fredk

A few stitches would help

Then, can you use two rivets in each place?

They should hold. But what I've larnt is not to have the ends of the loop on the outside but cut a slot top & bottom and fit the loop through from the inside to the outside, then rivet. Any strain on the loop riveted on the outside puts all the strain on the rivet and it may pull out. Had it happen to me a lot until I changed the way I attach the loops Al Stohlman covers this in one of his books

One style of sewing that I've not spotted anyone doing is the grain or flesh to edge In 2006 I was watching an episode of 'Time Team'. In a dig in Ely they uncovered an unusual knife sheath. Certain aspects of it confused the archaeologists, but we will skip over that. I decided to make a recreation of the knife scabbard. It would be smaller and decorated differently. This is what I made One of the things that confused the archaeologists was how it was put together with no sewing showing on the front. And I didn't want sewing on the front to ruin the stamped pattern. I knew the answer - grain to edge sewing A curved awl is used to pierce a hole from a place on the back to come out in the edge of the top piece. The sewing line and spacing is marked on the rear, which may be the grain or flesh side. Then at each sewing stop the curved awl is used to pierce a hole, with great care, then its saddle-stitched with two short curved needles I've tried to mark the stitching to show it This is the stitching on the rear; and along the edge, you can make out the back piece stitching in the lower part of the photo You don't need overly thick leather to do this. This scabbard is only 8mm thick (just over 1/4") I've only done this type of stitching a couple of times

With the ex-factory, which was in Carrickfergus, 12 miles from Belfast, 'belts' were in various stages of completion. So by studying them I came to see how they were made

What I found with the 100 ex-factory belts was that it is all done by automatic machinery, in one continuous length. Cut to size length and holes punched I had one 'belt' that was about 10ft long. It was seemingly the tail end of a roll

Here we are; 1 year completed (more or less) September 30 2024 Set #1, the car set - Pieces treated and kept on the top of the dash in the south facing windscreen (windshield) of a car 1. Baby Oil; Both sides are very dark, More flexible than Control 1 (C1), No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking Oil (rape seed); Both sides very dark, Slightly more flexible than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard (pork fats); Light but darker than C2, Slightly more flexible than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 4. NFO Compound; Both sides very dark, Flex is better than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 5. Olive Oil ( Pure Extra Virgin); Both sides very dark, Flex is only slightly better than C1, Slight odd indistinct smell, No sign of rot or fungus 6. 3 in 1 oil (benzine); Both sides very dark, but back less so, Flex is stiffer than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Very slightly darkened both sides, Flex is slightly stiffer than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus Set #2 were hung outside on a wood frame. They got light and heavy rain with periods of sunshine, warm overcast and wind, both light breezes and strong winds The same oils were used in the same sequence . Control C1A was hung with the other pieces 1. Baby oil; Both sides are very dark, Flex is better than C1A, Slight smell of leather No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking oil; Both sides very dark, Flex is very slightly better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard; Both sides slightly darker, Flex is about the same as C1A, No smell, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 4. NFO Compound; Missing, blown away 5. Olive oil; Both sides and fairly dark, Flex is better than C1A, No smell, Grain surface feels oiled, No sign of rot or fungus 6. 3 in 1 oil; Both sides are now a very dark brown, Flex is better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Both sides very slightly darkened, Flex is only very slightly better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus None of the pieces seem to require re-oiling All but 1 test piece have a neutral smell, or none. That 1 piece, #5 of Set 1, the slight odd smell is so very faint and its not a bad smell therefore I'm not worried about it. #4 of Set 2 went AWOL just the day before I brought the pieces in to record them In conclusion; No rot or fungus. Just the loss of smell - either of leather or of the oil used. The darkening of the leather by some oils and greater flexibility by most I think thats it for now

yes it is. certain fluids used with leather and the tannens will leech out etching into the marble leaving an uneven working surface

Hardly a 'best kept secret' but an under-used tool. Most of us have several in our tool drawers but rarely use them

PVA glue going 'milky' means its trying to return to its glue state. If you use water-proof, or outside use, or weather-proof glue it won't be going 'milky' A mix for applying to leather edges lasts for as long as the glue stays liquid. Several hours, days if you keep it in an air-tight container If starts to get too thick just add a small bit of water. In fact slightly thick glue works best on edges. Treat it as you would your bottle of PVA glue

I just wet my leather before dyeing. Using a sponge to wet it thoroughly but not absolutely soaking

Years ago I got a clearance lot of maybe 100 belts from a factory closure (no buckles). At the time I was making toy shields so I cut then up to make hand & arm straps on the shields

How long did it last him? My #1 got, at best, an average of 6 months from similar but not so good belts

I had thoughts of you sewing lots of wee discs together to make a pouch, Then I wised up and realised, sew them up inside a pouch

You can pick up some really nice silk

I do it occasionally. I'd say use water-resistant or all-weather PVA glue. Then it won't become glue again at the slightest hint of water. The glue I get is thin enuf it doesn't need any more thinning but I put a small amount of acrylic floor finish (aka Pledge with Future shine or Mop and Glo or whatever its called now) in which helps the water proofing. It will work on chrome tan. ppl aren't putting it on right. You need to clamp up the chrome tan real tight and very close the join, like 1 mm from it. After applying the PVA you need to keep it clamped up until its fully dry. Its not a fast finish but its good for smoothing that awkward c/t edge In all cases I apply it with a #1 multi-purpose digit. I slick it with some beeswax when its dry

I have some polymer clay that after its cooked is like hard rubber. Its near impossible to break anything made with it. I think Sculpey or FIMO make a similar clay + 1 for Christmas ornaments - 1 for hanging from vehicle rear view mirrors, I am totally against anything hanging from the mirrors

Most excellent I used to make some creations in polymer clay. Your wood effect is very good. I especially like it on the round knife handle. Did you use flexible polymer clay for the round knife blade?

@ButtonLady Maybe you could try ironing some. to see if that works out

I wouldn't apply heat from an iron**. I'd lightly dampen the back side, stretch out as best I could and put weights on top and let it dry. That may reduce the wrinkles. In most cases just working with the u/l, making something with it, will reduce the wrinkles ** I've had u/l shrink badly trying that

I've recently bought some paint marker pens for my modelling. I've bought some with a 1mm tip in white, silver, as well as other colours. The white ones are selling for under £3 for 3 on ebay from China. To buy one locally expect at least £4.50 each . The silver ones are under £2 each, ebay, local edited to add; these are not alcohol ink pens like sharpies, they are paint pens, either acrylics or oils. I use them for colouring in the markings on my game boards. The larger tipped ones are aimed at car detailers for colouring the lettering on tyres

Usually, on the back side I don't need the markings to be removable. Or I cut them off. I use an ordinary black biro or on really dark chrome tan leather I use a Tippex type pen

Welcome to the forum You can get well lost in all the sections Very nice work you have there

Resurrecting this old thread I made some changes to my strap cutter, sort of in-life upgrades to suit me 1. the inch scale was awkward to see and use so I added a steel ruler on the top of the bar 2. I disliked the big wing headed bolt so I replaced it with a plastic knob. Being metric I also had to change the t-nut inside. 3. I replaced the bolts and nuts that held the cutting blade. The screw-blade slot was getting worn. I fitted flanged hex drive bolts and brass nuts 4. I used a fine saw to widen the blade gap slightly so I could use skiver blades. They are easier and cheaper to get and this; I spotted this plastic strap cutter on ebay. Price is about 1/2 or 1/3 of a wood one