DrmCa

Dunno about the US, but up here in Canada COSTCO has a fantastic deal on APC 1500 VA back UPS. Worth every penny. Recently had the AC motor blown, possibly by a surge. Will be installing whole house surge protector soon and another separate protector for the AC.

The playing field between North America and 3d world is not level. I was involved with metal plating/galvanizing. It's a dying business in NA right now, as there are enormous fines imposed if gubmint finds traces of high oxidation states of chromium in wastewater, even if those came from a hobbyist flushing his kit down the toilet on the same drainage pipe as a 100% compliant business. In the 3d world no one looks your way even if a factory is dumping untreated waste. This impacts all businesses across the board in NA. Last I heard, the largest and only lead smelter in the US closed down its doors due to red tape and hostile regulations. What's the acronym for this - NIMBY mentality? Don't even get me started about insurance premiums! We are safe operators here, with policies and procedures in place, training, highest levels of compliance, yet we have to pay through the nose, while in the 3d world it costs next to nothing to insure the same activity. On top of that leatherworkers in general make almost the lowest wages of all industries. You have to find a niche. Having said that, it is used machines only for me, new ones would never be economical. And then I take time, shop around and wait for good deals for months, sometimes years.

You are thinking those rail mounted quilting machines. I was referring to regular single needle machines set up for quilting by changing the foot and removing feed dog

I saw these feet on quilting machines, but it looks like the guy in the video uses it for darning, which is very similar.

Do you guys upload your creations to thingiverse at all? That's a great place, as they have advanced interactive preview with 3d, and pretty good UI. I just started using it in my other line of business https://www.thingiverse.com/VintageElectronicsInc/designs and found it so easy to use.

I gotta try that! Last time I printed something flat and sizeable, it warped like crazy (it was a base for a monitor stand). Maybe that is just the cheaper filament I bought (produces off-white product, kind of milk color, where previously I used white filament which produced white products).

TLDR. This is why there is a sticky FAQ thread where Wizcraft et al summarized everything after answering this same question a few dozen times. Read the sticky threads, it's all there.

All this is in the FAQ and has been beaten to death.

No.

ABS or PLA and how do you prevent warpage?

Those clasps sure add weight.

It does look Singer'ish to me, especially the cover of the bulge on the casting and the flywheel.

This is a high speed textile machine, useless for leather work.

This is not really slowing down - this is better clutch control.

Singer parts are not that difficult to source. Before you spend time and effort making the shaft, try shopping around. These parts can be tricky in terms of surface finish and heat treatment as the originals are often cast iron, not steel.

Wow, you are very talented!

PLA is actually surprisingly strong. I just finished printing and putting together a monitor stand for a 23" LCD monitor and it's just as strong as the factory with fewer stiffeners. This pulley should last a long time. How did you avoid warpage?

Dunno, I sometimes get a 20kg box of overstock hardware from a factory via TNT and it's exactly what I ordered. Maybe you need to spend more time searching. Overstock means extra product manufactured, but left over after filling large orders. No one needs it, so the factory is happy to sell at hugely discounted prices.

Negotiate.

Clutch of servo?

Direct from China via alibaba is your best bet, until you make your own contacts and then switch to buying direct from their factory. All the stuff is ultimately made there anyway. If you are just starting up, you can get some crazy good deals on overstock. How do I know? I went down this path.

Can you at least tell us what style of snaps do they insist on using? Provide sample pictures?

SS is harder than brass. Having said that, I am setting SS or brass of the same size on the same set of dies and never felt SS were set any different. They may cause extra wear on the die set, but it usually lasts several 10s of 1000s of snaps at least, so why bother?

Red would actually take the amount of heat enough to turn the good into ashes to break loose. Blue should be fine.

No one I know uses snaps on belts. Chicago screws are used, or rivets. Today it does not matter who is the "maker" of snaps - they all are made in China by the millions and packaged under whatever brand ordered them.