DJole

I have nearly completed a book cover, made out of python skin backed with pigskin liner. 95% of the sewing is done, but now I have another problem. The gentleman who requested the piece has another that a fellow made for him years ago, in the Phillippines. This original book cover seems to have some kind of smooth laquer finish over the snake skin, but I am not certain. So, for you snake-skin experts out there, what kind of finish will lock down the scales, but still be somewhat flexible and not change the color too much?

The back on mine gave me nightmares, too. I'd LOVE to watch somebody who knows how to do it demonstrate the tricks. I bet that the example in the Al Stohlman books is using a much thicker leather, which would make a difference. Hey, that would probably be me! I'm flattered that you decided to do a similar piece. I like your snap solution--it's an interesting idea to put them on the spikes.

I am fabricating a book cover out of white python skin for a client. I have a rough made of pigskin to test out pattern sizing (I don't want to cut that expensive python skin until I KNOW the pattern will fit the book!). But when I actually start sewing the python, I am not sure what thread type, or weight, I should use. It will be sewn on a machine, and I do have leather sewing machine needles. So, here are my questions: 1) what kind of thread should I use? I don't want to cut the leather with the thread, and neither do I want the thread to fall apart in a year or two. The book cover will likely see frequent use (at least weekly). 2) any problems I need to anticipate while using the machine on that skin? 3) What kind of finish should go on that leather? thanks in advance!

I see that you are in the state of Washington, as am I. I'm in Tacoma--where are you located?

That would probably be me...althought what I made wasn't exactly a dice cup but rather a storage container for a LOT of dice. (It could be used as a dice cup, though...) I see that you chose to do your cylindrical butt stitching differently than I did. It seems like I am the only masochist who wants to try it the "normal" way! I like the edging on top--that's a nice touch.

He already has a big drawstring bag. The bag he has now will probably fill this up 3/4 of the way. So he could put the bag into this tube to carry it. Of course, he doesn't NEED this, but it's a nice bit of Dungeon Master decoration. And perhaps other people will want one, too, in which case we'll just have to negotiate price.

A very nice piece indeed! The design is excellent, and the modeling is very good too. Fantasy armor isn't my thing (I like the real stuff better) but that armor is very nice to look at, since it actually hovers at the border between function and fantasy. I hope that wasn't all handstitched... Are you sure you don't work for WETA? ;-) I am curious about your coloring--do you use an airbrush?

oh, yeah, scale would be nice, wouldn't it? The detachable top is 3 inches in height. It'll hold a LOT of dice...but then again, my friend (as many RPG players do) has a lot of dice.

I have a pricking wheel, which I used. I also have a saddler's stitching chisel (4 prong, diamond shaped tines) that I have used on other projects. Is it the curved awl that makes the difference? That might remove some of the guesswork of trying to make the straight awl go the exact same angle from the top to the edge of the leather for every single hole. You're using a softer leather, it looks like, and also using a cross-over stitch, which I didn't want to use here.I did, however, use a metal canister as a form for this piece.

Oh, very nice! I'm not a chopper guy, but I do like that seat! It's a great design, and I'd almost hate to sit on it, knowing it would wear down the tooling!

Okay, expert hand stitchers...how can I do this right? The top part is NOT butt stitched (leather too thin for it) but the bottom part is. It looks simple...poke awl through at angle, top to edge, and stitch. But there are places where the hole seems to stretch and thus move out of position, and even seems to make the stitches uneven in length. How is this done right? Would a curved awl help?

Okay, it's almost all done. Just ONE bit of lining to glue in under the top. Here's an oblique view, so you can see the pointed top: Here is a flat view of the front:

