zuludog

Surf YouTube for 'setting snaps and rivets', there are several videos. The one by springfield Leather seems pretty good

Whereabouts in Yorkshire? If you can restore musical instruments you should be practical enough to make some of your own tools - a strop; an edge slicker/burnisher/creaser; a sewing pony. Copy the designs from pictures in craft books, catalogues, or websites. Or even make some of your pwn knives from odds & ends or adapting other tools This company is Tandy's agent in UK and they are quite helpful & pleasant if you phone them for advice. They also have some of their own, non-Tandy goods http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk Surf for bookbinding suppliers; I think some of their products & techniques could well apply to musical instruments

As a temporary measure, a damp cloth underneath will prevent the slab from sliding around, till you find something better. Something like an old towel or two layers of T shirt material

Sharpen with a couple of needle files and some fine wet & dry paper glued onto a sliver of wood like a lollipop stick

Have a look at these two companies http://www.ernestwright.co.uk http://www.whiteley.co.uk I posted a thread about these on 11 Nov '15 under this section Yes, I know you're in the USA and they're in Britain, but they do mail order

OK, thanks. Looks like I was mistaken, and as you have described, there are two types of wheel My apologies and I hope this confusion doesn't go any further

There are three tools that look similar, but cause confusion; at least they did to me when I started. Here is my explanation. A PRICKING IRON has a row of short prongs. It is used to mark the position & spacing of stitching holes by tapping onto the leather with moderate force. This will leave shallow holes or marks, but to make the holes all the way through the leather you must follow up with a saddler's awl. It is used for sewing leather with thread A STITCHING CHISEL has long, narrow prongs that have a diamond shaped cross section and are set at an angle to the main body of the chisel. They both mark the position & spacing of stitching holes, and make the holes themselves by knocking the prongs all the way through the leather. Often this is enough, but you will have to complete the holes with a saddler's awl if the prongs are shorter than the combined thickness of the leather. It is used for sewing leather with thread. A LACING CHISEL has long prongs that are broader and have a flat cross section, and are set flat in line with the main body of the chisel. It is used to both mark the position & spacing of the holes, and to make the holes all the way through It is used for sewing leather with laces or thongs. For all three types there are variations in the number of prongs, and the distance between them, which in turn sets the stitch length They can usually be improved by careful sharpening & polishing with a needle file and fine abrasive paper There is another tool for marking the position & spacing of stitching holes. It is a wheel set on a handle, and has short teeth or prongs around the rim. By rolling it along the surface of the leather it will leave a row of marks or shallow holes, but the holes themselves must be made by following up with a saddler's awl. You can get different wheels to set different stitch lengths It is used for sewing leather with thread, and is called a STITCH MARKING WHEEL or an OVERSTITCH WHEEL Be careful as some suppliers use the term 'pricking iron' and 'stitching chisel' when they mean the other thing Be sure what you're asking for, and try to see an illustration before you buy

Pricking irons have short prongs that just mark the positon for a hole, but you make the hole all the way through by following up with a saddler's awl Stitching chisels have longer prongs, and are intended to be knocked all the way through the leather. Often this is enough, but If the combiined thickness of the leather is more than the length of the prongs, then you must finish the job with a saddler's awl

I use both ready waxed thread, and unwaxed thread and wax it just before use. Then I re- wax as required when I'm stitching. Obviously the longer the stitching the more likely you will need to re-wax Yes, get some beeswax, it's not expensive. Besides waxing thread it has vatious uses in leatherwork, including lubricating stitching chisels & awls Wax is not soluble in alcohol, so in theory it will not be removed by wiping a finished article with alcohol. But in practice there will not be a full, even coating of wax on the thread so there will be a fair amount of accumulation or adherence of a stain on and around the thread and the line of stiching. This will wear off slightly as the item is used, and depending on your point of view it can produce a satisfying mature or mellow appearance. The only way to avoid this is to do all your staining before sewing.

