Thor

Hello, don't know where you're from and what your first language is, but probably not Japanese. However, here are some really good books with step-by-step instructions. http://goodsjapan.com/books-21-c.asp This book http://goodsjapan.com/leathercraft-book-my-first-leather-items-on-learning-leathercrafting-1630-p.asp may be just what you are looking for. I don't read Japanese either, but the pictures are self-explanatory. Some things are even written in English and in metric dimensions.

I could be wrong due to the picture but the handle looks a little rotten. Anyhow the handle can simply be replaced. Push out the brass pin and pull off the handle. Now either you make a new one yourself or try to get a replacement handle from Osborne or just replace the brass ferule. The least you'll need is a new brass ferule and new brass pin.

Very nice!

As Jeff in his bright enriched wisdom said, it's hard to tell for how long leather has been wet or how long it takes to have the right amount of moisture throughout the leather. Various factors such as room temperature, thickness of leather as well as the initial amount of water etc make it hard to give a proper estimate on time. The six hours I mentioned are based on my personal experience and definitely not based on any scientific facts... Usually I'm wetting my leather on the evening, bag it and let it sit over night before I touch it for cutting. After cutting I'm bagging it again, let it sit until it almost returned to its natural color and bevel it then and so on... If I get to a point where I have to re-wet it I'll do so with a slightly wet sponge from both sides of the leather and bag it again. Wait again until returned to its natural color and continue to tool. Yes this is time consuming, but there's always something else to do in the meantime. This link takes you to hideponder's write up on casing http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121 Just remember that each time you're adding water to your project you'll always remove some oil from it as well. Use as little as possible and as much water as needed and don't forget to oil it once you're finished.

I should probably say my own experience of messing around with too wet leather. He's probably used a Craftool backgrounder stamp and if you inspect the background thoroughly you'll see how it bulged around the individual impressions. Happens if the leather is too wet and the casing process not completed or if people think they have to re-wet the leather and have no patience to wait until it settled and distributed evenly throughout the leather.

Being known for upfront comments... Your leaves and acorns are good. The acorns could benefit from additional cuts on their tips. The background was far too wet when tooled. To me it looks mushy. Especially on the second picture it's very visible. You should have let it dry for at least another 6 hours. Review hidepounder's explanation on casing and you'll understand what I mean.

If you click on the pictures at Barry King's website they'll show the dimension in fractional inch. Just like so

Due to the design of your sheath I would have used an angled basket weave stamp. One like this would compliment your design better in my opinion.

There are a few patterns in the pattern section of this board. At least one of them is a long/biker wallet that has an alternative pattern for upright cards.

Pretty amazing Tim!

It's not the setting, your lens/you targeted the cutting mat. Check the upper right corner

It is and it isn't! If you review the strap as well as the keeper thoroughly you'll notice that it's diagonally symmetrical, which is odd, but kinda cool too. http://leatherworker.net/forum/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-49501-0-62127200-1445742795.jpg It's not what I would have done, or what many people would do, but I think it sets it apart from other bags. I'm curious to learn about his reason for doing that.

Maybe the most comprehensive but also the most unavailable one Better using this link http://andersenleather.blogspot.de/2015/10/classic-english-briefcase-with.html

I wouldn't want to see English points or round strap ends on this bag to be honest. A bit of measuring or a template for the ends would be good enough. It's a nice and clean bag. I like the content of your bag. Now your nick makes sense to me

Try this http://www.boxandseal.co.uk/products/stock-boxes/cardboard-sheets-stiffeners/solid-greyboard-sheets-760mm-x-1020mm-225mm/111/

This is a chair/stool I bought recently and I have to say that I love it. You sit straight and upright and it feels really comfy.

Please try the search, there are at least two threads covering this topic.

Very nice!

Rohn, I marked the most noticeable areas only. A stem isn't flat on the surface, it's round. Same goes for the rose butt itself. Assuming you used about 6 oz leather for the holster there's not much material available for deep impressions. If you are using a modeling spoon you can shade certain areas to get the visual impression. The main thing is to turn your current 2D carving into a more 3D carving. If it wouldn't be a holster I'd suggest using a lifter/undercut or pro petal to raise some of the leaves to get more depth, but proper shading with a modeling tool will fool the eye just enough. On that rose butt I marked, you beveled, but in the wrong direction. If you would have faced it the other direction there you would have gotten a "round" impression. With all that being said, that's critiquing at a level you are at, which is high, just to help excel.

I'll download the pic and mark it for you once I'm back on my computer.

We've been successfully hiding until you found us Looks like you won. Welcome to the forum.

Good job Rohn. Just one thing, if you decide to not bevel lines that should be beveled, I would at least use a modelling tool to get a better accent to that line and more depth into that picture.

Looking very nice.

TechSew would be a Canada based company. I believe they are in Quebec (I may be wrong). The 5100 is a 441 clone. This link takes you to their page http://shop.raphaelsewing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30_40&products_id=577