zuludog

Remember that these are not definitive instructions. Rather they are ideas & suggestions & ideas to get you (and anyone else) thinking & planning & doodling about where to go, and what to do, and what to get You can very easily fall into the the trap - my favourite guitarist is more obscure than your favourite guitarist. My favourite whisky is more obscure or more expensive than yours; and so on 'Chance favours the prepared mind' Look out for any way of scrounging wood, shelving and so on. Put the word out - you might just hear of someone who is retiring from a lifetime of tailoring/car trimming/leatherwork/coachbuilding and would love for their tools & materials to go to a good home. If you're interested, my favourite malt is Talisker. My favourite ordinary (ie cheaper) whisky is Stewarts Cream of the Barley. My favourite guitarist is Michael Chapman - why isn't he better known?! Search for him on YouTube. Listen to 'Trains'; not so spectacular, but an absolute masterclass in playing a guitar. Also 'BBC4 Songwriters circle 2012' Ahhh... then you can go on & on... There are two things that a Scotsman takes naked. One of them is whisky

Monica, we have never met, and I don't suppose we ever will, yet I feel I know you. I must say that none of the patterned edges suited my style, though I can appreciate the work & quality that went into them. That's the thing about leatherwork, we are all different. I do hope no - one has come here with a blatant rip - of of your style & ideas. If they have, then I'm sorry for you, but that's the way of the world now, and we must all be aware of that But people will always appreciate the original & individually made items, I hope you can continue Best Wishes Zuludog

Here are a few assorted comments:- On the principle that what will do a lot will do a little, the stronger the better. You never know when you might want to add, say, a bench press or a stand for a large roll of cloth. In Britain there are companies and community projects that salvage, reclaim, and recycle timber, factory fittings, and so on Or search and ask around yourself for factories, workshops, warehouses, etc. that may be closing down, being demolished, or having a modernisation. Often the foreman will let you have the stuff for a token payment if you can haul it away yourself. Besides tables, don't forget racking, shelves, cupboards, tools, light fittings, stationery, office odds & ends, and just about anything else that's going for free! Before it gets cluttered paint your workshop in a bright glossy paint to reflect light and keep it easy to clean It is well worth checking and sanding all your work tables for rough edges, splinters, removing old tacks & nails. Something like that could spoil an expensive piece of work An example; my neighbour cleans in a local building society office; a couple of years ago they replaced their computer desks which had recessed tops to take the early large cathode screen monitors, and got new desks with the normal desktops for flat screens. I heard of this, and got one of the old desks. All I had to do was to find a new top. The result is a very strong steel framed desk with a stack of drawers for next to nothing. I only needed one, but they were throwing out 7 or 8 Another example I was in the town centre a few months ago. A men's tailors had been taken over by a larger chain, and they were completely rennovating & gutting the old shop. They had two skips outside and were dumping everything - shop fittings, fabric and finished goods samples; display stands; chairs & desks; tables; shop fittings; filing cabinets; even the kettles & toasters from the staff room! I could have taken everything and anything, it was a damn shame that it was all going to the tip. Moral; keep your eyes & ears open, and your wits about you. While you're at it see if you can get a couple of chairs with castors In Britain there are standard heights for desks & benches, but don't be afraid to modify them to suit yourself I know everything seems to be computerised now, but you will still need some sort of desk and/or filing cabinet for patterns, templates, sketches, notes, order book/day book, or just somewhere comfortable to sit down with a cup of tea! ( and somewhere to keep the bottle of Scotch) Fit the workshop with a decent lock & security If you're doing something like that it would be handy to have some sort of van; estate car; station wagon; or pickup truck This is a couple of edits later You have a lot of room for your workshop. Here are a couple of alternative layouts 1) A wide, say 4' bench along one wall to take the sewing machine and any other small machines & tools. Then a long table - 12 to 15 feet long about the same width, completely clear, for rolling out fabric and trying patterns 2) A 4' wide bench as in 1) but a narrower bench opposite to hold minor items of fabric and work; or even no shelf or bench. This would allow for a large central island or console bench to spread our fabric, full size patterns or mock - ups in paper or cheap fabric, old sheets or whatever; it is often called a 'laying out bench'. You could get access all around, and sketch & plan to your hearts content. You could also use this in discussions with your customers Look at you roof space; there may be room there to store plywood templates; odds & ends of fabric; a long steel bar for a straightedge; and so on Check with your insurance company They are usually very fussy about working from home.

Though I don't have a round knife I have been buying & using old & secondhand tools for car mechanics & leatherwork out of necessity. I keep seeing these sort of discussions, and my attitude is this - one man's patina is another man's dirt Bugger the sentimentality! Tools are meant to be used, so get them as clean and as sharp and as shiny as you can!

OK I've just experimented with methylated spirits, which is the British name for ethanol intended for hobby and camping stove use, and it works well. Thankyou.

