zuludog

You might not need to know their actual value. Decide how much they are worth to you, then ask an insurance company if they will accept that. It's called an 'agreed value'

Surf & Search! Use both medieval and the old British spelling, mediaeval Google will just give the definitions of 'mediaeval' if you search for mediaeval leatherwork'. You have to click on the question to make it search for mediaeval leatherwork That way I found that York Archaeology has a PDF for Viking and Mediaeval leatherwork, but there are lots of other references Try searching for 'medieval reenactment'; karl robinson; Walsall Leather Museum

The holes should be small enough so that there is a certain amount of drag on the needles and the thread, but not so much that you have to use pliers all the time. Pulling the needles by hand about 95% to 100% of the time is about right You say you use a round awl?. If you can get one, but not two needles through a hole then changing to a diamond awl should be just about right. If you still need to use pliers then look at the relationship between the awl, the thread, and the needles When you get a diamond awl, don't get the 4-in-1 awl often seen, for example, in Tandy's listing. It's expensive and not very good. A single fixed awl will be better and cheaper I've tried Tandy's Craftool Pro Stitching Awl and it seems quite good

I've found the needle file & abrasive paper method I described works OK The small sharpening stones in the link also look OK I've never tried this, but if you want to use a stone you could search around a second hand stall for a cheap old, worn stone and break it up with a hammer. You'd be bound to get some suitably shaped pieces, and it would be cheaper than paying approx $10

Thanks for your replies; this is still on my 'to do' list, but now I know what to do 'leathertoolz' on YouTube has explained that the bevel should face the piece of leather that you want, and the flat side should face the waste or not needed leather I am right handed, so I will make the knife with the tang offset so that it is closest to my wrist, and the bevel facing outwards, towards my left

For some ideas, and something to think about, search Google and YouTube for; 'KIRIDASHI'

The blade probably has a narrow tang, with a tight fit; with or without glue. Hold the blade in a bench vice, padded so it doesn't mark the blade any more than it is already Tap off the handle using a length of wood as a drift, again, so it doesn't cause any more damage Try this before steaming, no point making any more work for yourself than needed When you've finished, clean out the hole and refit the blade using epoxy glue

Thanks for the reply and the link, but that would be too easy! These machines date from just before WW1 and we're trying to keep them as original as possible, so it has to be leather

Recently I have been restoring some vintage machinery, including fitting new drive belts The belts are about 4mm thick leather, joined by steel clips . Each clip requires a hole or slot in each end of the belt; with two clips per belt that's 4 holes altogether The holes need to be 1/4" X 1/2" or about 6mm X 12mm Apart from the fact that I couldn't find a slot punch or crew punch of the correct size, they are quite expensive. So instead I went to the secondhand tool stall in my local market and bought a 1/4" wood chisel for £2. It was a bit dirty with surface rust, but once I'd cleaned it, underneath there was an excellent old Sheffield steel chisel, which sharpened to a razor edge I marked out the size with a scratch awl, then cut the slot, with a piece of scrap wood for a backing The stall holder was charging the same price for all the chisels; £2, about $3, regardless of the width. It occurred to me that for the same price and a bit of work you could get a 1" / 25mm chisel, or possibly a bit wider and have a very good and cheap skiving knife

I visited the new Tandy store in Manchester UK yesterday, and I was impressed It is a new store, bright and well lit, in a new shopping area; Lime Square, Openshaw It was well stocked with just about all Tandy's products, and a lot of different types of leather, including some on offer. The staff were pleasant, friendly, and helpful, taking time to chat and demonstrate items. There is a drop - in practical session on Wednesday afternoons Well worth visiting if you get a chance I used to live in Openshaw; please don't judge my old home too harshly. Like many British (and American?) towns & cities it has become run down, but they are doing their best to improve it with new housing and industry

The plane was made by Draper, and is not the best available. The body was pressed steel with plastic fittings; cheap & nasty, and difficult to adjust However the blade is fairly good, and is quite sharp with a decent bevel; and that's after it's been kicking around in a toolbox for ages. I don't need to do any powered grinding, but I will sharpen it on stones and a strop. I'll also make the angle of the bevel a bit sharper/flatter; I can do that by hand on the stones I have already earmarked some beech wood for a handle I just wondered why the blade is often asymmetric - have a look at Japanese leather knives on YouTube

I've been looking at Japanese Leather Knives on Google, they look interesting. They all seem to be asymmetric, with the tang set off to one side of the blade, usually the right when the bevel is facing towards you; is there any reason for that? I have the blade from an old block plane, and I was thinking of turning it into a sort of Japanese style leather knife. Is there any reason why I should not make it symmetric?

