MADMAX22

Not that I would recommend BUT Have you tried slicking the leather, ya know case it then use a slicker to smooth it out. This will really smooth out the surface and gives it a nice look after its finished. Do ya have a picture of the offending areas just to make sure I am not pointing you down the wrong path.

Have to see what happens. Ill be sure to get back to ya if I split them up. If someone is starting out I can add a few more things to round out a "kit" for a little bit more on price (much cheaper then what I paid for them).

Barry king are nice and about $50. Can get it to use the tandy blade as well. I like mine.

Well that was fun. Anyhow I doubled up the stamping on the s624, f941,089,980,087 FYI

So getting rid of a few craft tool stamps. There are about 4 or so that arent craft tool, no idea who made them. I included the stamping and numbers if ya can read it. May have to right click and open image in its own window so you can zoom in. They are all in good shape, come from various time era's. Lots are from about 7 years ago, some I got from places other then tandy so hard to tell age. Some have the black label, one or two say stainless as well, rest are just stamped. 52 stamps all together. $120 plus $8 shipping to US states (priority flat rate box). If your in canada or somewhere else we can discuss shipping but I have no clue if that throws it way up or something. Sold as a group, dont want to split them up. Oh and there are gonna be a few extra free B's that I have filed on or forgot to include when I was taking the original photos so. Odd cant seem to attach photos like usual.

Dont even like shopping in store at HF although a few things are worth picking up, a few other things if modified properly are worth it as well. Tandy is just as bad, took me two weeks to get a order from a store that was an hour away, cost me a left something or other as well. That was a while ago though.

Glueing anything with a finished back like say latigo and you will generally have issues. Now if you split the latigo so its more bare leather on the back you can glue pretty good. Regular vegtan ya can glue pretty easy. I would use something like 3M 77 spray glue, hit the back side of the leather and the felt then stick them together. For me atleast doing larger areas the spray glue works well and is easier to get a thin coating on.

I am really surprised there isnt a how too on making one similar to the regad yet, or that the chinese havent started making one for about $50 and selling them for twice that. The regad are seriously over priced for what they are but there seems to be a market for them. Forgot about this one

Thanks fo the suggestions, Ill see what I got to play with.

Question for you guys that sew thinner leather. I am making a few smaller card holders and what not where I am using 3oz for the body and 2-3oz for the pockets (like JLS card holders) and a few other things with similar weights with bridle leather that I split down. Using my 111W155 with 92 bonded nylon and a 18 needle (was trying a 19 needle also). Issue is it usually does a good job, nice even stitches but with this stuff being pretty thin ecspecially where it gets to the single layer of 3oz its hard to keep the knot of the thread buried in the leather. Most of the time it looks pretty good but occasionally it will either have the knot toward the top or the bottom of the leather. Not the end of the world type thing but I try my best to pay attention to the details on my projects because I want the customer to be happy and unable to point out little things that are not up to snuff. Is it that I need to step down in thread size or run a thinner thread on the bottom and keep the 92 on top? Would prefer to stick with 92 all around. Or am I needing to try and fine tune my sewing machine some more? Thanks.

Or any number of sellers on ebay, Techsew, Toledo sewing, cobra sewing machines .................

Here is one video on stropping splitter blades.

You can stamp W&C also, the american english bridle is alot different then the true english bridle which has a real thick waxy top coat. I have actually redyed W&C bridle to darker colors with decent success and like some of the results Ive gotten. If you go with W&C maverick leather has some nice prices but they are not near as nice as what you get from the tannery where you can spend a little more and order actual top grade leather hides.

Hermann Oak (has minimum order) Wickett and Craig If your looking for the real waxy english bridle I would suggest Booth & Co (american importer of sedgwick leather).

Regardless of what you do a good filtering dust collection system is essential ecspecially if the wood working is in the basement. Getting too much dust of various woods can cause your woodworking hobby to come to a halt over time. Lots of people will build a intollerance to various woods which can have bad reactions eventually. As far as the leatherwork goes its good to have a clean work area ecspecially when doing your finishing. If you keep it clean and have a good filtration system it probably wont be too bad but separating the areas would be best IMHO.

