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MADMAX22

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  1. MADMAX22
    Kydex from what I have heard is not ideal, neither is the metal strips. Some have used various types of poly strapping that is made to bend and flex without getting brittle and doesnt eat away at the leather or stitching. Thats just me doing a bunch of research. I have yet to use any type of liner besides leather. I have used horse for the inside layer which makes a very stiff belt. FIrst and foremost use quality leather then start thinking of adding random liner materials. You have to remember that everyone is going to claim there way is the best and throw out all kinds of opinions why that is the ultimate truth. The liners are a good sales pitch and if spun the right way makes a regular dual layer leather belt sound like it couldnt hold a derringer for more than a couple weeks without falling down to your ankles (although I garuntee this aint the truth). Ofcourse I am just a veteran "weekend crafter dude" so dont listen to anything I have to say.
  2. MADMAX22
    Contact Simon at http://www.kangarooleather.com.au/ it is much cheaper ecspecially if you can order a decent amount. There are a few places in AU that supply everyone over here including Morgan and Springfield, if you buy it state side get it from Morgan much easier to deal with than springfield and better quality.
  3. MADMAX22
    You can build a stronger table for the same cost, cheaper if you look around for lumber/wood on CL.
  4. MADMAX22
    Ya may wanna look into the debacle/debate on glueing the sew foam to the leather. Most usually dont glue it (maybe just around the edges) it is usually just stitched at the edges. http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Sew-Foam-1{47}4".html I dont know this place but they will get you started in your searches. I personally only do MC seats occasionally and use the same thickness/type all around (little different I know). I also glue everything down because a MC seat is a little different then a car seat. Basting/listing/binding tape because I only do occasional projects I usually cut strips from the hide I am using, split it down or skive it on both edges and use that. http://www.perfectfit.com/15308/Bindings-Trims.html Both of these places I think have the J-strips but not sure if ya can order directly from them. I am no upholstery expert so take it with a grain of salt but I think a diamond pattern wont get any more dirty than the pattern already on there and IMHO wont look to busy as long as the diamonds arent too small.
  5. MADMAX22
    The overstitch wheels are used after your done stitching, pricking wheels are different and give a small start in the leather for your awl. Big difference if you havent tried them.
  6. MADMAX22
    I would recommend installing a speed reducer at the same time if you can. Several threads on it. Just switching a 111w to a servo motor isnt going to get the super slow speed you see on alot of videos and maintain any kind of punching power. It will be easier to control compared to a clutch but if you turn the speed all the way down the punching power is minimal.
  7. MADMAX22
    Good job Rac, thats a nice setup. Plus the link belts are a bonus. I put machined pulleys and link belts on my old craftsman table saw, that thing is so quiet now and no vibration what so ever. Extend that arm on your motor actuator and it should give ya even more control.
  8. MADMAX22

