DJole
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Everything posted by DJole
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" 6. Any really good classes, books, or online bag making tutorials out there that are recommended? " Oh, yes! Here are a couple that I have bookmarked; both are British leatherworkers-- Ian Atkinson's video series (his shop is Leodis Leather up in Leeds) are very nice-- good camera work and explanations. (see http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm for a complete list). He has some bag making build-along tutorials that are likely what you need. Nigel Armitage (of Armitage leather) has excellent videos about technique: see his Youtube channel: (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8urn9l3pybW5LztUa6zbOA)
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Amen to that. It's not the fact that it doesn't actually make anything white which bugs me (acrylic works perfectly fine for that), but the fact that it leaves a residue behind, which gummed up one of my mixing cups when I tried to make the pastel green in a mixing cup. And I had to spend time cleaning the gumminess off of my dye pipettes too. So, I have no idea what Fiebing actually intended it to do, because it's never done what I needed it to do.
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So that's a pear backgrounder, right? I can see your frustration! Here's some things that might help: 1) small 'steps' of the tool-- at least 3/4 to 1/2 overlap 2) not too much pressure-- it's a shader,not a stamp. 3) realizing that it will take a couple of passes before the pattern becomes randomized. Go left to right, then right to left, trying to overlap just enough to slowly blend in the tool marks. I don't use this tool very often, but the times I have used it, the above have helped. You have one line (just to the right and down a bit of the center of the photo), right along the edge of a "scale," with the shader vertical, which looks like a good start.
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I'm working on a leather covered box. This is the front panel (about 6 inches by 4 inches). It's a design taken from wood carvings on Buddhist temples in Korea, and the fierce face is meant to scare evil away. I'm still thinking about the other three panels of the box. Here are the dyes used: Angelus green Angelus yellow Angelus wine-tone+ yellow (to make the orange) Angelus burgundy (the mouth) Angelus rose (the tongue) Fiebing USMC black white acrylic The pale green is an attempt to use Fiebing's problematic white to make a pastel green. I put the white on first, and then did another coat with the green. I'm not pleased with the results, so I won't try that again. The white seemed very gritty or gummy, and not liquid like the other dyes are.
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"She also wants tooling done on the breastplate which i know i will have to do before the wetforming of the leather.." Are you wet-forming this around a mold of some kind (like a wooden form)? Most tooling won't hold up to that-- the wet leather and the stretching will dull a lot of the detail. "Should i cut the leather to my patterned shape before forming, or just a rough shape so that i can form it into the correct curves and clean it up it after forming?" Rough it and trim-- the wet leather will stretch and bunch up in ways you won't anticipate, so you'll need extra "slop". If you look up videos about wet-forming pouches, you can see what this means.
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This is cuir boulli, molded in a shallow cup shape. The shell is gold acrylic, and that's Angelus Light Blue for the background. I hardly ever lace things, but it's a great idea here-- the lacing not only holds it on, but it also protects the highest wearing point where other swords will actually make the most contact. This is the raw piece, just after cutting the design in with my swivel knife.
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I made a toggle button for closing a pouch, with a loop closure (see the detail here on my webpage...it's the next to last photo from the end) I don't think I'd use it for shoes-- too much stress.
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That's a NICE concept, and the execution is excellent. *applause* -
That's a nice setup you have there! -
I love that laced scabbard style. I have bookmarked an excellent how-to (http://www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp) for future reference.
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I have had Eco-Flo dyes bleed when they got wet. What are you putting on these as a water-proof finish?
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Leather Thickness For Turnshoe Uppers
DJole replied to JakeDiebolt's topic in Historical Reenactment
The one pair of shoes I have built so far (of a turn welt construction) were of a pretty thin leather. I can't remember what thickness, but I estimate 2 or 3 oz leather. There is no butt stitch or tunnel stitch on these, however, so it doesn't answer your question. It would be VERY difficult to do a butt stitch on that thin leather, and I don't see such a stitch lasting very long under the stress and strain of footwear. I don't claim that they are reproduction medieval shoes (I made them a LONG time ago, before the Web existed, and I didn't have a copy of the book by Francis Grew and Margarethe de Neergaard, 1988, Shoes and pattens: medieval finds from excavations in London. The stitches I used (based on Marc Carlson's chart from his excellent shoe webpage) on this shoe were what Carlson terms Stabbed Stitching (Flesh/Grain stitching). See chart here: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/STITCH2.HTM#SEAMS The welt I used is 3 or 4 oz. leather, and the soles are probably 5 oz leather. -
Oh, that is gorgeous! -
Cyre: isn't Angelus (from whom I have recently started buying dyes) based in California? -
Oh my...those are breathtaking! I might have to try doing that myself someday! I love the toe style, with that little up-curve point. Is that formed over the last?
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Handmade leather case with Tatarstan symbol .
DJole commented on scraft's gallery image in Our Leatherwork Galleries
Very nice! I'd love to see some details of the tops and the other sides! -
I was looking at those trying to figure out a way to close them. The first thing that comes to mind is a stretch cord fastener (the triangle top is fastened to the cord, so you pull it up to get the dice out, then you let it snap down snug onto the base.) That would be a clean design, but I don't know how durable it would be.
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*applause* that's a fine piece of work, sir! -
She's not actually going to use that or swing it around, right? That's pretty much a decoration-only sword, or for wearing around. With the little safety talk out of the way--are you looking for a historical scabbard, or any kind of scabbard at all? Here is a page I have bookmarked--this has some of the best step-by-step instructions of how to make a scabbard http://www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp (and someday,when I get my sword, I'll make one of these laced scabbards for it, 'cause they make my heart go pitter pat.)
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Oh,that's a great idea! It's meta-dice! I don't know if I'd want to go more than the 8 or 10 sided die, however. I can't see doing a 20 sider out of leather (although Mojo just might...heh!)
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Cool! I look forward to seeing them! I have another box in the works right now--I'm finalizing the design which will go on it. The box will have a face of a Buddhist temple "demon" on all four sides. I also have a blank, book-shaped box which I will use in the future for design #4.
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That's pretty good work! I made something similar a few years back:
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I have a new piece of work--it's another dice box. This one is built around a clear plastic box.
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Okay, I got it all done. It's carved, tooled, dyed and framed! Here's the sequence <http://home.comcast.net/~lukeythetruck/djole/Publications/Leather/LeatherNativity.htm> Here's the final bit:
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I don't know what size that dice cup is. The one I made is probably 10 inches high or so (estimated from memory). I used a metal container (which one held gourmet hot chocolate, I believe) to wet-form it around after carving it. The next time I do this, I'll form it around the PVC stiffener. And the barrel stitch--I need to find people more experienced than myself (or maybe a video) to show me what to watch for.