DJole

I used a different approach on my cell phone case. My cell phone is a "soap bar" type, that doesn't flip open. The holder is an oval cylinder, with the top cover held on by a snap. The cover also has an interior loop through which I have fastened the hand strap of my phone, so they are connected. That means I don't lose the top, because it's attached to the phone, and the phone is also harder to misplace! The basket weave was done with a knife and a beveler--no stamping. You can see the gold snap clip, which is clipped onto a belt loop riveted to the case. Maybe you'll see something in this that you'll find useful.

I want to see the "back" of the cylinder, where you stitched it together. Do you have pix of that?

The dye job is attractive--the two tones are striking. I like your ship, too--it matches the style of pirate-era art, and reminds me of scrimshaw work. I suspect that the owner will have a hard time keeping this garter hidden...

Wow, that's ambitious for a first piece! I can see you are getting used to the tools and what they do, and how to replicate anatomy. I'm not a figure carver--never done it, and likely never will--but good on you for giving it a try!

That's the same way I got my granite slab--I saw the custom stonework store on a nearby street and walked away with a scrap piece of granite countertop. It's ragged on one edge, and I suppose I should smooth it down one of these days, but it didn't cost me a cent.

Oh, very nice! The bag is a good solid piece; the line decorations (scratched?) are perfect for period decorations; the piping is a lovely flourish that makes this piece sing. And hand stitched, too. Bravo! I'd love to see the back. Got any photos?

I needed a new wallet, so I decided to build my own, from my own design. I like tri-folds, and I knew what kinds of pockets I wanted and a way to install the ID card holder that wouldn't tear the plastic holder. So I got out my tooling leather, and some pigskin lining, and came up with this design. Here's the tooling bit on the top. The design is a copy of an enameled metal piece on the Sutton Hoo purse. (geek humor: this is a wallet, so it makes sense to have this purse image, right? right?) I have a soft spot in my heart for oxblood dye, so I finally got a chance to use some here. And I've been wanting to use my lovely red linen thread, too. Here's the interior: The coin pocket is riveted at the high stress points (which is where my old wallet finally died). The side pocket which holds my debit card is open on BOTH sides, so I can slip it out via the angle side or the other. The ID card folder is slipped through a leather loop sewn on to the interior. It was a nice little project, that taught me some things about measuring and folding. You can see that I didn't get it quite right, and that there is one set of erroneous holes across one of the pocket edges, but I'm keeping them as a reminder for next time!

Here's the side of what I call the Bird Box. It's my first experiment in matte backgrounding, dyed black with a lot of care and a SHARP paintbrush. The birds are an original design, in a vaguely Celtoid sensibility. The spirals showed me that a smaller beveler would be useful--I seem to want to work in miniature rather than make big pieces. Here's the top of the box: It's an Anglo-Saxon bird. I like the contrast of the yellowish British Tan background with this antiqued Natural dye. The relief on this carving just begs me to run my finger over it.

Oh, that's lovely! It's almost too nice to sit on!

Yeah, I like that second pattern better. The horse is too pictorial--it's not abstract enough, like the original Celtic design work is. (And for what it's worth, the second pattern isn't really Celtic--I would categorize it as more Norse than Celtic, based on a few stylistic cues. Not all knotwork is Celtic, after all.)

I don't think what you are looking at is edge creasing. It appears to me that you are asking about stitching grooves (the channel in which the stitches rest, below the surface of the leather). There are tools that do this--look for stitching groovers at tool suppliers online and in real life.

Oh, bravo! That's beautiful! That's the best illustrated tutorial I've seen. It makes me want to go out and try one right away!

I have nearly completed a book cover, made out of python skin backed with pigskin liner. 95% of the sewing is done, but now I have another problem. The gentleman who requested the piece has another that a fellow made for him years ago, in the Phillippines. This original book cover seems to have some kind of smooth laquer finish over the snake skin, but I am not certain. So, for you snake-skin experts out there, what kind of finish will lock down the scales, but still be somewhat flexible and not change the color too much?

The back on mine gave me nightmares, too. I'd LOVE to watch somebody who knows how to do it demonstrate the tricks. I bet that the example in the Al Stohlman books is using a much thicker leather, which would make a difference. Hey, that would probably be me! I'm flattered that you decided to do a similar piece. I like your snap solution--it's an interesting idea to put them on the spikes.

