MADMAX22

Thanks Chief.

Are you sewing chrome tan or vegtan leather? It will do vegtan that thick but I wouldnt make a habit out of it, chrome tan upholstery/chap leather no problem all day long.

So Ive owned and randomly played guitar for 30 yrs but have never really used a strap. I was planning on making a few (have a pattern may as well right) but looking online its difficult to figure out what method people use to attach them. This is necessary when doing tooling to orientate the pattern properly. So using the "classic" standard pattern with a fixed length end (wide end) and the adjustable length end (skinny end) which end goes up front and which is in the rear? Looking it seems to me anyways it depends on classic or electric and if the classic has a pin installed on the front end. Most of the electric have the wide end up front and the classics have the narrow end up front or a string attached to the wide end up front. Anyhow what do you guys plan for when tooling your slings. Thanks.

Thanks Bob, Ill stick with my 31.

So saw one of these singer 61w for sale locally. I was curious how they compare to a 31-15? I understand the 61w is a fast cloth machine, drop feed. Can you set these up with a wheel type foot and use it in place of what you would use a 31 for? The 61 looks a tad stronger in pics anyhow. Thanks for any info

Ive tried that before because I was on my last spool of 138 white and needed it to do a job. I gave up after I had a rat nest on the floor the size of a small pony. That would be nice. Does that tend to work pretty well?

Probably just about everywhere will be cheaper than tandy. In most cases a common tool or supply that is deemed a specialized component to a craft also includes a huge markup. I believe I ordered a roll of 2ft wide tracing paper off of amazon maybe (its been a few years). I have it hung up on a piece of wood rod and just pull and cut a section when I need it.

Forgot to mention atleast with bonded nylon black thread is notorious for having "issues" or should I say not playing well with sewing machines all the time. I need to restock, Ive got some older bonded nylon and probably a third of it started doing the sticking thing. One spool would stick just on one side and would cause a stitch pull up every single 8 stitch which coincided with the sticky side of the spool.

In my experience when the thread starts sticking on the spool its done for as far as machine use goes. Even if the thread stand is adjusted properly you will still get the random stitch that pulls up top when ever the thread sticks, sometimes it will be like every 5 or 8 stitches pretty consistently. Not all bonded thread is created equal and there is no telling how old or its past life before you got it.

For that price getting a new machine that you know the past of is a plus, having a true compound feed machine, readily available support, readily available parts, currently in production, parts available from multiple resellers, yeah I would personally get a new machine. If it was something like an older machine that was worth restoring say like a needle and awl machine, or a nice old singer harness machine I would probably think differently just because I like the old iron machines and like to see them get a breath of new life. That said the only experience I have with the Bulls are threads here on the forum.

Leatherworker.net , Not just current threads but doing proper searches going back many years results in alot of good information. The encyclopedia of rawhide and leather braiding https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Rawhide-Leather-Braiding-Bruce/dp/0870331612 if you want to do any type of braiding. The Al Stohlman case making series is very good basic information. Most of the projects arent applicable to todays leather working however the basic construction is very useful when applied to your own projects.

He has already been in contact with pilgrim, in his other thread he was able to source a manual from them. Maybe forgot to ask and wanted to thread it over the weekend or pilgrim doesnt know much about this particular machine.

I would start by trying to contact any of the oldest shoe making places that you can. Pretty sure this is an exclusive to shoe manufacturers so anyone out of that circle who knows details of use are gonna be far and few inbetween. Even then it may be a 1 in a hundred or more chance.

Keith I would still be careful, your using a 3/4HP motor with two unprotected shafts which can cause some serious injury. A simple mistake with the wrong clothing or a slip and ya can find yourself in a bad situation. Sure it may seem difficult to hurt yourself on these things but it can still happen. Not as easily as with say a buffing wheel but I personally would give it a little more respect.

Thanks, appreciate it.

Thats cool, just wondered if they would atleast handle leather applications.

Do those work in leather? Up to what thickness?

Does it sew say quarter inch of leather correctly? Ya probably need to tighten the presser foot pressure (silver threaded guy on top with the lock nut on it), cranking that down some. It may not be tight enough allowing your project to lift as the needle comes up thereby not forming a loop big enough for the hook to grab. This video shows just about most of the things to adjust on these machines. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkxZlczFqRY&t=300s May need to adjust the banana bar also unless it is otherwise feeding correctly. Im sure Wiz or Bob or other sewing machine mechs will chime in.

Like his value added statement not sure those two go hand in hand How does imprinting add value? Adds extra dollars to existing sales Additional markup is pure profit Encourages purchase of more items per visit Attracts new customers Boosts impulse purchases Makes any item non-returnable Increases repeat customers Advertises itself

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=+rifle+scabbard+lining+material+site:leatherworker.net

Good call Bob, I forgot those had auto lubrication. Only scene a couple that a buddy had gotten for his wife. Those things are speed demons in there natural form.

I gotta get one of these made for a friends wedding present. Yours looks really good. Alot of nice stitching. Mind sharing what insert you used, there are so many to choose from.

They are cheap if you get them from overseas, think about $40, just takes a few weeks to get them in.

Take the head off the table and take downstairs first, that takes away 40-50lbs. Grab another person to move the table which probably has a clutch motor which aren't light. Two people walk down stairs with the table. That's what I usually do.

Thanks, yeah the pics posted do look better than the work in the video I linked. Lots of experimentation. One thing to look at besides the dying/painting that he does is that there is a lot of texture work on the leather. Background and even the carved portions have a lot of texture added to pick up the antique. A good resist is also very important to ensure the dyed portions can be cleared of the antique. Have you looked at Xian leather at all, he does some amazing work as well with dying and antiquing (leather work in general). Slightly different style but similar.