Thor

As electrathon says, there's a huge difference from the Tandy and whatever cheap round knife stuff to a proper round knife and if one used a really good round knife once he won't touch the other crap again. There will always be people trying to justify what they are doing and it may even work for what they are doing. Interestingly it's always the same kind of people. And electrathon is right one can use a Passat instead of a pick-up, but you'll notice very soon that the car will be overloaded in no time. The round knife still serves its purpose and its use must be trained to really muster it. Some people just aren't able to use it right and say you don't need it. Again for many uses an exacto knife or roller knife is just fine. Learning to use and master the tools of the trade sets the professional apart from the others.

Sorry I'm on the run, so I'll keep it brief. Review the circled spots please. None of your cuts are straight and non of them are "clean". You are either using a dull carpet knife or some other not so sharp tool. Did you use a strap-cutter at all? It may be personal preference in regards of the square corners. I don't like em and they will wear off in no time and don't look nice. A handle on a dog collar vs. a harness serves no purpose as you should always be able to get a hand between the collar and the dog. No matter how hard it may be to size the liner correctly it's definitely not the right way to have it to big and cut it afterwards. It just looks shitty. And one can tell on your result that you were unable to apply sufficient pressure to the leather to make a clean cut. If you're rounding off edges at one piece you should do that for all the others as well. 6 rivets in this little piece of leather is a bit overkill, plus what you wanted was to increase stability. Perforating leather doesn't make it stronger. I guess one last advice for your liner. Fold it over before you stitch it and it looks a lot cleaner and more professional. Probably missed a few things, but I'm in a hurry and this should and will hopefully help you. Sorry for the upfront comments.

Yeah interesting design, even though I don't see a real purpose for it. Anyhow, you need better tools and stop chewing on your liner. Looks like you ripped the leather which I feel makes the overall appearance not so great.

Looking good. Chief what's the spacing on your holes?

Neck knives have their use and simply adding a belt clip could turn it into a nice boot knife or wherever you want to carry it. Shortening the para cord and adding a snap hook wouldn't hurt. This way you can have a strap for the neck or one for over the shoulder, or simply hang it from your vest or backpack or whatever. Besides that, the sheath looks good to me.

To be honest Chief, compared to your other work it looks like you rushed this one.

That would probably work for hair stylists as well. Very nicely done!

This is the artist https://www.facebook.com/StanleyauLeatherart you just send him a message and ask.

A piece of old hardwood or barn board. This is just stamped with something like that. Too many actual real detail in there to be made with a leather stamp. Where the board is "broken" it was cut and stamped. The rest of the texture was probably modeled after "stamping". I believe we had this in another thread before. The softer portions of the wood can be removed with a "brush". You'll need a machine for this. It will bring out the wood texture a lot more and you'll have a negative for this. You can tell on the picture that this is what was used here as the indention is where one would expect a rise. He then touched it up here and there and that's the whole trick. I'm quite certain you'll find an old barn board at your location some place. Good luck with it.

If you take a close look at the front you'll see a single lace over each of the middle pieces. I would expect a second one where it's covered and then being simply glued in place.

It probably depends on what your favorite topic is and how much detailed information you want or need. I like this guy here: https://www.youtube.com/user/cheaneysaddles/videos may be better for your wife, too

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

I have seen some on Google Documents recently. I believe my search phrase was "service dog harness" and led me to i. e. http://www.google.de/patents/US7281363. Other than that, you could use the current vest as a reference and build one from scratch.

https://youtu.be/mkqwROOr8bg Hope it helps.

Aren't you going to France sometime soon? Stop by in Germany and buy your tools here. Power converter alone doesn't work as we are having a different Hertz frequency as well. Shipping within Europe isn't an issue. If you need help finding something, let me know Mike.

If I dye, and I'm not an expert on dyeing, I do it after all mechanical work, but before setting hardware and before burnishing. I will buff it again after all hardware is in place. Hope this answers your question or someone else has a better explanation.

The problem is that it is water soluble. I had those issues as well and at times I'm making use of this issue to give it a more vintage look. I haven't found a reproduceable solution, but what I do is letting it cure for a few days and go very gentle about the finish cote and give it a good polish after another few days. Other than that great job on the cover.

Fiebings has a product named bag kote which is pretty much what you're looking for.

I believe the technique is called sunburst. You can either achieve it with airbrush or with very careful use of a brush. Very nice job on those sheath!

Or 5 mm which many of us are using... If I'd go electrical I'd buy something more heavy duty and professional looking at least.

Guess I have to throw this in there. It would have been good if you added a welt. The way this is now, cutting the stitches may be the result.

The only thing that could really be argued with are the walking marks caused by your beveler. In this case I'd be using a smooth beveler and not a textured one.

It may be easier seeing pictures to at least get an idea what it might need. Hanging for x years and not being treated at all brings up the question if it dryed out to a point where it's beyond repair or not. I generally oil my tack from both sides (grain and flesh). If I would do the same in this case? I don't know. Definitely I wouldn't do it all at once. I'd ad a layer at a time and let it cure to avoid getting too much oil on it. On chaps I would only add a thin layer on the inside as I don't like it on my jeans. If it comes to the oil being used... personal preference! To some it's like a religion. I read that some people like using olive oil, others used canola oil... I usually stick to products I'm getting with my local leather wholesaler.

How badly do you want it? Looks like the manufacturer is Fenice in Italy. Tandy seems to just sell it under his own name. On the other hand it looks like Raisin Mahogany is just reduced Dark Mahogany with a very slight touch of purple. If you really, really need it, here's a supplier in Germany still having it https://www.rickert-werkzeug.de/de/Farbe-Pflege-Kleber/Leder-Antik-Finish-Eco-Flo-Hi-Lite-Stain.html?c=119. They will ship to anywhere in the world, but I wonder if that would be very economical.