zuludog

I started with a stitch groover, but now I use wing dividers. The top layer of leather, on the grain side, is the best part of the leather, and as you go towards the lower, flesh side the leather is not as good. If you use a groover you remove the best & strongest part of the leather, and you make it thinner, so that means you're doing the stitching on a thin part of the worst leather The explanation for using a groover is that it sets the stitching below the surface, and so reduces wear on the stitching - but how often does the stitching really get worn?. If you use a divider, pull the stitching tight, and flatten it with a hammer or mallet, this will pull the stitching down so it lies pretty flat anyway - look closely and you'll see And synthetic thread is much less susceptible to wear. This justification for using dividers was explained to me by Nigel Armitage at one of his lectures, and is also on his Vimeo channel.. I've used dividers over a groover for 4 or 5 years now, and not had any problems or complaints. I notice that in YouTube videos dividers are becoming more common.

Today is the start of the Chinese New Year - The Year of the Tiger.... perhaps we should all go out and buy a roll of Ritza 25

Jo Heard of JH Leather is an expert at using a head knife, which is a round knife with one point, and this video shows her using hers for skiving, though admittedly she's using thicker leather than you intend to In fact all her videos are worth watching; they are clear and well made. She does techniques, tools, making items, often using her head knife, plus you get the added bonus of hearing a perfect middle class English accent. How to Raise Leather - Dog Collar Tutorial - YouTube The book that I got from the library and got me started on leatherwork was 'Leatherwork - A Practical Guide' by Chris Taylor. In it he commented that 'a French Edger is one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop'. But of course, you should keep your fingers behind the cutting edge of any tool I use oilstones and a strop to sharpen most of my knives, but for my Japanese leather knives I use this Scary Sharpening (workshopheaven.com) The full system is a bit expensive but the sample pack at about £10 is just right for the Japanese knives, just find your own sheet of glass or similar Most abrasive papers use the Grit size, but these use microns, but it's easy enough to find a conversion chart on t'Net See if you can find a Canadian distributor

Unfortunately you can go on and on ..... Search YT for skiving leather, there are loads of videos ..... there are three basic styles of hand skiving knife -- the Japanese leather knife aka Japanese skiving knife ... the English style paring knife, which has an angled cutting edge .... and the French style, which is a sort of hand held chisel, sometimes with a rounded cutting edge; Search YT and suppliers websites and you'll come across them all. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice. But for wallet edges you could .... also consider a French Edger ..... welcome to the fun! Needless to say, they all need to be absolutely razor sharp I don't use chrome tanned leather much, but I think it's more difficult to skive than veg tan ... and skiving 2oz leather would surely be very difficult and feather it down to nothing If you want to skive such thin leather, Search YT for 'skiving leather for bookbinding' as well

This might be useful When, Why, and How to Skive Leather by Hand - YouTube

Yes, I reckon that knocking an awl blade into a haft is a right fiddly job, and the last time I just couldn't get the thing straight so I drilled it and fitted it with epoxy glue I have 4 or 5 awls, they will keep me going for a while, but if I ever need another one I'll get one with a chuck, like an Osborne Palm Awl Haft 142 and a Saddler's Harness Awl blade #42 or 43 Or I might even treat myself to something exotic & expensive

Just a comment on JCUK's reply - check that the coins are of soft metal. Modern British 'copper' coins are in fact copper coated steel, so you need to trap the awl blade between soft metal like copper or aluminium, or put a couple of thicknesses of tape on the vice jaws Also, most awl blades are sold with just a basic finish, you probably need to sharpen & polish the blade, there are several videos about this on YouTube. This will make it easier to push the awl through the leather and there will be less drag or grip on the blade when you pull it out It is only when you buy the very expensive custom made awls, say £70 to £100 each that you can use them straight out of the box

I have used Tandy's Waxed Nylon Thread SKU 1227 - I like it, I think it's underrated, and a small roll is cheap enough to try They also sell Ritza, aka Tiger Thread, which is good and popular I haven't used any of their other threads; I'm afraid the only way to find out is to buy & try for yourself -- but ask them nicely and they might just send you a metre or two of each to try - they can only say no

