MADMAX22

Be sure to read the new user agreement if your in the US and use PayPal. Hiking fees again, looks like only for US sellers. They also added some more not good things to help themselves out again. Sincerely paypal

Careful with them. If you return something you pay return shipping as well then they review if they will honor the return or not. It can end up costing as much to return something as the cost of the thread you ordered. Oh and if they deem its not there fault for a return and that it needs to get sent back to you, yep shipping again. I ordered a bunch of polyester that was listed as bonded it was not and the sizes they sent me were not correct either, it took several phone calls to get a return setup and it took some persistence to get return shipping covered even though it was a mistake on there part. Ill buy from Bob or another supplier when I order thread again.

Like mentioned depends on what they are used for. A hairdresser isnt going to want a big thick vegtan apron but like mentioned a blacksmith is going to want something with some substance. You also have to look at the cost, a apron can take a pretty good size chunk of leather to make, chrome tan or oil tan thats cheaper or waxed linen with leather accents is another option.

Check this guys channel out as its very similar, heck may even be the same guy I dont know.

The general process is dye, resist, antique. Which types you use is up to you. Here are a few videos showing generically what you want to do. These arent the best videos but I cant find the couple of good ones I had book marked. Still it gets ya off on the right start and go from there. I prefer feibings over the tandy stuff.

Stating where your at would be a big help also as far as shipping and places you can walk into if you wanted. IMHO I would go with Goliger leather or even Maverick leather for single hermann oak sides or backs from a retailer, they are actually relatively upfront about the grade of the leather they sell unlike some other recommended places. Price wise springfield "B" grade is $11sq/ft so roughly $265, Maverick "B" grade is $215, Goliger was $9.80 "A" grade so roughly $235 however there A grade is actually pretty close to an A there "B" grade is $9.28. Wickett and craig has some real nice leather as well, you can look on there website for pricing information. There standard or A grade is real nice and runs $8.68 so about $210 a side. They dont have minimum orders and if all your making is belts order a back from them instead of a side, theres a upcharge but it pays out in not paying for the extra belly that you dont use. Ofcourse if you can float a 10 side minimum order from Hermann oak that is even cheaper per sq/ft.

If you stack foam or similar under your pedal it helps to ease into it, wont be the same as a servo without the speed reducer. That being said a servo really needs a speed reducer to go slow because of the loss of torque at slow speeds but its more manageable overall. You can replace the pulley on the clutch motor cheaply as it probably has like a 3" pulley (or bigger). A clutch motor should have a little bit of a sweet spot that allows you to slowly roll into it. Dikman is right about checking it out some.

Photo not in link but saw your other post. I doubt it "unless" the toe is split like the heel is, if that is the case you could sew the sole on flat then fold it up and stitch both ends but that also looks like it would require a cylinder arm or post bed machine so either way youll end up needing one. A chance if the material was very flexible and stretchy you might be able to get away with a flat bed but it would be a battle each and every time. Done several motorcycle seats that I should have been using a cylinder arm or post machine but still managed to get it done its just a pain and those werent even that bad.

Yeah seems to be the only way, its been brought up here many many times and either everyone says the washer fixes it but none of the distributors of these machines have anything else to say about it. None of them advertise having to put a washer in there to fix it either, atleast not on there websites lol. Guess thats the price to pay for only spending 3 grand on a machine vice 6.

Ya know I think he knows more old leather workers around the US than anybody else here on the forums.

Yeah ecspecially if your only using one size grab a more expensive nice edger. Give Bruce Johnson a call and grab a gomph or old osborne. He doesnt have much on his site right now but may be getting some more in. Also check the fleabay for old gomph edgers and such.

VMT great job on matching that tooling, looks really good.

One thing to consider also is we have no way of knowing exactly how firm the leather was they used, sure we have an idea but remember back then leather didnt come from only young beef stock all the time and the tanning used slightly different methods. Everything we have from that time period has been used weathered and who knows how it was oiled or taken care of. Nowhere near its original feel/stiffness. Still can only be so accurate basically just trying to get appearance and basic construction the same (if thats what your going for) like VMT was saying.

