Thor

Those covers look nice! May I recommend a stamp over a tag for the Made in USA? Those tags rip off in time.

There's not much to say to those pictures. They are self-explanatory. I stripped the box and cleaned it up a bit. Will have to clean it a bit more and then start adding some reinforcement to this cheap box.

The answer to your question really depends on your desired use and result. If I hear heat I'm thinking of color, gold and whatever application. All of this would rule out the hand-operated machines unless there is some sort of electrical heat hooked up to it. If you are doing large quantities you might want to check with this UK company http://www.pw-merkle.co.uk/leather_cutting.htm. Also for the wetting part I would say yes, for sure with the hand-operated machines. I would try both methods first before running any sort of series. And just because this company is based in Europe which might save taxes and customs fees http://www.pethardware.com/en/embossing-rolls-machine/ I'm adding this link. I forgot to mention that the CZ store has it from Ivan. You'll find that here http://www.ivan.tw/index.php?route=product/product/detail&id=9727. Orders below $5000 will be subject to a surcharge. It may be worth it if you want to add all the embossing rolls as well.

Haven't found it on Tandy's UK site, but here it is on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tandy-Leather-Speedys-Belt-Strap-Embossing-Machine-3800-00-/121557214641?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4d5fe5b1

First and foremost it would be interesting to know what kind of animal you're talking about and if there's a cites requirement if you hold the appropriate certificate.

I'm not exactly sure what he referred to, but subdued seems to be wrong. The word describes a mood or situation more than the physics of wood. Never mind German is a horrible language. I guess he's referring to steamed wood, which wood make more sense in regards to the shape of the clamp. However, if one wants to take up on that stress, go for it. Build a steam box, cook the wood, bend it in shape, clamp it tight till dry and you're good to go. Instructions on how to can be found online. Engineered wood and especially LVL is the better choice in my opinion. Steaming and bending of the wood weakens it due to stretching and partial braking of fibers. On Walter's pictures you can see that the core is reinforced with plywood. I'm not sure what kind is used there, but it looks like beech plywood. LVL comes in various dimensions. Ask your local supplier what he can get you and make a decision then. The thicker the more expensive. It may be cheaper to buy just 3/4" sheets and make them the thickness you want. Another option to me would be to shape a 4 x 6 or whatever the actual dimension is and reinforce with a 1/4" or 1/2" LVL on either side. Saves money and time. For the US and Canadian fellows, I'd check LeeValley for the hardware. You just may be lucky or again make it yourself.

Now that I completed my last project a messenger bag http://leatherworker.net/forum/uploads/gallery/album_2589/gallery_58609_2589_83152.jpg, I had to find something new to learn on and increase my skills. I found it yesterday as my daughter wants to have a new saxophone bag. Needless to say, we made a deal. She gets a new bag and I get her old one to pimp and sell. My idea thus far is to strip the case down to the plywood and Styrofoam. Replace the black velvet with brown and the nylon webbing with leather of course. There are only a few things I'm certain on how I will be doing it thus far. I want to make rolled edges all around. The front will receive the saxophone player silhouette. That will be embossed and dyed in dark brown. The general color of the case will be a lighter (~ 50%) mahogany. The rolled edges might be dark brown as well as the thread I'll be using. I will include backpack straps in the same style as shown in the Stohlmanbook on cases for the golf bag. Won't be using shearling, but foam for the cushioning. It will receive a top handle (not sure what kind yet) and carrying handles like it has now, just made of leather and more upscale. I'm thinking of adding rollers to the base so that it can be pulled if needed to. Not really sure about that part. General purpose of the whole project is to improve stitching, learning how to make rolled edges (did read the various threads already) and not to throw something out, that basically is still good. For those of you having experience with rolled edges. Would it be good to install a core or just don't? Any advice on this project is welcome and much appreciated.

RFID information can be found on any spy prevention page. Even intelligence services pages offer information. Bottom line is simple. The person has to get pretty close to you to read the RFID chip. About 1.5 m or 5'. The most simple solution is aluminum foil. Not the household grade! Tons of information on it https://www.google.de/search?q=rfid+blocking+aluminum+wallet&oq=RFID+blocking+al&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.8937j0j7&client=ubuntu&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8&gfe_rd=cr&ei=DngKVZD4Jou2-Qbh2IDICA The question to ask is, do I need the RFID and can I disable it? How that's being done can also be found with the above link. If you really want to screw with it you could build a RFID scrambler/jammer, what ever they are called. They are also available on the market.

Is that price for the full set?

Randi, until you have your book... http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page97.html kingsmere has pretty much everything on lacing.

