480volt

Interesting. I’ll have to log in with a different browser and see what there is to see. With safari on an I-phone, all is well.

Huh? In my browser, it shows up as the typical upper left hand corner icon, not in the body of the post. What do you see?

One last comment about your project. In my own opinion, the steampunk esthetic has slid from an attempt at (sort of) a plausible adherence to a story line or actually functional things, to “stick a bunch of brass gears and shit on it”. I think you get high marks for making something that looks practical and functional.

Maybe a “dead blow” hammer...

Very creative, nice attention to “means and methods”. All it lacks is a hammer... Though, if you’re making it for a Con, I suppose a hammer might not make it through security.

I like old tools and machinery, particularly things that stay usable for decades (or more). That is the “rode hard and put away wet” Koenig PTO winch on the front of my 1970 Dodge 4wd truck, the way it was when I acquired it.

I guess I should have checked your location before replying. While dealing with suppliers in the US is possible, I’m sure it puts a premium on cost. I really don’t know who in the EU performs the same service as Bruce Johnson, acquiring old high quality tools, refinishing, sharpening and reselling at what I consider very reasonable prices.

Try Bruce Johnson. He has inventory that is not listed on his site. I believe Bob Douglas has sold his old tool inventory to Bo Hargrave in Texas. If you buy new Osborne tools, expect them to be dull right out of the box, and have little attention paid to surface finish. About a year ago, I ordered a half-dozen new Osborne #147 punches through a local dealer, just to see what would show up. Tools arrived as I described above, plus they were shipped loose in a cardboard box, no attempt at packaging. They all needed sharpening anyway, so maybe it didn’t make any difference in the end.

Three-phase motors cannot, will not, start themselves without something on the third leg. A static converter is just a capacitor that applies a voltage on L3 that is phase-shifted enough to get the motor started. It doesn’t really contribute much to the output of the motor, hence the de-rating in output. As you likely already know, any single-phase on-board accessories must be connected to the terminals fed from line voltage, not the one fed from the capacitor.

A round hole in an anvil is a pritchell hole, and is intended for punching. The square hole is the hardy, and is intended to support tooling. Good records of how anvils were made don’t exist, but the hardy hole and the handling holes on the base of my Peter Wright were probably punched while the anvil was being forged. On an ASO, the hole is probably cast. I’m strictly a hobby machinist, but if I had to do a square hole like that, I’d probably drill (or bore) to the diameter, use an end mill to approach the corners and finish it on my die filer. You probably could cut a hardy hole on a shaper, but supporting the work would be a PITA. As I have heard from real machinists, you can make anything on a shaper, except money.

Bob Douglas has supplied tools to the leather industry and saddle makers in particular, for many years. His tools are beautifully made and sharp right out of the box. He and his wife Lee run a small business with no website or web based sales and while Lee will answer emails, sooner or later your going to have to pick up the phone and call if you want to place an order. Great people to deal with. ‭(307) 737-2222‬ dsctools@rangeweb.net

Bob Douglas makes very high quality edgers, and he’s based in Wyoming.

That should work fine. I’m currently using a 5 HP RPC to run the 3-horse motor on my milling machine.

Phase-a-Matic does offer some guidelines on matching RPC size to motor type on their website. This may be of use to you only in a general way, as you cannot possibly power up the machine and measure the current at full hydraulic load. Their recommendation for most motor loads, including those driving hydraulic pumps, is that the RPC be sized larger than the driven motor. This follows industry practice as I have seen it, where the minimum you would size the source for a motor is 125%, to account for starting and overload. It’s always better to have some margin in the system, things will run cooler and last longer.

Nice job restoring the #1. What’s the bottom of the ram set up for?

Is this worth repairing? LU 562s and similar are not difficult to find. You could go to the trouble to weld/braze it and the shafts could still bind.

I live in California, and unless you find a friendly dealer, the Angelus spirit dyes are not for sale to anyone here who is not a manufacturer. They work great if you can get ‘em.

No school system I would send my kids to.

Look into a rotary phase converter or VFD. This could be used as the power source for other machines as well.

My thoughts exactly. I’d hate to see a vintage machine in extraordinarily good condition get sold and used up in a production shop.

I’m afraid I’m a tool junkie and I would be inclined to keep it. Looks to be in unusually good shape, right down to the paint. In my area, I have only seen one go up for sale in the past 2-3 years, if I remember correctly the seller was asking around 800.00, and it was posted on CL for months.

I use an Osborne 147 style #6 oval. The sizes don’t seem to cross over to the 158 type. Don’t think they make them anymore, I got mine from Bruce Johnson.

I have always been disappointed in the sheer lack of interest on the part of promoters and vendors in setting up any kind of nuts and bolts type of leather shows out here. We are home to Burning Man, Maker Fair, combat robots, tattoo shows, gun shows, Ren Faire, Dickens Faire, endless cons and craft shows, Folsom St fair, an endless variety of stuff, and a population with a big disposable income. But no leather shows that aren’t actually art installations. I’d be happy if anyone could correct me.

Looks like mine. Fixed foot. It does look like the parts for the roller guide are there.