Randy Cornelius

Nothing beats real wool for comfort, feel, and quality. I got sheeps wool on all my chairs in the shop and a piece in my recliner in front of the TV! And I do put it on all my saddles.

Barry King makes some nice ones, different sizes and reasonable priced.

Yes he is, I bought one from him in Sheridan, but have not had a chance to do anything with it yet. It comes with all the hardware. Can't remember the cost.

All I know is that my last order that I had took over 2 weeks to get it. Very frustrating. RC

OK the first rule with black is don't use it. I try and steer everyone away from black because of this problem. If you have to use it dye it blue first then come back with the black. That is an old trick that an old saddlemaker told me. I have used it with limited results. Buff it really good. I then come back with a light coat of oil and let it dry overnight. The oil will let the black soak in deeper so as to not rub off. Then buff again with a clean white cotten cloth. If it comes off black keep rubbing. I like to seal with Neat Lac but that is slick as mentioned before. What type of black are you using. I use fieblings oil dye. I have had the best luck with it. Other dyes just don't work as well. I have even tried clear spray wood sealer. But don't know about a seat that has to flex a lot. Good luck with this one.

The rough side will hold the rouge better than the grain or smooth side. But you can do it either way. RC

Yes you can do edges with a Tandy, I used one for years. But there comes a time in your life where you like the feel of a good professional tool. The the Ron's edger you will not have to sharpen it very much, it will not drag, snag or leave rough edges like a Tandy. Tandy tools are great for someone just starting out. I still have several on my bench. If you ever have a chance to use a Ron's tool or any other Professional grade tool you will see and feel the differnence. I agree that most leather work can be done with entry grade or tools with very good results, just don't go all out at first. Buy just want you need and the grade you can afford. Buying leather tools is a disease, my wife says it'a an addiction and she has sought professional help for me but it has not done any good. I am an addict!!!!!! I love tools, I have to have them...LOL Randy

Welcome to the group, keep on posting.. Great piece of work. Randy

Here is my suggestions to do what you are wanting to do. Knives, a good round knife a good point knife you will use these a lot. Strap cutter, also buy good one as you will use it a lot. Edgers, a number 2 and / or #3 , CS Osborne or tandy will work but I bought 3 Ron's edgers and just love them well worth the money. A 4" X 36" table top style belt sander. I use this to sand all my edges. Well worth the investment. Needles and thread, sometimes you just have to hand sew something. Rivits and setters, get an assortment. Jiffy rivits and copper rivits and burrs. Dye, assortment of colors saddle tan & Mahogony is very popular with my customers. Finish, Super Shene or Tan Coat works good. Some type of edge dressing to coat the edges after you burnish. Saddle Soap and old denin or canvis to burnis the edges. Basket weave and border stamps your choise. Cement, I use Duall 88 but some prefer Barge. Hope this helps

The general rule is that once you start carving you want to keep it moist. But just like all rules they are made to be broken. I have been called away from a carving project and it has dried completly and I have re-cased it and continued on. I have not had any problems in doing so. But there are some who will disagree with me. You just have to do what you have to do. I would case it lightly, use a spray bottle so as you put on just the amount of water you need. Be careful not to get too much water in the tooled areas where it sets and soaks clear through. I think you will be fine. After it is completely dry again come back with a very light coat of oil and then let it come back to the natural color before you apply your finish. Randy

I've been waiting for mine for a couple of weeks. Every time the UPS guy goes by without stopping, I want to cry I think they still ship FedEx

I am not too sure on this one. Some of the things you say may be typo's but I will tell you how I do a project such as yours. First I will stain the leather with Feblings Oil Dye. That is all I use. I have tried the others and for consistant results I will use nothing else. Let the stain dry for a couple hours to overnight. Next apply 2 coats of Neat Lack, several minutes apart. You said you used Saddle Lac, I think they are the same product. Make sure you let this dry completly. Next I use Feblings Antique Paste. Apply a with a piece of sheeps skin and rub into all areas. Let set for several minutes and then use a cotten cloth and wipe away excess. Let this dry for several hours and then come back with another coat of Neat Lack. I think you left too much of the antique stain on the project by wiping with a credit card it may have left too much and it cracked and fell out. Also you should have sealed the back side with something or with the saddle lack being you were using it. I think the water soaked in from the back side. I know I did not have a diffent answer to you problem but I hope I helped some. Randy

