zuludog

Similar thoughts to terrymac. Try this sequence of ideas---- Just use your chisel as a pricking iron, ie marking the positions of the stitches by tapping the chisel with moderate force, just enough to make the marks or depressions Then make the holes themselves with a saddler's awl; make sure it is sharp! If the resulting holes are OK then the problem lies with blunt prongs on your stitching chisel Sharpen the prongs with a needle file and a small polishing pad made by glueing some fine wet & dry paper onto a sliver of wood, like a lollipop stick Lubricate the prongs by stroking them on a block of beeswax before use You need a surface that is quite firm, but not so hard that it will blunt the prongs I use an HDPE kitchen chopping board If this doesn't work then I'm afraid you'll have to try other advice. As a temporary measure you could try burnishing down the bumps/blisters with the back of a spoon or a rounded plastic screwdriver handle if you don't have a burnisher Have a look at this video on YouTube 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Leodis Leather It's a bit long, but covers just about everything At about 1:04:50 he shows using beeswax on a stitching chisel In fact there's a lot of advice on YouTube, especially by Nigel Armitage and Leodis Leather. Armitage has a video on making a simple wallet (forgotten the exact title) It shows several basic techniques

Sell....sell?! Who said anything about buying it?! I'm sure that once you've tidied it up and practiced a bit you'll produce some good work Best Wishes Zuludog

You pierce twisted thread same as braided thread. Wax before or after, whatever you've got or suits you This company has some tutorials, including threading a needle. Look towards the top right of their homepage http://www.bowstock.co.uk

To use this type of saddler's clam you sit on a stool or chair and hold the clam between your knees I can't quite tell from the picture, but you should pad or line the end of the jaws with leather to avoid marking your workpiece and also to provide more friction If it does not grip sufficiently tightly you can fit a nut & bolt through the arms, only as tight as is necessary to provide a grip; but try to manage without. Or you could use a stap and foot loop This video on YouTube shows how to make one. It doesn't show how to use it, but it is useful background 'Making a Traditional Saddler's Clam' by Harry Rogers This video shows a clam in use 'Hand Stitching Leather' by Leather Courses Britain You should have already marked yor leather with a pricking iron or stitching chisel This website shows a saddler's clam in use http://saddlerycourses.com click on 'tools for sale' If you can't use it, I'll have it!

Well, my DMT stones arrived early this morning I've tried them with a couple of 4" vegetable knives, and they do the job; not been stropped though as they are sharp enough for fruit & veg without. I was told they would become finer as they were used, but they seem to have become quite smooth. I think I'll be able to go from extra fine to the strop without any problems In fact, I was thinking of getting an extra coarse for the initial sharpening of my oilstone sharpened tools when transferring to a diamond stone The lttle rubber feet aren't tto bad, but they don't give much clearance for your fingers, so I'll probably get the bench base

Thanks for your advice and comments I have a friend who runs a small woodworking company and he reckons the Tormek system is excellent; but I live in a flat and there's a limit to how far I can turn it into a workshop! I think I'll keep things as they are for the moment. I'll see how I go with the DMI stones first. I can always add a couple of finer DMT or ceramic stones as I have hinted My strop is made from a piece of scrap split leather and uses Autosol as a polishing compound It would be easy and cheap enough to make another strop with better leather and a proper honing compound from someone like Veritas

The problem with a question like this is that you can go round & round for ages, but eventually you have to settle on something Normally I would wait a few days to see all the replies then mull things over for a week or so However, I've seen an offer for DMT diamond stones, and as they are one of my favourite options anyway I've ordered them quickly in case I miss the offer http://www.dm-tools.co.uk They have are selling a DMT Diamond Whetstone, 6" x 2"/150mm x 50mm, including a leather pouch, for £32-95. The usual retail price in the UK is around £40, without a pouch. I have ordered 325, 600, and 1200 grit - coarse, fine, and extra fine I'll see how I go with these, and if I find I need something between the 1200 grit and the strop, DMT have an 8000 grit stone, though it is not on offer as above I'm surprised that DMT do not have a stone about 3000 to 4000 grit There are, of course, other makes available, and I've seen a 4000 grit, no soak/splash & go, Japanese waterstone for a reasonable price, about £25 I have also ordered a honing guide Perhaps I was a bit lazy using the term 'clicker knife'. I actually use a Stanley knife and resharpen the disposable blades; so they have a straight edge My apologies if this has caused anyone extra work

My sharpening stones are a couple of old oilstones that are family heirlooms, then I go to a strop. The stones are quite worn, especially the medium-fine one, and I'm thinking of replacing them with water or diamond stones I've had a look at these makes; size for size and grit for grit they all seem as though they'd do the same sort of job, and for a similar price. Is there anything to choose between them? EZE Lap; DMT; Shapton The tools are clicker knife, skiving knife; awl, a small woodworking plane, woodworking chisels, camping knives, and kitchen knives.

