zuludog

I've just read Hardrada's comments, and yes, you could be better using a stone that has a more continuous surface. A Japanese Water Stone is the common for this, but you could use others - I use oilstones, and don't forget the strop. A good cheap option is to use this - The full system is a bit expensive but the sample sheets are cheaper and just right for Japanese Leather Knives; but find your own sheet of glass or similar hard surface. This is a British supplier but you should be able to find a US supplier. Most abrasives are measured by the grit size, but these use microns, however it's easy enough to find a conversion on The Net Also Search YouTube for Haku Handmade Leatherworks. He has some good videos on sharpening & using a JLK; mostly in Japanese but with clear filming, diagrams, and English subtitles. Also Search YT generally for using, and sharpening JLKs http://www.workshopheaven.com/hand-tools/sharpening-tools/scary-sharpening.html

In the video about making the knife, at about 5min 35sec click on the link on the screen for 'Process of Making Handmade ...... Wallet'. For the first few minutes you see that type of knife in use; and the rest of the video is interesting and shows some techniques that are new to me, at least.

Thought you might like to see this - Making a Japanese style leather knife in Korea. In the West we call them Japanese Leather Knives, but I think they are used all across the Far East - China, Japan, Korea, and so on

It all depends on what you want to use it for. According to Leathertoolz videos, a Japanese Leather Knife (JLK) is intended mainly for cutting leather, with skiving being less important; for skiving he uses a simple flat length of steel with a chisel/single bevel at one end, and no handle. But in the West a JLK is used more for skiving So since you already have a JLK try using that just as it is, with right angled corners; if you find you have problems with it digging in, just round them off slightly yourself, but maybe not as much as the Chartermade shown by Tugadude. You can get a similar knife at a cheaper price from Rocky Mountains Leather Supply Vergez Blanchard - Skiving / Paring Knife - Straight – Rocky Mountain Leather Supply (rmleathersupply.com) Besides this knife you can get JLK s with a more fully rounded edge Here you see that Corter Leather manages to skive well enough using JLK s with 'sharp' corners ; and of course, you can hold the JLK at a slight angle so that the leading corner is clear of the leather When, Why, and How to Skive Leather by Hand - YouTube Search YT for using a JLK and see how people use it You can skive with the bevel up or down. If you eventually sharpen it so much that the handle prevents the blade from lying flat enough, you can flatten the handle slightly, but I think it will be a while before you need to do that This is another good video. Although it is mainly in Japanese, the video and the English sub titles make it clear enough, and he uses a JLK with sharp corners 【レザークラフト】HAKU流・革漉き術 / [Leather Craft] my leather skiving technique using a Japanese leather knife - YouTube So try skiving with sharp corners first, you can always round them later, but it's not so easy to put the steel back on!

Thanks FREDK. I thought there was a chart of leather uses on Tandy but I couldn't seem to find it, only the weight/thickness guide And TIBI, Fred's right, once you start you soon get used to what does what

You're right, we should select leather type & thickness for various items and projects. Search around on Google and YouTube for things like - Choosing leather thickness; choosing leather for projects; choosing leather for wallets; leather thickness and uses; and so on. I know that Corter Leather; Ian Atkinson ( who has a YT channel called Leodis Leather) and many others have videos on choosing leather. I have found this, but there will be others Unfortunately most of these guides are American and measure the thickness in ounces, but search around and you might find one that also uses millimetres, otherwise you'll just have to find a conversion chart between ounces & millimetres A Handy Guide to Leather Thickness & Weight - With a Chart (libertyleathergoods.com) I have found this which should help, but most of the video channels I listed earlier should have a video guide on leather thickness and use Leathercraft Guide - Leodis Leather (ianatkinson.net) And also this - as I mentioned, keep searching on Google and YouTube as there are several guides, and you might just find something that is what you want Leather Education — Tandy Leather, Inc. If you ask a leather supplier they might send you a selection of small samples their types & thicknesses of leather, known as swatches