What sort of solvent can I use to clean leather dye, please? I'm using Fiebings oil dye, and up till now I've applied it with a cotton bud or a dauber, and just discarded them when I'd finished Today I used a small paintbrush, and tried to clean it with paraffin/kerosene, but it's not touching it

I haven't bought any secondhand leather tools, but here's what I have done to save money I do all my leather cutting with a Stanley knife. I found a secondhand one that I cleaned up & repainted, so not only is it much cheaper than a round knife, it cost £1 instead of £4 for a new one. I resharpen the blades instead of replacing them; they seem to improve, probably because this reduces the angle & shoulder of the bevel I made a strop from scrap wood & leather. For a polishing compound I use Autosol car chrome polish that I already had. When this is used up I'll get something more solid like a block of jeweller's rouge or specialist compound I made an edge polisher/burnisher/slicker based on pictures on the Net, from a broken axe haft Got an old decorator's filling knife at a car boot sale for 50p It was battered & rusty but it was a good quality one with a forged blade. I re-shaped it, cleaned it up, and sharpened it. That is now my skiving knife. I am impressed that it takes an absolutely razor sharp edge I use the glass oven door off an old cooker to skive on Many towns have a market stall that deals in secondhand tools. They don't often have leatherworking tools, though I know one that does. You don't get if you don't ask. You should be able to get general tools, like an oilstone, a soft hammer, and so on. I've thought that an old carpenter's chisel, 1" or wider could make a skiving knife, but I haven't needed to try it I have the blade from an old broken block plane. One day I might turn it into a Japanese leather knife; they cut on the push stroke, the pull stroke, and are also used for skiving, but are simpler than a round knife. Search YouTube for 'japanese leather knife' In Britain things like home sewing, repairing, and mending are on the decline, so ask around friends & acquaintances, and at charity/thrift shops. You might just meet someone who has their Grandfather's old tools stashed away in the loft, just waiting till they hear of a good home for them.

My Dad was a carpenter and I inherited his oilstones; one medium, one fine. No idea what grit size or make they are, but they do the job. They're OK for woodworking tools but for leatherworking tools I also use a homemade strop, made from scrap wood and leather. I use Autosol car chrome polishing paste on the strop, but when it is used up I'll look for something more solid like a block of jeweller's rouge or a specialist buffing compound I cut my leather with a Stanley knife. I've found one with a comfortable handle and a few blades that fit well without wobbling. I resharpen the blades on variations of the two stones and strop as required The cutting seems to improve as the blades are resharpened, probably because it reduces the shoulder of the bevel, and stropping produces a polish that is higher than the original blades

Not wishing to be big-headed, but I've posted an description of chisels which I think clarifies the names & confusion I'm afraid I'm not so clever with computers and don't know how to post a link, but here's the reference Forum Critique My Work Thread First Ever Piece of Leatherwork Started 10 september by Stefandz

How decadent can you get?!

Go to a few garages and ask them if they have a small sandblasting cabinet, often called a spot blaster. It is used for cleaning corrosion off small components and spark plugs Shot - or bead - blasting is similar Obviously try it on a not so important tool first

Need to practice?! Hell! That looks pretty good to me! And even if it was full of mistakes your mother would love it because her son made it for her

kjcreamer - there are loads of videos, & previous threads about sharpening on this forum and YouTube, just work your way through them IMO one of the best is this video on YouTube 'preparing and sharpening a woodworking chisel' by Paul Sellers Although it's on chisels, the techniques can easily be used on leatherwork tools Also good is lb knives video on sharpening an edge beveller By all means get oil-; water-; or diamond - stones but beware that you may well end up spending some serious money. Ask around, you may already have something knocking about within your family A cheaper method is to tape down some wet & dry paper onto a glass sheet or marble slab or similar. I use the glass oven door salvaged from an old cooker. The paper won't last for ever but it will be good enough to start with. Put a wet rag under the glass to stop the whole affair sliding around You can make your own strop from almost any piece of scrap wood & leather. Again there are threads & videos. For a polishing compound you can use Autosol car polish, chromium dioxide compound, jeweller's rouge or fine valve grinding paste This video on YouTube is useful. Again, it's not specifically about leatherwork tools, but the techniques and information are good 'sharpening spoon knives' by rebelbodger

Well. DoubleC, I hope I'm not guilty of your criticism I tried to point out in my post that I haven't had the time or experience to learn how to use a round knife, nor the money to buy one, so for the work that I do a Stanley knife is good enough; though I try to use it as well as I can A round knife is a better all-round tool, but trickier to use, and I respect anyone who can master it, or is trying to. If that didn't come across very well, and if I've offended anyone, I apologise I try to help anyone with what knowledge and experience I've picked up, but I admit that I tend to drone on a bit.