    Free Clicker

    MADMAX22 replied to 3rdGen's topic in Old/Sold

    Hope it finds a good home. Great looking machine ya got there.
  9. MADMAX22
    Yeah starting a business is always a headache. It gets better sometimes. Just hang in there and see it thru. Thanks yeah didnt see a location. Not sure what machines go for over there but assuming they could do a money conversion if they have internet available. Ofcourse lots of other things dont play into a simple conversion either. Our money and prices still apply unless ya take into the fact that all Americans have unlimited disposable income (atleast according to the drug companies).
  10. MADMAX22
    Its hard to say as Ive gotten some rough machines that were actually not that bad underneath. That being said its a crap shoot on what ya end up getting. If all it needs is a motor about $150 and a needle bar (guessing about $50 dont know) and it sews good then your still looking at $700 maybe. That is still close to a new clone 1206 ($1000 plus shipping). Now if there are other things which is highly likely then your cost goes up. For a machine in questionable condition with obvious repairs being required I wouldnt pay more than $150 or so tops if it was what I really wanted.
  11. MADMAX22
    What kind of belts are ya making? Some guys like to glue and stitch a bend into the belt and some gun belts are pushing 20oz of leather and stitched with 277 or larger thread. Just saying be aware of exactly what you want to do so there is no buyers remorse. Personally I would look at the max thread and leather thickness you want to make your stuff out of then find the machines that handle that range be it flatbed or cylinder arm.
  12. MADMAX22
    I tried Masters and will get some more again, performed better than barge and was easier to use. One layer and your done, two if you forget and let it totally dry. Its a little thicker than barge but wasnt an issue.
  13. MADMAX22
    Them and those people who come to your house and proceed to knock/ring when you have a big sign on your front door "no solicitors" plastered on it. Had one try and explain they werent soliciting so I asked her to define what soliciting was and she just stared at me all deer in the head lights. Actually had one kid put his hand on the door to try and stop me from shutting it so he could spout his pitch, that poor kid got the crap scared out of em, couldn't believe he would actually do that.
  14. MADMAX22
    Yeah but I would bet if someone took your photos, copied them, then came back to your booth and started selling them as there own you would not be so welcoming of the competition. Could be wrong but I doubt it.
  15. MADMAX22
    I wouldnt say less than $1000, more like $1200-1500 after shipping, can get the 1206 for $1000 before shipping, the 206rb is $1300 before shipping. Yeah the 206rb5 would be a good investment and is suppose to be a nice machine but thats almost a $1000 over budget when counting in shipping. If you find a decent 111 or 211g or a 145 or something similar that still has some good life left you can do alot of projects with it and turn around and sell it recouping most of the cost when the money is there to upgrade. He also pointed out that budget is "important".
  16. MADMAX22
    One thing I would like to point out is that the haft of the BK knives for the price is very nice like his other tools. Big Sioux is right about his stamping tools, very good. If your blade is not very good replace it with another manufacturers blade and you still have a very good package altogether. The swivel is nice and smooth IMHO and is a decent price compared to some other nice ones. If the blade is not to your liking then it is far cheaper to replace the blade with a better one then buy a whole knife.
  17. MADMAX22
    Here are a few cuts with each, the order for all of them from left to right is Unknown, BK, Henley, Tandy The last pic is beveled on the one side of the cut. I tried my best to use the same pressure for cutting and then beveling. Straight cut Little swivel cut and cut the top of the leather to show they can "cut" leather (the top cuts were random pressure, they all cut about the same but obviously arent made to "cut" pieces of leather out) Same straight cuts from above beveled on the left side (BK beveler)
  18. MADMAX22
    Well got my knives out and did a quick few cuts. These are the four knives I have and they all work pretty good. The tandy blade last the least amount of time before requiring stropping, the henley and BK are about the same, the noname old one I have rarely requires anything, I dont know what brand it is but its one of those ones that the blade is part of the knife. I just did a quick case on a piece of WC vegtan to show the different cuts and pics of the blade profiles. In the pic with the four blades from bottom going up tandy, bk, henley, unknown. BK vs Tandy profile Henley Unknown
  19. MADMAX22
    Yes its on the pricing sheet he posted and on there website. You can buy from them if you can make the minimum order.
  20. MADMAX22
    For one because there is already one. Why do you say this forum is laid out poorly yet yours is almost a carbon copy of the layout? Im with Jaymack on this one.
  21. MADMAX22
    Always pays to buy from the tannery if ya can. Still always surprised (ok not really) how much places jack the prices up on the old world harness, scene it literally $150 more per side.
  22. MADMAX22
    I will give ya my advice but there are others who do way more tooling for way longer than I have who hopefully will chime in. IMHO it needs to be very sharp and almost as importantly polished so there is no drag. Now this isnt the same sharp like what you would think of with a "normal" knife. There is no small secondary bevel on it. The rounded profile of the tip needs to just come to a very sharp point. This allows the knife to cut the leather with minimal force while the blade pushes the cut apart some (how much depends on the profile of the tip of the blade) and the polishing prevents it from dragging while it does this. That being said leather wetness and quality also play a huge role in how easily it cuts and tools as well. You can get some leather that is like cutting and tooling compressed cardboard. Not fun. I will try and take a couple of pics of mine tomorrow if I get time.
  23. MADMAX22
    Guarantee ya can screw up simpler designs ..... talking from experience here lol. Heck Ive screwed up cutting a strap. I also bet the second one ya do will be overall much better. Be sure to post it up.
  24. MADMAX22
    Grab https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Rawhide-Leather-Braiding-Bruce/dp/0870331612
  25. MADMAX22
    Lots of people have used the steel wool and it has been recommended by many for years even on this forum. It has the most surface area to react so you get the quickest solution. Also many suggest giving it a bath in baking soda and water mix to neutralize the acids plus it helps with the blackening effect. Thats the way I learned how to do it and it works really well and doesnt have a bad smell once dry and oiled. Another thing that can help with this is give it a soak in something with high tannings like boiled walnut husk mix or any other number of things. Chuch Burrows use to recommend this if I remember correctly. Oh wanted to add that a few of the items I made using this method were still doing well several years later, well except the one made with tandy crap leather but it was still black just the leather was not holding up as well as the others. Once neutralized with the baking soda bath it didnt adversely affect the hardware either.
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