Randy Cornelius

If you are just starting out and cannot afford all the tools at once you can get by with buying just a small or med lifter and a set of steep angled bevelers from Berry King. You can do sheridan with the remaining tools out of the craftool line. The reason you need the steep angled bevelers is that the Sheridan Style is very tight as far as the patterns go and you will need the steep angled bevelers to bevel all the tight curves of the Sheridan pattern. You can also get by without the lifters if you have a pro pedel. You can lift the corners of the leaves with the pro pedel tool with good results. I speak from experiance as I could not afford all the tools at once. I would also like to reccomend to get the book on Sheidan style carving by Chan Geer. His book takes you through the process step by step and you can see what you need to do at each step. Last I knew he sells through Hidecrafter and Weaver Leather. If you cannot get it PM me and I will forward you his phone and you can order direct. He also has a video that is very helpful too. Jim Linnel also has a good video throught Tandy on Sheridan Style. Randy

First, what kind of knife are you using? The quality of the blade has a lot to do with how well you cut and carve. Buying a good quality knife with a good blade is money well spent. Just a suggestion, Barry King makes a very good knife and blade for very little money, I think 35.00 or so. Some people also use a ceramic blade but I am not fond of them. But you still have to strop them also. Stropping will polish the blade and remove fats, grease and tanning solution from the blade. The cleaner the blade the better it will cut. You should not have to put much downward pressure and the knife should cut with very little or no effort. If it drags, you need to stop and strop it. I have one colblot steel blade that will last about 5-10 minutes of constant cutting before I have to strop. Any other blade if I get 1-2 minutes of carving I am lucky. What is it supose to feel like. If I had to discribe it I gues it is a fluid motion. Make sure your leather is cased well. You can use a comerical casing solution but a few drops of dish soap in 16 oz of water works just as well. If you have a water filter the more better. Case the leather with a sponge, work the water in a little at a time. Making sure to wet the intire piece the same. When I see the water start to pool up and take a moment to soak in, that is where I stop. Wait for the leather to start to return to the orginal color, then start to carve. What are you using to strop with? I have a piece of leather glued to a paint stiring stick. Flesh side up. Work in my rouge real good. I like to have a firm surface to strop on. Be careful not round over the cutting edge. On each stroke stop, then lift the blade. I know I have went on, but the swivel knife is the most important part of leather tooling. Randy

Bruce, have you ever considered doing a lazer engraving on a custom saddle or say a trophy saddle? Randy

Someone has started doing lazer engraving near where I live. I have thought about having some designs engraved into a leather project, nothing in mind just thinking about something new. Has anyone tried this. I asked them about it and they were not sure but would try. I thought about bringing by some scraps of leather and letting them try it. Just thought someone has already been down this road could offer some insite. Randy PS, I'm back on graveyard shift so I have lots of time to sit around and think while trying to stay awake.

Okay, I think we have all had this one but I wanted to know how everyone else deals with it. I had a person email me about making a wallet for her husband for Christmas. She wanted one just like he had. I figured this sould not be too bad. Met with her and she has this thing that looks like a ladies wallet, one of those things that has 2 ziper pockets, and lots of those small pockets for all kinds of cards and 3 different slots for money ect. and folds in half and has a snap keeper thing. Something like you see at Wally world. I tell her that I just cannot make something like that as it would take hours to make the patterns for all the little pockets and the only zippers availabel that small are plastic and they would wear out before the leather even thought about it. She just kept at me about not being able to find one and wanted me to make it. So I told her what I thought it would cost to reproduce it and she thought I was crazy. I priced in in the 100.00 range She just could not understand the hours it would take to reproduce something with all those parts. Well it did not end well and to say the least I did not even attempt to make it. Was just wondering how everyone else deals with this sort of thing. Randy

I'll second what Bruce said, that is where I went to try them all before I made the big plung. You can try them all there and made up your own mind of what works for you. What I like or what Bruce likes may not work for you.... Randy PS, Bruce you are not that much older than me are you?

The ones with the table are called table machines. In leather these machines are used for a lot of different types of work but sewing lighter leather such as chaps and belts would come to mind. The Toro 3000 is a heavy duty machine. I have one of these they will sew anything you can get under the foot. Up to 3/4 of an inch. I use it a lot in sewing 2 or more thickness of saddle skirting as well as lighter leather. I would have to say that the 3000 is a good all around machine to own. I can sew with thread from 346 all the way down to 96 with simply changing the needle and thread with little or no adjustment. It is an needle feed system. It uses the needle to move the material being sewn. I can also but a table top on it and use it just like a walking foot machine or table top model. The other type is a walking foot machine such as the table models you refer to. It uses the foot as in it't name uses the foot to walk the material through the machine. The walking foot machines are used for the lighter leather and fabric Give Dave at Artisen a call and he can give you a lot more info on all the machines and what they do. A sewing machine will be one of the biggest expenses you will make but one you will never regret. It will be the best investment you will make in your leather business. And buy from someone who will give you good customer service after the sale. Buying a used machine may save you money but who will you call when it will not work. Randy

http://grandpas-pastime.com/index.html His name is Dale Grabowski above is the link to his web site. Randy

I second the service at Springfield TLF. Treasa is great. I usually order one day and get it the next. I never order on line. It seems to go to ciber space somewhere before it goes to a store to be filled. My last order from Hidecrafter, aka Hideco took over 2 weeks to get and then several items were back ordered or out of stock. I hope the new change is not going the mess up a good deal. I like ordering from them.\ Randy

