OLDNSLOW

I have thought about it but have not looked into cost of the 3d printers as of late, and of course when the demand drops so will the price.

ok I don't recall if I read that or not. Thanks

Well, tell me about ---- the round knife sitting on the table, which one of the vendors made that and how do you like it? Thanks

Cool, but you have a much greater vision of what yer doing than I do, I sort of gave up on grinding and tig welding and that a few years ago. there's a lot of rust in its place.

Uwe, would that inline foot work on a Cobra 4 machine as well or is it set for the type of machine you made it for? In the event it will work with a cobra are there more available or is it a one off? Thanks

there never seems to be a situation where a 1911 holster in all sizes will sell, I have made some with both gator and elephant in the window or done a pattern of some sort in the front support leather and they have always sold. That might be in past due to the many different makers of the 1911, with younger crowd it is any line of Glock. There really is no way to determine what might or might not sell, if it catches someone's eye and they really like it they'll buy it to say they have it, but again any of the Glock models will sell. It seems like a lot of police will have them for back up or their off duty carry in all flavors. Take a pattern and make it 2 tone and also have a few for the lefties cause ya just never know.

Here are 4 more that all started of with some of JLF's base patterns then modified to in one case fit a gun with a laser.

This one is from the patterns that Jeff JLF kindly provides all those wanting learn and grow without having to reinvent the wheel, one of the holsters I did have to modify the stitch lines and pattern by extending them about a 1/4 inch all the way around and move the stitch line to accommodate a CZ pistol that has a completely different trigger guard over a 45 ACP. The holster sill more work to be done to be completed, this is just an example of how to take the original and move and change this just a bit to work with other models that might come along.

very well done, takes 2 hole spaces and turns it to way more space, if he is will to make other please post it along with cost. Thanks

guessen I gots to dig round seeun if I took some pics purty sure I did age has its moments.

Ifen you cant get one right away I am just up the road a spell if ya need to borrow one.

I guess ill have to wait a spell already poor for the month

I'll be yer Huckleburry is it on the page er what?

I started to use Edge Flex which is actually made by Fenice out of Italy, once it is applied I let it dry then crank out a heat iron. the heat iron I found is like the one that is sold at hobby lobby and had a rheostat for adjusting the heat, I then go over the edges to smooth out any rough areas, and it works like a charm, I felt that edge coat sucked as well and wont use it, it is either burnish or edge flex.

they are just up the road from me, and I have been threatening myself to drive over and buy some, I just haven't done it yet. I was fairly busy for Christmas but not overly busy, so when I am done with this W/C I have, I am going to make the drive over for the 1st purchase. I want to be able to look at a whole stack of leather to see if the quality in that particular stack runs the same from top to bottom. I would still like to hear more back from you as time passes with the hides you do have, as I have had the same problems with dye run off, not as bad with the W/C but I would be able to save even more money by being able to order from ADL and have them deliver. Thanks

you soaked that leather for 2 days before trying to mold it, is that correct? If so maybe others missed that point, but just in my own crazy opinion that was way to much and is probably why it would not mold and is still wet! I think JLS touched on it, you only needs a few seconds and certainly not 2 days, maybe a few minutes at most. even though the leather is that old and probably dried out it would not need that much. If you want you can redo that holster once it is dried, by soak it for a few minutes then try to mold. If need be due to dryness you can oil a little bit before using, let the oil sink in real good maybe a few days then dunk in water for ONLY A FEW MINUTES, then try to mold, but don't soak it in water for a few days.

yes ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said

If I have dipped ad dunked my leather I will leave it on the vacuum table with the pump running so that it will pull more moisture out of the leather, in theory that is how it is suppose to work, does it truly do that not sure. But the way my table is built I can place or situate everything over a vacuum port so that it can pull the air and moisture out through that port, again in theory what it suppose to be doing is boiling out any moisture found. I know it works on a close loop A/C system.

yup

And using vacuum is a weird animal, depending on the type of set up it is going to do different things with the moisture that is in the leather. A vacuum system used for food just might not remove much moisture from the holster it is just forming it rapidly. If is built around a vacuum pump used in the automotive industry, then it is going to be pulling moisture out of the leather as well as forming the holster rapidly aiding in the drying process of the leather.

From what I can see of the top edge it does need some work, just like the edges of a dex holster there is a technique for finishing the edges of a holster. With dex they use buffing wheels to achieve a proper edge, I still struggle with mine, sometimes they are great other times not so great some times it is the leather, other times it is the worker and nothing works.

I am by no means an expert but using Kydex parts with a leather holster I think is up there with one of the greater sins a leather worker could make. I would take those off and use leather straps that will help cure that problem. And from the looks of it your stitch line along the top rail is nonexistent, not sure if you drew It up that way, it is a nice looking holster in spite of the few errors that I see, but again that is just my opinion. Search the site for pancake holsters both IWB and OWB and you'll see what I am taking about, If you still want to use kydex clips for the IWB I would choose a different style clip. Also as a thought go back and post some photos of the back and sides of the build, Hope I added a little that you can take away and use and look at other builds here on the board

Was the striking area made out of nylon or did you choose some other type of material Inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks

I wanna know what weight the front half of leather is? And are you vacuum molding or all by hand? Thanks

cant really tell if he is gluing vegtan or some kind of buck skin