You can get various skiving knives; I have sometimes thought that a broad woodworking chisel would be a cheaper alternative, especially as you can pick them up cheaply at secondhand stalls Yes, search YouTube for 'japanese leather knife', there are a couple of good videos. You will also see that the key to these knives and skiving knives is to get them razor sharp. The usual technique is an oil- water- or diamond stone and a strop. Again there are several videos. Whatever you get, make a simple slip cover, both to protect the blade edge from damage, and to protect your fingers & other things from the blade edge!

Recently people have been asking about a small clicker knife. Well, my computer has been playing up and I'm only now able to post I would think that a woodcarving knife would make a good small knife for finer leatherwork. They are smaller than a Stanley knife but not as delicate as a scalpel Have a look here to see the sort of things available http://www.occtools.com http://www.flexcut.com http://www.kirschen.de http://pfeiltools.com The websites list worldwide distributors. KIrschen and Pfeil have English translations of their websites; click on the tab top left on the home page Or just go Surfing! The knives are usually listed as 'chip carving knives' You would need to sort out your sharpening technique, usually oil- water- or diamond stones and a strop

Recently a few people have asked about left handed tools. Well, my computer has been playing up and I've only now been able to post again These companies both offer left handed scissors and shears. Whiteley includes left handed leather shears http://www.ernestwright.co.uk http://www.whiteley.co.uk They are both long established companies in Sheffield, UK, but ship worldwide. They stock right handed tools too! I hope American members will excuse me if they know this already, but Sheffield is the centre of the British steel industry. If you say that something is 'Made in Sheffield' it means you're getting traditional, good quality workmanship

Have a look at this website & forum http://www.britishblades.com You'll get an idea of the standard of work that can be done There are lots of knife makers there who would probably love to help you, with both repairing your existing knife, and making a new one Just put an apeal or request on the forum, under 'Custom and Handmade' Couple of minutes later - I can't get the link to work, so put 'britishblades.com' into Google directly

I have made my own skiving knife from an old decorator's filling knife. I got it from a car boot sale for 50p. It was a bit battered & rusty, but a good one with a forged blade I cleaned it up and cut the end of the blade at an angle with a hacksaw then sharpened it with files, oilstones, and a strop. It is now razor sharp Because the blade is thin there is just a slight bevel on each side and it can be used as a left or right skiving knife If not a car boot sale, many towns have a secondhand tool stall on the market

Google 'left handed shop' and there are several references. In particular there are https://www.leftyslefthanded.com in San Francisco and Florida, but they do mail order https://www.anythinglefthanded.co.uk They have an American supplier Although they might be a bit like overkill, you could consider aviation snips and tin snips, they look as though they could be ambidextrous

Think carefully about carrying a knife in a shoulder holster in Britain. It would almost certainly land yourself in serious trouble with the law.

Be careful with the description 'Sabatier knives' The term was established a long time ago before trade marks, registration and similar laws were established, so just about anyone can make a knife and call it a sabatier. In practice most manufacturers do the decent thing and produce good quality items as it is in all their interests to establish and maintain trust with the consumer, but this still allows quite a variation in quality Buying from a reputable French company helps, and price is a good guide. there is a list of approved or recognised manufacturers Look up 'Sabatier' in Google & Wikipedia for more information There are videos on choice, and restoration of old sabatier knives on YouTube

Think carefully about trying to get too perfect a finish, or supplying professional outlets. Your selling point is that you make collars that are individual, handmade, custom and so on; people will like them because they look artisan made, but good quality, and be more willing to pay for a unique item. Once you try to compete with commercially manufactured products in both finish and quantity you may well find that; your enthusiasm & interest quickly disappears; you're tempted to buy expensive tools & machinery; you've committed yourself to a large order and what was reasonably interesting has become a task. You'll also find that you have to compete much more on price