The holes used for sewing leather are in fact slits or slots, the idea is that after you have finished sewing they close up around the thread and seal the hole. They also make the distinctive zig zag or sawtooth pattern to the stitching, which many people find attractive. You can use two types of awls for this - A diamond cross section <> , so the awl blade is like a very small dagger. It makes a slit that is wider in the middle, which gives room for the needle, then closes up A flat awl makes a slit that has flat sides, like a very small rectangle and some people think this gives a neater result than a diamond awl, but there's not much difference. But I suggest you start with a diamond awl, as it is slightly easier to use. You can round the edges of a flat awl so the edges are much thinner, like this () instead of [] and it is a compromise between the two; you can just try different ideas and see what you like Yes, it is much easier to have separate fixed blade awls than swapping between them. From your list choose a round awl blade and a diamond or flat awl blade. There's not much to choose between 2,0 and 2,5 mm; it depends on what sort of leather you will use mainly - a smaller awl for thinner leather Unfortunately, and probably for woodwork as well as leather tools, the only way to find out what you like is to buy & try! Beware! You often see a 4-in-1 awl listed by suppliers - do not get it as it is not very good quality, and is expensive - you can buy the two separate awls for about the same price, and they are easier than constantly swapping the blades around. A round awl is often used to enlarge the stitching holes for sewing, they will close up afterwards I haven't used Kemovan tools, but I hear they are good. I already have enough leatherworking tools, otherwise I would consider their edge beveller New Ver 3. Their diamond stitching chisels look good too, but I haven't heard anything about them

You will need an awl; there are two types - A round or scratch awl has a round cross section and is used to mark out a pattern on leather, and for general poking & prodding; they are cheap enough A saddler's or diamond awl. The blade has a diamond cross section, and is used to make the holes for sewing. You can buy separate handles/hafts and blades, and fit them together yourself, but it is easier to buy a handle & blade ready mounted; or to buy a handle fitted with a small chuck to take the blade. You will almost certainly need to sharpen & polish the blade yourself - see YT videos Even if you use stitching chisels a diamond awl is very useful, if only because the prongs on stitching chisels are only about 7mm long, so for thicker layers of leather you must start the holes with a chisel then complete them with an awl

I've just re-read your post; here are more comments - You don't need to turn wood to make a burnisher, it's easy to make a flat style from a piece of hardwood - even I can do it! Something like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154565090086?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=7101533165274578&mkcid=2&itemid=154565090086&targetid=4584826055637456&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412354546&mkgroupid=1299623041023876&rlsatarget=pla-4584826055637456&abcId=9300541&merchantid=87779&msclkid=8e41dde1674915871b86bfe1cf3673a3 Or any small piece of suitably shaped & polished wood, bone, or antler; you can also use tough cloth like canvas or denim. But if you are too busy to make one, buy something like this , but polish the wood with fine abrasive paper No, you don't need a machine to sew leather; in fact some people find that sewing leather by hand is relaxing For sewing, 0,6mm diameter thread will do most things, though for thin leather like wallets try 0,45mm diameter thread as well. For needles many people use John James Saddler's Harness Needles item code L3912; size 004 for thin thread and wallets; size 002 for thicker thread & leather like belts & bags, But be careful of the size description - make sure you get 002 and not 2/0. Contact www.jjneedles.com for a supplier, their customer service department is very helpful. As you probably know, you should hit steel tools like stitching chisels with a soft faced hammer, like wood, leather hide, or nylon You will need a cutting mat; get the biggest you can manage, probably from an art or craft shop You might find that some leather workers measure the thickness of leather by ounces; you can find an ounce - millimetre conversion chart on Google. Search for 'leather thickness chart' And you might also need to convert between inches and millimetres - 1 inch = 25,4 mm For skiving, consider a Japanese Skiving Knife or Search Google for 'skiving knife' there are a few different types. Also look at a Razor Plane. Skiving and Paring are two words for the same thing Leathertoolz has some useful videos; here's one on skiving - HOW TO CHOOSE SKIVING/PARING KNIFE - YouTube You have the right approach with buying good mid range/priced tools. Watch the videos, make a list, and come back to us for advice and comments before you buy Oh, and as you use hand tools for wood working, have a look at YouTube videos by Paul Sellers, he's very good

