rickybobby

Thank you These are "Driving Holsters" not "Concealed Carry all over the place" or "Hiking in the desert Holsters" they are best used while in a seated position. FWIW With that said, the one in these photos (WORN vs. "laying in the weeds") the Holster does stay in position. I admit, probably not permanently but, if it hits the ground it is in a Holster. "Does it stay upright like that (that's rhetorical and deliberately silly - it DOES NOT stay in that position, except perhaps when brand new and empty" BTW it is not "new or empty". This is my personal that I have worn while working all day in the shop, also while in the grocery store, etc. (all day and part of the night) for weeks for the last 2 1/2 or 3 years. I posted this to share. It's ok you don't want to build anything like this. I do, and people like them. No gun has been harmed, no one has been "shot in the guts" Thanks for looking!

Wrong, that IS velcro. The North American Arms Revolvers weigh from 3oz to 7oz loaded. That is a lot less than the Bond Arms. The last Bond Arms Driving Holster I saw they had a 3/4" round circle of Hook & Loop material (Velcro) holding a much heavier gun. Mine have 1" X 1 3/4" of Hook & Loop (velcro) holding the strap. I also use a "block" of leather that locks the strap on the belt. You can unhook the velcro and with the belt block the Holster won't drop off the belt. (even a Bond Arms) On that little Holster I just didn't stitch the short run under the barrel. The stitch to the left is holding the strap on.

This is my version of a "Driving Holster" for a North American Arms Long Rifle model with a 1 1/8" Barrel There is not much room to work with as far as molding the leather but I do make sure there is adequate room for the sight. Using a Thumb Break helps keep it from dropping out the back and the little molding I can do around the cylinder and barrel holds it steady so its not "flopping around" in the Holster. The Leather is #1 W&C 8oz Brown, Back (belly removed), Leveled from 10/12oz, Backside is refinished and pasted by W&C After drying from wet molding the Holster is dipped in Resolene/Water mixture 50%/50% and the edges are dyed brown with Fiebings Oil Dye then Fiebings Neutral Edge Kote applied Final operation after making sure of the fit is a light rubdown with Fiebings Aussie Conditioner Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick

I do like my Seecamp. Once you become familiar with the little critter they are a nifty little gun. Mine is the .32acp several have told me that is the preferred caliber for that gun. Here is my version of the Pancake for the Seecamp it has a little more "style" to the lines ... Thank you! Thank you, no one wants their little gun popping out of their Holster! The ratio of leather to gun is very close! lol! Thank you

These short and stubby little guns are a challenge to build sometimes. There is little on the gun body to mold leather to for "friction only" retention so I normally suggest a Thumb Break. The Leather is Wickett & Craig 8oz Russet on the main body and W&C Mahogany on the front overlay. Thread is 207 top 138 bottom in Henna from Weaver Leather. The finish is 50/50 Resolene & Water, holster was dipped to coat completely. After drying we rubbed some Fiebings Aussie Conditioner on the surface. Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick

No trouble, thank you... I buy Leather from Wickett & Craig in PA. Leveling is done at no charge, I think refinishing the backside and pasting is .20 cents extra per foot.

Thank you, it does have a different look to it. Thank you! There is an old Al Stohlman book that shows tooling rough out side of leather, I don't recall the name but I'm sure it's still in print. The Leather is from Wickett & Craig #1 Back, Russet Color. I buy 12/13oz and have it leveled to 8oz then have the back finished and pasted. The retention is very positive due to molding I would not trust it for riding Horseback or ATV's but for working in the shop and training at the Range it's fine. The back is a simple stitched belt loop. (see photos) Thank you! I've found Rough Out looks better if the hide has been split, finished & pasted. There is no hope of real hairy/fuzzy uneven rough out ever looking good!

PM Sent

This is a style of Holster I like for using at the Gun Range. I made one Rough Out and one Smooth Out. Many Makers don't know or or don't choose to do any tooling on Rough Out, I like the look of it. I gave a friend that has a 1911 a choice of which one he wanted and he picked the smooth leather (I was happy about that, I like the Rough Out) Questions, Comments, Constructive Criticism are always welcome! Thanks for looking! Rick

@MrLentz The Springfield Operator (with a rail) will work fine for molding a Holster for the Ruger SR1911 (with a rail)

I have dummy guns from every maker including aluminum ones from Duncans and Boise Foundry The most consistent in size and durability are Rings Blue Guns. Of the 300 or so I have 90% are Blue Guns. Lately I've been expanding my Revolver selection all have been Blueguns Hope this helps

You have done a great job on that! Each one will get a little better and a little easier. Know when to challenge yourself and also know when to keep doing a task until perfected then move on.

I've done rigs with built in suspenders! For those that no longer have a waist or hips! lol!! They're shaped like an upside down pear. Nothing for a belt to tighten up on, but everything else is pushing it down!

You did great saving the tooling! You can "mold" the back some to help get some retention spots.

Nice work! Great job on the whole thing. The "Basket Arrow" pattern is a favorite of mine as well.

Nice Rig! Very clean work.

John Lamberton at Desert Gun Leather in Phoenix AZ designed this for a customer. The customer runs a scope and the barrel was 12" or 14" (I don't remember exactly) It would be awkward if mounted static like a "drop loop" Holster because of length, if it didn't have a leg tie it would flop around. If you used a leg tie it would interfere with walking comfortably. So John came up with this. The belt loop and "drop" are static on the belt to carry the weight and the "Holster" has a articulating joint to allow the Holster to move with the leg. The "hinge" is a is a nut & bolt (lock washer) and good size leather washers to allow movement (sorry, no photo of that.) The "front" of the Holster was wet molded to fit over the gun first, and allowed to dry. Then sewn to the back piece. Depending on how long your barrel is this might be a consideration of your build.

