MADMAX22

If the feed dog dropped down I would pull the front cover off (cant recall if its two screws on there or not) and check how everything looks underneath. The timing shouldnt cause the feed dog to drop down, sounds like something may have come loose. I am not a pro on these but have messed around with my 103 and a consew version (both of which I need to go thru). I also noticed under the top access plate (just forward of the pulley) the connecting linkage that translate down to the driven shaft for the feed dog is loose you wont get any walking motion and it will just stitch in place.

My area is hit or miss on CL, very very rarely if your off work and can respond in an hour of them posting you can get a good deal. Lately there have been several decent industrial machines but they are like a pfaff 145 for $1500, anything walking foot they usually want $1000 for (thats with a clutch motor and old table). The ones that go for $600/700 are usually gone then show up a few days later for $1000+.

Haha nope, I had a few responses being a ex sailor but I am sure they would offend a few members

His selection can be somewhat limited but so far everything I need is there. He gives discounts on larger orders but doesnt charge a minimum order fee, his shipping is quick, solid brass and clearly stated as such, made in china but quality is decent (probably 49% lead and depleted nuclear waste ). Oh and his Chicago screws actually work, all of them, they actually screw into the post as you would expect. I had a order of 100 that I got from springfield a year or two ago and never used. Started using them and atleast every second to third the male and female ends would not go together. The female threads were horrible. Some were ok if I used pliers or a vice to hold them while I screwed them all the way down and back out. Noone has time to screw with that every time you put a belt or rifle sling together.

Cant help ya with what is needed and what each is required. I am more curious how a do it yourself setup would work out. Besides having to turn all the units would require some horsepower but also have to remove the main shaft to replace belts and such. Almost wonder if several separate machines on a 8ft work bench for example would be a better solution. Do you have any shoe repair places in your town? If you do I would see if they were up to answer some of your questions or even let you watch (may be less distracting) while they use there equipment. Probably a long shot but worth a try. As always some fresh coffee and donuts go a long way to getting questions answered.

Got it, that is one of a few I picked up. Couldnt remember if that was your videos/design or not (not great at remembering names).

Very cool. Think your right about that treadle. Dont see any with a big wheel like that. Good luck on finding the right parts and getting stitching again.

Ya may have gotten a better response in the saddle section. I dont make saddles but assuming you want good vegtan then go with hermann oak or wickett and craig from the tannery.

Yeah I hear ya, gotta make what sells. One thing I do sometimes is just spray the vegtan with a spray bottle then let it sit a little bit. The water is applied in a more controlled manner and doesnt pool anywhere like it potentially can when dipping it in a tub of water.

Nicely done and I agree looks like ya have been busy. Which pattern do ya use for your rifle slings if you dont mind. I use to have my own pattern but purchased one of black river laser patterns a while back and it seems to be pretty nice.

Like getting a new sewing machine, no scrap escapes getting stitched.

IMHO this one looks like the Kmart version compared to what you did with the brown/red you posted previously. The stitching/finished edges/center insert all add to the one you did previous. Thats just me though, dont take it the wrong way. I think what sets yours apart from a big percentage of the others is the two colors of leather nicely stitched with the nice middle inserts. Squaring up the corners, not sure what leather your using. If vegtan you can wet mold and crease the line in there, With the chrome tan or similar you can do a tight fold and stitch around where you want the crease to be or put a center section like the others but have the outer layer fold over just the edge of the insert and stitch that line around. Its kind of hard to explain but its almost like adding a welting line on upholstery items but without the tubing in it if that makes sense. It may work, it may not.

Singer didnt know that about the tension units. The Steve and Bob videos always show adjusting both tension units in unison together (basically same tension on both).

No idea but they look sturdy and I like the layout on the bottom.

Good deal. Bob and his son I think it is do some nice work. There flat foot presser feet are nice as well.

Singer those are really nice looking stands by the way, wish I had gotten one when I got my 4500.

