John D Dennehy

Thank you Johanna, That helps. I am just trying to get a handle on all this as we discussed before. I entered the miniature Buscadero rig. Looks like it did win a wee something. (blush) (rubs toe of boot in dirt). Aw shucks now, I wasn't askin for anyone to take notice. So I entered in the advanced division for the first time and only the one entry. If I understand correctly from some of the other posts I would need to enter enough to win 9 more times before getting moved up? Does any win count? Or if I remember something you mentioned before there has to be something extraordinary for the judges to make the determination. Am I finally getting the gist of this through me thick Irish head? John D One more question - If myself or anyone else that entered this year does an extraordinary piece before the next show, can we enter in the next higher division or do we stay in the one entered this year? Leave it up to the judges?

Congrats Randy! So please explain how the bumped up or down and officially in a catagory works. This is the first time I have entered anything in one of these "official" international guild shows. I am anxious to see the judges comments to see what to do for the next one. Do we have to wait until this time next year or are there other shows in between? Seems like I have seen some others posted by other guilds. John D

Way to go Tom!!!!! And Tina and everyone else that won something. Good show Mates!!!!! Slainte (cheers)

Thanks to everyone. This set is sold.

This is a true Filigree letter set of dies and hydraulic press. It cuts the background away from the letter so a colored or pattern leather shows from behind. I am not using it at all any longer and could use some extra cash. It is getting lots of interest. No one knows a true value and I have not priced the set as of yet. I hope that someone will make an offer based on a real value or earning potential. The press has a guide to align the dies and could be used for other things around the shop. This is a link to a few other items for sale. Contact me off list for negotiations please. jddennehy@yahoo.comhttp://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?...a0-dfb23d887705

Aye now, I suppose that sein this lovely bit o leather modeled by an equaly lovely lass might be out of the question? But here's to ya mate. Very nice! Slainte

Aye now lass, tis makin my mouth water just thinkin bout it. Very nice work. I have an appreciation of the Flask meself. Love the knotwork your doin. Slainte,

I have some 2-d stamps in a nice foam padded box, a set of filigree letters in a nice foam padded box, press, stamps with a wooden box and some other hand tools for sale. I need to raise a little extra cash right now for my son's wedding. take a look and contact me off list to discuss prices and shipping or any questions. jddennehy@yahoo.com Thanks! http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?...;albumId=871778

Nice set.

Absolutely Beautiful!!!!!!

Very Nice! Those could be in the next Packing Iron book.

Ed, Maybe this little bit from an article I did will help in some way. "The stamps used for this project are shown in (Pic 7). The first two Bevelers were made by Dan Dennehy* (my father) years ago. They are a bit steeper and do not affect the surrounding items as much as normal Bevelers do. The undercut beveler # 098,works nicely inside the tight turns. The Backgrounders are all A104’s with two of them ground down and polished to fit in small, tight areas. The border stamp was used on the billet end. I followed a standard stamping sequence by beveling everything and then doing the background. I them stamped the borders on the billet end" I hope this helps in some way. Let me know if I can help in any other way. Guess I should have looked further before posting.

What a cool idea!

Brilliant! Since I have never seen the like on leather before I think it is just fantastic. Great job Shirley! I hope it doesn't get dyed black.

First off, what type sheath are you wanting to make? Straight blade or folder? For whatever type you are doing, I would demand exact tracings of the knife from the side and along the spine. Maybe even have them put the knife in a copy machine and photo copy it for reference. Just a little input from experiance.

SWEEEET!

"you think you have a piece to enter in an IFoLG show, then you're probably (or should be) aware of rules, regulations, and judging criteria. That level of craft may be deserving of harsher criticism, but if it's good enough to compete, how much criticism is needed?" Very interesting subject and read this morning folks. This particular statement is of particular interest to me as I would like to start sending in a few entries to the IFOLG shows. I have gleaned some pointers in the last couple of years that I never knew. I have asked questions and looked online but have not found a "rulebook" per se with written criteria for the judges to follow. For example I have heard that on belts they look for an exact spacing between the leather and hardware. I have also heard that all items are to be hand stitched. I love honest criticsm of my work at all times and am very receptive to it. This makes me work harder to kick it up a notch. What I would like to know is where is this list of rules, regulations and especially the judging criteria and how does the average person get a copy? I want to find out specific things to make sure I have done the project correctly (according to the rulebook and guidelines). If this needs to go to a different thread then I would love to see it elaborated on. Maybe some of you that have lots of judging type show experiance can join in. I know that I would sure appreciate some feedback. Maybe this will shave a few of the school of hard knocks years off for many of us that have not entered many shows. Thanks,

Jerkeejoe, Welcome! As you can tell by now there are numerous ways to skin a cat. I am fascinated by some of the methods described here. I am interested in trying some of them myself. I have made a few sheaths in my time as well. Here is my input. First off - match the weight of leather to the project. For instance, it looks to be about a 3" drop point Loveless style knife in that sheath. For a knife that size and the stlye of sheath I would not be reluctant to use a 6-7 or 7-8 oz leather. The larger the knife the thicker the leather. You also need to find a good leather. Do not use belly leather and nothing spongy. You will need to properly case the leather and everyone has an opinion on this. For this project I would cut and assemble it and then case the leather to form it. Give the sheath a good dunking in warm water and put it in a plastic bag overnight. Take it out early the next morning and let it dry out until it looks like the natural color but is cool to the touch. Protect the knife with saran wrap and insert it in the sheath. I start molding by just pressing around the handle with my fingers. Then use a large rounded bone folder of some sort. To get the fine detail you will finish with a modeling tool. You can achive very nice results like the one shown without making molds and stuff if you start with good leather. Just my input, John D

Hey Art, The stuff I use is about 1/16". I will send a sample for your use when I return your knife pattern.

All of your sheaths are excellent, Luke. I am curious as to who the knifemaker is.

Very nice, Nick! I like the stone pouch on the front of the sheath. It's hard to beat a Randall and hawk when it hits the fan.

Slainte! Very very nice!

rdb, I ran into the same issue. After trying everything the manual indicated and some of my own ideas, I re wound a bobbin and re threaded the machine following the exact diagram in the manual. Turns out that no matter how many times I looked I had threaded it wrong in one spot. Also make sure your needle is sharp and inserted the correct way and depth.

I am unworthy! That is fantastic!