DJole

I got an arbour press last year. (Vevor #1, a one ton press.) I made sure to get one with the hole and set screw already drilled in the square pressing shaft. I use it to set rivets, snaps, and for my custom maker's stamp. It is a lot more accurate than hammering! I don't have any clicker dies for use on it yet, but I'd like to try that next. I have been pleased with it so far.

Maybe you could lose that Chapstick and save a couple pounds? haha! Seriously though--that's a 20 year old belt? It's a tough piece of work!

You might find some useful information in Ian Atkinson's videos. I have linked, below, his video which discusses what tools a beginner needs: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/learn/videos.htm The one video I mentioned above is titled "The Tools You Need for Leatherwork!"

Looking at the sheath as a working piece, with the knife going in, coming out, many many times.... I wonder if the stitches along the blade edge will get sliced, especially as the leather stretches over time and use. Would a welt along that edge be a good idea? I'm no expert on sheathes, so I look forward to someone with experience to correct me if I am wrong.

Type the search term "coin holder keychain" into Amazon, and look at some of the possibilities there.

Thanks-- it was a complicated project that stretched my skills a bit, and I'm pleased with the results.

This took me a while to complete, because I had never done an outside zipper pocket like this before (with rolled, hidden edges inside). The outside zip pocket is lined with genuine handwoven blue Harris Tweed, selected from the Harris Tweed shop on the Isle of Harris, Scotland. That blue tweed has come a long way! The interior is lined with a bright blue leather, and has a patch pocket The zipper has a thistle charm I got from Amazon. All it needs now is an appropriate strap.

I have one of those "safety skivers" (the silver one), but I never could get it to work right, never making a clean, even skive. I now use two different tools for skiving. One is a French edge skiving tool, and the other is an Olfa Japanese skiving knife. Do an internet search on those terms to see what I am talking about. I spent some time watching videos to see how the Japanese skiving knife is used, and I caught on quickly. I polish the edge up with 1000 grit sandpaper and my leather strop before starting a skiving project, and I have learned the "feel" when I need to re-polish in mid project. For other jobs, such as skiving large bits of leather (rather than just edges, like the Japanese knife), I use the French edge skiver. I keep it sharp and polished too. For some projects using stiffer leather, I can use it for edge skiving. Maybe others have figured out how to get those skiving tools to work, but mine just sits in a drawer, and I reach for the other two tools frequently. I think the only selling point is that they are "safety" skivers, whereas the other skivers (especially the Japanese knife) have a bare razor edge, right there ready to injure the careless. Just keep them sharp and polished, be careful, be aware of where your fingers are, and use a polished stone surface to skive on.

Makes any horse look like a throroughbred! ; Nice, solid work!

In the lock stitch, the threads are pulling on each other. In the saddle stitch, they are only pulling on the leather. I wonder if that might make a difference? Of course, it's only speculation without somebody putting the threads to a test on an industrial testing machine.

I have a tube of Barge all purpose cement, toluene-free formula, here. Unfortunately, I can't compare it to other Barge formulas, or other adhesives, since I have little or no experience with them. I have been quite happy using this particular Barge formula for bags and wallets. For shoes? I don't know.

Interesting... do the original caps have any sort of liner?

Oh, I think I see what you mean now. I have some patterns (templates now, since I have glued them onto cardstock) that I need to be taped securely to the leather. So what I have done is this: I used clear packing tape to cover the pattern. If I am using the pattern on damp leather, to trace tooling lines, or punching holes, or cut-out pieces, etc., the tape goes on the front and back faces of the template (paper top, cardboard/cardstock bottom). So now the paper doesn't tear, since it's reinforced by the cardstock it's glued to, and by the plastic tape layer. This also means I can tape it to the leather (around the edge, to the back side) without tearing the pattern when I am finished. Is this closer to what you are looking for?

What I do for my patterns: I make them larger than the leather, so that they fold over the edges (2 opposite edges), and I use masking tape on the back (flesh side) of the leather to hold the pattern in place.

I have 2 Xacto knives, for lighter leather. I used these for a few years, until I realized that other tools are better suited for some tasks. For instance, I have a craft knife (snap-off blade) and a box cutter, for thick leather, and a rotary cutter which is excellent for soft leathers. The "push" cutting of my rotary cutter really helps me keep straight lines. I use Tandy's heavy leather shears for some things, especially lighter leathers with complex curves. I have recently been using my Japanese style skiving knife to cut straight lines and trim corners, after watching many videos of people doing that. And to skive with, of course! But not all leathers-- some I skive with my French skiver. I don't even know where my Safety skiver is at the moment, since I don't use it anymore. Most people have a variety of knives for different purposes! It really depends on the project. Probably just as important, though, are the following: Keep the knives sharp! Before starting a new project, replace or sharpen the blades. Learn how to sharpen a blade and how (and how often) to use a strop--it really makes a difference! Have a good cutting mat underneath. Cutting mats with grid lines are very useful for making sure lines are parallel. For straight lines, use a metal ruler to guide your cuts. A cork-backed ruler is what I use. But don't go out and buy all the knives right away!

Check out these beginner-oriented videos from Leodis Leather. He discusses what tools you might already have, what leather to use, and so on. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvoKYeh7ahyGB-numgnO3WxOVi3Sgkyzg

I regularly buy leather from PeggySueAlso. They are located in Tacoma: 2916 S Steele St, Tacoma, WA 98409, in the same building as North Star Glove factory (call 253-627-2656 for hours-- I believe they close at 2 pm) https://www.peggysuealsoleather.com/shop They have veg tan sides and full hides, in 2 oz up to about 10 oz. They can cut it as needed. You can handle the leather and view it before, too. They also have a tremendous selection of fashion leather, which the top link will give you just a taste of. They have shelves, and shelves, of leather, and another set of rooms with just cut panels. I've bought Saffiano leather there, faux alligator, faux ostrich, faux elephant, goat skin, and even floral prints, not to mention veg tan panels. The veg tan is very good quality, too -- nice and clean, takes tooling and dyeing very well. (Note that they do leather only -- no tools, accessories, thread, glue, etc.)

What is the project? Knowing how and where it will be used is information that makes a difference for thread choice.

Here are the four I have made so far, in a family portrait. It's been fun to try out different patterns and techniques.

I'm making a series of bags using motifs from the early medieval Ornes stave church in Norway. I finished this one last night. That flap (with the soft raspberry colored leather and the folded edge) was a pain! I won't be doing that very often. ;-) The red gusset is faux elephant, and the red edges are Vernis edge paint from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. The purple dragon and buckle strap are done with Angelus dye, non-diluted.

Angelus dye has a Light Rose color. I've used it on veg tan, and it is pink.

Without a round knife, I use both a Japanese style skiving knife (from Olfa, with the replaceable blades, which I just sharpen and strop), and a French style. I use them for different tasks.

I don't have any specifics about tool makers or shops, unfortunately. There are certain very skilled ateliers in the Seoul area, but not down in this part of town. I also didn't get a whole lot of time to really peruse the shops...the kids were on their last legs, so I really had to limit my time. ;-(

Does the thread melt or burn when you apply a lighter to an end?

Looks like the halibut lost that fight... Good catch...and good holster, too!