DrmCa

Liner might stretch and create wrinkles, which would rub you sores.

Gloves as well.

US$ have been very popular in that neck of the woods since at least 1990.

Мило. А баксы-то всё в ходу!

That stitch is just as strong as the thread you'd use. I use regular high-quality polyester thread in TEX 27 for hats and gloves, and it holds up fine. On leather it would be weaker than most lockstitch machine's due to pretty high SPI. One thing to remember is that once that thread breaks in a seam, it would undo the whole seam if you pull on it in one direction. So if you had a 10" seam and it broke in the middle, then you might end up with 5" loose. I do not make large handbags, but for purses I would still use my Pfaff 335.

They look frightfully similar to Juki. I own a single-needle straight stitcher Mitsu which is identical to your pictures, except that it does not have walking foot. The stitch length disk operates a pin with a taper tip, which locks in the notches on the disk. That tip has a tendency for wearing off and allowing the disk to turn freely as you go in reverse. My solution was to turn the pin on a metal lathe to make the tip slightly concave and that fixed the issue. Also make sure that you know exactly what needle system to use! Make the seller change a needle before you test stitch. They should take 16/134 IIRC but some owners adjust the needle bar for whatever needle system they have on hand.

+1 for Pfaff 335 in any casting. Foot sets are abundant on the Ebay but they might require some minor fitting with a dremel or similar tools. Also get a swing-out edge guide - it saves tons of time and effort. If you have a choice of it vs Adler 67, take Pfaff as it has an all-metal gear drive while Adler uses a cloth timing belt which has a tendency for breaking.

There are lots of blokes like that, they would lure you onto their channel using any means possible, but provide nothing of value. The Internet today is about The Click.

I am so glad that I own an old Bonis Never Stop fur machine. It is super awesome for furs and also works well on light leather for gloves and such. It helps to have a compressed air gooseneck blower too. I do not yet have it set up, but contemplating, as hiding hair between the pieces with my fingers is taxing. If you are serious about sewing furs, you should definitely look for a fur machine as they produce much better results at higher productivity. At the end of the seam you just tear off the workpiece instead of cutting. One thing to keep in mind is that machines work well with the weight which they are designed for. If you step up your minks and try to saw lamb, you might be all right, but if you try sheepskins you might start breaking needles. Check out Bonis web site for an idea how many different types they make. Needles are quite unique and you have to buy them in boxes of 100 most of the time. Any questions re my Bonis, reach out!

I use the "For Sale" signs from the dollar store for small parts.

Vinyl is fine as it has fabric lining, but leather would get chewed up.

Is that East Germany? Did they make Veritas machine brand there after the war? My mother owned a Veritas machine. It was a royal pain to saw with as it was very finicky about the top thread adjustment and just would not saw well most of the time. Can't remember if it was East German made.

Is that a base of a modified dentist's chair, or a dedicated saddlemaker's rig?

Did you try Thread Exchange?

It's a boat anchor.

What are you currently using and why is it not doing what you want?

The beauty of good quality leather is in leather itself. Unless you absolutely have to carve it, do not. This is my approach at least. Same with wood. Just my 2c, do not shoot me!

It is a walking foot already so you need neither teflon no roller foot. What leaves marks? Is it the feed dog or one of the feet? Which one and what kind of mark? If you are using a textile foot with teeth you can grind the teeth off.

I miss the Singer gold.

Nice! Punch a couple holes on each side and use mesh eyelets, or the head will sweat.

That is why they sold it! It is similar to Consew 206RBL-30.

If that is a bunch of zigzag programming disks showing, then it is not a bad machine for $100-150. Still a domestic machine but at least it can do something. But $900 ebay price is a joke.

I know that 850 is a domestic machine but google shows some mounted on industrial tables and those are called "850 industrial" but I am too lazy to investigate into whether those are really the same or different.

850 is not an industrial machine. Ignore that. My bad - 850 and 850 industrial must be 2x different machines.

And when you will get sick of the short arm and weak take up lever of the 20U, start saving money for a Juki LZ.