DrmCa

This is super cool! I've been contemplating making the same kind of wrap for my vehicles for a long time but never had the courage to get on with it.

What's the difference? I have access to quantities of these snaps, and I did not know that they are any special.

My Huji 43-6 patcher has arrived yesterday as well. It can stitch well, right out of the box. I built a portable desktop mount for it, out of a sofa foot and a hardwood flooring board. Looks ugly but functions well. Then I went to motorize it, thinking that a domestic motor would work, but bummer! I need a CW motor whereas domestic motors are CCW. My next question is: are HAx1 needles available in LR point at all? If they are not, then how can I adjust the needle bar for 135*16?

I love the pouch. You should have probably used the thread that is on the snap button patch throughout, but this is just my taste.

Any oil is fine while it lasts. A thicker oil will stay longer. Since the motor only runs at about 3500 RPM, you can use the same engine oil as in your car. If you are not running a 24/7 factory, it practically does not matter which oil you use. I keep leftover oil from engine oil changes and transmission fluid changes and use it in my motors that have similar lubricating wells (for example, I have a bench grinder that uses the same sort of lubrication).

My Bonis runs on round leather belt with an S hook. I can make either of them whenever I need.

Hoping I am not too late to the fight. Whenever one has tension issues at the start of the seam, make sure to hold the the tails of threads and gently pull on them when you begin to stitch. If you let them hang, the first stitches may be loose.

Look for Bonis Neverstop instead.

+1. If it runs quiet, smooth, with no vibration or overheating, then it can run forever. A bit of lube won't hurt. Mind you, clutch motors are noisier than servo, and they cost more in the electric bills in the long run.

What size bobbins are they? Are they non-standard?

Which needle system and bobbin size do they use?

Doug, do you mind sharing a link to the seller of this machine? I am on the market for a desktop/portable patcher too.

Pardon my ignorance, but are 29K71 available online? Assume that I know nothing about patchers

Are parts/feet hard to source for 29k58? What are they interchangeable with any other model?

This is the correct system and size. Just the point is wrong. You need the LR point that slices through leather, in the same size and system, but the round textile point that you currently have rips it apart. You could get away with it on soft, upholstery leather but you are SOL with the leather that you have. Keep the needles and buy a few packs of LR.

When I replace accessory belts on my cars, I keep old ones and if they are about the right size, I cut them along the groves into 2-grove belts. They then work for another decade on my sewing machines.

1. Post photos. 2. What is your source of feet?

Are you using round-point, textile needle on leather? Look for L for "leather point". There are left and right diamond tips, whichever suits your sewing style. Mostly LR are used, for "right slant".

Using 135-17 since I bought it, and I had to lower the needle bar when I bought it, because the seller used longer needles that I do not have. This machine has history.

The broken part in the picture that I quoted, I guess. It can be either made anew on a lathe, or the fracture can be welded/soldered.

Can be repaired by a TIG welder or made on a mini lathe. Sometimes this is even worth ordering custom dies or taps for. I could even solder it back together. Tip: the stud does not have to be split.

I do not have to. I write what I deem appropriate and necessary, for the benefit of the one who asked the question. And I will keep writing in this fashion, going forward.

My Singer that we use for the most difficult of the areas on heavy textiles is from the late 1800s and my grand-grand-mother-in-law used it before the end of that century, to stitch trench coats. Still runs like new. My aunt has another one like it, complete with a cast-iron base. It's my grand-grand-mother's, and she used it back around 1890, to stitch for the whole family. Still runs like new.

Like I said. A shorter needle was not meant to refer to the specific needle that the OP has.