Everyone who starts leatherwork is confused at first, so don't worry too much; you are not alone You will make mistakes, and whatever you buy, now and again you'll wish you'd got something else; all part of the fun! Work your way through old Threads in these sections; How Do I Do That; Getting Started; Leather Tools. That's where you'll find that almost all your questions have been asked and answered before Tandy is as good a place as any to start for tools. Don't spend a load of money to start with, just get them as you need them. However, Tandy's 4-in-1 awl isn't very good, and is expensive; you're better getting two simple fixed blade awls - saddler's and round/scratch Search 'Making leather wallets' on YouTube; there are lots of videos. They will all help you to get used to the jargon & techniques Especially good is 'How To Make A Simple Hand Made Wallet' by Armitage Leather. Besides the wallets it is also a good introduction to basic techniques In fact, search for 'Armitage Leather'. There are several videos on various tools & techniques, and it's generally accepted that they are some of the best A basic book of leathercraft will be useful, and will probably have a few simple projects including a wallet. Valerie Michael's is the most often suggested

TANNIN - Thanks for the advice on knife handles The knife I intend using as a clicker knife is a good quality Sabatier style chef's knife. 8"/19cm overall length, 3,75"/10cm blade length It has a full tang, so the easiest would be to bind or wrap the handle somehow. I think a combination of slightly damp wet forming and sewing on the leather should do the job If I remove the handle I'll have to carve a new one and pack out the overlap where the new scales are wider than the tang. That would be a bit of a fiddle, so binding or wrapping should be OK, as the handle is almost big enough as it is I followed the link, and it looks interesting. I'll try that next time I make a narrow tang knife

For a cutting mat get the usual green things. They're not very expensive so get the biggest you can manage. I was once chatting to a retired cobbler, who said that 'them green mats' are as good as anything he'd ever used Yes, you need a hard shiny surface for skiving. I use the glass oven door from an old cooker - free. Lay it on a piece of damp cloth to stop it sliding around. Even if the glass is dirty it will usually clean up well Keep your eyes & ears open, or ask at a scrapyard or kitchen fitters for some of the old stuff they've removed. You'll probably need a phillips screwdriver or a couple of Allen keys to take it off the hinges As mentioned, you can also use the glass for laying down wet & dry paper as part of your sharpening regime

As I've mentioned before, I mainly use a Stanley knife but re - sharpen the blades on an oilstone & strop, which I think improves them. I also have a 4" chef's knife, and as it 's carbon steel I no longer use it in the kitchen, but I'm gradually sharpening and re - shaping the blade slightly to use it as a clicker knife. Soon I'll probably bind the plastic handle in linen thread to get a better grip. If I feel keen I might remove the plastic handle altogether and fit a fatter wooden handle

I'm afraid that I don't know all the ins & outs of the whisky business; but there are a few brands owned by the large brewing & drinks companies that carve up the popular end of the business with their popular brands - Teachers; Bells, Johnnie Walker, White Horse and so on. Then you can work through the various names & brands, and prices, till you become quite confused. These will account for much of the market, each with their own niche and pecking order. Famous Grouse is one of them, though you need to be a real expert (or saddo!) to know what's what and who owns & supplies whom. All 'house whiskies', those ordered straight over the bar, will be blended whiskies. For a malt you would usually have to order it by name, and pay more Some of these popular brands that are just a bit higher than the absolute cheapest blended whiskies will have a certain amount of malt whisky in them, but they don't exactly broadcast the fact and you have to do a bit of homework to find them. On the other hand, a good blended whisky can be every bit as good as an average malt; that's the skill of the blender, but as with so many things, he is often forced to work to a price The whole area is an absolute minefield of confusion. You would really need to search the Net and devote a large part of your income and the health of your liver to find the answers. However, the Scotch whisky industry has very high standards of quality control, traceability, marketing, production standards, and the name/brands/image; and against any adulteration and abuse, This is reinforced by HMRC - the government's tax inspectors, on manufacturers/distillers, retailers, and consumers. We don't like paying the tax, but we appreciate and respect that it maintains the standards. You can be sure that anything labelled as Scotch Whisky will be (within its price range) pretty good **************************************************************** Picture a bleak, cold, misty Highland hillside in December. One of the ghillies had his ears exposed and they were a mixture of red raw & dead white. Someone asked him why he did not pull down the ear flaps of his hat " Ah dinnae use them; ah dinnae use them since the Great Disaster of '62". "Oh aye, Angus, and what was that?" " The Laird asked if we'd tak' a drop of the Macallan, and ah didnae hear him!" ************************************************************************ I have heard a Scottish gamekeeper state that a half bottle of whisky is "a highly inconvenient measure"..." for it is too much for one, but not enough for two". *************************************************************************** Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, so much of its activity is politics; administration; the Arts; and so on. It is also the headquarters of The Church of Scotland, which is a strict protestant church Glasgow is the other main city of Scotland and it is based on shipbuilding, engineering, and other heavy industries; Glaswegians have a reputation for serious, hard drinking. They say people have more fun at a Glaswegian funeral than an Edinburgh wedding *********************************************************************************** Hmm... Didn't we start off with a workshop? think I'd better finish u become