Hello TIBI - welcome to the Forum and to leather work! There is a lot of information and advice about leather work on YouTube, so much that you might not need to buy books, but if you do, these are good - The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical illustrated Source Book of Techniques and Projects by Valerie Michael Leathercraft: Traditional Handcrafted Leatherwork Skills and Projects by Nigel Armitage But as I mentioned, there are many videos on YouTube you can watch for free. Search YouTube for 'beginners tools for leatherwork', there are several. You will see that they are slightly different, reflecting the preferences of each leatherworker, but similar enough to see what is needed Watch videos on making the items that interest you to see how other people do things and what they use, Also videos on techniques, such as the saddle stitch, edge finishing, edge bevelling, and so on These channels are good - JH Leather..... Ian Atkinson ...... Nigel Armitage ..... Leathercraft Masterclass .... Harry Rogers ..... Corter Leather .... Geordie Leather You will soon realise that most leather items are made using the same tools & techniques - belts, wallets, bags & pouches, saddle stitch, edge finishing, and so on; so the more you watch of any leatherwork the more 'instant experience' you will gain. There are videos on making a stitching pony/ saddlers clam SPYROS has given good advice on tools, here are my comments - A round knife needs practice & experience to use well, plus they are expensive, and good ones are very expensive. Start with a Stanley/ box cutter/ utility knife; they are cheap and easy to use, and when you gain experience, you will have a better idea of what to get next. You can re-sharpen Stanley knife blades, and even new ones are better if you sharpen them on a fine stone & a strop. A head knife is similar to a round knife but has only one point, which makes it a bit cheaper and easier to use A Japanese Leather Knife, also called a Japanese Skiving Knife is good for skiving and straight cuts - there are videos on YouTube Search Google for 'leather craft suppliers Europe', there are several references. I have used www.buyleatheronline.com but there are others Vergez Blanchard and www.georgebarnsleyand sons.co.uk make good tools. Seiwa, Craft Sha, Kyoshin Elle are Japanese and make good, reasonably priced tools. Search Google for 'Etsy - japanese leather knives' ; 'Etsy - leather edge bevellers' and so on. There will be several suppliers Whatever knives you get you will need to sharpen them; you are probably familiar with that from your woodwork, but Search YouTube for sharpening particular leather tools. Make your own strop - it is one of the easiest pieces of leatherwork to do; again, there are several videos

I started with a stitch groover, but now I use wing dividers. The top layer of leather, on the grain side, is the best part of the leather, and as you go towards the lower, flesh side the leather is not as good. If you use a groover you remove the best & strongest part of the leather, and you make it thinner, so that means you're doing the stitching on a thin part of the worst leather The explanation for using a groover is that it sets the stitching below the surface, and so reduces wear on the stitching - but how often does the stitching really get worn?. If you use a divider, pull the stitching tight, and flatten it with a hammer or mallet, this will pull the stitching down so it lies pretty flat anyway - look closely and you'll see And synthetic thread is much less susceptible to wear. This justification for using dividers was explained to me by Nigel Armitage at one of his lectures, and is also on his Vimeo channel.. I've used dividers over a groover for 4 or 5 years now, and not had any problems or complaints. I notice that in YouTube videos dividers are becoming more common.

Today is the start of the Chinese New Year - The Year of the Tiger.... perhaps we should all go out and buy a roll of Ritza 25

Jo Heard of JH Leather is an expert at using a head knife, which is a round knife with one point, and this video shows her using hers for skiving, though admittedly she's using thicker leather than you intend to In fact all her videos are worth watching; they are clear and well made. She does techniques, tools, making items, often using her head knife, plus you get the added bonus of hearing a perfect middle class English accent. How to Raise Leather - Dog Collar Tutorial - YouTube The book that I got from the library and got me started on leatherwork was 'Leatherwork - A Practical Guide' by Chris Taylor. In it he commented that 'a French Edger is one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop'. But of course, you should keep your fingers behind the cutting edge of any tool I use oilstones and a strop to sharpen most of my knives, but for my Japanese leather knives I use this Scary Sharpening (workshopheaven.com) The full system is a bit expensive but the sample pack at about £10 is just right for the Japanese knives, just find your own sheet of glass or similar Most abrasive papers use the Grit size, but these use microns, but it's easy enough to find a conversion chart on t'Net See if you can find a Canadian distributor

Unfortunately you can go on and on ..... Search YT for skiving leather, there are loads of videos ..... there are three basic styles of hand skiving knife -- the Japanese leather knife aka Japanese skiving knife ... the English style paring knife, which has an angled cutting edge .... and the French style, which is a sort of hand held chisel, sometimes with a rounded cutting edge; Search YT and suppliers websites and you'll come across them all. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice. But for wallet edges you could .... also consider a French Edger ..... welcome to the fun! Needless to say, they all need to be absolutely razor sharp I don't use chrome tanned leather much, but I think it's more difficult to skive than veg tan ... and skiving 2oz leather would surely be very difficult and feather it down to nothing If you want to skive such thin leather, Search YT for 'skiving leather for bookbinding' as well