I don't do much to the inside of my sheaths apart from removing any stray fibres before I sew it together Then I treat the whole sheath, inside and out with leather oil or grease. I use an old toothbrush to apply the oil to the inside I reckon the action of using the knife, putting it in & out, will form and polish the inside where it needs it You might like this website; they have a forum on sheaths & leatherwork http://www.britishblades.com

Yes, I forgot about the stitching. All leather will stretch to some extent, though obviously thicker leather will be less susceptible to that That's why leather belts often have a line of stitching down each edge, even if there's just the one thickness - it's not just decorative, leather stretches, but the thread does not So both the lining plus the lines of stitching will help to prevent stretching You don't say what thickness your existing belly leather is. You could try using two layers/thicknesses; that, plus the stitching might be good enough If nothing else, you'll get more practice, and see what can and can't be done; it's all useful experience. Allow for the curvature or radius as mentioned by Impulse

I have thought of making a dog's collar using leather lined with nylon webbing, as used for rucsacs and other luggage. I would take a strip of relatively thin leather, say 1.5 to 2mm, and sew it onto the webbing using a saddle stitch down each side, thus producing a laminate which looks like leather but most of the strength comes from the webbing. I would punch holes for the buckle prong as usual, then carefully heat seal the webbing with a piece of stiff wire heated in a camping stove flame. Or perhaps seal the holes in the leather and webbing together with an eyelet. But that's all it is at the moment, an idea. Perhaps someone will find it useful.

Have a look at this video on YouTube. 'How to sharpen an edge beveller' by lb custom knives

Hopefully without adding too much confusion, Japanese leather knives are interesting. They cut by pushing or pulling, and are also used for skiving, but are simpler than a round knife. I have an old block plane blade, and one day I might get round to turning it into a Japanese style leather knife Put 'japanese leather knife' into YouTube's search box.

I do leatherwork as a hobby and I'm happy enough with a Stanley knife, though I re-sharpen the blades with a fine oilstone and a strop. This reduces the shoulder of the bevel and polishes the blade so tit seems to pass through the leather more smoothly I don't use a round knife because the Stanley is good enough; I haven't been able to get in enough practice with a round knife; and a good one is expensive. I also have a home - made skiving knife and a couple of other knives As mentioned above, a round knife will do just about everything you need with leatherwork. It also used mostly to cut away from you so once you've mastered it, it is safer I have watched firsthand on a couple of occasions a round knife being used by a professional saddlemaker or leatherworker, and it is absolutely magic. The knife seems to just float around, like an extension of their hands with no effort or mistakes But you have to be a professional or a very keen amateur to get to that level, and I don't have the time or the patience, so I reckon I've worked up well enough on the Stanley If you search YouTube there are several videos on the round knife Look at the way a head knife cuts. A Stanley knife is used at quite a steep angle, and is quite aggressive, such that only the end few millimetres of the blade actually do the cutting. A round knife means that for most of the time the blade cuts along a longer length of the blade edge, and so has a smoother action; you just angle the blade so it cuts more towards the tips for tighter curves, but only when needed. An expert can do all this with an even flowing movement For this reason I try to keep the handle of my Stanley knife low where possible, which gives me an easier cutting action.

I've never seen a round chisel either, but you could contrive something yourself by marking the positions with a pricking iron or an overstitch wheel and then making the actual holes with some sort of stubby round awl like an old dart head or a cut down scratch/round awl.

I have watched Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage, but I hadn't heard of Arthur Porter till now. I've had a short browse through some of his videos and they seem good. I will watch them properly in the near future While I was searching for advice on sharpening I found 'Preparing and sharpening a woodworking chisel' by Paul Sellers. That was useful and interesting, and the techniques can be applied to leather tools Since then I've watched just about all of his videos, which are mostly on woodworking with hand tools. I don't do woodworking, but they are pleasant, relaxing, with a simple but clear style, and there is the sheer joy of watching an expert craftsman at work. And Oh, he's another Brit, this time with a Manchester accent Put 'Paul Sellers woodworking' into YouTube's search box and see what you think

I cleared off the top of a wardrobe and lay the leather flat on there. There is a certain amount of drooping over the edge, but nothing desperate A common way I have seen at suppliers is to tie the leather in a loose roll Whatever method you choose, be careful not to leave it in direct sunlight for a while as that will produce areas of bleaching or other colour changes. Easiest way to prevent this is to just cover it with an old sheet

I'm British, and don't know much about guns or holsters, but I've just searched Google for 'female shoulder holsters' and 'shoulder holsters for women'. Don't seem to be any patterns but there are quite a few references and discussions for you to work through for ideas

No, pricking irons won't go all the way through. They are used to make shallow marks or indentations to show the position of the stitching holes, which are then made with an awl A stitching chisel has longer prongs and can be knocked all the way through. Even so, you might have to do a bit of extra work with an awl. The awls used for hand sewing leather are usually called saddler's awls or harness awls