Bob

Jake, here's another way of doing like you asked.

I built my own with barber chairs... I'll post pics for you can see... it works good

That looks so incredible fun, i have a grinn from ear to ear, just thinking about doing that....

I fail to see why you would put a doughnut filler in, except to make a domed horn more flat, other wise, whats the point? It would be much stronger with a complete filler that can be nailed though out. It just seems kinda pointless to make a large hole in the filler, and a complete waste of time, except to remove the dome that was put in the horn to begin with. Unless of course, I'm missing the whole point. I do however, like the idea of putting the wings on the bottom piece instead of the top one....

That was my first thoughts too. I hope nobody is offended with this. I agree, this is a mexican saddle with bars made from 2x6's. They may only fit a burro with a really flat back. There's lots of soar backed horses around on account of this kind of saddles. In my humble opinion, give it back to the person who sold it to you.

Mike, what works for me, could cause the next guy to cut off a finger. Soooo my advice is worth what it cost.... Just be careful, there's just nothing worse than trying to work with a dull splitter. After removing the blade, it's clamped onto the bench with the sharp edge over the side. I use a corner of the cutting table so the full lenght of the blade is exposed over the edge of the table. the angle of the blade is facing UP... Using the grit of stone you see best for the job. KEEP THE SAME ANGLE and push back and forth until the shiny finish disappears from the very edge, you may wish to have a magnify glass to see it. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE BOTTOM OF THE STONE YOUR USING. you could lose a finger tip. then progress to use a finer stone for the next step. depending if you have a polisher (grinder mounted felt wheel) I gently polish the edges, do not use alot of pressure as you could burn your cutting edge. ) defeating the whole purpose) I don't use anything of the bottom of the splitter blade (the flat side) not even to polish it... you don't want a bevel at all on the bottom. hope this helps

Wow, I found this thread real interesting and was learning lots, you guys completely ran it into the ditch...... shiny bum LOL

Troy, that's very nice workmanship.

Denise, that is a compression file, (like zip), windows doesn't have a program within it to deal with that one. Search the internet for a free program that can unbundle the files within it. I think Mac users use that compression program. Here's a link where you can get the program to unload it. http://www.pctools.com/partners/software/?...CFQ6jagodwTRJtg

Last spring in at the Sheridan leather show. While shopping in Sheridan leather outfitters, I found a silver ball point pen. Brought two home and love em'.... I use them on skirting mostly, if you have to move a line, you can rub it out with an eraser or a damp cloth washes it away.. leaving no sign at or traces at all... a pencil lines does erase, but leaves a mark. It works for me just fine...

Russ, that's an awesome idea. Have you thought how you might ad some lead weight to the inside for heavier punch work. You can wrap that handle in leather, making it more comfortable and easier to hold. Those pucks will never wear out. Fantastic thinking.

I case you haven't heard, Bob Douglas makes the best awl blades in the land. Yes Barry King's handles fit with Bob's awls no problems.... I use the slim blade awls that Douglas makes. You should buy extra's too.

By gully, it sounds like you've an interesting project in hand. Other than alot of heat, I don't know what would do that to leather. I'd sure like to see some pictures of before/after just to see how you gone about doing something like that. I figure is you had a round hand punch to use for cutting out and cutting in a new piece, like you said. Maybe the best way to deal with it and lining the back. Sorry I don't have any good ideas to suggest.

It's sure been dang cold around these parts. 4 inches snow and -15 F, plus the cold wind... Good thing we work inside with the stove going steady...

I likes the idea of throwing in the ditch and starting again.... loading it into the truck and heading for a gravel road, threatening to dump it sounds pretty good...

I agree with Art's comments. When the thread size changes, you should look first at the needle size too. Bob

That tool maybe used for trimming the cantle bindings on saddles.

I won't do that with my kids. That's just plain foolishness. You'd be much better off straping them into a packsack. One on the front and one on the back of your body. NOT TO THE HORSE!!!!!! Thats just dumb.

Thats an interesting problem you have there. I know ostrich necks are thin and loose in grain. The only thing I would consider is using the best glue technique possible. I use two light coats of contact cement and allow complete drying. Then sew closer to the edge, then use a bisenette edger to trim the edges back right next to the thread. One more note. when glueing the liner down to the ostrich. put the ostrich face down and glue the liner on from the top. Trim the ostrich off the liner after glueing. This should give you a nice clean edge for sewing. Try angleing your knife when trimming off the ostrich, cutting it back from the edge somewhat, that may help with sewing close to the edge. hope this helps you out.

Marlon, thanks very much for posting those pictures. Awesome. Bob

Yes, I would say so Tim. Note that both ends of the skirt are "Inskirt" and they likely used LIGHT leather too 10-12 oz. Interesting concept.

MadMax, it's common for us learning to hand stitch to break an awl or two in the beginning. If you should buy one of Bob's awl blades, you will very quickly learn how NOT to break one. Awl blades like most tools have their limitations, they all break sometime if not used correctly. I still have an osborne blade I got from tandy about 15 years ago, it gets well used too. I also bought a few of Bob Douglas blades and they're so nice. Unbelievable nice... There's a learning curve we all have to work thru working with hand tools. That curve will pass much quicker if you spend good money on quality tools....

I'm not convinced it's smoke you smell. Some leathers just stink, like the stuff from over seas. I've been to the store and saw some saddles made in India for example and you can smell them from twenty feet away. Short of wearing a mask, there's not much you can do about it.

Thats what I've been told too, so thats exactly what I do. It looks neat and clean, nothing sticking out.