Thor

The one pictured is basically made like a chin strap. Other than a chin strap the use of a wither strap is questionable. This search offers some samples https://www.google.de/search?q=wither+strap&client=ubuntu&espv=2&biw=1314&bih=818&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIwJrGyde3yAIVpphyCh0Png1K Now, before making that strap and of course it has to be left to the customer, the only purpose of this strap is to raise the breast collar straps with none custom made breast collars or not really fitting ones. This being said, the strap may cause irritation, skin irritation as well as pressure to the withers if fitted too tight or once the pressure occurs. If it would be my customer I'd suggest a custom fitted breast collar or fit the current one properly for her. My humble opinion, and it pretty much applies to all gimmicks, if you need one, there's something not right and it's better to fix the cause than making a band-aid fix and causing another problem. Problem here can be explained with simple physics. A breast collar's purpose is to hold the saddle in place and prevent it from sliding back. So there's a direct force to the breast muscles once the rider comes off balance or in some tight and fast turns, as well as with roping. If one attaches a wither strap it will act like a anchor. Some of the force that is intended to be carried by the breast muscles will be forced onto the wither, which we actually try to avoid. Now to your actual question. The strap has to free up the shoulders from the breast collar straps, which can cause irritation to the horse when moving fast. You see that if the breast collar fits, this strap isn't needed at all. But to make the strap the correct length, have her attach a rope to the rings and raise the straps to the right height and measure that distance.

Recommended leather thickness for purses is 1 to 3 oz. and 4 to 7 oz. Depending on style/size and use of course.

...seconded. Other than that, don't buy a plastic bone folder. Buy a real bone. It may be a little bit more money but worth it. The mini punch set is nice for a start, but once you're getting into punching holes of various sizes you'll find out it's annoying having to change the tip all the time...

It's not only the tanning method that can cause issues. Also the type, pig skin, deer hide... can cause issues. On some chrome tanned calf skin I had decent results with a soldering iron. Various tips for the soldering iron can be found on eBay. Make sure to get the brass type if you want to give it a try. I've seen them in stainless steal but it takes a lot longer to heat it up and may cause discoloring. Monica, Tandy is just the reseller. Fenice is out of Italy (http://www.fenice.it/index.php/en/) and they used to make it exclusively for Tandy Leather. Since it can be found on etsy and elsewhere now as well as this information has been removed from their webiste I guess that contract has run out.

Just a very rough sketch to show you how it's made. Of course the individual items are skived, glued together and so on.

They are two individual pieces sewn together. The main or large piece with the sides folded or molded to the inside and the surrounding piece which is sewn to that main piece as well as to the sides of the bag.

That sure is a unique set! I wouldn't have the patience to sit down that long. Hats off to you!

Can't read Swedish either, but that's German and fenice is an Italian company which used to make the fenice edge paint exclusively for Tandy. DS Leder is one of the bigger German retailers in the saddler and leather industry. In fact they usually provide better tools and material than Tandy.

Welcome to the forum and to a trade/hobby that's just as varied as the people practicing it. As you said you're off to a good start and I don't want to start writing down everything I observed on your sheath and leave that to someone else. You're right about the basketweave tooling and I believe one of the best explanations on how to make it right is a video by Tandy Leather and George Hurst https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQcH2A6wxgc. This video should tell you all you need to know about the basic basketweave stamping. Good luck!

Another question. Was it spirit or oil based dye?

Sure just check their website here http://www.ykkfastening.com/products/zipper/ in my humble opinion there are YKK zippers, then nothing for a long time and then all the rest.

YKK zippers is what I would suggest. They never failed on me and are available around the globe.

This is just so cute!

Very nice! The border stamp in your last picture, who's the maker please?

The interior on this last picture is very nice!

None of the given would be an option to me. Either you purchase some real quality leather like Herman Oak through Weaver Leather Supply, contact Wicket & Craig via their website at http://www.wickett-craig.com/preview.html or buy just any of what you listed there except for the Tandy stuff. 1. If I can't choose what I get, I don't go there as this is the only point of buying local. Every piece of leather is different and retailers know that and the good ones take that into account. 2. Whether you need a side or neck etc. depends on the product you're planing to make. The various areas of the hide have different properties. 3. Straps, depending on use - like belts, are best cut out of the back. That being said, I know plenty of people cutting belts from double shoulders.

Head knife and round knife are two different knifes. A round knife looks more like a half-moon and a head knife like a quarter of a circle kinda...

