Thor

Oh sorry, I thought you wanted to show that there is a rawhide liner on your tree. Just doesn't tell you anything about its condition though. Once you removed the straps and took the whole thing apart you'll see what it's like.

The rosettes can be found here http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-eur/home/department/conchos/4131-178.aspx. I would assume that they used 1-1/2" above 1-3/4". The red latigo straps are here http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-eur/search/searchresults/4752-00.aspx. You'll have to measure how long you need them. You can check this section on your local ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Leathercraft-/75565/i.html?Type=Leathers&_dcat=75565&Sub%252DType=Hides for the latigo straps. It may be called different in the UK I'm not so sure about that. Some things are named different in the UK than elsewhere.

I'd be very hesitant on doing that. First off those old saddle trees may or may not have a rawhide cover. Second, if they do, you don't know in what condition it is. You may get too much water onto the tree. I left one of my saddles out in the rain once, cause I had to get out of the bush... Took me quite a long time to bring it back to life. Needles to say that it never looked the same as it did before. Maybe it be worth to order this issue of the leather crafter's journal http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=162. This has been suggested to me. Since you decided to replace the straps, and yes it is latigo leather. It usually comes in red and yellow. Since yellow are the ones used on your saddle you might want to find those. I'd use 8 to 9 oz. or 3 to 3.5 mm. To replace your rosettes you will need 2 different sizes. You will get most of the stuff at the UK Tandy Leather store. You can phone them up and talk to them. They are very knowledgeable and helpful. I usually phone them before I order in Spain as this is the way it's organized now.

Again pretty cool. Too bad the stitching came off track there a bit. Other than that top-notch!

So here are some pictures of my saddle. Mine is number 2 of that saddle maker. Number one can be found at the Williams Lake Cowboy Museum in British Columbia and is dated to the 1880s. I hadn't used it for years, but after the fact that it fits a horse got through the SPCA almost perfectly I started using it again. All I've done was cleaning it well with a glycerin based saddle soap and oiling it a couple of times. As you can see it's due for re-cleaning and oiling again. It's not uncommon if you cannot find a saddle makers name for such old saddles. Sometimes you may just find initials on some place of the saddle.

Usually I "measure" the circumference of an object and make the thread 4 times as long just to avoid the fact that I might have to end and restart. Some parts should be dyed before you put them together. It would make the slots look nicer. For whatever reason I don't even think that the walking marks are disturbing here. That may just be my impression, but it looks like you are not pulling equally on the thread and the stitches look a little uneven to me.

Researching the forum may help and you will find this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57101 Fiebing's is a global player and it is available in the UK just as well ans anywhere else in Europe. If you can't find a good dealer in England, let me know and I'll give you mine in Germany. They will be happy to ship to the island. In regards to your crack - it's sad to see a "sibling" to my saddle in such a condition but this is what one gets if it hasn't been cared for. From what I can see, your saddle is built a lot like mine, just different hardware. I would take it apart and strip it according to Wenny's suggestions. One advice of caution should be given. Water will dry out your leather, just as oltoot was pointing out already. The straps would have to be replaced unless you want to use it for display only. Remove them carefully if you want to reuse them. The skirts should come off fairly easy. You might want to consider replacing the shearling. If so, you could recondition the skirts a lot easier as it should be done from both sides of the leather. Good luck with it and it be great if you could post pictures as you progress.

Welcome to the forum. Could you tell me the name of the company on the green wrapped thread there? I wonder who that is. Thank you.

Very nice! Just 2 comments. The handles fold over could be skived (would be nice if that area would have been dyed black as well) and the greyish area (maybe caused by glue) on the gusset.

He may have used d-rings on the back Troy or attaches the strap with Siemens air-hooks

Hey Bonnie, still think they are too pink, but good thing you didn't post the picture where the guy was obviously exited about them

Don't know if this is the right place to show off hunting trophies...

Impressive! Where abouts are you again? Guess I should visit Russia one day. May I ask how much you charge for a belt like this?

Those covers look nice! May I recommend a stamp over a tag for the Made in USA? Those tags rip off in time.

There's not much to say to those pictures. They are self-explanatory. I stripped the box and cleaned it up a bit. Will have to clean it a bit more and then start adding some reinforcement to this cheap box.

