dikman

Photos might help?

Another option. Get two pieces of wood that are flat so they fit together nicely, lay the tang on one, draw around it and then chisel out just enough to lay the tang in. Glue the tang and both pieces together with epoxy. When dry saw/file/sand etc to the shape you want. You won't have a ferrule but it's not needed anyway as it's only there for decoration. Later on you can always break this handle off if you decide to fit a ferrule and "traditional" bored handle.

Bear in mind that lacking a speed reducer may not necessarily be an issue, depending on what you want to sew. Plus one can always be fitted later and you can make your own if you're that way inclined.

So what was the problem?

Good on him for changing it. And just think how much you've learned already.

No worries mate, its just an idea at the moment.

About 1/8", the top loop has to be at right angles to the bottom loop, the bonus of making a replacement is that I could make it fractionally shorter which would give a little more lift. Something to ponder.

My Pfaff 335 has a manual tension disc release and that's exactly what I get if I forget to release the lever and run it with no upper thread tension.

Only good thing about the heat is my tomatoes and cucumbers are finally starting to grow!! I've been thinking about that wire link and I'm wondering if it will be possible to make a replacement out of steel stock. I'll have to see how much room there is.

In that case I think you've just answered your own question. The 26 will fit up to 5/8" under the feet and will need minimal adjusting between thick and thin stuff. At least, that's how I see it. Doubtless you will get more thoughts in a few hours, as due to time differences many of your compatriots will be on later.

Probably could have hammered the stitches down on the back - but I'm just being picky. That looks real nice, simple clean lines, neat stitching and the colour and finish is very pleasing (to my eyes, anyway).

Yeah, not looking good temp. wise. I hate summer!!! If it wasn't for having family here we would have moved to Tassie years ago. Anti-histamines, got them but not doing much good today, so I'm just sitting around with a laptop. I've got some cartridges to reload but it's too hot in the shed for that or sewing.

What size thread do you want to use? The 26 sounds like the best fit for your needs but will probably be limited to #138 thread. If you want thicker thread then the class 4 is the obvious choice but may (probably will be) a problem if you want to make lighter items. As Wiz has mentioned these big machines can be "dumbed down" for lighter items/thread but it isn't an ideal solution (or probably practical for most people).

Mine has about 3/4" (20mm) of lift with the foot pedal, but there is still another 1/4" (5mm) left before the presser foot bar is at it's max. lift. Looking at the design it wouldn't be hard to get that full lift , by making a replacement crank. I just checked the Juki parts list and interestingly the Juki crank is flat, it doesn't have the offset that the Cowboy machine has. Maybe when I'm looking for something to do one day.......... In the meantime I explained the issue to Jess (Hi Jess ) and suggested she check it on any machines she unpacks, just in case. She said will order a replacement part for me, so all is good. Now if I can just get rid of this bloody hay fever!!!!!!

Will, thanks for taking the time to post this info. After my efforts at trying to do the same thing here (Australia), and discovering there was nothing to be gained I was curious whether it would be the same situation in the US. It appears that it is.

I've wondered the same thing, JLS. If it's something that is going to be bent/folded/handled a lot how long will it keep its looks?

Excellent service. Without having the actual unit to play with I would never have guessed the bearing, going by the fault description.Most peculiar.

Interesting idea about the opening wedge Brian, something to keep in mind. RS, I didn't have an issue with binding when using the hand lifter because the travel is less than with the chain lifter. It only became a problem past the range of the hand lifter. I should mention that historically whenever I buy something if there's a faulty unit in a batch I always seem to get it!! It's called Murphy's Law, and I sometimes wonder if my middle name should have been Murphy. If someone assembled mine wrong then there's every chance that they've done the same thing to other machines, I would think.

Thanks Brian, the first photo shows the correct assembly. In the middle the plate with the stud sticking out to the left and on the inside is the wire loop over the screw head. The loop on mine was on the left of the plate, over the stud, which is used to push up the lever to open the tension discs. How mine still worked to open the discs is a miracle, given how short that stud is! I haven't been able to find any information regarding how this part of the mechanism works (and possible problems), there just seems to be an automatic assumption that it will never cause a problem! RS, I figure they used an impact driver to do up the screws on mine!!!!!

I was thinking the same thing. The RB1 would be a "1st generation" model and while it would be nice at only $200 cheaper than new it's over-priced, imo. I'd go for new at that price - unless you can knock down the price on the RB1. To use a well known Aussie phrase, at $1300 "tell him he's dreaming"!

There's much ingenuity on this site.

The part in question is #3. It's obvious (now) that the top loop fits over the head of screw #13, but this screw actually protrudes through part #1 and the protruding part isn't threaded, so it looks like something fits over it. On my machine the loop on part #3 was over this stud, on the other side of #1, which looked right.

E5 indicates an error with the Hall sensor, how did you clear the error? Have you tried resetting to factory defaults?

As long as it's sewing ok then I reckon you got a good deal at that price.