Bob

I'd be interested, if nothing is broken and the blade is good.

By not allowing the slaughter and shipping of horse meat over seas has done this nation a great dis-service. It's done more harm than anything. I've worked as a farrier for the best part of 25 years, seen alot of horses that should be shipped and other wise useless for anything. What are people going to do with these kind of horses? At one time, they brought as much as 1$ pound for live horses. This whole thing is crazy, lots of folks have horses they can't afford to feed and starve because of it. Whats the sense in that? Someone posted earlier that horses are being turned out on the road for law enforcement to deal with. Unwanted horses... The only bright light in this whole picture is that Canada does allow shipping and slaughter of horses for meat. The shortage for supply and demand will only serve to drive up the prices paid over seas. So ship your unwanted horses to Canada, they have a slaughter house in Fort Mcloud, Alberta. not sure of the spelling on that town. I think the tree huggers and bleeding hearts have pushed things too far left. Thats my two bits worth.

16 inch Wade tree 5 inch stock gullet height 7.5 inch front flare, 13 inch cantle 12.5 inch x 4 high, 1 inch dish horn, wood post 3 .25 high 4 inch cap 16 Association 4 inch stock gullet height 7.5 inch front flare 1.75 inch cantle 13 inch x 4 inch x 1 inch dish horn, 3.5 inch high, 2.5 inch cap. dally horn

I have these two trees for sale if anyone's interested. The price is 450 plus postage. PM me if interested. I can send photo's by email.

Ray, my shop is not that big, 18x20 feet. All the space is required. We did have a wood stove for a couple years and it was good. But it toke up so much space.... I got an electric heater that hangs from the ceiling. Runs on 220 volts, has a fan built in, with a thermostat. Works great, takes up no floor space and it's clean. Doesn't make alot of noise. always keeps the place warm. I hardly noticed it on the heating bill.

I forgot to tell you how to use this thing, it's easy. Use the wrap itself, put two or three wraps around the end of the handle and walk around the horn, holding the leather in your other hand. If you have a good drawn stand, you shouldn't have any problems. If not, get some help to hold the saddle down. Failing that, use the handle to beat the help and throw it in the corner and follow the advice shown above. LOL hope it works, for the helpers sake... PS, it works awesome for me. but my saddle stand doesn't move much. Besides your only gonna be out 5 dollars for a handle. There's always a learning curve when making saddles. OH by the way. depending on the direction your going with the wrap, (up the horn or down) try changing directions of the wrap around the end of the wooden pole, it will help you a lot to lay the leather where you want it....

tim, if you head down to the hardware store and get yourself about a 30" replacement maul handle, and use that to get your leather tight. It works wonders. You will not require a chinaman anymore.

Lorrso, that is some fine hand work. I must say very nice workmanship. Can't wait to see more of you work posted here. Thanks for sharing.

LMAO.......

JW, nice clean workmanship.

you may want to post a picture of your ground work. The shape maybe OK, but you may not have cut a hand hole yet and or stirrup leather slots. Those take alot of care to do correctly. Then cover the edge of the hand hole

Alan Bell, the saddle looks nice from a distance. The lines look good from here, but only you can see the close up hand work that goes into a hand made saddle. Keep up the good work. It takes alot of work and practice to make a nice saddle. I don't think I've ever made a saddle that I was completely satisfied with. Saddle makers seem to be the most critical bunch. At least of their own work. It's a good thing to see others saddle work and to be exposed to their critiques and comments over your work. LOL, we don't always come away happy though. I also like the seat jockey lines. nice.

I thought first of Israel as in middle east. The only two countries that have US planes would be Israel or Britain, so far as I know. I know next to nothing about planes.

Steve, nice work. That tree looks nice. Do you make your own trees?

Jamie, it sure sounds like it does in deed have a speed reducer. That would be fantastic for making knife cases and small items. The only time you don't want a speed reducer is for long straight strips of sewing.

I'd be quite sure that the motor would be single speed. What else could it be? I've never seen a sewing machine with more than one speed. they all have a clutch motor that can be feathered, allowing you to control the speed.

I've been using arena board. It's a 4x8 sheet of white stuff that's hard doesn't wreck your knife. it's 1/4 inch thick, it's cheap to buy, I got a new sheet the other day from the building supply store for 90 dollars. It's hard enough your knife doesn't dig into it, or drag up. The other name for it Puck board. The down side with using any plastic surfaces, once it's covered with cut lines from your knife and then you get it dirty, the dirt in the cracks will dull your knife. So wash your table once in awhile and sharpen your knife....

Jamie, this is easy. Assuming the 441 juki comes with a table and motor.... That would be my choice. The Japanese made awesome machines at that time. Just better parts and components. If it's working like he says it is, you shouldn't have to do anything with it. You can smooth off the feed dogs yourself with a file to work on your knife cases. Just so it don't leave tracks. I own one of the older Japanese 441 Juki's made 10-15 years ago and won't trade it nothing they're making today. Regardless of customer service. If your the least bit mechanical you can fix it yourself and get the manual from proleptic.net. Save yourself half the price, and get a better machine too. My humble oppion

Regis, the leather needle that Jim saddler is talking about lays a hole in the leather that looks like this.... //////////// except farther apart... the needle point in question is called LR point. the blade is angled on 45 degrees. Leaves a nice stitch. I hope this helps. I see what he's trying to explain and agree with his point of view. The bigger the needle, the less deflection also.

Nice shop Randy, well laid out and lots of space. Excellent lighting too... Nothing good ever comes easy.... enjoy the work space. You earned it..

Ian, those are two fine tools to have. With some imagination you do lots of things with those two items. Also a little practice maybe required too )

Here's the auction # 330338195504 I would never buy on of these, but it's still a good price for someone who wants on..

Nobearsyet, there maybe 100 saddle makers on this forum. Chances are very few do things exactly the same. Frank make a good suggestion. "Buy a book" that way you can follow ONE persons directions. Most all saddle makers start from the bottom and work up. Start with the ground seat put on the gullet block and put on the skirts cover the cantle back prepare your swell cover cover the horn when you get to that point, you'll see yourself how the remainder will go together.

Tmroper, I usually braid them together. The process is quite simple. It's best if you don't edge the jockeys at the top. use a compass and mark 3/4 inch from the edge where you going to lace. set the compass at 3/8 inch and mark where you want the holes to be use a #8 osborne punch , or 1/4 inch and punch holes cut lace 5/16 wide and 2oz thick, I use latigo, it stands up the best and don't stretch much You may need 7-8 feet the lace is started in the middle, equal parts on both sides, at the outside edge of the jockeys you have to use the end hole 3 times in the beginning the other holes are used twice the lace is weaved back and forth, over and under itself. once your finished, lay the piece upside down on the granite and tap with a large face hammer to flatten the laces. helpful hints use saddle soap on the latigo strings some guys bevel the edges, i don't. you don't want any spaces between the laces, be sure the use the hole spacing for that size lace. If i could find my camera this morning I'd post a picture for you. i learned this from another saddle maker and I'm not sure if it's in a book somewhere. Chances are it is. Hope this helps

Sorry folks, not trying to be difficult, it's just the links in the green box do not go anywhere.... Maybe it's cause i'm using firefox ... who knows. Sometimes these computer things cause more problems than they're worth.... Just the same, I'm sure they're just fine looking saddles and stuff. Like Crystal said....