I'm not a fan of the Sheridan Style, but I let you know what I observed. You need to learn to make your cuts out of the wrist and the motion (swivel) of your fingers rather than trying to do it out of your shoulder and elbow. Even though the leather might not look like it, but the print marks are telling me that the leather was too moist. To get rid of walking marks you can use your beveler and stroke the bevel after. Don't start on any of the backgrounding before you didn't finish the beveling. Leather can and should be a little more moist for beveling, but not as moist for backgrounding in which you don't want to be able to see the individual stamp prints. If the leather is too moist you'll see those bulges as in your picture.

Pro Leather Crafters sells online on their own page and via ebay. Their prices are reasonable. Or you just go here on BK's website http://www.barrykingtools.com/page8.htm. Eventually a member of this forum, Bruce Johnson, may be able to help out as well. Equipped with better tools I'd be very interested to see what you will make then.

I agree that, for the stamp (looks like tandy basket weave) being used, this is the utmost result. Placement and alignment are very accurate or more accurate than what one gets to see on here lately. If you are going to buy a new basket weave stamp don't settle for anything but the best, which in my opinion are made by Barry King.

They're not raised, just properly beveled. Good job as usual Andy. What font type is this please?

Rohn, I noticed that none of your products are ever stitched. How long does it take you to lace such a holster? Also do you use glue at all? Was the design given to you by the customer? I feel that's a lot of backgrounding. Good looking holster though.

Trying to back up a weak position with even weaker arguments isn't very helpful. One could play golf with a baseball bat, but where in the world would one do that? And just to show you how poor the arguments are... American drivers think they know driving until they come to Germany and realize they don't. It's just as poor... I guess we can all agree that certain jobs require certain tools even though some tools may give you a satisfactory result as well. I agree that for the stuff Jeff is making no special tools are needed. In fact for what he's are making a strap cutter, a box cutter and maybe a few clicker dies would be sufficient cutting tools (not considering the SK as a special cutting tool). I'm using a custom made round knife and wouldn't want to use my box knife anymore, even though I did use it permanently before that. There will always be arguments for and against certain tools. The round knife has to be really bad as it is being used for centuries already... Since I don't like that car/truck sample, here's my take: One can build a log home with an ax only, but if one knows how to use a chainsaw for the same job, why wouldn't one do so? Replace the ax with a box knife and the chainsaw with a round knife. For certain tasks the box cutter's blade is just too unstable and is like a nutshell on the ocean. It may not be visible right away or for the inexperienced person not at all, but the mistakes will be there. If one wants a clean edge, the first step is a very clean cut and this is best done with a good round knife. With the one I'm using I'm just rounding the edges, some quick burnishing and done. When I was using the box cutter I had to sand a lot, which is not what I wont. Being fed up with all the Tandy stuff, I should say that I wouldn't consider the Stohlman knives a very good quality. They are ok. A really good knife will go through leather like butter and real muscle force will not be needed. This is why you're able to make good turns just on the flow and the ones which really mastered the tool will think twice before buying a clicker die for the job unless they are getting into mass-production. The use and knowledge about professional tools will show in ones work and so does the use of cheap tools even though the persons don't want to hear that.

As electrathon says, there's a huge difference from the Tandy and whatever cheap round knife stuff to a proper round knife and if one used a really good round knife once he won't touch the other crap again. There will always be people trying to justify what they are doing and it may even work for what they are doing. Interestingly it's always the same kind of people. And electrathon is right one can use a Passat instead of a pick-up, but you'll notice very soon that the car will be overloaded in no time. The round knife still serves its purpose and its use must be trained to really muster it. Some people just aren't able to use it right and say you don't need it. Again for many uses an exacto knife or roller knife is just fine. Learning to use and master the tools of the trade sets the professional apart from the others.

Sorry I'm on the run, so I'll keep it brief. Review the circled spots please. None of your cuts are straight and non of them are "clean". You are either using a dull carpet knife or some other not so sharp tool. Did you use a strap-cutter at all? It may be personal preference in regards of the square corners. I don't like em and they will wear off in no time and don't look nice. A handle on a dog collar vs. a harness serves no purpose as you should always be able to get a hand between the collar and the dog. No matter how hard it may be to size the liner correctly it's definitely not the right way to have it to big and cut it afterwards. It just looks shitty. And one can tell on your result that you were unable to apply sufficient pressure to the leather to make a clean cut. If you're rounding off edges at one piece you should do that for all the others as well. 6 rivets in this little piece of leather is a bit overkill, plus what you wanted was to increase stability. Perforating leather doesn't make it stronger. I guess one last advice for your liner. Fold it over before you stitch it and it looks a lot cleaner and more professional. Probably missed a few things, but I'm in a hurry and this should and will hopefully help you. Sorry for the upfront comments.