Walter, Tom und ich sind nicht die gleichen. Er sitzt in Calgary und ich bei Stuttgart. Aspen ist zwar eine Pappelart wird aber bei richtiger Trocknung extrem hart. Kein Vergleich zu unserem Pappelsperrholz, das dafür tatsächlich ungeeignet wäre. Mein erster Beruf war Schreiner ;-)

she's more the picture type Camano Here you go Randi http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page100.html Besides I like that design Buttons. Well done!

Are you talking about the Fir plywood you get at Home Depot? That wouldn't work. None of the needle trees, except for larch and northern Fir would work. With Douglas Fir I'm not sure. It has to do with the length of the fibers. Any hardwood will work. In your area it would even be possible to use well aged Aspen. Comes cheap and once dried it has excellent features. Beech or Horn beam is only used here as it comes cheap and has excellent features for tools. The better tools have Ash handles. It's also a lot more expensive. I'd be very interested in the patterns as well as this is what I want to make next just along with a draw-down stand. I agree the hardware isn't too hard to make. Stainless steel will do the job and is easily available. Nothing to thank me for Tor. I've lived long enough in Canada to know what it's like if some information is missing. All the great work has been done by Simon anyways. I find it just amazing how helpful Walter is and the generous offer to share his templates etc. @Walter Walter hast du die Schablonen auf Papier, oder sind das Holzschablonen? Ich könnte die evtl. einscannen und weiterleiten. Die Hardware müsste man halt ausmessen. Sieht nach einem 10mm Vierkannt aus. Feder, Klemmbügel usw. Zur Not finden die aber auch sicher etwas bei LeeValley, das genauso gut als Klemmbügel funktioniert.

Wow!!!! That's calling for a tutorial. What an amazing job and definitely some of the best tooling I've seen thus far. Hats off!

Sorry but that's not right. It does apply to this particular page somehow but for different reasons than what you stated. If you only had 33500 visitors in the past nine years and you're barely having any visitors according to Alexa a day it means it's unimportant and has no value. The name really doesn't matter. One could name a website shittyleatherworks.com, but if you would have 10,000 visitors a day at 1% conversion rate it would be important. All the rest is SEO stuff most people don't even understand and this is what makes a website important and valuable. Further if someone wants to takeover the business and wants to have past customers still find him, he would want to have the domain just additionally to his new one and reroute the visitors to the new domain. Therefore there is a small marketing value, but that may not be of any interest to a prospective buyer. Something far more important is your customer list, if you have one. This is worth a lot. Don't know for the USA but it may be illegal to sell it to leads companies but the new owner is allowed to buy it. Therefore I'd make that a sales item.

Okay that translation lost a bit of the actual meaning, therefore I'd like to fix it, but be brief with it. Walter offers to provide the templates or give them to someone in the states so they can be passed on from one person to the next. My two cents... Forward them to tboyce or ask him if he'd be willing to make a digital pattern for everyone to download. One thing that should be mentioned is either where to get the hardware or how to make it. Besides Walter, your English is much better than most of these guys' German. @Walter Ich glaube es sollte noch erwähnt werden wo die Beschläge zu erhalten sind, oder wie man sie selbst macht. Solltest du Hilfe benötigen, um tboyce zu erklären was du möchtest, kannst gern schreiben.

No need trying to improve this translation Simon. This is pretty accurate. I guess everyone gets it. Centimeter converts to inch as follows 1" = 2.54 cm. Therefore 80 cm ~ 31.5", 85 cm ~ 33.5" and 5 cm ~ 2". With big ones, he refers to the actual stitching horse, not the pony. The chair kind. With plywood he refers not to just any kind of plywood. The appropriate German term is Multiplex, usually made from birch. This would be so called Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminated_veneer_lumber. Very durable material.

I would say it depends. Longer torso, steeper angle. Shorter torso, lower angle. Does that make sense? You could have him hold his current knife in convenient position and go from there. Won't get any more customized than that.

You're not supposed to have your fingers above the stitching hole... If it's tough leather you have to sew, you could get a sewing palm. Looks like this: All the rest is just practice. You might want to get a stitching pony in which you clamp your material.

How about just posting the link to it in the text? If someone wants to view it, he/she will just visit that link. Seems to be kinda odd. Or you'll grant someone remote access to your computer and let him fix it for you.

Saddle bags I can help with. I'm using 8/9 oz. of good quality leather. Now, I don't want to limit this to any kind of leather since I've seen them made from various types. I like the buffalo ones just as much as the cow hide ones...

Now they're the right direction. I'd say it's a roller. Too much in there speaking against hand tooling. There's no area which is uneven - meaning that it's all the same depth for the same object. If there is a guy around being able to do such a uniform background by hand, I'd like to go and learn of him. Looks a lot like this here. Or you just follow this link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/119178630/handcrafted-embossed-leather-eagles-belt where it says embossed.