Another way of looking at it is the fact that after a couple few years of wearing a holster in all kinds of weather and environments way way more than most wear them now its not going to look new in a short order. Also I doubt that they were going to be running to the local convenience store and grabbing a new holster every year. Basically a good looking effect without wearing your holster everyday.

Not the same but I went thru the similar problem when I got out of the Navy. Went from working anywhere from 80 to 130 hrs a week (when I wasnt underway) to a job where I work 40-60 hours a week. Cant complain but it took a good solid year to get use to the fact I was coming home every night, that I had weekends off sometimes, that I didnt have to get everything done in the few hours I had off before I left for 3-6 months. Ofcourse now I have a 3 year old and one on the way so dont have much time anymore. Glad you could get organized with more space and a chunk of land. Downsizing the house and having a dedicated work shop is the way to go, ecspecially one nice as that. No more work related dust and debris being tracked into the house, no worry about fumes and such wafting in and the ability to work at 0600 in the morning without waking your loved ones.

Thanks Alex. Its not that my machine is way out of time. I am just going to go thru and check everything this weekend and try and see what I can do about the reverse stitching. Right now I dont use reverse because I have to push the reverse lever up then pull it back down about a quarter inch and if I am lucky it will stitch back into close to the same holes. I did try the silly washer spacer thing but I had to have close to a quarter inch of washers in the top part to get it close. Not sure if this was something that was fixed in the later 4500s (mine is about 5 yrs old) as I see all the advertisement videos showing it stitch back into the same holes without issue. Mine also when backtacking starts sounding really loud and clunky after about 3 stitches which isnt right. This is why I want to check everything starting at the beginning.

Do you have any info you would care to share on this? Not being able to use the juki manual the way it is written because the machine doesnt have timing marks, a few videos I have scene have you setting timing based on parts that are loosened and repositioned to achieve proper timing so to me that doesnt make much sense but I havent done alot of these machines.

I forgot on these that some dont have the normal recessed serial number area. The numbers are basically stamped on almost looks like by hand like what you would do at home with a set of metal stamps. A layer or two of paint would have no problem covering them up.

Dont know about the moss flesh part but do know that if you like going thru goliger call them and let them know what you want. Pretty sure they will hook you up with the standard back. Only thing is you may have to wait a little bit for there next order to come in. Pretty sure they can send ya a swath of the mossed back to let you get a feel for it in person.

Look on the flat bed just below the label that says 211g256, thats where the serial number is on mine however dont be surprised if its not on that list my 211 isnt. Yours almost looks like the bed was painted at some time (weird to have the paint worn off but stop right at the flat portion) so they may have painted over the numbers but you should still be able to read them maybe.

Not sure about that model, I have a 211g155. You lucked out with the reverse however, that is nice. You can see if the serial number is listed on the database http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html which will narrow down the date. With that emblem it should be post 50s Its not really meant as a holster machine, primarily a good upholstery type machine. Dont get me wrong it can handle leather fine, it is just meant for upholstery weight leather, canvas, things of that nature. Unless I am mistaken its pretty similar to the 211g156 (211g155 but with reverse). The feet and feed dogs and what not should be the same as the 111w which are used on probably half the sewing machines available (ok maybe not half but a lot). They are nice machines IMHO and even better with the reverse.

Yeah it looks like a riveted ferrule but I would have no idea where to find them at, pretty easy to make but somewhat time consuming as compared to buying a bunch of them ready to go.

atleast get ya started

Careful applying to the flesh side as it soaks in very fast and you can easily over oil it. As mentioned give it time to even out inbetween coats. I dont think it will really help with getting a better finish however. One note on WC bridle, the finish they apply to the flesh side will have that wrinkly appearance over the very loose grain leather like parts of the belly. I have found when your getting into that part of it its best to split it down some to hopefully get that part off or not use it for important projects. The hides I have used usually dont have much of that portion on them and its always below the back portion of the leather.

There is a long thread on this exact question around here somewhere. Basically couple of methods you can use the vegtan and wet form over a form, the wet leather is wrinkled up to your liking, or use chrome tan leather or similar and some type of glue so it sticks to its shape that you are forming over and to hold the wrinkles you work into it.