Be clean. Wash your hands before stitching. Depending on the wax they use could affect it also. The leather finish could also affect the results. Make sure you finish your leather before stitching because finish can pick up dye and deposit it on your thread. Thats all I got.

Yeah ground mine off, polished it up and it works just fine. My 4500 doesnt release much tension when lifting the tension release, never has always gotta pull thread from the top. Didnt realize that tension release actually worked on these things. It does split the top tension device just the bottom tensioner seems to hold the tension regardless. Never scene that on there website, if they have it you have to call to order.

Singer man I totally agree on getting the machines from dealers. My observation was about the accessories only. Seems like one heck of a mark up for a $25 part just to package and ship it out at $175. Of course it is a crap shoot getting stuff direct from china. Wouldn't mind some after market parts made for these that are a little higher quality. I did get the ln line feet from Bob, they work good and we're at a fair price.

Yeah they are and I still dont understand that one. They are relatively cheap even with shipping if ordered from China (where most if not all come from) yet go for the hundreds here in the states. Plus I have scene the blanket sets charged as extra, I may be mistaken but I thought the machines shipped with those feet from the factory.

Like I said its the modern way of things. Noone is going to lose that 5% of growth a quarter, its gonna come out of the customers wallets somehow. I understand giving someone who buys a ton of stuff a price break but that is not what this is. They are maintaining the same price just fining the guys who dont buy enough to justify there cutoff point. Think of the person that only orders say $600 of rivets every year, knows exactly what they want, calls with the order and is done in 2 minutes, everything goes in one box to get shipped out. How would that justify the extra expense? Sure the 1200 dollars a year may or may not be easily achievable and the extra cost is an easy way to get rid of those that dont meet that minimum or to get that extra percentage required to maintain positive growth. Do you have a brick and mortar store? Just seems that the way of dealing with customers would only be conducive to modern online sales. May be totally wrong, my parents only had there store front for 15 years (I only worked there for about 8). The wholesalers they bought from half of them would stop in the store or go to lunch to talk over the orders for the month. Nothing special, they traveled to all the shops in the area. Ofcourse that was before the internet really took over, nothing like that happens anymore.

Just to emphasize I am not saying don't buy expensive just because. You can order some 1084 cheaply, make a few brick forge and heat it to nonmagnetic and quench in canola oil, sand appropriately and you will have a nice knife (better then random sawblade steel). Just have to deal with fixing a little warfare possibly. Add a simple oak handle and your all set. Oh and JLS my 2014 truck drives me nuts. It has more chimes and reminders than I had to deal with operating a hot rock.

@Sonydaze Like I was saying its a different mentality now a days. When a customer calls you and ask questions about whatever it is your selling them vs hitting the add to cart on the website do you charge them more?

I would still give Bob a call to see what they have. The 1206 RB is pretty decently priced for a new machine and it has a servo and all that with it. I will add that yes its an industrial machine, made to sew all day which is true of every other true industrial machine out there. Anything you get that can handle leather well, be it a machine that does upholstery leather all day long or one that does saddle parts all day is a industrial machine and shouldnt be shied away from. There are a ton of resources on operating and adjusting the 211g machines (maybe not so much the 466), that being said buying from a good standing dealer that doesnt mind taking the time to walk you thru some stuff is also very helpful. Agree with him it is easier to start out with a fresh machine but not necessary if your resourceful. I have a 2 point philosophy when learning new machines/equipment/mechanical items in general. Buy old still operating items that you can repair and in doing such learn a ton or buy new and learn later. Sometimes the requirement is to be using the machine right out of the gate in which case new would be preferred. One big thing you didnt mention is what will you be making, what are your requirements for your projects?

IMHO keep on lookin. Looks like a bid and swap guy, no history what so ever on the machine, and at $500 its not a fraction of what they go for as his listing says. Maybe when it was new. I am not familier with that submodel, my 211g155 would do upholstery leather very well but was limited to 138 thread and was fast until I put a servo on it. Figure $500, plus new motor so about $650-700 depending on what ya got, plus any parts that need replacement your in about the range of a new machine.