The answer to your question really depends on your desired use and result. If I hear heat I'm thinking of color, gold and whatever application. All of this would rule out the hand-operated machines unless there is some sort of electrical heat hooked up to it. If you are doing large quantities you might want to check with this UK company http://www.pw-merkle.co.uk/leather_cutting.htm. Also for the wetting part I would say yes, for sure with the hand-operated machines. I would try both methods first before running any sort of series. And just because this company is based in Europe which might save taxes and customs fees http://www.pethardware.com/en/embossing-rolls-machine/ I'm adding this link. I forgot to mention that the CZ store has it from Ivan. You'll find that here http://www.ivan.tw/index.php?route=product/product/detail&id=9727. Orders below $5000 will be subject to a surcharge. It may be worth it if you want to add all the embossing rolls as well.

Haven't found it on Tandy's UK site, but here it is on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tandy-Leather-Speedys-Belt-Strap-Embossing-Machine-3800-00-/121557214641?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4d5fe5b1

First and foremost it would be interesting to know what kind of animal you're talking about and if there's a cites requirement if you hold the appropriate certificate.

I'm not exactly sure what he referred to, but subdued seems to be wrong. The word describes a mood or situation more than the physics of wood. Never mind German is a horrible language. I guess he's referring to steamed wood, which wood make more sense in regards to the shape of the clamp. However, if one wants to take up on that stress, go for it. Build a steam box, cook the wood, bend it in shape, clamp it tight till dry and you're good to go. Instructions on how to can be found online. Engineered wood and especially LVL is the better choice in my opinion. Steaming and bending of the wood weakens it due to stretching and partial braking of fibers. On Walter's pictures you can see that the core is reinforced with plywood. I'm not sure what kind is used there, but it looks like beech plywood. LVL comes in various dimensions. Ask your local supplier what he can get you and make a decision then. The thicker the more expensive. It may be cheaper to buy just 3/4" sheets and make them the thickness you want. Another option to me would be to shape a 4 x 6 or whatever the actual dimension is and reinforce with a 1/4" or 1/2" LVL on either side. Saves money and time. For the US and Canadian fellows, I'd check LeeValley for the hardware. You just may be lucky or again make it yourself.

Now that I completed my last project a messenger bag http://leatherworker.net/forum/uploads/gallery/album_2589/gallery_58609_2589_83152.jpg, I had to find something new to learn on and increase my skills. I found it yesterday as my daughter wants to have a new saxophone bag. Needless to say, we made a deal. She gets a new bag and I get her old one to pimp and sell. My idea thus far is to strip the case down to the plywood and Styrofoam. Replace the black velvet with brown and the nylon webbing with leather of course. There are only a few things I'm certain on how I will be doing it thus far. I want to make rolled edges all around. The front will receive the saxophone player silhouette. That will be embossed and dyed in dark brown. The general color of the case will be a lighter (~ 50%) mahogany. The rolled edges might be dark brown as well as the thread I'll be using. I will include backpack straps in the same style as shown in the Stohlmanbook on cases for the golf bag. Won't be using shearling, but foam for the cushioning. It will receive a top handle (not sure what kind yet) and carrying handles like it has now, just made of leather and more upscale. I'm thinking of adding rollers to the base so that it can be pulled if needed to. Not really sure about that part. General purpose of the whole project is to improve stitching, learning how to make rolled edges (did read the various threads already) and not to throw something out, that basically is still good. For those of you having experience with rolled edges. Would it be good to install a core or just don't? Any advice on this project is welcome and much appreciated.

RFID information can be found on any spy prevention page. Even intelligence services pages offer information. Bottom line is simple. The person has to get pretty close to you to read the RFID chip. About 1.5 m or 5'. The most simple solution is aluminum foil. Not the household grade! Tons of information on it https://www.google.de/search?q=rfid+blocking+aluminum+wallet&oq=RFID+blocking+al&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.8937j0j7&client=ubuntu&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8&gfe_rd=cr&ei=DngKVZD4Jou2-Qbh2IDICA The question to ask is, do I need the RFID and can I disable it? How that's being done can also be found with the above link. If you really want to screw with it you could build a RFID scrambler/jammer, what ever they are called. They are also available on the market.

Is that price for the full set?

Randi, until you have your book... http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page97.html kingsmere has pretty much everything on lacing.

Walter, Tom und ich sind nicht die gleichen. Er sitzt in Calgary und ich bei Stuttgart. Aspen ist zwar eine Pappelart wird aber bei richtiger Trocknung extrem hart. Kein Vergleich zu unserem Pappelsperrholz, das dafür tatsächlich ungeeignet wäre. Mein erster Beruf war Schreiner ;-)

she's more the picture type Camano Here you go Randi http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page100.html Besides I like that design Buttons. Well done!