dikman

Ah, that explains why their links don't work.

Well done, Uwe! You have done all the hard work to show anyone wanting to make an extension just how to do it, and shown how to do it at minimal cost.

This solution was offered by one company, unfortunately the video doesn't work nor can I reach the website? Basically like Pinto said, a bicycle brake lever and cable adapted to fit the control linkage on the servo motor.

I agree. As far as I can tell they are the same machine, the Techsew has extras which bumps up the price - laser guide (questionable value for most hobbyists), flat table attachment, swing down edge guide, needle positioner. It depends if you want/need these extras. If it were me buying it I would go with the Cowboy and save some money, particularly as it comes with a speed reducer, which I have learnt the value of and suit me much better than a needle positioner. Edge guides are cheap and easily fitted, and if you think you need a flat table attachment you can either make something up or buy the commercial unit later. My opinion only, and probably not worth much........

That was my first thought too.

This is what I made - I can see now that I'll be doing as Rodzhobyz said, using my foot to lift the feet and if I want it to stay up just spin the knob around while it's up. If you still want to extend it and don't have a lathe then as he said maybe a piece of steel tubing to slide over the stub on the machine, tapped for a couple of grub screws, a short piece of rod in the other end and the original handle fitted to that. As for looking good, that's the reason I painted it black, besides hiding the flaws black makes almost anything look good!

In a recent post I mentioned making an extension arm for the foot lifter lever on my 4500. JLSLeather mentioned that in his opinion it's not needed and to just use the foot pedal for lifting the feet. I didn't agree, but it got me thinking (always dangerous). The 4500 has a much higher lift than my other machines and also requires a lot more effort to use the hand lever compared to the foot lever, so maybe his idea makes sense after all. Only problem is the foot lever is on the right and I every time I shift my foot from pedal to pedal I have to look down. Hmm, I have a perfectly good left foot that is doing nothing, so this is the end result. Made from stuff I had lying around, so cost =$0. The main bar shaft is galv. pipe, the bearings (doesn't really need bearings but I had them) are from a home-made table that came with one of my machines, a shaft was turned down for each end to fit the pipe and bearings (different sizes, of course!), the foot pedal also from another old table but needed extending (twice!!) to get the movement needed. Trial and error to get the travel right, but now I can get full lift with minimal effort and if needed can still lock the feet up with the hand lever. In hindsight it may have been better to mount the contraption on the back of the upright legs and extend the two arms, but it works so it can stay where it is.

Better to start a new thread if you have specific questions related to the Singer. That servo R8R listed is very nice but at 1100 watts is way overkill for the Singer! A 550w will be more than adequate. Oh, and the hovercraft looks cool!

Looks pretty good to me.

Tony, you might be struggling to get that long a stitch length in a machine. I had an old Singer once that could do long stitches but it was intended to sew basting stitches.

I had a 211G166 for a while, until I decided to rationalise what I had (not enough room!), it was a good machine and would be my choice out of the three. Looks like that one is on a nicer table (with wheels).

I concur, Hildebrand, for most people lugging a 441 clone around is not going to be practical. You'll eventually break either the machine or your body!! A 3200 with a handle fitted to the flywheel might work, however (I don't know the weight difference). I have read a couple of comments from users of the Outlaw/Tippman machines and they said the main drawback was doing long stitching runs, as in belts. Pulling that handle down got tiring real fast.

That's another way of looking at it.

Gregg, perhaps that's the answer to why the generic one is different to the OP's original, being generic it's meant to be adjusted to suit different machines? Makes sense to me.

Try loosening the screws that hold it onto the handwheel and repositioning it slightly. It's wobbling because it's not centred correctly on the boss that's attached to the handwheel. Or the boss itself isn't fitted properly (fairly unlikely, but possible) Hard to tell from the short video.

!/4" of leather is pretty thin for a holster, and as kgg said 207 is considered a minimum for a holster and 277 would be better. I couldn't make holsters with a standard 3/8" upholstery-class machine so I doubt one of these machines would be suitable.

I see where your coming from. Unfortunately, we are often dealing with older machines where we have to make do with what parts we can get and adapting/modifying becomes part of the game. At least you know where the problem is (with the machine, I mean ).

Right hand, sorry, should have mentioned that before. I forget that not everyone is right-handed. For the left hand I need to drag the gun out, forward and across so angled forward slightly should be a bit more natural to clear the holster (according to my reasoning).

Very nice! Beautiful carving.

Thanks for the discussion, guys. I shoot with my strong hand so a rear-ward cant on the left holster would not be good if at a 9/3 position but a forward cant should be slightly beneficial. However, for any other position a forward cant is probably going to be a handicap. Based on what's been said I'm thinking 9/3 position with a 15-20% forward cant might be worth trying. If that doesn't work out then it's 10/2 with a rearward cant! One of them should work.......

Ok, that was a good video, but you're saying that the pin (#11) doesn't reach the operating lever on the tension assembly. Like I said, it's too short. I have had to replace similar pins on my machines and it's just trial and error to get the right length, too short and it won't work, too long and the discs stay open. Or, as Constabulary said, try bending the arm.

Then it has to be the adjustment Wiz is referring to. It is the only thing that can cause that problem.

So if part #13 is flat, rather than having the offset, all that means is that the rod, part #11, will be a bit short. Replace it with a slightly longer pin.

Sorta looks like a modern version of a Slim Jim. Very neat.

kgg beat me to it. Run some stitches by hand and watch the tension discs, make sure they are keeping the tension on the thread.