MADMAX22

Above points being valid that juki looks really nice, assuming you get it for a fair price you can always sell it and recoupe most if not all of the initial cost. If its in as good a shape as it looks and at a fair price I would jump on it IMHO. That machine can do alot of stitching of various items. From what I have scene most of the new china machines you loose a few hundred bucks just getting it delivered to your place (not counting shipping). Granted they are new and should have a warranty and a life line theoretically however if you have issues with a used machine theres always Uwe videos and leatherworker.net.

Post a picture anyways. Its always good to get some outside critique even when you think you know all the mistakes you have made. Sometimes we tend to dwell on little things being craftsman and all.

Ive got some pricking irons on the way (will be my first), Ive used pricking wheels since I started about 8 years ago and have always managed. The edges with ostrich knee arent that bad. I glued with weldwood or similar then stitched, ran the edger over like normal then burnished using similar method as Hidepounder does in his how to thread which is a recommended read if you havent already. If I remember correctly it was 6oz leather with the ostrich on the front side only. The back piece was I think two layers sandwiched together because the belt loop was cut into the outer piece.

Man I hope not or else were all screwed

Its been a while but if I remember right I dont groove the ostrich. Its pretty thin to begin with. If you run your pricking wheel over it a couple of times the points should be somewhat easy to see. I really like it as a inlay where none of that matters but it also works good for the outer layer. One thing for a sheath I personally would go with atleast 5-6oz under the ostrich otherwise it wont be very sturdy. Wanted to add that as long as your groove matches the thickness of your thread it wont matter because you shouldnt be able to see it. If your grooving a dark color say black or dark brown and the groove is lighter I use a paint brush and dye the groove with something like cordovan or similar color and it gets rid of the difference. Then stitch as normal.

Yeah mine the bobbin case is pretty loose but still held together. Its not as old as yours, 1946 if I remember right and its in good shape. Never intended to buy one but I saw it on CL for $80 so jumped on it. Dont see em for that price very often anymore.

Traditional loan. No way in hell would I ever get a loan that charged me the full interest regardless of when I paid it off. Who ever is dong the LTO is acting like a used car sales financier. They are setting it up so regardless how you do it they get the bonus check if you do pay it off OR they get the machine back and however much money you have "leased" it for. No thanks.

I thought it was the other way around, most people thought they would make less money, work harder, but not have to deal with a bunch of money hungry greedy A-holes telling them to cut corners and screw people over to get more money.

Its probably Uwe's video. He has several good ones for adjusting various machines.

My 31-15 will handle 92 thread "max" but I dont use it for anything more than 8oz or less, softer leather usually wallet interior type work. The exterior gets the 111w155 to bring it together.

Horween does have colored leathers, look at the Essex line I believe it is. Also try talking with the Hide House. They carry a ton of lines of leathers. Springfield doesnt carry anything you cant find somewhere else and usually at higher quality and a better price IMHO. Not to mention the fact lots of other places are more squared away as far as fulfilling orders and shipping.

Pretty sure that those French hides they use are vegtan just alot different than say HO or WC veg we are all use to. I forget some of the names of those imported leathers (buttero leather comes to mind) but if you want to try US tanneries than a split down bridle/harness/regular veg or one of Horween leather selections would be your primary source. Horween makes some various combination tanned and vegtan leathers you could try.

For edge coat Ive found that a small brass rod works really well. If applying die I use those foam brushes (small 1inch ones), pick them up at harbor freight when I can for like a dime a piece or so. Cheapest place Ive found em.

Danny Marlin Knives 1550 County Road 207 Blanket, TX 76432 Phone: 254-842-5405

Yeah I would go for that one as well, I didnt look that far out just took glance at the local area.

In your area I would get this over the 111 for what your doing http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/5964036770.html it has reverse, looks like a good machine, and comes with a servo motor already. The 206RB new is going to be a nice setup that will do what you want and can handle a little thicker thread. It would be the way to go if you have the money to spend on it. No question as to its past and depending on where you get it there is a warranty with the machine.

I am not sure if they are still being made or not but you could try calling Danny Marlin knives just do a google search for his contact info, its not hard to find. I have one of his head knives and it is a very good knife. one of my users.

I would venture to say the roller foot (big wheel type) are to allow you to place the stitch line right next to an edge, to allow moving the material around while doing decorative stitching, and to an edge and it allows you to easily see the needle as you do so. If doing regular spacing away from edge or center seams the other feet could be used.

Great looking little machine ya got Rayban. Agree stick within its limits and it'll probably be passed on once again after your done with it.

Make a square of wood the dimensions you need the inside to be, take thick cardboard and start folding it around tacking it in place. Make cuts and what not till it looks about right. Take the cardboard off and lay flat and there you go, fine tune it and your good to go. Al Stohlmans books on case making are very out dated "however" are very good for getting the basics figured out that you can apply to other projects.

Also try and get the submodel of the adler. Yeah they are nice machines but have a bunch of different variants of the 105 if I remember correctly. OP its not hard finding a used 441 clone, they seem to pop up here on the forums in waves, none for a little bit then 2 or 3 or 4 all at once. I have a bad habit of looking at CL in various areas and have scene a few, some for way to much money, saw a long arm version of the cobra 4 (cobra 5 maybe) that someone had to sell fast because they were moving/transferring out of state for like $1200 in very good condition.

If your doing it by hand you could do a baseball stitch or cross stitch or .....

I wouldnt say cobra is the big dog here any more than cowboy, techsew, neels. Its just a 441 clone. OP figure out what your making then knowledgable guys and gals here can recommend all kinds of good machines for you. Saying bags leaves way to many variables.

Angle is determined by how you hold the awl and stitching the same very time. I have marks or use a reference point on mine I will rest above my thumb. Some people will grind down one side of the awl haft so when you hold it you hold it the same way. Atleast thats how I do it.

Kydex from what I have heard is not ideal, neither is the metal strips. Some have used various types of poly strapping that is made to bend and flex without getting brittle and doesnt eat away at the leather or stitching. Thats just me doing a bunch of research. I have yet to use any type of liner besides leather. I have used horse for the inside layer which makes a very stiff belt. FIrst and foremost use quality leather then start thinking of adding random liner materials. You have to remember that everyone is going to claim there way is the best and throw out all kinds of opinions why that is the ultimate truth. The liners are a good sales pitch and if spun the right way makes a regular dual layer leather belt sound like it couldnt hold a derringer for more than a couple weeks without falling down to your ankles (although I garuntee this aint the truth). Ofcourse I am just a veteran "weekend crafter dude" so dont listen to anything I have to say.