Remember that these are not definitive instructions. Rather they are ideas & suggestions & ideas to get you (and anyone else) thinking & planning & doodling about where to go, and what to do, and what to get You can very easily fall into the the trap - my favourite guitarist is more obscure than your favourite guitarist. My favourite whisky is more obscure or more expensive than yours; and so on 'Chance favours the prepared mind' Look out for any way of scrounging wood, shelving and so on. Put the word out - you might just hear of someone who is retiring from a lifetime of tailoring/car trimming/leatherwork/coachbuilding and would love for their tools & materials to go to a good home. If you're interested, my favourite malt is Talisker. My favourite ordinary (ie cheaper) whisky is Stewarts Cream of the Barley. My favourite guitarist is Michael Chapman - why isn't he better known?! Search for him on YouTube. Listen to 'Trains'; not so spectacular, but an absolute masterclass in playing a guitar. Also 'BBC4 Songwriters circle 2012' Ahhh... then you can go on & on... There are two things that a Scotsman takes naked. One of them is whisky

Monica, we have never met, and I don't suppose we ever will, yet I feel I know you. I must say that none of the patterned edges suited my style, though I can appreciate the work & quality that went into them. That's the thing about leatherwork, we are all different. I do hope no - one has come here with a blatant rip - of of your style & ideas. If they have, then I'm sorry for you, but that's the way of the world now, and we must all be aware of that But people will always appreciate the original & individually made items, I hope you can continue Best Wishes Zuludog

Here are a few assorted comments:- On the principle that what will do a lot will do a little, the stronger the better. You never know when you might want to add, say, a bench press or a stand for a large roll of cloth. In Britain there are companies and community projects that salvage, reclaim, and recycle timber, factory fittings, and so on Or search and ask around yourself for factories, workshops, warehouses, etc. that may be closing down, being demolished, or having a modernisation. Often the foreman will let you have the stuff for a token payment if you can haul it away yourself. Besides tables, don't forget racking, shelves, cupboards, tools, light fittings, stationery, office odds & ends, and just about anything else that's going for free! Before it gets cluttered paint your workshop in a bright glossy paint to reflect light and keep it easy to clean It is well worth checking and sanding all your work tables for rough edges, splinters, removing old tacks & nails. Something like that could spoil an expensive piece of work An example; my neighbour cleans in a local building society office; a couple of years ago they replaced their computer desks which had recessed tops to take the early large cathode screen monitors, and got new desks with the normal desktops for flat screens. I heard of this, and got one of the old desks. All I had to do was to find a new top. The result is a very strong steel framed desk with a stack of drawers for next to nothing. I only needed one, but they were throwing out 7 or 8 Another example I was in the town centre a few months ago. A men's tailors had been taken over by a larger chain, and they were completely rennovating & gutting the old shop. They had two skips outside and were dumping everything - shop fittings, fabric and finished goods samples; display stands; chairs & desks; tables; shop fittings; filing cabinets; even the kettles & toasters from the staff room! I could have taken everything and anything, it was a damn shame that it was all going to the tip. Moral; keep your eyes & ears open, and your wits about you. While you're at it see if you can get a couple of chairs with castors In Britain there are standard heights for desks & benches, but don't be afraid to modify them to suit yourself I know everything seems to be computerised now, but you will still need some sort of desk and/or filing cabinet for patterns, templates, sketches, notes, order book/day book, or just somewhere comfortable to sit down with a cup of tea! ( and somewhere to keep the bottle of Scotch) Fit the workshop with a decent lock & security If you're doing something like that it would be handy to have some sort of van; estate car; station wagon; or pickup truck This is a couple of edits later You have a lot of room for your workshop. Here are a couple of alternative layouts 1) A wide, say 4' bench along one wall to take the sewing machine and any other small machines & tools. Then a long table - 12 to 15 feet long about the same width, completely clear, for rolling out fabric and trying patterns 2) A 4' wide bench as in 1) but a narrower bench opposite to hold minor items of fabric and work; or even no shelf or bench. This would allow for a large central island or console bench to spread our fabric, full size patterns or mock - ups in paper or cheap fabric, old sheets or whatever; it is often called a 'laying out bench'. You could get access all around, and sketch & plan to your hearts content. You could also use this in discussions with your customers Look at you roof space; there may be room there to store plywood templates; odds & ends of fabric; a long steel bar for a straightedge; and so on Check with your insurance company They are usually very fussy about working from home.