As already mentioned, and no doubt will be in future Posts, as a general rule sort the pieces according to their size/thickness/colour depending on how keen you are, and store in plastic boxes - or old cardboard boxes if you're on the cheap Only cut up the pieces if you need to Have you any ideas what you'd like to make? If not Search YouTube for smaller items - wallets, card holders, slip covers for folding knives, small possibles bags, belt pouches, bookmarks, key rings. You can get cutters & templates to make belts from smaller links Could make patchwork bags & handbags......or a stacked leather knife handle, Search YT

Yes, as the previous replies Where there is a sharp change of angle in the line of stitching, such as the sides of a wallet, use a stitching chisel for most of the holes right up to the last hole in the corner, but for that make a round hole. You can do this with a round/scratch awl or make up some kind of spike like a long nail. I use an old dart head & mallet if the leather is too thick to use a round awl by hand But another way round this is not to use a triangular end, instead make it rounded or semi - circular so that results in a horse shoe shaped line of stitching; just go along the edge of the strap with a 2 prong chisel. I was always taught that you shouldn't have a line of stitching straight across a leather strap as it perforates and weakens it, like the perforations in blocks of postage stamps. so just do the stitching around the edge of the leather but not across it; and as mentioned, this results in a horse shoe or U shaped like of stitching.

I use a David Razor Plane for skiving the fold over at the buckle end when making belts, and I'm happy enough with it. I have also used it to thin down some thick 4,5mm leather when making a knife sheath. It comes with a few blades, and you can buy replacements Search t'Net, there are other makes, and see what's available in the USA David Combi Plane with Blades T-DT4 - Nexus Modelling Supplies (nexusmodels.co.uk) I clamp the leather to the edge of my desk then push the plane away; just move the leather around to expose all of it I also use a Japanese skiving Knife and a 10mm French Edger for smaller areas

Here's an idea --- if these tools are for shoe making then perhaps the blunt awl could be a pin pusher, which is used to push in small nails or brads when there isn't enough room to use a hammer Searcht'Net for 'panel pin pusher tool' Here's one -- Proops Push Pin Setting Tool (W3272) Free UK Postage : Amazon.co.uk

I've just been on George Barnsley's website and found this tool, which looks very much like the one second from the left in your picture, with the thinner pale wood handle - though I'm not too sure what it does Feathering Knife | George Barnsley and Sons

Or a knife blade needle file

Besides a round knife, consider a head knife, which is similar but has only one point, which means it's a bit cheaper, and easier to use. Have a look at videos by JH Leather, she uses a head knife for most of her work Yes, there are loads of videos on round knives and how to sharpen them; watch them to get better ideas. I have a George Barnsley head knife and sharpened it on a couple of grades of oilstones followed by wet & dry paper lubricated with water, working through grits from 1,000 to 7,000, then a strop. That initial sharpening took an afternoon, but now it just needs stropping occasionally as I use it Or you could start with a simpler knife like a clicker knife to get experience of working with leather & sharpening, then you'll be in a better position to choose a round knife in the future In fact an alternative combination would be a clicker knife for cutting and a Japanese leather knife or an English style paring knife for skiving........ or back to your original choice - get a good round knife and learn how to use it ......... welcome to the fun!

I am currently going back to my youth and listening to a type of Prog Rock - Jazz that is often called 'The Canterbury Scene' as many of the bands originated from there in the 1960s & 70s. It includes Soft Machine; Hatfield And The North; Caravan; and others. Here's a taste -- Caravan - In The Land Of Grey And Pink (Full Album) - YouTube Hatfield and the North - Live at Rainbow Theatre, 1975 - YouTube Soft Machine Alive in Paris 1970 - Out-Bloody-Rageous - YouTube

These might be useful, at least for a start and giving you an idea - https://reenactorsmarket.co.uk Living History societies, associations and reenactors (historic-uk.com)