Similar thoughts to terrymac. Try this sequence of ideas---- Just use your chisel as a pricking iron, ie marking the positions of the stitches by tapping the chisel with moderate force, just enough to make the marks or depressions Then make the holes themselves with a saddler's awl; make sure it is sharp! If the resulting holes are OK then the problem lies with blunt prongs on your stitching chisel Sharpen the prongs with a needle file and a small polishing pad made by glueing some fine wet & dry paper onto a sliver of wood, like a lollipop stick Lubricate the prongs by stroking them on a block of beeswax before use You need a surface that is quite firm, but not so hard that it will blunt the prongs I use an HDPE kitchen chopping board If this doesn't work then I'm afraid you'll have to try other advice. As a temporary measure you could try burnishing down the bumps/blisters with the back of a spoon or a rounded plastic screwdriver handle if you don't have a burnisher Have a look at this video on YouTube 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Leodis Leather It's a bit long, but covers just about everything At about 1:04:50 he shows using beeswax on a stitching chisel In fact there's a lot of advice on YouTube, especially by Nigel Armitage and Leodis Leather. Armitage has a video on making a simple wallet (forgotten the exact title) It shows several basic techniques

Sell....sell?! Who said anything about buying it?! I'm sure that once you've tidied it up and practiced a bit you'll produce some good work Best Wishes Zuludog

You pierce twisted thread same as braided thread. Wax before or after, whatever you've got or suits you This company has some tutorials, including threading a needle. Look towards the top right of their homepage http://www.bowstock.co.uk

To use this type of saddler's clam you sit on a stool or chair and hold the clam between your knees I can't quite tell from the picture, but you should pad or line the end of the jaws with leather to avoid marking your workpiece and also to provide more friction If it does not grip sufficiently tightly you can fit a nut & bolt through the arms, only as tight as is necessary to provide a grip; but try to manage without. Or you could use a stap and foot loop This video on YouTube shows how to make one. It doesn't show how to use it, but it is useful background 'Making a Traditional Saddler's Clam' by Harry Rogers This video shows a clam in use 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Leather Courses Britain You should have already marked yor leather with a pricking iron or stitching chisel This website shows a saddler's clam in use http://saddlerycourses.com click on 'tools for sale' If you can't use it, I'll have it!

Well, my DMT stones arrived early this morning I've tried them with a couple of 4" vegetable knives, and they do the job; not been stropped though as they are sharp enough for fruit & veg without. I was told they would become finer as they were used, but they seem to have become quite smooth. I think I'll be able to go from extra fine to the strop without any problems In fact, I was thinking of getting an extra coarse for the initial sharpening of my oilstone sharpened tools when transferring to a diamond stone The lttle rubber feet aren't tto bad, but they don't give much clearance for your fingers, so I'll probably get the bench base

Thanks for your advice and comments I have a friend who runs a small woodworking company and he reckons the Tormek system is excellent; but I live in a flat and there's a limit to how far I can turn it into a workshop! I think I'll keep things as they are for the moment. I'll see how I go with the DMI stones first. I can always add a couple of finer DMT or ceramic stones as I have hinted My strop is made from a piece of scrap split leather and uses Autosol as a polishing compound It would be easy and cheap enough to make another strop with better leather and a proper honing compound from someone like Veritas

The problem with a question like this is that you can go round & round for ages, but eventually you have to settle on something Normally I would wait a few days to see all the replies then mull things over for a week or so However, I've seen an offer for DMT diamond stones, and as they are one of my favourite options anyway I've ordered them quickly in case I miss the offer http://www.dm-tools.co.uk They have are selling a DMT Diamond Whetstone, 6" x 2"/150mm x 50mm, including a leather pouch, for £32-95. The usual retail price in the UK is around £40, without a pouch. I have ordered 325, 600, and 1200 grit - coarse, fine, and extra fine I'll see how I go with these, and if I find I need something between the 1200 grit and the strop, DMT have an 8000 grit stone, though it is not on offer as above I'm surprised that DMT do not have a stone about 3000 to 4000 grit There are, of course, other makes available, and I've seen a 4000 grit, no soak/splash & go, Japanese waterstone for a reasonable price, about £25 I have also ordered a honing guide Perhaps I was a bit lazy using the term 'clicker knife'. I actually use a Stanley knife and resharpen the disposable blades; so they have a straight edge My apologies if this has caused anyone extra work

