MADMAX22

Personally I prefer the full round, ecspecially if it has two different shapes. Allows one knife to be used for different cutting operations plus if one starts dulling while your cutting just flip it over and your good to go. I am sure with the tool steel the dulling effect doesnt happen as frequently. Nice looking knives.

I agree leave it as is. Looks great.

Is that the prelubricated stuff? Been meaning to try some thread from Bob after my last (and final) fiasco with the thread exchange.

I use a adblocker so I dont see them. Weaver didnt use too. Kind of surprised they would honestly. Good to know however I would still deal with Ryan (or Bob or Steve) before weaver any day.

The new era of super greed and continual increase in sales, walmart mentality, whatever ya wanna call it. Ofcourse I got to work with my parents in there small time business that had to deal with this very thing for a long time until they closed there doors. When they started out having a actual store front, business license, and wholesale accounts was enough. Then they had to start paying minimums, buying certain amounts. I think it was about the same time the big chinese import chains started showing up. Such is the way of things now a days.

I would buy from Neel's saddlery way before I ever thought of buying from Weaver. Weaver wouldnt ever support this site even though I am sure a good portion of customers of theres got turned onto them from this site.

I just sharpen on my noname double sided/grit stones then to my strop with a dark grey powder mixed with oil. I dont recall the powders grit because I got it from a knife maker I think and it came in a ziplock bag. Its not as course as the general valve lapping compound but it removes metal faster then white rouge. I actually have two stropping blocks but dont use the white rouge one anymore, the one with the grey powder/oil mix gets a shinny finish much faster and last. You can buy lapping compounds in various grits which will last ya a life time for stropping. Just take a teaspoon and mix with oil then brush onto the flesh side of your strop. Once the oil dries out the compound can slowly come off but it will stay enough to sharpen your blades or whatever else you sharpen on it.

Pretty much what I have done for a few benches in my garage. I usually have lowes split the plywood in half so its 2'x8' then double them up. Gives ya a good solid 1.5" top that I line with whatever if I am using it for leather. Everything else is easy peasy to cut with a chop saw, as cheap as ya can get those things why not.

The OP was actually on 10 hrs ago as of right now. If you scroll over his name or check his profile it will show you when he was last on. FYI. Agree that a year old for sale thread is not likely to still be active.

For someone who is interested in knife making ya have a odd outlook on other knife makers work. Ya think that is bad, price some blanchard pricking irons without fancy wood or mosaic pins or honestly much finish work at all. I guess I am kind of bias because I like good craftsmanship with some artistic talent thrown in, hence why I picked up a couple sets of bearman mauls vs just getting a rawhide mallet. Sure I could accomplish similar work but the feel of them are so much nice, the rebound is nicer, the sound much more pleasant, and they look good. Not to mention when I am on my way out I can give em to my kids if they are interested or sell them to another leather worker for a decent price and still not be out much.

I would recommend personally a medium to smaller sized one like that gomph on Bruce's website. It will handle a range of items. One thing to remember also is that if you take care of your knife and 10 years from now (assuming were all still around) that knife will probably get you your money back or close to it. Same goes for the custom made ones, although generally more expensive, take care of it and you can always sell em and recoupe most of your cost and in some cases more than what ya paid for it.

What kind of work are you doing? There are two paths I personally would go down. 1- Buy from a custom maker. I am not in the know on good ones but there are a few makers of leatherworking knives. 2-Buy old stock knives like Gomph, Rose, Old Osbournes (some others). I have a Gomph like the one here item 6531 http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/knives-and-handled-cutting-tools-sale that is very sharp and I really like it plus its a smaller but not too small so works for a lot of different projects. Now the why, the old knives were made usually with "high carbon" steel (calm down knife guru's) and was generally good high quality steel. They had good heatreat, held an edge, and if maintained properly only require stropping to stay sharp. The new "custom" makers now a days use a wide range of high quality steels and generally have the heat treat dialed in. They can get you the shape you want, usually have a few different steels to choose from if you have a preference. The mass produced knives today are just not worth your money assuming you work for it. Atleast thats IMHO. Wanted to add, there are some differences with the thickness of the blade as well. I have a rose blade also which is somewhat thick comparatively to some of my other knives, it works great for cutting true english bridle and thicker veg hide. The thinner gomph and a couple others I have still perform great but do thinner leathers a little better. Atleast that has been my experience. I think the thicker blade pushes out the thicker leather a tad more opening up the cut.

Ha I use to work at Jeffco airport for a few years (back when it was still jeffco). I dont recall much being between there and Boulder. Course that whole place has changed in the past 17 years since I lived there.

Where are you located capt? Have you tried CL for cabinets? I know in my area there are always nice looking old tredle cabinets for sale many of them in very nice shape.

Masters imho.

Folding the leather back on the grain side helps get that wrinkled look also. Dont recommend it but than again I dont do distressed either. Also look at some of the late chuck burrows old threads. Pretty sure he had a few good ones on distressing leather, or it may be in his books if they are still for sale. He was very good at getting a natural distressed look to his projects.

One thing to remember also is when doing inlays, if you do an inlay with snake and use the cutout portion to raise the inlay to be just slightly proud of the surrounding leather (the cutout leather is under the inlaid snake) with stuff like snake the scales can sometimes stick out and give ya a little headache around the edge. If ya do it like Borique did in the picture above or the windowed recessed style you wont have that issue. oops just saw how old this was. Probably got it all straightened out a while ago.

Gotta remember also the amount of usable shark after you get rid of the edges, where the belt slots are, the stitch lines, your gonna end up with a minimal amount to play with and thats if it all comes off in a usable fashion. Time better spent making an extra holster to cover the cost of some fresh pieces of shark.

Seriously though I would look at who is closer, Dont forget Neels Saddlery as well. Pretty sure he is east coast, Bob is pretty much east coast, Steve is west coast.

You got a quarter?

Maverick leather is cheaper and has a better selection.

if they tell you that there linen thread is comparible to 6cord linen thread then I would look else where. If I was doing linen thread I would shoot for barbours linen thread and wax it yourself. Cseeger what are you talking about taking dye, prewaxed dyed linen thread doesnt take dye FYI. Maybe I read your statement wrong. Also all linen threads are not made equal. Also maybe you know, what is the shelf life/life span of your braided poly? I asked in another thread and noone had any response really. Just curious if you knew.

Weldwood is alright and usually works pretty good. I finally tried some Masters and will get some more again when I can. It is a little thicker then weldwood but provided a great bond and I didnt have the occasional inconsistent results like I did with weldwood. Gonna have to try some of the others listed here. I dont mind paying a little more and ordering it (have to order everything else anyways) if the performance is there and repeatable every time. Nothing worse then doing a project that took several hours to make and possibly worth some decent money and have the seams look bad because the cement wasnt holding.

All look really good. I like that style a little better then the snap or folded corner ones. Only thing I would offer up as a suggestion is the edges of the leather on the inlays (the part you cutout), try and finish those the same as you do your normal edges. Adds a little bit to the overall project. Like I said they look really good though.

Ill take the adjustable edge creaser. PM inbound.