I know my 441 clone will do weird clicks and what not when things start hanging up. I dont always know what makes the noise but I do know it indicates I need to check the thread spool or the needle or bobbin thread ......... Have ya taken out the bobbin and hook and cleaned everything up and checked for any issues while ya are in there. Same thing goes for the machines face, pull the face plate off and give everything a once over and oil it all up.

Good stuff. Gotta love those guns, very accurate right out of the box. Picked one up for the wife a few years ago and thought about making a holster but it looked like a pain. Yours doesnt make it look any easier.

I make a very similar recipe for my finish/conditioner and dont use the Eucalyptus and the same jar for the past few years hasnt developed any issues. Not saying its a bad idea but you can get by without it. Be sure to use pure neatsfoot oil (incase you use the compound stuff). I have been finishing my projects depending on leather thickness and if dyed I will do a very very light coat of neatsfoot oil (helps to even out the dye), let dry, buff real quick, then I do a tan kote wiped on thinly and quick buff once dry - usually with the tan kote I use sherling and wipe on a decent amount then go back over it before it drys completely with fresh sherling and rub a tad which gets rid of any possible streaks and leaves a nice matt finish. After that drys I use the "Bushmans" recipe rubbing in by hand. Let sit required time to absorb and dry a bit then buff it out to get the nice sheen talked about above. Really like how it all comes out.

History is a funny thing. Hopefully we arent in the same point in time as some other well known countries were.

Uwe the pics you have spec the 545 at a M class bobbin, the 145 is a G class. Looks like everything else is the same with exception of the size. When I get time I am going to have to look at the parts and how they go together to see what would need to be modified to make it work. There is enough space in the cage area (not sure of name) but the diameter change will require adjustment and not sure if there is enough with the way the parts go together. Gonna look into it when I get to that point. Should be easy to do theoretically with the way the pfaffs are setup.

Agree with your response above tinker but like I was saying its not all happy times with the immigration issue. Dispite what some like to believe they arent all hard working decent people. Anyhow on topic I am curious how starting any production company works in the US now. We the american people are already thought of as having endless income which is reflected in various premiums we pay (goods, insurance, medication, health care .....) and we are actually required to obey the OSHA laws and EPA self appointed "laws" and "regulations" and probably a ton of other stuff that is required by a company started production here. So looking at starting a tannery for leather would require huge hurtles to overcome ecspecially something related to any chrome tanning and probably veg tanning as well. I guess a person starting out with enough money and time could eventually make it happen. Curious if it would be the same as the old saying in the aviation industry " How do you make a million dollars in aviation? Start with 2 million." As mentioned its a big mess directed at making large corporations money, and the world trade organization which HRC set up with expansive powers to do what they want are all going to have to be overcome. I mean when companys can send motorcycle frames all the way to china, get them welded up, and ship them back cheaper then paying a decent wage to welders over here who can do a much better job, how do you compete with that. Pay a experienced welder $8 an hour ?

So since I started in leather work I have avoided using edge paints. Have always used vegtan for the most part and never needed it since I use a method similar to Hidepounder and have really good results. Now that I am branching out a little with the leather types I use it has become apparent if I want a nice looking edge that I am going to have to start using edge paint on occasion. So I have a few bottles of fiebings edge kote I bought when I first started (most arent even open yet). Since then things have changed a little on what is available. There are several different ones on the market now and people seem to be more knowledgeable about applying it. Is edge kote any good compared to the others available as long as you follow the process for doing the edges the same (application, heat, sand, application, sand, burnish....)? How well do the other brands and edge kote hold up if applied properly? Thanks for the input.

Thank you guys much appreciated, Uwe great pics those will come in handy.

Big Sioux and JLS that is one side of the immigration story. I use to work with alot of them when I was a teenager doing construction. The problem stems from the other half, ones that come up here to setup grow areas and meth houses in the mountains or mule the drugs up here or trying to get government hand outs and what not. Agree about the farming issue as well, once it was controlled by the government and they got use to the income they received well it only takes a generation of feeding birds every year to get them coming back to the same spot to get more hand outs.