I am fabricating a book cover out of white python skin for a client. I have a rough made of pigskin to test out pattern sizing (I don't want to cut that expensive python skin until I KNOW the pattern will fit the book!). But when I actually start sewing the python, I am not sure what thread type, or weight, I should use. It will be sewn on a machine, and I do have leather sewing machine needles. So, here are my questions: 1) what kind of thread should I use? I don't want to cut the leather with the thread, and neither do I want the thread to fall apart in a year or two. The book cover will likely see frequent use (at least weekly). 2) any problems I need to anticipate while using the machine on that skin? 3) What kind of finish should go on that leather? thanks in advance!

I see that you are in the state of Washington, as am I. I'm in Tacoma--where are you located?

That would probably be me...althought what I made wasn't exactly a dice cup but rather a storage container for a LOT of dice. (It could be used as a dice cup, though...) I see that you chose to do your cylindrical butt stitching differently than I did. It seems like I am the only masochist who wants to try it the "normal" way! I like the edging on top--that's a nice touch.

He already has a big drawstring bag. The bag he has now will probably fill this up 3/4 of the way. So he could put the bag into this tube to carry it. Of course, he doesn't NEED this, but it's a nice bit of Dungeon Master decoration. And perhaps other people will want one, too, in which case we'll just have to negotiate price.

A very nice piece indeed! The design is excellent, and the modeling is very good too. Fantasy armor isn't my thing (I like the real stuff better) but that armor is very nice to look at, since it actually hovers at the border between function and fantasy. I hope that wasn't all handstitched... Are you sure you don't work for WETA? ;-) I am curious about your coloring--do you use an airbrush?

oh, yeah, scale would be nice, wouldn't it? The detachable top is 3 inches in height. It'll hold a LOT of dice...but then again, my friend (as many RPG players do) has a lot of dice.

I have a pricking wheel, which I used. I also have a saddler's stitching chisel (4 prong, diamond shaped tines) that I have used on other projects. Is it the curved awl that makes the difference? That might remove some of the guesswork of trying to make the straight awl go the exact same angle from the top to the edge of the leather for every single hole. You're using a softer leather, it looks like, and also using a cross-over stitch, which I didn't want to use here.I did, however, use a metal canister as a form for this piece.

Oh, very nice! I'm not a chopper guy, but I do like that seat! It's a great design, and I'd almost hate to sit on it, knowing it would wear down the tooling!

Okay, expert hand stitchers...how can I do this right? The top part is NOT butt stitched (leather too thin for it) but the bottom part is. It looks simple...poke awl through at angle, top to edge, and stitch. But there are places where the hole seems to stretch and thus move out of position, and even seems to make the stitches uneven in length. How is this done right? Would a curved awl help?

Okay, it's almost all done. Just ONE bit of lining to glue in under the top. Here's an oblique view, so you can see the pointed top: Here is a flat view of the front:

when you say "reeactment," do you mean people hitting you, or not hitting you? If it's just for looks, rather than actual use, that will make a difference. You'll probably be buying big bottles of dye, then. You will likely want to look into spraying systems, too, rather than having to brush dye onto big pieces of leather. I'm on the opposite coast, so I can't refer you to shops in your area. Of course, there is always mail order. You can find links on this forum to various suppliers. You'll have to look at a specific company and then ask people about that company. In addition to the above basic set, you'll likely be adding other tools. Don't drop a lot of money and buy them all at once; you need to figure out which tools will do the task you want them to do. (As an example, I myself don't have camoflauge or veiner tools, because I don't do the floral carving that those are used for.) I bought tools as I worked on the project, realizing that I needed tool X to do specifically what I wanted. You can do a lot with just an exacto knife and a modeling spoon, actually. That's what I used for quite a while, when I rarely did a project. But then you might decide that a swivel knife is better, if you do this more often. For what I guess you'll be doing, you'll probably want to start modelling with a beveler, a background matter of some sort, and perhaps a pear shader. They come in different sizes, so it's hard to recommend a particular An edge slicker might be useful (although some people just use denim scraps, I understand). I don't know if you'll be doing any stitching in addition to riveting, which means I don't know if you will need an awl, needles, waxed thread, creasers/gougers, and so on. So, what do you have in mind, for armor or designs?