SLP

The Seiwa irons are made in Japan, not China.

I have some of these. https://www.goodsjapan.com/seiwa-diamond-leather-stitching-chisel-leathercraft-pricking-iron-tool-6x4mm/a-19162 Not too expensive, but won't bend. A little polishing is nice, but not required. I use them all the time. I have the 4mm x 6 and the 4mm x 2, as well as the 3mm x 6 and 3mm x 2. I like the 4mm for holsters. See this video. https://youtu.be/Y0EL7K2NhYs He talks about them at about 52:00 min in.

Springfields have an ambidextrous safety. If the holster is a lefty, the safety on the springfield will scrape on the holster, if molded from a Colt dummy. In other words, the colt will be smooth on the right hand side of the gun, while the Springfield will have another safety.

Yes. That's correct. 3(denatured alcohol): 1(dye)...or 4:1. Experiment on some scrap of the leather you're using. Every leather will take the dye a little differently. More than one or two coats will likely be needed. Apply in different directions. I gave up on the chocolate initially. It sat in my cabinet for a very long time until I tried diluting in this way. When you get it, post a picture here for us to admire, then share the ratio that worked for you.

Very nice. I've had success mixing the chocolate about 3:1 (denatured alcohol:dye). A few coats and it still stays brown. Dark brown, but brown, not black. You could even go more dilute.

Call JRM Stiffeners and ask to buy 100. The owner and his wife are very nice. It's about $15 for 100. They will accommodate you. http://www.jrmclips.com/thumb-break-stiffeners.html Quote

Thanks for the positive feedback everyone!

Thanks, everyone! No; not my first leather project. I have been making holsters and other miscellaneous leather goods for a few years now. I used 0.8mm Ritza Tiger thread to stitch. The stiching was a bear, pun intended. I marked the stitch holes with a saiwa 4mm stitching chisel, then nearly broke my wrist trying to punch through with an awl, so I chucked up a harness needle in my drill press to punch the rest of the holes. Much better, and easier on the wrist.

This was my very first knife sheath. I bartered a custom holster for a custom knife a few years back. It has just been sitting in my desk in a cardboard sheath (cringe). I know. So...it was well overdue. I started out with simple expectations to "just make something leather to hold it," but that very quickly went out the door. It was much more involved than I had expected. It took considerable thought and planning. I had to layer up the leather to make a shelf on which the handle could sit, otherwise it would push the loop back when inserted. I had to consider so many other aspects. For example, I made the retention strap replaceable with a Chicago screw, so that, in the event that I cut the strap, or it became worn over time, it could be replaced. I had to carve out a dimple in an inside layer where the Chicago screw head could rest, allowing the layers to lie flush. On and on. I suppose these, along with the other things I had to figure out for myself are old hat for some of you, but it was probably faster than spending hours researching like I did before I made my first holster. Anyway, as always, I am all ears for constructive criticism. Oh yeah, the bear was from a practice scrap I did for a holster request that fell through. He sat on my workbench for months before I found a use for the poor fella. Never tooled any animals before. That was a whole other experience. Let me know what you think, and/or where I could improve on the next one. Thanks, ladies and gentlemen.

Was the saddle tan the Pro Dye? I usually cut the Pro Dye with denatured alcohol 7:1 alcohol:dye. I know it sounds like a very dilute mixture, but it works to keep the tan color very true to saddle tan. It does require several coats, but does not get too dark. I've heard some say to cut the Pro Dye a minimum of 1:1 as a matter if course. Nice work, by the way.

My heart just broke a little bit.

Great first holster! I would only suggest you pull those stitch lines in a bit. The revolvers, being less square, are much more difficult to estimate the location of the stitch lines than the automatics. You probably have an idea of where you can move them, now that you've made the first one. In the future, with a new model, or with this one, you can use a strip of leather equivalent to the weight you intend to use for the holster to wrap around the gun and get a total circumference. If you are going to wet form, you can case the leather strip prior to measuring. I look forward to seeing your next one.

Call JRM Stiffeners and ask to buy 100. The owner and his wife are very nice. It's about $15 for 100. They will accommodate you.

I'm looking as well. Just wanted to see if you found one...and boost the post.

I've said it before and I stand by it. I like the Roarockit Thin Air Press...and it's cheap. If you don't like it you are only out $80. Or resell to get most of your money back.

Absolutely beautiful! I am officially inspired! Thank you for posting.

I have not done this with a flat back holster. I guess that my point was, with a vacuum press, you can get even pressure over the tooling area and therefore some molding without destroying the tooling, provided that the tooling is deep enough. Thanks for your praise. It means a lot coming from such a skilled craftsman and artist such as yourself. I, however, was less than pleased and fairly critical of that holster. Let's just say that I learned...and relearned, some lessons with that one. I did feel that the tooling withstood the vacuum press fairly well, though.

I tend to err on the side of a bit tight. Leather will stretch, but it will not, generally speaking, shrink. Also. There can be variance even within a particular model. I made a holster for my dad's Springfield Loaded 1911 using my own Springfield Loaded. Mine was parkerized and his was stainless. It fit my gun like a glove, but was tight on his. After a day or two in the holster with a freezer bag around it, his gun fit great. In short, I would make them a bit snug and inform the customer on ways to stretch, if required. Plasic bag, business card, etc. There are many ways to accomplish this. Also, you have come to the right place. The folks on thus forum are a wealth of knowledge, and very generous with it. Good luck, and please post some pics in this section as well.

I have one, use it on double layer 6/7 oz lined with 4/5 oz holsters, among other projects, and like it very much. I do try to protect it from sharp edges. If you look in the picture you will note that there is a rag around the grip of the 45.

I have tried this with a 50/50 holster. Little to no boning. Very tight stitch lines. Cheap vacuum press, but works very well. I recommend deep tooling. Check out this guy. http://www.roarockit.com/skateboard-building/thin-air-press/tap-kits/thin-air-press-kit-26x28/#.WMXL0ctlDqA

Beautiful! I do love that color.

That's one of the best videos I've ever seen of the process. I love it! Thank you.

Just recently moved, and I've been doing mostly custom orders. I haven't made much time for my own projects.

I still look back at this holster every now and then. I still love it. I will definitely be stealing this design.

Thank you.