Post a request on this forum, under 'Handmade and Custom'. Although it says British, there are many knife makers from the USA on it, and you might find someone who will make exactly what you want http://www.britishblades.com

Here are some things for you to search on Google. Even if the suppliers don't have exactly what you want it will give you some ideas, or if you contact them they might make something for you Because of Britain's old Imperial connections with India, riding breeches are often known as JODHPURS So, Search & Surf for Leather riding breeches Leather jodhpurs Motor cycle leathers Lederhosen Equestrian magazines - contact them their staff might know a supplier

I don't make dog leads myself, but I have a friend who does. He lets in some nylon webbing inside the fold over part or loop (is there a correct name for this?) and sews it back to the main part of the lead, so that the stitching is 4 layers - 2 of leather and 2 of nylon. The slot for the buckle prong is made with a sharp knife and then sealed or fused with a hot nail Remember when sewing straps to make two parallel rows down the edges of the strap, but not across it

There is now a Tandy Store in Openshaw, east Manchester. Besides all their usual items, they also have courses, including a free drop - in course on Wednesday afternoons. I haven't been there yet as I've only just found out, but I intend to visit soon That part of Manchester had become rather run - down (I know, I used to live there) but a new shopping area has been established to try to revitalise the area, with quite a few retailers. So you will find the Tandy store under their website http://www.lime - sq.co.uk This website covers several crafts & hobbies, like ceramics, painting & metalwork, and also has a section on leatherwork courses throughout Britain http://www.craftcourses.com Can't seem to get the link to Lime Square to work, you'll have to Google it yourself, or go to 'Tandy Manchester'

I've been looking at videos of Japanese leather knives on YouTube, and I'm partway through making one from a piece of industrial width (about 38mm) hacksaw blade I'd like to think that when it's finished, and gone through a thorough sharpening procedure it will be as good as most commercially available knives

I use a similar method, as described in Chris Taylor's book; Leatherwork - a practical guide Melt a block of beeswax with about 10% linseed oil. I use a small aluminium foil pie or cake container in a shallow amount of water in a frying pan, and let it simmer fot a couple of minutes. This mixture melts easily and is fairly safe & easy to handle. Then either carefully remove the foil container or let the whole setup cool When it's cool enough to handle, but still warm & soft just form it into the desired shape with your hands

As above; look through this forum and YouTube, especially videos by Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage Armitage does a video called How to Make a Simple Wallet, or something like that. A wallet, yes, but it is also a very good introduction to basic leatherwork Get a book on basic leatherwork, either buy or try your library. The one by Valerie Michael is often recommended Don't be tempted by Tandy's 4 - in - 1 awl. It is expensive and not very good. Separate round and harness awls are better, and almost half the price Start with a key fob. Depending on how far you want to go it can show you pattern making; marking out; cutting; saddle stitch; dyeing & staining; carving and tooling; edge bevelling; edge burnishing; skiving; and probably a couple of other techiques as well

Round knives are expensive and need practice. Here is a cheaper and easier suggestion You will need two knives The first will be a typical craft knife with disposeable blades. In Britain we often call them by the best known brand, a Stanley knife; I think they're called box cutters in the USA They're cheap enough new, but I got mine from a secondhand tool stall at my local market for £1, about $1-50. I cleaned it up, removed all the nicks and sanded the two mating faces truly flat so it grips the blades without them wobbling, and repainted it You can fit new blades as required, but it seems to cut better if you re - sharpen the blades with the usual fine stone, strop and so on; probably because the blade becomes polished and you reduce the shoulder of the bevel. In fact I cleaned up and re-sharpened the rusty old blades that were inside my knife, and they work wery well Use this knife only for cutting leather The second knife can be almost anything you like. Use it to cut string, open parcels, sharpen pencils and any other jobs. Its purpose in life is to make sure you use the first knife exclusively for cutting leather There is lots of information in this forum on sharpening, or search YouTube You should be able to make a strop yourself. Again, info on making & using will be on this forum and YouTube

I assume you're talking about a stitching chisel with diamond shaped cross-section prongs Use a flat needle file followed by wet & dry paper glued to a thin sliver of wood or stiff plastic or aluminium. Work your way through a couple of grades of grit; say 500 then 800, but anywhere around those will do Take your time and it can be better than new

GROMMIT Yes, I am the same person as Zuludog on British Blades

Welcome to the forum! I am sorry to hear about your strokes, but as I understand things, working & doing things will help to repair the damage I, too, make knives, but I live in a flat, so the only power tool I have is a bench top pillar drill. All my shaping & sanding is done by hand. I have to accept that the work I do will take longer, but nevertheless I enjoy the work I can do. You will probably have to work on the same principle Surf & Search on Google & YouTube for Drill Stands, including Dremel Workstation 220, these may help. You could rig up holders & adapters for tools, awls, stitching chisels, and so on. Plus you could use a mini drill like a Dremel, though there are, of course, other makes Proxxon do a range of small power tools; good quality, but priced accordingly I know a professional leatherworker who has no hesitation in using a Dremel if the leather is too thick for a hand awl Have a look at Dremel Workstation 220. That will hold the drill both vertically & horizontally, so you might also be able to use it for burnishing, sanding, and sharpening Best Wishes Zuludog

I've been Surfing on YouTube over the past couple of weeks as I'm thinking of making a kiridashi (a small Japanese knife), and I'm always interested in seeing any methods of sharpening I came across this video, using home made knives from old hacksaw blades, and they certainly look pretty good 'The Best Leather Cutting Knife' by Leathertoolz The guy obviously knows his stuff, and he's done lots of other videos, on Japanese leather knives, awls, sharpening, and various reviews of other leather tools

Have a look at this video on Youtube. He shows very clearly that he cuts off the point at the very tip of the awl blade to obtain the desired shape How to Sharpen a Leather Awl:Dixon Diamond Awl. Part 1 of 2 by Leathertoolz