DJole

I made a toggle button for closing a pouch, with a loop closure (see the detail here on my webpage...it's the next to last photo from the end) I don't think I'd use it for shoes-- too much stress.

I love that laced scabbard style. I have bookmarked an excellent how-to (http://www.yeoldegaffers.com/project_scabbard.asp) for future reference.

I have had Eco-Flo dyes bleed when they got wet. What are you putting on these as a water-proof finish?

The one pair of shoes I have built so far (of a turn welt construction) were of a pretty thin leather. I can't remember what thickness, but I estimate 2 or 3 oz leather. There is no butt stitch or tunnel stitch on these, however, so it doesn't answer your question. It would be VERY difficult to do a butt stitch on that thin leather, and I don't see such a stitch lasting very long under the stress and strain of footwear. I don't claim that they are reproduction medieval shoes (I made them a LONG time ago, before the Web existed, and I didn't have a copy of the book by Francis Grew and Margarethe de Neergaard, 1988, Shoes and pattens: medieval finds from excavations in London. The stitches I used (based on Marc Carlson's chart from his excellent shoe webpage) on this shoe were what Carlson terms Stabbed Stitching (Flesh/Grain stitching). See chart here: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/STITCH2.HTM#SEAMS The welt I used is 3 or 4 oz. leather, and the soles are probably 5 oz leather.

Oh my...those are breathtaking! I might have to try doing that myself someday! I love the toe style, with that little up-curve point. Is that formed over the last?

I was looking at those trying to figure out a way to close them. The first thing that comes to mind is a stretch cord fastener (the triangle top is fastened to the cord, so you pull it up to get the dice out, then you let it snap down snug onto the base.) That would be a clean design, but I don't know how durable it would be.