I think the damage is done, What you should have done is let the barge dry completely and then rub it off. By using the deglazer first you have let the barge soak into the leather instead of just sitting on the surface. With most contact cement you can ususlly rub off the cement after it drys then clean up any residue with a cleaner of some type. I feel sanding the surface will just make things worse, you may get rid of the cement but leave a rough spot. In the future try applying a finish to a carved or stained project prior to assembly with the cement. This way it will make clean up easier. Randy

I have quit ordering in brass hardware for some time now. I have went to all stainless hardware unless a customer insists on brass. Randy

I use english bridle from Weaver to make most of my dog stuff. It is almost water profe as it has natural oils and tallows added back into the leather after tanning. I like to use it in place of harness leather which has wax which is "hot stuffed" or dipped in hot wax after tanning. I do not like to work with harness because of all the wax. Randy

I have a couple things to say about this project. As a full time police officer I would never use a belt clip to secure a weapon of any kind. I have seen these things come off the belt and you have the holster and all in your hand instead of just the weapon. Put a good leather keeper or belt loop of some type to secure the weapon to your belt. The metal clips I have seen pop off or come unattached at the mose unoportune moments. Much to the embassesment of the wearer. If he wanted a right hand holster he should have bought a right hand holster. With that said I understand that friends what you to do some stuff that you would not do on a regular basis. I think that instead of having the thumb break backwards I would just cut the whole thing off and leave it an open top. By looking at your picture of the holster after you have attached the metal clip it looks like you have it canted to the rear. If carring on the strong side you should have a forward cant for several reasons. When sitting, the gun butt is vertical with a rear cant the gun butt would be pointed down where you could not access it. It is a nature drawing motion with the movement of the wrist. Talk him into buying a new custom made holster from you..... Randy

I have a set but not willing to give them up. Have you tried ebay? Randy

I have not made a set of leather suspenders for a couple years and now I cannot find my pattern. Does anyone have a pattern or at least the measurements that they would be willing to share. I am making the kind with the heavy elastic in the back with the scissor snaps to go on the belt loops. I could wing it, but with this helpful bunch I would think someone will have a pattern. Thanks in advance. Randy

Am I the only one that will take a really dirty one to the car wash??? No soap just the pressure wash.Boy it gets them clean and the sheeps skin, come out really nice and white again. Just don't use the wax!!! Randy

You can use bellies for a lot of things. Knife sheeths and any other small items. I have a small cowboy boot shaped clicker die that I click out the boots, but my makers stamp in them, punch a hole and put a key ring in and give them out to customers. You can think of lots of uses. Use them to practice your swivel knife on. Randy

I bought an Artisan 3000 to replace my Boss. I cannot say enough good things about the Artisan machine or the folks that run the place. I have been running mine for 3 years without a problem. Tech support is top notch if you have a problem, they will stay on the phone an work you through any problem you may have. Dave is a member here I am sure he will be glad to send you some info. Go have a look at thier web site and give them a call. 888-838-1408. It will be the best 1950.00 you will spend. My boss just sits and gathers dust now.... Randy

I drill

OK, I think I know the answer to this one. Look on the servo motor, On the left side (end)as you are setting at the machine there will be a little red switch. That little switch changes the motor speed from slow to fast. If you will look I presume that the switch got flipped in your move. If that does not do the trick check the chain running from the foot peddle up to the motor. Maybe there is too much slack and not letting the machine run at full speed. Hope this helps. Randy

Glad you decided to join and Welcome to the group.. Randy

I am getting close to having my new shop ready to move in. The question is what I need and how to set it up. I have been working in a small space in my basement for years. So I would like some imput from the members on how to set it up. I have several machines, Landis K, Boss, Artisen 3000, crank splitter, 3in 1 etc. I have a nice big window on the south side I want to set up my tooling bench in front of and I know I want a large cutting table in the center. I also have one draw down stand and would like another so I could work on more than one saddle at a time. I am trying to decide what kind of leather racks for storing rolls of leather etc. My shop will be 20 x 30 feet with 10' ceilings, I have a large 48" door in the front with two large window on each side of the door plus the window on the south. I have tons of hardware that I have collected over the years that presently hangs from nails from the rafters in the basement ceiling. What's the best storage method for them short of hanging them from the ceiling again. I am open to suggestions from those who have build a shop and afterward said, "I wish I would have....." Randy

I bought some sewing awls from Bob Douglas at Sheridan that I like really well. He has several different sizes, I bought the slim blades that work very well for me. I have to ask why you think you need linen thread? It will rot after years of use. There are some really nice polyester threads out there now. Barbors is the only one that still makes the linen thread but not sure where to buy it. I have a box that I use for restoration work. Ted Flowers silver saddles were sewn with linen and are now all following apart as the threads rot from age. Maybe someone out there knows were to buy Barbors at. Randy

I stopped in there while I was at the show in Ft. Worth. It seems business as usual but there was tention in the air as with any business that changes ownership. I was told that a new cataloge is in the works and should be out by spring. I will miss dealing with Ann. I wish you luck. I do have an Artisen so maybe we will still talk.. Randy

Our for fathers came from countries like yours were gun ownership was repressed. It was for that reason the 2nd Ammenment was the second most importaint thing to them when they wrote the US constitution. "The right of the people to keep and bare arms" God created man, Col. Colt made them equal... No ones going to convince her... Randy