I line with the same 8oz veg tan used on the front so, "smooth sides out". I've not had any issues. Single layer will eventually soften or stretch. The double layer, glue & stitching is stronger and more durable. JMHO Rick

Thanks for info Chief. I have been asked about the Kahr's quite a few times over the years but no "one gun" is asked for enough to buy the dummy for. I bought a group of dummy guns a year or so ago, a Kahr PM9 was in that bunch. It looks like the size/width looks the nearly the same, the main difference is barrel length. I can "Fake" that! lol!! (I forgot I had the PM9, thats how often I've used it!)

Thanks for the info Dwight. I'm leaning towards this solution! I may try one, I have a band saw, files, sandpaper. Rick

Thanks, I took a look at size specs & photos on their website, they are close but not close enough. I'm afraid it just wouldn't work but thanks for the offer. That is a good deal on the dummy gun! Thanks for the info!

Hi, I have a customer that wants me to build a Holster for a Kahr K-9 I don't have one nor any of my friends so that is out. I have never been asked about this gun before so buying a new dummy for it ($60.00 +) I would rather not do. (I have to many already hanging on the wall not pulling their weight!) lol!! He is not local so using his gun is not an option, he is a great customer so telling him "No" is a last resort. If anyone has a dummy I can Use, Rent, Borrow, Buy..... I'll pay all shipping back and forth. I'll only need it for 2 or 3 days rick@DesertGunLeather.com

To get you sewing holes punched look for "Pricking Irons" They are used in english saddle work. You use them to make the holes and may only need to widen a little with an awl on occasion. My belts are two pieces of 7/8oz. Glued & Stitched (Cobra 4) I have hand stitched belts but that was many years ago and don't anticipate going back to it. To straighten the edge on a hide for belt strips I have a 8' X 1.5" X 1/4" piece of aluminum stock. The edges were all sanded "round-ish" so it doesn't scuff the leather and a piece of Gorilla Duct Tape on the back. I lay it on the hide, put a weight on each end and the middle. Mark the straight edge with a pen. (yep, I use a blue marking pen) Then remove the straight edge and make your cut. No guide, no fence, no training wheels! Use the Force. O.K. that is a bit much. Trust yourself and your sharp knife. A couple tricks about a straight line... Don't try to make a quick correction while cutting, just keep cutting. When done with the knife, Take your draw gauge (strap cutter) and set it for 1/8" that will "clean up" your edge. Set your strap cutter to the strap size you need and go! This is by far the quickest and cleanest way I have found to get straps cut from a new hide or double shoulder. Hope this helps Rick

Like JLSleather said, http://www.usacuttingdie.com Texas Custom Dies Quality Product and quick turn around. The Belt Slot Punch I had made for my holsters works with my 1 1/2" double thick gun belts. I had it done 1 3/4" X 5/16". I use a "dummy belt" when I press and wet mold my holsters so the belt slot molds right to the correct shape & size of the belt. I had it done as a Maul Punch. I think the next one will be a clicker punch... I use a 5 lb. Rawhide maul on a Farrier Anvil. To keep the punch from dinging the anvil I glued a piece of vinyl flooring to the flat surface then a 3/8" piece of hard rubber (like cutting mat) on top of that. It helps save you the time of resharpening your punches when your friends come over and "just need to punch one hole" in something and are not use to the 5 lb maul!

I copied the list and deleted the dummies that sold (and verified by buyer on this thread they arrived). I'm only trying to help the thread, contact @Davis for accurate list. Here is the list with verified SOLD items removed as per thread. • ruger Blackhawk 357 6.5" • ruger blackhawk 44 7.5" • fm-hi power 9 • fnx 9 • colt python • steyr m9 • bersa thunder 380 • cz 75b • cz sp01 9 picotiny rail • cz 75 p-07 9 picotiny rail • pw arms p-64 9 • rhino 2" • walter pps 40 • walter pk 380 • walter ppq • walter ppk/s 9 • mp 45 • sw 629 6" • sig p239 • sig p250 • sig p229 • sig p220 • sig p230 • sig p238 • sig 938 • sig p250 4.5" • sig sp 2340 • sig p226 • 1911 colt 5" • 1911 springfield a1 45 5" • 1911 commander 4.25" • glock 36 45 • glock 30 • glock 30 45 • glock 34 9 • glock 17 9 • kahr pm9 • kahr cw9 • Taurus millennium pt 140 pro 40 • Taurus pt 145 pro • Taurus judge laser 2" • Taurus pt 40 • Taurus judge 2" • kahr cw 45 • Taurus judge 3" • smith Wesson gov 2.75" • ruger p95 dao • lc9 • lc9 crimsm trace laser • lcp • lcp laser • ruger sp 101 2.75" • ruger speed six 2.5" • colt single action 6.75" • ruger red hawk 7.5" • sr 9c • lcp • sr40 • ruger gp 100 4" • ruger lcr • xd 40 tatical • sr 45 • ruger p90 • ruger p89 • xd m-9 • xd m-40 • xdm • xds • xd-40 sub compact • ruger vaquero 5.5" • xd-45 acp • xd-40 • hk-usp 45 • hk-45 • hk-usp 9/40 • hk p30 9 • hk usp compact 9 • beretta nano • mp shield 9 • mp 9 • beretta tomcat • mp 40c • smith Wesson 6906