DrmCa

Thanks for the info! I thought something along those lines, but rather that it was for a super-light thread. Anyhow, the machine stitches fine and takes anything from lightest lining to heavy upholstery and wool suiting. Can anyone ID this machine w/o the shield/tag?

Finally found a machine to replace my Juki 553 and the price was pretty good. It is missing the takeup leather guard, but that's not a big deal. Also looks like the additional tension disk is missing on top to the left of the post. The motor came with the 3" pulley, but its clutch was tuned to be like a kitten - I can stitch literally 1 stitch per second. This is a Mitsubishi without any shield and the seller did not know either. Looks like DB-130 to my uneducated guess. Can anyone ID this machine?

Correction to the ad above: now the whole rig is for sale, including the table with K-legs, your choice of motors as per above, a rather broken gooseneck lamp (coil unwinded at the bottom but still can be pointed in most directions used while stitching).

This is super cool stuff! Love the material, color and molding. Where are you buying flap locking prongs/studs whatever these are called?

WizCrafts and Uwe know all about 335 suffixes I surmise. For a walking foot machine which would be my only production machine, I would go to a dealer. Bought mine from GSM Sewing in Toronto and they let me stitch any leather I brought with me, with my thread. I did not notice any issues, but their tech tuned it ever so slightly and only then took my $$ and let me take the machine away. If this was "just another machine", I would probably take a risk and look in the classifieds at the lower price level like I did with all my textile machines (a couple of them are from scrap but working like new).

Wholeheartedly agree that a cylinder machine is not everyone's ideal setup, but if you ever fixed zippers on boots and purses and made hats and purses etc, you'd appreciate them immensely. Yes, a cylinder bed machine in the same casting is around 2x the price of a flat bed, but when you need it and don't have it, it hurts. Boy am I glad I spent $950 Canadian dollars for 335!

I would recommend staying with a Pfaff and looking at 335 in the old casting (yes, I own one, so I am not impartial). You gain cylinder arm and walking foot and can do lots more than on a flatbed. From reading this and other forums I gathered that Consew is good when it works, but when it does not, it's a RPITA. And strangely or not, I saw many more posts re trouble with Consew than with other machines. This was the reason I chose Pfaff at some point. Adler 67 is very similar, but has a drive belt where Pfaff has a drive shaft with gears and is somewhat more reliable. HTH

For leather backstitch is not absolutely critical, but it is a huge time saver for textiles.

As you mentioned portability, let me tell ya that mine is screwed onto a 14" of 2x4 which I carry around and attach to tabletops with 2x clamps.

And I have vast experience degreasing with acetone. Dangers of acetone are highly overrated. Did you have any specific hazard on your mind to discuss? If you are concerned, you should probably google MSDS for acetone right now instead of spreading rumors.

Someone used linseed or vegetable oil as a lubricant. Hate those types. You can try soaking in acetone, but it evaporates quickly so you need to insulate the small area you are soaking with aluminum foil, heavy PET bags or similar.

I just bought my first twisty press made in Italy and that is the best sort of press money can get. The top lever sort of press is actually intended to be used on a foot operated stand. This is what I have - the green one on the right - and highly recommend:

That explains my confusion then. Where I am from, linseed oil is literally brought to a boiling point and kept that for many hours or even days if it had high moisture content, then had manganese peroxide added, cooled and sold as BLO. And that stuff dries up after 8 hours. I literally used drums of that staff and painted square miles with it in pure form, and with oil based paints thinned with that BLO. If back then it was like you are describing, everyone would be in a severe state of shock, as everyone knew BLO dried up and solidified by the night fall if you painted in the morning. It did not have to be exactly linseed, but that was the most common ingredient, others being flax, sunflower and other oils. This bottle was the very first one I bought in North America, and without knowing that BLO is not really BLO, I assumed that the label was telling the truth where it said "let dry for 8 hours". It is going to be the last one as well, as I am going to order stuff overseas where they know what they are doing.

Nicely done! I'd wear the brown one any day and time.

No need to go full Morgan Freeman on me, thanks, I'll make a new one anyway. Stay away from Recochem BLO , unless this is just an isolated incident with a bad batch, but I don't care anymore. BLO is not something you can generally get wrong - you either boil it, or you don't, there is no middle ground. Chiao!

It was labeled, smelled and felt like boiled to me. Recochem are either crooks, or totally incompetent. Unfortunately this is typical for everything for DIY sold in Canada: they want you to waste time and money, end up ruining the project and having to call a contractor. If I will use any solvent, the cost will be more than making a brand new one and coating it properly.

Made an awl from a patio umbrella shaft and a 1/4" mini chuck from the eBay, and coated it with Recochem boiled linseed oil. It said on the label to let dry for 8 hours, and from my past experience I knew it took about that long for boiled linseed oil to dry up. But this does not dry up at all. It is still sticky after several weeks in sunlight at a room temperature. I can imagine someone's horror and frustration if they coated their home reno project or furniture with this. Oh boy!

Thanks DC, Is this machine for light or heavy textiles? Does it have its own feet, or takes standard tall shank feet like Juki DDL 553 would? And what needle system?

Another strange Pfaff I came across, looks like 463, but has 2 strange thread guides on the top and the one on the front is way longer than what I am used to. What is special about this model? Also it looks like the stitch length dial is missing, or am I misunderstanding the purpose of the part right of "PFAFF"?

This can be TIG welded with steel or bronze rods. Find a good TIGer and it will be like new.

I think this is super cool. Natives in Alberta, Canada, make dagger handles out of bear penis skin as well.

Thanks a lot! The seller never provided any info and I could not get a hold of them, so now it's clear I do not need this machine. It did raise the red flag that the tensioner was similarly located as my Union Special's. Love this forum and you fellows!

This is not a 463 or 487, but the same casting. I am looking to buy this machine to replace Juki 553 as wife needs the reverse. Just have no idea what model it is and it does not look pristine: there may be missing parts South-East of the take up lever guard and the pulley looks modified. Also not sure what is the big black box under the right corner of the table. Any clues? If you know what it is, is it too much to ask for the needle system as well (hope it can take 16-257) and whether it uses standard high-shank feet? I have tons of those for Juki and would like to keep them. Thank you!

And the reason this is not a motorized machine is... JK. Next you know, someone will come up with a V-groved handwheel for running off a servo Uwe?