#1 When I want to order a good piece of leather for a project I will call Wickett & Craig, I have yet to get a bad piece of leather from them. It is also very consistant, the same leather tools the same way every hide you get no matter if it's been a month or a year since you ordered from them. As said before they will split to whatever thickness you want at no extra charge. They have 3 grades and I have used thier #3 and it was not that bad for the price. They have very large hides. Most I get are 25 sq ft or more. got one that was 29 sq ft one time. WOW! #2 My all time favorite is to go shopping at Sheridan, there are so many vendors and people to shop with. The experiance you get from getting to touch, feel and look at the product and to talk to the people at the booths makes this my top favorite. You can go around to all the major leather dealers and get samples, go back to your room and tool the leather to give it a try. Sheridan Leather Outfitters also falls under this catigory as they are right there at the show and the store is just right down the street from the Hotel. Vandy is great to deal with, and good looking too! #3 Seigel's , I have bought some of Seigel's saddle skirting when on sale and have been very satisfied and you cannot beat the free shipping. But they do not carry a good selection of lighter weight tooling leather. Thier sales people are not the most knowledgable. But never had a bad experiance. #4 Springfield Leather, they have a little bit of everything and then some. If ever through Springfield Missouri be sure to stop and say HI to Kevin. Looking for a small piece of something give them a call Kevin is a pack rat and will come up with something. A lot of one of a kind items that once it's gone it's gone. #5 Weaver Leather, they have some Friday specials and over stocks that are really good deals. They tend to be lower on shipping than others because they are in the midwest and close to me. Good selection and have Herman Oak and other imported skirting. #1 place to buy hardware. #6 I have to memtion Thoroughbred Leather. Jeff is a really honest and Nice guy to deal with and he has always treated me right. The leather is top notch for imported. Prices make it a good value. He is one of the money people who bought out Hide Crafter. They now carry his leather there. #7 Jerry Vanamberg Leathers for Shark, stingray and snake skins. Also a nice guy and honest to deal with. He comes to Sheridan so he is also up there under #2 I have never had a bad experiance with any of the above vendors and would reccomend them to anyone. Well I am sure I have left out someone. I do shop around. If I have a certian project I will look for the best leather at the best price. Sorry this is so long. Randy

If I were wanting to burnish the edges I would use veg calf skin to line the project as deer skin or any other crome tan will not burnish to the glass edge you would be wanting.

Most of the time I will not pre assemble the patterns, this tends to tear or where the patterns but if it is something out of the ordinary I have been known to do it. But I do not glue as that would run the pattern. Use binder clips that you can get from the office supply and assemble with the binder clips. I also use the binder clips to hold the leather together as I sew. I have to give credit to Bruce Johnson on this one as he is the one who suggested the binder clips. I now have them all over my shop. They are used to clip everthing together. They are like a second set of hands when holding projects. Well I kinda got off topic. RC

For stamping tools, Barry King has the best deal around by far. Very good quality stainless steel and the price is very good also. There are several die makers around that could help. Texas Custom that is already memtioned. Also Weaver Leather is now making cutting dies. Exocitic leather I use VanAmburg Leathers 310-453-5766 vanamburgleathers@verizon.net He has a very good selection of Shark, Stingray, snake and others. RC

I also have some things that she sent me, Is it OK to post those things that were her's? I don't want to get into trouble. Randy

I have my first saddle, ride it all the time. I plan on keeping it and never getting rid of it. Sometimes you have to look back at where you started to see where you are going... I still have that first Bag Tag kit I made in grade school in 1972. I look at it and sometimes just to see how far I have come. Randy

Get an assortment of needles to sew the size of thread you will be sew and will sew in the future. I would suggest 138, 277 and 346. Get several bobbins you can never have enough. I think I have 8-10 with several different sizes of thread and colors. Get the right single foot for doing your cases so you can sew up next to a case edge, Like sewing a mag pouch etc. You will have to grind some off the foot to make it work. Also the double foot for sewing belts etc. I have never had the hoster plate. Been doing a lot of holsters without it so I cannot advise if you need it or not. You will be very glad you bought it. I have been pleased with mine and the customer support is great. Randy

With a smaller bottom threat you can sew longer before rewinding bobbin.

I use 346 top and 277 bottom for all my saddle work, skirts, breast collors etc. also for my larger gun holsters and belts. For a med sized holster and belts I use 277 on top and 207 on bottom. For chaps, purses and checkbook holders I use 138. The smaller sized thread makes a nice looking job on the smaller projects. I even use 138 on some headstalls and dress belts. But a lot depends on what I happen to be making and what thread is already in the machine when I turn it on. Bottom line anything will work as long as it is sewn right. But I would not use 346 on a purse.

If you are lucky to have some large scraps to use for the ground work you might get by with 2 sides. But I always figure 3 sides to cover for thoes accidents and miscalculations. And big mistakes. RC

That is where I have always gotten it. Try another store. Randy

What Planet are you from? The National Finals Rodeo!!!!!! RC

I have been told that the family wishes no flowers be sent. There is no plans for a public funeral as she will be cremated. They ask that memorials in her name be sent to the following: Humane Society of Park County 5537 Greybull Hwy Cody, Wy 82414 307-587-5110 I got this information from a sourse in Sheridan Wy as that is what infomation being passed around there. This is no way offical and I hope some offical word will be released at some point by the family. Randy