MADMAX22

Well I must say I have been missing out. I got around to trying out some of the stuff I got. Mixed about 60bees wax and 40rosin, with about a teaspoon of olive oil. I only have some hemp thread unwaxed that I used it on. Wow what a difference. It is so nice being able to control how much wax is on the thread. Made for easy threading and the thread layed down very well. I know this isnt much news to those that do this all the time but for us beginners I must say give it a try, youll be very happy you did.

Those are some nice looking wallets. Good job.

He does make some nice mauls. Ive finally gotten around to using mine for a few projects and love em. So much nice then the mallot I was using. They have a crisp clean smack, feel really good, are balanced great for my use. Im really liking my little guy also (got one of the sets), that little guy is great for the small stamping beveling where you dont need a big amount of weight.

Yeah did a good job. I like the look of that knife sheath, it just has a cool apeal. On the wet forming did you use a press or just a block and finger/hand tool work? Came out real nice.

I use atom wax alot and it will pull up dye if not dried properly or if there is extra dye ontop that didnt get absorbed into the leather. That being said I have noticed the same thing with tan kote and resolene. As Ray stated sometimes the leather wont absorb it in certain spots. That or there could be something from being out at the retail store on the leather. I noticed this alot more with tandy leather. One thing you could try is some oxilic acid or whatever it is, lemon juice and water also or a good deglazer, variouse methods. I use alcohol on mine to clean it up. Still this wont help if its a tanning process that is the culprit. When I do my atom wax I usually start with a thin layer quickly applied. Let that dry, buff it out, then come back with a thicker layer. I do about three coats and let it sit over night to dry up nice and good. Then buff it out.

Maybe thats why I cant find them anywhere. Seemed like it would be a good idea but as with anything if its poorly executed then it aint gonna be worth much. Ah well.

That looks really good. The carving is nice and clean and the lacing looks superb. Good job.

I cant seem to find one but isnt there a setter that has two little blades that you use to basically cut the two holes for the spots then you push the spots into place and bend the tabs. Seems like that would work better then the above setup.

Great looking holsters. That design is very advantages for hiking, camping, hunting type activities as it really protects the firearm. Once practiced with it you can still get a decent pull time on the weapon as well.

Thats a nice looking seat. Great job.

I like it, I think you got the colors just right for the design and everything. Really clean construction as well. The art that you did, is that something you made up, is it based off something else. Looks kind of different but pretty cool.

You do some very nice work. Good job.Where you located? Should update your profile.

That actually looks pretty good. Looks like there are alot of possibilities there. Thanks for sharing. Oh and did you do a finish on it as well. Wondering how it will look once oiled and finished. I think you could get a really cool old school look to it.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Dave I get mine from http://www.closedcel...m/neoprene.html , Ive gotten a few orders from them, kind of slow shipping but great product. Ive gotten a sheet of 1/8" thick which I found to be about just right for slings and such. At first I tried some thicker stuff but the 1/8" with a bevel on the edge covered in 2-3oz suede seems to be just the right thickness for comfort without being to bulky. I used there 3/4" stuff for my motorcycle seat (layered it up). Oh and they are up on ebay if any one doesnt feel like making there own or just want to check them out and need a sling. They wont go for too much but Ill recoup the price for the supplies. One of these days Ill get around to getting a website together, once I get out of the military lol.

Got my rosin in today. Nice amber color, cant wait to start mixing and matching with some bees wax. Been wanting to try it for a while now. I think the rodeo place still has the sale going on. Got my 2 lbs worth for $14 shipped.

Thanks for the input guys. I like handstitching now that I have become more comfortable with it and it suits my needs for what I make. I just never found much info on the differences or why. Everything shared is very helpful. Marlon I stitch starting with the right needle first and come towards me, with the face of the project to the right so I am allways going thru the front of it first. The main reason I asked was Im looking at getting some plain linen thread and wanna try my own wax/rosin mix on it. I really liked the way the waxed linen thread lays and want to experiment further. That knife sheath looks like it is holding up very well Kat. NIcely done.

Finished these guys, 8 oz herman oak. Really like this leather. So easy to work with. The floral was my design and it needs some work. A little to thin. Neoprene padded with suede back. Hand stitched. Comments, questions, critique welcome. Thanks, Corey

Thanks Jim, guess Ill stick with the right hand twist then since Im right handed.

Great looking stuff, you did an excellent job on that stitching.

Could you post some pics by chance. It will help.

Everytime I use steel wool it dissolves in the mix. Sometimes you will get some smaller grains that stay behind that settle out on the bottom. THis usually takes a little while though.

OK so I know you can either get left or right hand twist thread. I assume that with machines there is a reason for choosing either direction but I have no clue as I dont have one. Now for hand stitching using the saddle stitch with two needles which is the only way I stitch is there a reason for choosing either left or right twist thread. Im guess its probably a pretty easy explanation but I cant seem to figure out how it would matter. Thanks for the input.

Some very nice work. I think some of those saddles are amazing. I dont even want to know how long it took to do the one with the rifle scabbard and rifle cover. I dont know about the boots though, dont get me wrong they are amazing work, it just seems to flashy for my blood I guess. I would look more for a nice style, with less colors lol. Thanks for sharing, much appreciated.

By chance do you have any pictures. Are you letting your work sit after oiled for 24 hours or over night. When you first oil something it gets really dark usually but then lightens back up once the oil has properly soaked into the work. I use to and still do struggle with getting the finish correct. For now I am at finishing the work and letting it dry a few hours, then I dye it. I usually let this sit for minimum of a few hours. Then I oil it and let it sit overnight. Then I do my finish and antique or whatever.

Gotta make sure you wash the steel wool because its usually coated with stuff. Rinse it off real good and thats about it. I think temp plays a part in it also. Did you give it a stir, try out a piece of leather and see what happens. The vinegaroon that I did didnt turn black for some time but would turn leather black even when it was lighter in color. I just realized your in alaska, is your garage heated? I think being at room temp it will work alot quicker then if its at a really cool temp, not sure what the temps are up there.