This might be useful When, Why, and How to Skive Leather by Hand - YouTube

Yes, I reckon that knocking an awl blade into a haft is a right fiddly job, and the last time I just couldn't get the thing straight so I drilled it and fitted it with epoxy glue I have 4 or 5 awls, they will keep me going for a while, but if I ever need another one I'll get one with a chuck, like an Osborne Palm Awl Haft 142 and a Saddler's Harness Awl blade #42 or 43 Or I might even treat myself to something exotic & expensive

Just a comment on JCUK's reply - check that the coins are of soft metal. Modern British 'copper' coins are in fact copper coated steel, so you need to trap the awl blade between soft metal like copper or aluminium, or put a couple of thicknesses of tape on the vice jaws Also, most awl blades are sold with just a basic finish, you probably need to sharpen & polish the blade, there are several videos about this on YouTube. This will make it easier to push the awl through the leather and there will be less drag or grip on the blade when you pull it out It is only when you buy the very expensive custom made awls, say £70 to £100 each that you can use them straight out of the box

I have used Tandy's Waxed Nylon Thread SKU 1227 - I like it, I think it's underrated, and a small roll is cheap enough to try They also sell Ritza, aka Tiger Thread, which is good and popular I haven't used any of their other threads; I'm afraid the only way to find out is to buy & try for yourself -- but ask them nicely and they might just send you a metre or two of each to try - they can only say no

As already mentioned, and no doubt will be in future Posts, as a general rule sort the pieces according to their size/thickness/colour depending on how keen you are, and store in plastic boxes - or old cardboard boxes if you're on the cheap Only cut up the pieces if you need to Have you any ideas what you'd like to make? If not Search YouTube for smaller items - wallets, card holders, slip covers for folding knives, small possibles bags, belt pouches, bookmarks, key rings. You can get cutters & templates to make belts from smaller links Could make patchwork bags & handbags......or a stacked leather knife handle, Search YT

Yes, as the previous replies Where there is a sharp change of angle in the line of stitching, such as the sides of a wallet, use a stitching chisel for most of the holes right up to the last hole in the corner, but for that make a round hole. You can do this with a round/scratch awl or make up some kind of spike like a long nail. I use an old dart head & mallet if the leather is too thick to use a round awl by hand But another way round this is not to use a triangular end, instead make it rounded or semi - circular so that results in a horse shoe shaped line of stitching; just go along the edge of the strap with a 2 prong chisel. I was always taught that you shouldn't have a line of stitching straight across a leather strap as it perforates and weakens it, like the perforations in blocks of postage stamps. so just do the stitching around the edge of the leather but not across it; and as mentioned, this results in a horse shoe or U shaped like of stitching.

I use a David Razor Plane for skiving the fold over at the buckle end when making belts, and I'm happy enough with it. I have also used it to thin down some thick 4,5mm leather when making a knife sheath. It comes with a few blades, and you can buy replacements Search t'Net, there are other makes, and see what's available in the USA David Combi Plane with Blades T-DT4 - Nexus Modelling Supplies (nexusmodels.co.uk) I clamp the leather to the edge of my desk then push the plane away; just move the leather around to expose all of it I also use a Japanese skiving Knife and a 10mm French Edger for smaller areas

Here's an idea --- if these tools are for shoe making then perhaps the blunt awl could be a pin pusher, which is used to push in small nails or brads when there isn't enough room to use a hammer Searcht'Net for 'panel pin pusher tool' Here's one -- Proops Push Pin Setting Tool (W3272) Free UK Postage : Amazon.co.uk

I've just been on George Barnsley's website and found this tool, which looks very much like the one second from the left in your picture, with the thinner pale wood handle - though I'm not too sure what it does Feathering Knife | George Barnsley and Sons

Or a knife blade needle file

Besides a round knife, consider a head knife, which is similar but has only one point, which means it's a bit cheaper, and easier to use. Have a look at videos by JH Leather, she uses a head knife for most of her work Yes, there are loads of videos on round knives and how to sharpen them; watch them to get better ideas. I have a George Barnsley head knife and sharpened it on a couple of grades of oilstones followed by wet & dry paper lubricated with water, working through grits from 1,000 to 7,000, then a strop. That initial sharpening took an afternoon, but now it just needs stropping occasionally as I use it Or you could start with a simpler knife like a clicker knife to get experience of working with leather & sharpening, then you'll be in a better position to choose a round knife in the future In fact an alternative combination would be a clicker knife for cutting and a Japanese leather knife or an English style paring knife for skiving........ or back to your original choice - get a good round knife and learn how to use it ......... welcome to the fun!