DrmCa

I think that Wiz's original guess that the smaller needle is the culprit is correct. The larger needle has more space to "hide" the thread in, and overall creates a larger hole, so trying a larger needle may actually work.

If OTB does not have them, they are likely made of Unobtainium.

This tote simply blows my mind. Superb workmanship and great taste!

Yeah, looking for a Bonis type or a similar. I thought they all had 2 threads. You are right, stitch adjustment is a nice feature.

My next upgrade going to be a fur machine. I never used one and only stitched by hand, and all I gathered so far was that having a hand-wheel on the left side is a big help. But otherwise are there things to watch out for when looking for a fur machine? Unlike high-speed textile machines that may be clapped out, and leather machines which may be overstressed by stitching too much leather, fur machines probably take it easy. There are no feet to change, no throat plates, so parts probably never even replaced on them?

I was thinking of the same thing

I won't sleep until I know what's inside!

I was convinced of the same until I bought my latest textile machine (Mitsubishi, mentioned in another thread) which came with the amazingly tuned clutch. It can be feathered down to 1 stitch per second, unlike any clutch motor I had earlier. The wife, who uses the machine now all the time, even declined me putting a smaller pulley on the motor, even though she uses reverse a lot to close seams. Bottom line, yes, a servo is miles ahead of any clutch motor, and they are quite affordable these days. But it is possible to work with a fine tuned clutch motor as well.

I agree with Gregg that timing is very important, but relative timing, not absolute. Unless you are setting up for high-performance production, you can rig something up. Have a look at Automation Direct web site, they have everything imaginable for this sort of work.

Isn't this a textile feed dog in the picture? I thought leather dogs should be smooth or slightly checkered, where heavy duty textile dogs are sharply serrated.

Worth mentioning what sort of leather and produt you are looking to saw with it. Just my 2c.

Apologies, there is Adler with the similar model number which is a cylinder arm. 167? 69? I can't remember. Virtually the same as Pfaff, but belt-driven vs. shaft-driven, and with a knee press I believe vs. pedal lift. Yes, I'd recommend a used Pfaff over a new Chinese clone any time of the day.

Precisely. The machine in my signature - Pfaff 335, or Adler 67, or many more of the kind which take needles from size 14 to size 20 and thread up to 138. These will match your stated purpose. I can work with anything from lightest leather for gloves and shirts, to latigo belts.

No background info, not even location in the profile, and this new member has an expectation that everyone will be jumping to identify this machine. Attitude adjustment is due.

Does anyone happen to have a manual for DB-130? I have a parts diagram widely available on the Net, this is not it. One of the oil wicks around the shuttle hook is dangling and I would like to find where it should attach.

Although I had some bad blood from dealing with Thread Exchange, they are still a decent source of thread and much closer than Chinese. I did not like how they handled my complaint re completely wrong color shipped, but otherwise they have a good selection. Kind of pricey, yes, but they are within reach. I do not use them anymore as I found another source within a driving distance who do not ship their products and are a walk in/cash only.

Do you mind sharing the brand that you use?

Tex27 is regular textile thread which is used all around for pajamas, shirts, dress pants and suits, nylon jackets etc. I do not have any smaller threads than this and do not remember ever coming across those. Tex40 is heavier weight textile thread, used for some denims, cargo pants, uniforms etc. Tex70-90 are often used for jeans and other denim items, work pants and jackets. I make and hem jeans with this all the time. Tex110 is super-heavy thread used for safety belts/harnesses, tarps, and for accents on designer clothes. This is the largest textile thread I ever came across.

Thanks Uwe, I did that and even got conflicting results showing the same pages referencing both DB-120 and DB-130 but with completely different images. This is why I was not 100.9% sure. What does "E" stand for? Mine apparently has a post instead of additional tensioner, so it may be a different letter. Probably does not matter, all parts still the same.

Thanks for the info! I thought something along those lines, but rather that it was for a super-light thread. Anyhow, the machine stitches fine and takes anything from lightest lining to heavy upholstery and wool suiting. Can anyone ID this machine w/o the shield/tag?

Finally found a machine to replace my Juki 553 and the price was pretty good. It is missing the takeup leather guard, but that's not a big deal. Also looks like the additional tension disk is missing on top to the left of the post. The motor came with the 3" pulley, but its clutch was tuned to be like a kitten - I can stitch literally 1 stitch per second. This is a Mitsubishi without any shield and the seller did not know either. Looks like DB-130 to my uneducated guess. Can anyone ID this machine?

Correction to the ad above: now the whole rig is for sale, including the table with K-legs, your choice of motors as per above, a rather broken gooseneck lamp (coil unwinded at the bottom but still can be pointed in most directions used while stitching).

This is super cool stuff! Love the material, color and molding. Where are you buying flap locking prongs/studs whatever these are called?

WizCrafts and Uwe know all about 335 suffixes I surmise. For a walking foot machine which would be my only production machine, I would go to a dealer. Bought mine from GSM Sewing in Toronto and they let me stitch any leather I brought with me, with my thread. I did not notice any issues, but their tech tuned it ever so slightly and only then took my $$ and let me take the machine away. If this was "just another machine", I would probably take a risk and look in the classifieds at the lower price level like I did with all my textile machines (a couple of them are from scrap but working like new).

Wholeheartedly agree that a cylinder machine is not everyone's ideal setup, but if you ever fixed zippers on boots and purses and made hats and purses etc, you'd appreciate them immensely. Yes, a cylinder bed machine in the same casting is around 2x the price of a flat bed, but when you need it and don't have it, it hurts. Boy am I glad I spent $950 Canadian dollars for 335!