Thor

I'm currently working on a "new" design for a western saddle pad and am looking for some more input. New is very relatively speaking as there isn't all too much that would be new, but rather addressed differently for the comfort of the horse. What are you guys using for your custom pads? Like, how thick are your pads, materials used, do you prefer shaped ones or rectangular ones, do you have any special considerations in regards of venting, vertebra, withers, shoulders, lumbar area etc. Do you use different or multiple layers? And so on... Just throw everything at me here please as I'm collecting all the information at this stage.

Differences at a glance right on Juki's website http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/leather_e/cylinder_e/ls1341_13427_1342.html Main difference is the speed and vertical movement.

This is one of the coolest things I've seen on here thus far.

Other than that go to My Settings - Notification Options and make the appropriate adjustments.

Look for Fiebings. No customs issue at all with this product. Check with one of the horse tack stores in your area. Forgot where you are located, but Tandy Leather Canada has it for sure.

Just line it with deer or goat skin. Much nicer feel.

I second what Art said and my second best choice would be box calf leather, but definitely prefer latigo leather as it is much more durable.

Really good looking stuff chief. For your lacing, you don't bevel, do you?

Well, you don't want to hear this I bet, but you should start to actually change something in your work. I will save a comment on your roper wallet, as if you'd be honest about your work and design as well as the used material, you'd know it's not what someone would be paying money for. If it would have been done by a 10-year-old as a fundraiser it would make about $15 but that's just to help on the material cost. The lady buying it would throw it in the back of the truck and find it again once the truck is being sold or goes to the junk yard. BTW. material - the leather looks like you've gone to Tandy and asked for some scrap leather and the guy gave you the left-overs of the last century. The interior of that wallet proofs your statement. You threw it together. There's no love to the trade nor your product. At least I cannot see it in there. In regards of tooling. I know it's tough to tool such thin and crappy leather - one good reason not to use it at all - but in this case you should have just not tooled it at all. I don't want to leave you with just bashing on your product or practice piece, but would like you to improve. Therefore please get familiar with quality material and how to use it properly. Post you stuff to "critique my work" for more feedback and review products of other people on here. There are some really nice wallets on here you could learn from. Check them out and compare them thoroughly to yours. You'll see in no time where you can improve. Good luck!

That's a very interesting question. Since I don't live in the US and a law suite like this would be impossible in Germany unless one could proof that the use of the holster did cause an increased risk and the incident would have been prevented by not using the said holster, there wouldn't be any liability on the maker of that holster. That being said, in the states you just never know (caution hot coffee; don't put live animals in the microwave; cruise control will not stop or park for you...). But on the other hand one could say that riding a horse poses the same risk and a saddle maker would have to have such a disclaimer, yet I've never seen such a disclaimer. However, if in doubt and you want to be certain you should seek the advice of a lawyer and not that of a fellow leather worker, cause none of us will pay your bills if you run into a problem.

https://books.google.de/books?id=n0rCAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA201&lpg=PA201&dq=lee+robinson+saddle&source=bl&ots=_nj_LoFJwv&sig=4X9t0vMNrNdKC3HF922dUKfUM1s&hl=en&sa=X&ei=sc1kVYO-HofXUeSZgdgP&ved=0CCIQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=lee%20robinson%20saddle&f=false The description sounds likeyour saddle.

Very nicely done!

How would they be copyrighted? The prospective copyright holder is long time dead and an ancestor probably unknown or proof of such impossible. Further, since you're in the US it would be considered public domain anyways. A totally different thing is a photograph of such drawings. The photograph would be copyrighted, but the drawing isn't and can't be. That means you may use the drawing on these pictures as a template or inspiration but mustn't republish the photograph. Read the definition of copyright below. It isn't as complicated as some people try to make it at times.

I'd say that's just acrylic paint and a good brush paint job. Isn't even too hard to do. You'll apply the second color while the other still kinda wet.

First question would be if you are sure it was stained. https://www.google.de/search?q=leather%20wood%20grain&num=50&newwindow=1&client=tablet-android-lenovo&espv=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sboxchip=Images&sa=X&ei=jnlfVeCSG4rSU5zCgeAI&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=800 This one is embossed http://c745.r45.cf2.rackcdn.com/img/2009/hlaska_wallet.jpg But if you're looking for staining I should tell you about an old old trick we've used when refurbishing furniture that should work on leather as well. Look for any of these https://www.google.de/search?q=wood%20grain%20brush&num=50&newwindow=1&client=tablet-android-lenovo&espv=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sboxchip=Images&sa=X&ei=jnlfVeCSG4rSU5zCgeAI&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=800

The one on Zack White's page is cheaper than you can buy them for in the UK. Even with import and shipping charges it's worth looking into it. It's $595. However here's one from the UK http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk/productdetails.asp?ID=1492

You can use 135-17 needles with this machine. For further info I suggest the Beissel conversion chart for needle systems.

Product sheet at the end of that page http://www.pfaff-industrial.cn/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/cylinder-arm/pfaff-335-17-mit-einfasser 134-35 LR

Excellent painting job! Would like to see step-by-step pictures of something like this to learn from it.

What's the width of each strand? Either you have one of these http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-QNYBzv3TZs/maxresdefault.jpg or make a home made one yourself. That should do the trick. Saves you about $3000 for the clicker press and dies ;-)

Don't know if this helps you any, but check out this source http://emscat.revues.org/1552 there's a saddle made from a solid tree. However the wood seems to be from South America.

When you are speaking of a dehumidifier are you speaking of an electrical one or one of them plastic boxes? Either way your air is not going to be really dry, just not damp anymore. I'm having one running all year round and no issues at all. Another way of storing your leather would be hanging instead of rolling, but takes up just as much space if not more.

If the colors are not altered too much by the camera it should be mahogany.

Those are two different techniques. The first may be just antique gel or the background being separately colored with a brush and antiqued then. The second one is a filigree and a colored liner in the back.