. Looks like fishing line to me.

I never heard of a book missing pages as being worth very much, especially since they are the very patterns you will want. Check ebay or amazon, you may be surprised at what is available.

If you're looking for the hardware these companies use, then you are looking for cheap brass plated cast zinc, instead of solid brass. It saves on weight, but doesn't wear that well. You will also find none of these companies will repair their own products or stand behind them. At least that's what my customers tell me. Kevin

Windmill definitely sells the studs you need and I don't think they have a problem with selling small quantities. Try using the telephone, I don't have their no. here at home, but it should be easy to find. Kevin

They are mainly used with nylon so you don't have to punch a hole for the tongue, yes the material goes around the extra bar.

I think a Singer 31-15 with a roller foot will do both jobs. Almost any machine can do it, just not a big machine. I've always called that a French binding, but I don't really know if that's the proper term or not. Good luck, Kevin

I go along with your thread being too big. Think of it this way, the thread is about the same thickness as one ply of the leather you are sewing, four pieces of thread have to fit into the hole the needle makes,there just isn't enough room. Good luck, Kevin

I use Q-tip type things that are made for applying make-up. One end is shaped like a Q-tip and the other is pointed. It is denser than a Q-tip and doesn't turn into mush immediately. I don't know about tape, I'm afraid it will take something off the leather or leave something on the leather, but people do seem to use it. You might try thinning your glue, something like that, I would use two coats of thin glue. Good luck, Kevin

I have tried making a roller for a strap cutter using leather disks and watered down Elmer's (PVA), it didn't work at all. Maybe the leather was already too dense, it didn't absorb anything. Keep on experimenting, Kevin

Maybe Landis-Letendre in Canada might have one. I have a Sutton Patcher, but it is a rebuilt Singer 29-60. Good luck, Kevin

I would just use triple 0 steel wool to get any rust that might stain your leather, it doesn't really need to be polished, in my experience, a little texture helps to burnish. I wouldn't oil it unless you aren't going to use it for a while or it's in a very humid area. Good to see you, Kevin PS Using it will polish it.

Sylvia is right, but maybe you got some book binding tools that can be heated and used with the foil. Kevin

Looking good. Kevin

Yes, that is a plough gauge for cutting straps. Kevin

It is a stud. Ohio Travel Bag has some, but I don't know if they have that exact one. Kevin

We had a Nolte-Olsen saddle come through our shop about 25 years ago. It was bought at a local church rummage sale and was old enough to be before Nolte sold out to Olsen. It was beautiful. Kevin

Very, very nice Bruce, Thank You. Kevin

If you look to the left of the butterfly that Jose is talking about, there is a screw that controls the "follower" that rides on the cam that causes the foot to lift while you sew. Loosen the screw and move that "follower" down and tighten the screw again. I would call this the primary adjustment and then the butterfly the fine tuning. I may not be calling things by their proper name, but it looks to me like the "follower" is barely touching the cam. I have seen patchers with so much varnish on the parts that if you tighten the stitch length clamp too much, the three shafts bind together and the foot won't come all the way down on the work. Good luck, Kevin