MADMAX22

That turned out really nice and yes celtic knot work is a challenge to say the least.

Nicely done. Was wondering did you dye it or use vinegaroon.

This is the light sheath to go with the gerber sheath. I didnt get around to finishing the tape measure sheath, Ill get to that later. HO, little thicker leather about 7/8oz, DK brown but took the dye a little darker then the other one. One thing I messed up on thats obvious is the tack holes from the wet forming process, I missed the would be stitch line. By the time I got to that point though I went ahead and finished it anyways. This is a favor for a buddy at work other wise normally I would redo something like that.

Thats really amazing. Great job. Love seeing your work.

Looks to me like it is just tacked in place. I would take some leather of choice (looks like suede splits in the pic) and personally I would glue it on then tack it in place with those little brass tacks. You can find them at hardware stores pretty cheap. As far as the actual pattern for the shape probably the easiest way is get some cloth and spray just it with some spray adhesive let it get tacky and put it on so it doesnt stick permanently then trim it to the shape you need. Pull it off and now you have a rough templet to use.

Looks good Roger, alot of stitching huh.

I had that issue with my seat that I did the braid on. Had to take the mallet to it for a bit to take the rise off the round braid just a bit. Now its no big deal but at first it was just a little to round. Something I was reading about, apparently thats why levis (when they were american made) and wrangler had the seems on the outside of the pant leg vice inside like most pant makers do nowadays. This would prevent it from rubbing your leg while you were in the saddle. When they moved levis to being made in mexico they started putting the seem on the inside like all the other cheaper brands of pants. I think most wranglers are still on the outside if I remember correctly. Would have to ask a cowboy for that one.

Just my personal experience I tried resolene and did not like it much at all. Im not a fan of the acrylic sealers. That being said some people have good luck with it. I am pretty sure I went ahead and tossed my little jar of the stuff. Lately Ive been playing more and more with sno-seal. Its kind of similer to picards and maybe the bee natural stuff. Anyways it seems to work pretty well if you let it dry over night then buff it out and then add one more light coat. Oh and just wanted to say I usually seal up the liner as well I just dont dye it.

Thanks bex DK, I had a look threw your thread and that style looks pretty interesting.

Maybe there was originally a shim or washer under the cover where the bolt is located. Would have no idea though without seeing a tech manual or old pic of one.

Those look killer bad pics or not. I would like to see some better pics, but the overall design looks very good.

WOW dude.

Thanks Storm. I think with my next set after I finish these I'm gonna try the single layer of leather with the belt loop cut into it via two slits. I think it may be pretty strong and should save some time. Putting the belt loops on these seems to take up most of the time lol.

Well havnt posted in a bit, been busy and had leatherworking on hold for a while. Here are my couple of projects that I just finished up. The gerber sheath is Dk brown in and out. Its gonna be part of a set with this, flash light case, and tape measure case. The glasses case is gonna be included with a case for a couple deck of cards once I get that ball rolling. Its saddle tan. The inside is lined with pigskin. Both projects are HO and after dyed are oilded, coated with a light coat of neatlac and tonight will get a thin coat of sno-seal. Also would like to thank Ed the bearman for his glasses case pattern he posted a while back.

Chuck's instructions have worked for me for the past couple of years. Ive scene several of my projects that being only a couple of years are still in excellent shape. One thing to note is that different hides will react differently in all areas. Ive had some get a little tougher and need alot more oil while others had allmost the same temper as before I blacked them and they only needed one normal coat of oil before the finishing process.

US Navy here, sub mechanic. Pretty much a really bad job with long hours but if I can put up with it for another 10yrs Ill get a decent retirement. Before I joined at 24 years of age I had a multitude of odd jobs, bookstore, reptile breeder,builder of campers, flight line, aircraft mechanic ...... guess I needed to join the military so I would settle down a bit lol.

Looks ok. Did you clean the finished product before dying it? Clean it with some alcohol or some deglazer, let that dry then dye it. Also when you finish and buff it out then apply your oil, and then your finish coat this will alter the way the dye job looks a small bit. Doing the whole process will give ya a better idea of what the overall finished holster will look like.

Thinking about it. Is this the 21 thru 23 of may correct. May have to take some leave and go on a road trip. If I bring my scoot I wont be tempted to blow all my money lol.

Well the few that I have made I usually try to do the liner in natural vegtan. This prevents the inside from bleeding any dye onto the cloths or person. This leaves only the edges that can bleed over. The way I do my edges is dye, get some soap, then wax and burnish by hand. Once this is done I will run over it again with a little more wax and burnish again. I have used atom wax and then I really like sno-seal. I will do a coat and let it sit overnight then do another coat. This seems to work pretty well and I have not had any bleed off on the belt I wear everyday. Neatlac if you can find it or the new version (forgot what it is called) works very well for sealing up leather.

With the sample pack you will probably be mostly looking at doing inlays of some kind. Look up Dave's post (DCKNIVES) and look at all his work. He does mostly inlays. There are some others that do the same. I wanna say you probably wont get anything big enough to do full covers, the inlays wont require as much leather. Ive only done a few inlays here they are, old work though as Ive learned alot from this forum since I did these.

Very good job, looks like a two in one good idea. Excellent work with the tooling.

Rocky you do some amazing sheaths. Ive been looking at all your pics you uploaded and thanks for doing so. They are a inspiration of what one should strive for IMHO. I do not know if you have the time to do so but if you should have you considered doing a tutorial on sheath making. I understand everyone is different however any knowledge you feel like spreading around would be very much appreciated by many I am sure.

Gotta through a little advertising for Ed the bearman up here as well. Ive got two of his mauls (a set) and love them. He is reasonably priced, actually very reasonable for custom handmade stuff and he can work with you to get a maul that is setup just for you. Definatly worth pming him about.

Make sure your awl is sharp. When you sew it youll end up basically going around the beads. They are pretty much impossible to go thru. Its not to bad though.

Nicely done, looks like the horse hide takes to the vinegaroon pretty good.