Search around on t'Net for things like Roman Reenactment Groups, Reenactment Group Directory, and so on; there are loads of them, worldwide, in USA, and Britain; I'm sure they would help you. Here's a start - https://www.romanempire.net I visited Hadrian's Wall a couple of years ago, when there was a Reenactment Group (forgotten which one) giving demonstrations at Vindolandia. They use & make authentic clothing & equipment One of their members was making and showing Roman footwear, and I was pleasantly surprised at how well made, substantial, and modern looking they were. He used modern awls, knives, needles etc, but said that his next stage would be to identify, & source or make leatherworking tools from the Roman period, and then use them to make replica footwear and other leather items in the future Also Search YouTube for 'making roman footwear' ; there are a few videos

I use -- Tandy Craftool Fine Diamond chisels - flat handle & silver finish - 3,5mm between points for fine work & thin leather like wallets Seiwa Diamond chisels 4mm between points for general work like belts, pouches, & small knife sheaths Tandy Craftool Pro Line chisels 4mm - round handle & black finish - for axe covers & heavier knife sheaths. Most diamond stitching chisels are measured between the points of the prongs, but these chisels are measured between the sides, so although described as 4mm, the distance between the points is about 5,25mm So I should imagine that if you can't find Seiwa chisels, then Tandy Craftool Pro Line 3mm would give you a distance between points of about 4mm

That's interesting, I also use those Tandy 3,5mm fine diamond chisels for thin leather, like making wallets. For wider stitching I use Seiwa diamond chisels and Tandy Craftool, with the black finish. I've polished the Seiwa & Tandy Craftool but not the Tandy fine diamond

I wonder, if you don't mind, could you tell us what make they are, and why you chose them? And I've learned something as well --- Americans really do say 'dang' .......and I thought it was just in the cowboy films!

Make the holes with the diamond chisel along the sides right up to the corner; they will automatically slant in the right direction. Then for the hole in the actual corner use a round awl -- which (obviously) doesn't slant in any direction.

MIKE02130 ---I adjust the lengths of the tail and the working length to have a long tail and the length of the working or active thread about 3" longer than that. This gives me enough free working thread to pull the stitches down neatly, and to cast the stitch. It's easy enough to slide the needle along and adjust the working thread to a length that suits you. Or after pulling the thread through the stitching hole you can simply let go of the tail & needle, which will give you the whole of the working length to cast & finish that stitch; but as i said, this relies on the thread being waxy & sticky enough that the needle will not slip off by itself, and I've never had a problem with that. Before I did leather work I repaired tents & rucsacs, plus general sewing like fixing buttons & minor tears, and still do. I never locked on the needle & thread for that, and I wondered why you have to do it for leatherwork?

OK, another couple of comments -- By not locking the needle & thread you rely on the fact that waxed thread creates enough friction that the needle will not slide off the end of the thread if you let go of the needle. This means you must use needles with a small eye for the thread As you use up the thread in the saddle stitch, by shortening the tail you are moving the fold over along the thread, thus you don't get a weak or worn spot on the fold over at the eye

If I knew how to make a video, I would; but let's try with words I've just measured one of my fold - over knife sheaths, and the total length of the line of stitching is 8 inches. I use 5 X that length to calculate the total amount of thread I will need = 40" That will give me enough to thread the needle and some backstitching So there will be 20" thread on each side of the seam. As mentioned, I'm not locking the thread, just passing it through the eye, so the fold over could be anywhere along that length of 20" If you just fold over to leave a 2" tail emerging from the eye, you will have a working length of 18". When you start to sew you will pull the 18" working length plus the 2" tail through the stitch hole....but the 2" will come through with the 18", so the total distance you need to pull is 18" But if you have a tail of 9" then the working length is 20 - 9 = 11", which means you only need to pull 11" through the stitching hole, as the tail will come with it Thus by making the tail fairly long you don't have to pull as much thread through the stitching hole....and as the length of the single strand/working length is reduced as you sew, you slide the needle along a bit so you still have the longest tail you can get away with..... which means, as Sheilajeanne states, there is less chance of the needle sliding off the end of the thread Hmmm....if anyone understands what I'm trying to explain, and thinks they can do it better, please do!