My sharpening stones are a couple of old oilstones that are family heirlooms, then I go to a strop. The stones are quite worn, especially the medium-fine one, and I'm thinking of replacing them with water or diamond stones I've had a look at these makes; size for size and grit for grit they all seem as though they'd do the same sort of job, and for a similar price. Is there anything to choose between them? EZE Lap; DMT; Shapton The tools are clicker knife, skiving knife; awl, a small woodworking plane, woodworking chisels, camping knives, and kitchen knives.

You can get various skiving knives; I have sometimes thought that a broad woodworking chisel would be a cheaper alternative, especially as you can pick them up cheaply at secondhand stalls Yes, search YouTube for 'japanese leather knife', there are a couple of good videos. You will also see that the key to these knives and skiving knives is to get them razor sharp. The usual technique is an oil- water- or diamond stone and a strop. Again there are several videos. Whatever you get, make a simple slip cover, both to protect the blade edge from damage, and to protect your fingers & other things from the blade edge!

Recently people have been asking about a small clicker knife. Well, my computer has been playing up and I'm only now able to post I would think that a woodcarving knife would make a good small knife for finer leatherwork. They are smaller than a Stanley knife but not as delicate as a scalpel Have a look here to see the sort of things available http://www.occtools.com http://www.flexcut.com http://www.kirschen.de http://pfeiltools.com The websites list worldwide distributors. KIrschen and Pfeil have English translations of their websites; click on the tab top left on the home page Or just go Surfing! The knives are usually listed as 'chip carving knives' You would need to sort out your sharpening technique, usually oil- water- or diamond stones and a strop

Recently a few people have asked about left handed tools. Well, my computer has been playing up and I've only now been able to post again These companies both offer left handed scissors and shears. Whiteley includes left handed leather shears http://www.ernestwright.co.uk http://www.whiteley.co.uk They are both long established companies in Sheffield, UK, but ship worldwide. They stock right handed tools too! I hope American members will excuse me if they know this already, but Sheffield is the centre of the British steel industry. If you say that something is 'Made in Sheffield' it means you're getting traditional, good quality workmanship

Have a look at this website & forum http://www.britishblades.com You'll get an idea of the standard of work that can be done There are lots of knife makers there who would probably love to help you, with both repairing your existing knife, and making a new one Just put an apeal or request on the forum, under 'Custom and Handmade' Couple of minutes later - I can't get the link to work, so put 'britishblades.com' into Google directly

I have made my own skiving knife from an old decorator's filling knife. I got it from a car boot sale for 50p. It was a bit battered & rusty, but a good one with a forged blade I cleaned it up and cut the end of the blade at an angle with a hacksaw then sharpened it with files, oilstones, and a strop. It is now razor sharp Because the blade is thin there is just a slight bevel on each side and it can be used as a left or right skiving knife If not a car boot sale, many towns have a secondhand tool stall on the market

Google 'left handed shop' and there are several references. In particular there are https://www.leftyslefthanded.com in San Francisco and Florida, but they do mail order https://www.anythinglefthanded.co.uk They have an American supplier Although they might be a bit like overkill, you could consider aviation snips and tin snips, they look as though they could be ambidextrous

Think carefully about carrying a knife in a shoulder holster in Britain. It would almost certainly land yourself in serious trouble with the law.

Be careful with the description 'Sabatier knives' The term was established a long time ago before trade marks, registration and similar laws were established, so just about anyone can make a knife and call it a sabatier. In practice most manufacturers do the decent thing and produce good quality items as it is in all their interests to establish and maintain trust with the consumer, but this still allows quite a variation in quality Buying from a reputable French company helps, and price is a good guide. there is a list of approved or recognised manufacturers Look up 'Sabatier' in Google & Wikipedia for more information There are videos on choice, and restoration of old sabatier knives on YouTube