when you say "reeactment," do you mean people hitting you, or not hitting you? If it's just for looks, rather than actual use, that will make a difference. You'll probably be buying big bottles of dye, then. You will likely want to look into spraying systems, too, rather than having to brush dye onto big pieces of leather. I'm on the opposite coast, so I can't refer you to shops in your area. Of course, there is always mail order. You can find links on this forum to various suppliers. You'll have to look at a specific company and then ask people about that company. In addition to the above basic set, you'll likely be adding other tools. Don't drop a lot of money and buy them all at once; you need to figure out which tools will do the task you want them to do. (As an example, I myself don't have camoflauge or veiner tools, because I don't do the floral carving that those are used for.) I bought tools as I worked on the project, realizing that I needed tool X to do specifically what I wanted. You can do a lot with just an exacto knife and a modeling spoon, actually. That's what I used for quite a while, when I rarely did a project. But then you might decide that a swivel knife is better, if you do this more often. For what I guess you'll be doing, you'll probably want to start modelling with a beveler, a background matter of some sort, and perhaps a pear shader. They come in different sizes, so it's hard to recommend a particular An edge slicker might be useful (although some people just use denim scraps, I understand). I don't know if you'll be doing any stitching in addition to riveting, which means I don't know if you will need an awl, needles, waxed thread, creasers/gougers, and so on. So, what do you have in mind, for armor or designs?

Oh, that's very nice! The black on black theme works so very well for that design. I like the little corner treatments which add a lot to the design.

My friend Tom is an avid role playing gamer, and has loads of dice. He has a perfectly good bag to carry them in, but I offered to make him a custom dice "box" for them. We discussed the design, and I came up with this cylinder design: This is the current photo of the work in progress. The piece was just freshly tooled, and the leather still wet when the photo was taken. I had not yet smoothed out the bevel marks or other tooling yet. I have dyed the leather now (dark green dragon with yellow feet and facial details, red horns, mahogany doors, antique black stone door frame), and I am beginning to stitch this body piece to the bottom circle. When completed, there will be a top cylinder cover that will fasten to this piece that can be used as a dice cup. I'll post the completed piece, too.

Oops...double post! sorry about that. I don't see a delete button, so I guess the moderators are in charge of that.

What thickness of leather should I use? For the SCA, if it's fighting armor, rather than decorataive, that depends on your Kingdom requirements, and what that armor is covering (bone or flesh). Different parts of your body will require different thicknesses (and don't forget the padding underneath). If it's not meant for actual combat, then it depends on how heavy you want it to be, and what you'll be doing with it. (Vague, I know, but we need more info!) How do I dye the leather? Do you mean all one color? Or multliple colors in different designs? You may be able to purchase complete hides in a particular color, which will save you a LOT of time, but you will most likely have to purchase bottles of dye. You should not use a water-based dye (i.e. Tandy's Eco-Flo) on your armor, because your armor will see a lot of moisture, and that water based dye will bleed and run. What is the most effective way of hardening the leather that wont burn me or my house down? Sorry, I have no experience with this. You might want to ask this question in SCA forums, instead of leatherwork forums. Where is the best online supplier of cowhide and accessories? That's hard to say--how much hide do you need, what weight, and so on? It might help if we knew what state or city you were in. What tools should I use to get started? Well, are you planning on doing tooling? Or just basic armor work? I'll assume you mean the latter. So, for basic armor construction: 1) You'll be working with heavier leather, so you need good strong SHARP knives to cut the leather. Leather shears might work, depending on the thickness of your leather. 2)You'll need a metal ruler. 3) You'll need something to punch holes with. You'll be better off with a set of drive punches, rather than the plier type (which will only punch holes close to the edge). 4) Your drive punches will require a mallet--not a hammer, but a soft faced mallet. 5) A strap cutter would be very useful. You can live without one, but they make strap cutting FAST and easy. 6) Rivets for leather--there are different types, for different uses. Some are strong enough to make hinges, some are not. Make sure they are long enough for your leather thicknesses. 7) Rivet setting tools 8) Some kind of cutting board or surface to use, so you don't ruin your tools OR the kitchen table! 9) Some kind of surface for punching/pounding on, so you don't ruin etc. 10) If you are dying, some kind of spirit dye, with sponges or daubers to apply it. 11) Some kind of surface treatment to seal against dirt/moisture/etc. That should do for starters. If you are doing decorative stamping or tooling, you need to start with the above, and then we need to have a better idea about what you are planning to do before we can recommend tools. I used an Xacto knife and a modeling tool for tooling for years before I decided to get serious.