DrmCa

My Bonis runs on round leather belt with an S hook. I can make either of them whenever I need.

Hoping I am not too late to the fight. Whenever one has tension issues at the start of the seam, make sure to hold the the tails of threads and gently pull on them when you begin to stitch. If you let them hang, the first stitches may be loose.

Look for Bonis Neverstop instead.

+1. If it runs quiet, smooth, with no vibration or overheating, then it can run forever. A bit of lube won't hurt. Mind you, clutch motors are noisier than servo, and they cost more in the electric bills in the long run.

What size bobbins are they? Are they non-standard?

Which needle system and bobbin size do they use?

Doug, do you mind sharing a link to the seller of this machine? I am on the market for a desktop/portable patcher too.

Pardon my ignorance, but are 29K71 available online? Assume that I know nothing about patchers

Are parts/feet hard to source for 29k58? What are they interchangeable with any other model?

This is the correct system and size. Just the point is wrong. You need the LR point that slices through leather, in the same size and system, but the round textile point that you currently have rips it apart. You could get away with it on soft, upholstery leather but you are SOL with the leather that you have. Keep the needles and buy a few packs of LR.

When I replace accessory belts on my cars, I keep old ones and if they are about the right size, I cut them along the groves into 2-grove belts. They then work for another decade on my sewing machines.

1. Post photos. 2. What is your source of feet?

Are you using round-point, textile needle on leather? Look for L for "leather point". There are left and right diamond tips, whichever suits your sewing style. Mostly LR are used, for "right slant".

Using 135-17 since I bought it, and I had to lower the needle bar when I bought it, because the seller used longer needles that I do not have. This machine has history.

The broken part in the picture that I quoted, I guess. It can be either made anew on a lathe, or the fracture can be welded/soldered.

Can be repaired by a TIG welder or made on a mini lathe. Sometimes this is even worth ordering custom dies or taps for. I could even solder it back together. Tip: the stud does not have to be split.

I do not have to. I write what I deem appropriate and necessary, for the benefit of the one who asked the question. And I will keep writing in this fashion, going forward.

My Singer that we use for the most difficult of the areas on heavy textiles is from the late 1800s and my grand-grand-mother-in-law used it before the end of that century, to stitch trench coats. Still runs like new. My aunt has another one like it, complete with a cast-iron base. It's my grand-grand-mother's, and she used it back around 1890, to stitch for the whole family. Still runs like new.

Like I said. A shorter needle was not meant to refer to the specific needle that the OP has.

+1 for disposable snips. When dull, sharpen them once with an old, dull needle, and toss them when they get dull again.

You can adjust the needle bar height for a shorter needle but if you go too far the needle shank may strike the material, or the needle bar may strike the raised foot during the bobbin winding. People adjust their needle bars all the time, to save a buck. As long as you can get away with it, and your budget is too tight, who can stop you?

Recently, I picked up from a roadside a perfect working Kenmore similar to yours. It came on a table, with a few button sewing kits, lots of accessories, bobbins, needles, feet, threads, and manuals. The maximum I would have ever paid for a used (and your machine is used, no matter what the seller is saying) machine, had I been hard pressed to buy one, would have probably been $40. I gave this machine to my mum. It's her 3d such machine. The previous two were a Brother and a Singer that I also found in cases, with bobbins, feet, etc. As to whether it can stitch leather, yes, it can stitch the lightest of leathers, under certain conditions. You may have luck with a roller foot, if you have lots of experience. For a beginner, a walking foot industrial machine is a must. Buy a good used flatbed machine for around $300 or cylinder arm for around $600, and it will serve you for many years to come.

I ended up going to the industrial machine shop earlier today and getting exactly the same thread guide and screw as in your picture. Now mine looks just like yours, except that my needle bar is still in its factory position; In my case, I cannot turn it, as if I did, the bulky material that I saw might rub on the left side of the needle bar and catch the thread. It happened a few times while I did not have the needle guide. Now it stitches 100% reliable. I do not use it for leather, only for fabrics. Leather is the purview of my Pfaff walking foot. The old one must have come from a different kind of machine that has longer needles. May I ask? What's up with the green throat plate and feed dog? They look unusual.

Just keep in mind that there is General Industrial Sewing Machine in Toronto. Try to deal with Neal (Or is his name Niel? Can't remember what his card looks like.), if you can get hold of him.

A used but well-tuned long-arm Singer 144, 145 with a handwheel is the first thing I would think of if I had to do it.